Arizer Solo

[ou812?]

Did your experiments include a WT or bubbler? I too find step 7 'barefoot' too intense for enjoyment. But with some water in the game I can go for the heavy stuff when the mood/need strikes.

Otherwise, I typically run on four without giving it much thought. Two leisurely sessions and I'm ready for a fresh load usually. "Spiking" it with some bubble or other concentrate alters that of course.

OF

I 2nd the water adjunct!! Over the last year (my anniversary w/solo is 6/4/13) I have tried so many temps and settled on using my Solo wet.I use a PNWT when out and about and at home a gang of import bubbs and my temps start at 4 and go to 7. I find that h2o tames the dryness of the vapor and being an old combuster,I dig big milky hits, I get well medicated and really enjoy the whole experience.The taste is just the best,others complain of burnt popcorn @ the upper heat levels, but after a few sessions with non vaporists (Im trying to convert a lot of old 'Nam vets, stubborn as mules) one cant complain about burnt popcorn when tasting the bottom end of a bowl that is being combusted. Combustion just tastes like ass once you get into the groove with a vape.

I'm trying to figure out whats best for my new one.Its the version of charge and use all at once.Sounds confusing.I spend more time at home with the PA plugged into mine(older version) and when I do venture out,its always functional and has been bullet proof. I dont know what to do with the new back up,

1. storage? is there a certain protocol for storing them,run the batt. down? charge it up?
2. whats the procedure for the new one, I'm reading that you can screw it up if you treat it like the older versions as far as charging and using it at the same time .I'm a bit confused and dont know if there is a certain NEWER approach to it. An info any one can shed on the newer version and its correct handling is appreciated .I went back 30 pages or so and got me even more confused, I have a bit of a problem trying to figure somethings out and this is one of them, little slow at times,........

 

[poonman]

I 2nd the water adjunct!! Over the last year (my anniversary w/solo is 6/4/13) I have tried so many temps and settled on using my Solo wet.I use a PNWT when out and about and at home a gang of import bubbs and my temps start at 4 and go to 7. I find that h2o tames the dryness of the vapor and being an old combuster,I dig big milky hits, I get well medicated and really enjoy the whole experience.The taste is just the best,others complain of burnt popcorn @ the upper heat levels, but after a few sessions with non vaporists (Im trying to convert a lot of old 'Nam vets, stubborn as mules) one cant complain about burnt popcorn when tasting the bottom end of a bowl that is being combusted. Combustion just tastes like ass once you get into the groove with a vape.

I'm trying to figure out whats best for my new one.Its the version of charge and use all at once.Sounds confusing.I spend more time at home with the PA plugged into mine(older version) and when I do venture out,its always functional and has been bullet proof. I dont know what to do with the new back up,

1. storage? is there a certain protocol for storing them,run the batt. down? charge it up?
2. whats the procedure for the new one, I'm reading that you can screw it up if you treat it like the older versions as far as charging and using it at the same time .I'm a bit confused and dont know if there is a certain NEWER approach to it. An info any one can shed on the newer version and its correct handling is appreciated .I went back 30 pages or so and got me even more confused, I have a bit of a problem trying to figure somethings out and this is one of them, little slow at times,........

There were some speculations about the earlier batches released of the
New Versions , ( M1A's to M1E's ) were acting up because of the Use and Charge function . But there has been No reports of the later batches
acting up , the M1T's and M1Y's . Maybe some members who owns those batches ,could chime in and add to the info .

Now I have a new M1A , and have avoided the use while charge option .
But once I get a replacement battery for my M107 , so I will still have a back up . I will test it out , If it screws up , I'll try to RMA a later batch
from Arizer .

I have used the PA with the new Solo .
The green charge light does Not click on until after 1 hour . ( aprox )
But it is still using some battery during that time .
I find the PA useful to start the day , if you want to utilize the most portable battery life for the entire day when you are not near a socket .

 

[OF]

about to do the battery swap, but i'm curious if anyone has disasembled the stock battery pack? i was wondering particularly if it had clips removable from the batteries so i could potentially swap in some new 18650s and re-seal them, obviously only if i make sure to put the batteries in the right direction

if not just curious if anyone has recommendations for brackets/clips to use to make a battery pack that'll fit.

Yes, and I posted extensively about in in this tread. Several posts, including photos, on the topic. The pack is spot welded together. At the least you need batteries with the tabs already welded on, don't even think about soldering to the batteries unless you're trying to make a bomb.

The pack is shorter than most, like this one from the same maker:
http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Li-Io...09&sr=8-3&keywords=tenergy+18650+battery+pack

The problem is most such packs are made with the PCB on the end making them too long for Solo. The Solo pack uses one on the side. It also includes a thermal protector, not normally used, that should be there. Watch out, the polarity on the connector is backwards from standard.

It can be done, but IMO it's a job for those with experience doing things like it. Too many pitfalls. Mistakes can be too dear.

The above pack will work if you cut the jacket off it. You can also order 18650s with tabs (pretty rare but All Battery has them, the same ones used to make the packs in fact). I'm using two such packs using the original PCBs and thermal switches, but advise you pass.

1. storage? is there a certain protocol for storing them,run the batt. down? charge it up?

Never store fully discharged or fully charged. Nor allow them to remain in that state any longer than necessary. Store at about the 60% point (which is why new ones always come to you in this state). Stored correctly they can go 10 years or more, not so charged, discharged or stored where hot. They will suffer waiting for your return. Be kind to your batteries and they will support you.

This too has been discussed in this thread a number of times.

OF

 

[ou812?]

Yes, and I posted extensively about in in this tread. Several posts, including photos, on the topic. The pack is spot welded together. At the least you need batteries with the tabs already welded on, don't even think about soldering to the batteries unless you're trying to make a bomb.

The pack is shorter than most, like this one from the same maker:
http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Li-Ion-2200mAh-Rechargeable-Battery/dp/B002Y2LJW0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1403962209&sr=8-3&keywords=tenergy 18650 battery pack

The problem is most such packs are made with the PCB on the end making them too long for Solo. The Solo pack uses one on the side. It also includes a thermal protector, not normally used, that should be there. Watch out, the polarity on the connector is backwards from standard.

It can be done, but IMO it's a job for those with experience doing things like it. Too many pitfalls. Mistakes can be too dear.

The above pack will work if you cut the jacket off it. You can also order 18650s with tabs (pretty rare but All Battery has them, the same ones used to make the packs in fact). I'm using two such packs using the original PCBs and thermal switches, but advise you pass.



Never store fully discharged or fully charged. Nor allow them to remain in that state any longer than necessary. Store at about the 60% point (which is why new ones always come to you in this state). Stored correctly they can go 10 years or more, not so charged, discharged or stored where hot. They will suffer waiting for your return. Be kind to your batteries and they will support you.

This too has been discussed in this thread a number of times.

OF

Thanks OF, you are the complete resource for the Solo,much appreciation to you and others,thank you

 

[OF]

Thanks OF, you are the complete resource for the Solo,much appreciation to you and others,thank you

You're welcome, glad to help when I can.

No need for all of us to make the same mistakes you know.......

Regards,

OF

 

[ou812?]

[

There were some speculations about the earlier batches released of the
New Versions , ( M1A's to M1E's ) were acting up because of the Use and Charge function . But there has been No reports of the later batches
acting up , the M1T's and M1Y's . Maybe some members who owns those batches ,could chime in and add to the info .

Now I have a new M1A , and have avoided the use while charge option .
But once I get a replacement battery for my M107 , so I will still have a back up . I will test it out , If it screws up , I'll try to RMA a later batch
from Arizer .

I have used the PA with the new Solo .
The green charge light does Not click on until after 1 hour . ( aprox )
But it is still using some battery during that time .
I find the PA useful to start the day , if you want to utilize the most portable battery life for the entire day when you are not near a socket .

Wow missed your post must of been posting something while you were.Thank you OF and you Poonman.

Poonman you say you do use the PA on the new solo (2014) ? You apparently havent seen any damage or function hampered by it,so I guess its safe to use it like my older version I have. To me the use and charge from what Im reading isnt great for this vape.From what I gather this newer version will eat up batts quicker with the use/charge built in now. BTW when the green light comes on as charge,is it charging it? are you running on pure batt.when the PA is plugged into new unit or is it as the old,mainly ac and small amount of batt?


This is where i was getting confused.Older version,I would charge it up,maybe go out and use it for a few sessions out on my motopsycho, come home and throw on the PA and blaze away with a bubb,and never had an issue to date.I might add,I exploit the shit out of mine,heavy user and still by following the proper battery usage that I learned from you 2 ,(OF and you)it is as good as new on holding a charge and performing well on batt power for a boatload of sessions. Just want to make sure my new baby performs as well as its older brother.
OK any info is always welcomed and appreciated.Man,I thought the cheap high quality bubler thread moved fast, this one makes it look as slow as a snail. Thanks for the info guys and the links to some of the meaty parts of battery usage and new unit............

 

[poonman]

[



Wow missed your post must of been posting something while you were.Thank you OF and you Poonman.

Poonman you say you do use the PA on the new solo (2014) ? You apparently havent seen any damage or function hampered by it,so I guess its safe to use it like my older version I have. To me the use and charge from what Im reading isnt great for this vape.From what I gather this newer version will eat up batts quicker with the use/charge built in now. BTW when the green light comes on as charge,is it charging it? are you running on pure batt.when the PA is plugged into new unit or is it as the old,mainly ac and small amount of batt?


This is where i was getting confused.Older version,I would charge it up,maybe go out and use it for a few sessions out on my motopsycho, come home and throw on the PA and blaze away with a bubb,and never had an issue to date.I might add,I exploit the shit out of mine,heavy user and still by following the proper battery usage that I learned from you 2 ,(OF and you)it is as good as new on holding a charge and performing well on batt power for a boatload of sessions. Just want to make sure my new baby performs as well as its older brother.
OK any info is always welcomed and appreciated.Man,I thought the cheap high quality bubler thread moved fast, this one makes it look as slow as a snail. Thanks for the info guys and the links to some of the meaty parts of battery usage and new unit............

I always unplug the PA when the green charge light kicks in . I guess that's
what I meant , when I said , to avoid using that option .
But yes , a little battery power is Also being used . Because I'd conducted my test theory on a Fully charge Solo . After one hour on the PA , when I plugged it into the reg. charger . It needed topping up with some re-charging . ( aprox. 15 minutes ) I haven't try to see if the PA will charge it til the green light stops flashing , maybe this weekend I'll try .

Once I get a replacement battery for my back up . I will def . try that
option . I will take it down to level 1 battery , use it while charging for a few hours water vaping on 7 . And see how much it re-charges .

 

[CHIDOY]

Guys I am devastated

At least I have a backup solo

My m107 died today. It refuses to heat up. The red light does not blink and it stays cold. Sometimes if you try and set the temp all 7 lights will light up.

No amount of different chargers or reset is fixing it. It thinks the battery is all the way full. I am hoping the battery is not dead, but I also hope it is so if it's broken it's fixable.

Right now it it sitting around and it thinks it is set to heat level 7. All lights are on but that charge and heat

EXACT same issue with my m107! It wont heat up! No red light (heating) but all 7 lights are lit! Thanks goodness im not by he only one!

I don't have a car charger though.

Please let us know what happens!

I tried a battery swap from my "open box" PIU solo but had no luck. Same result... It won't heat up. Just lit up temp lights.

Does that mean the open box solo battery is weak? ( like OF's open box?)
Does that mean my m107 is just dead?
Worried if I get a Centizen batt back that it won't help. But I guess I'd have a backup battery for my new Solo.

 

[VapeMan980]

Just got another Solo (2014 version) I noticed the airflow has improved a lot when compared to my last Solo which was the 2013 version I got off eBay,

Anyone else notice this?

 

[CarolKing]

On the previous page FC member Olivianewtonjohn posted a video on how to disassemble the battery.

Check it out. I tried downloading the video but couldn't do it.

 

[OF]

Just got another Solo (2014 version) I noticed the airflow has improved a lot when compared to my last Solo which was the 2013 version I got off eBay,

Anyone else notice this?

Actually, EVERYONE else has I think? It's been discussed to death if you check back.......

You can also use it while it's charging now, that too has been noticed.

OF

 

[VapeMan980]

Actually, EVERYONE else has I think? It's been discussed to death if you check back.......

You can also use it while it's charging now, that too has been noticed.

OF

Funny post but you totally missed the point I was trying to make.

The 2013 version I had which I bought on eBay could be used when it was charging and supposed to have better airflow but this 2014 Solo I have seems to have amazing airflow when compared to my old one.

I was going to advise people to not get an eBay Solo and instead get from the site I got it from. I was only trying to help but forget it.

 

[CarolKing]

Hopefully your eBay Solo can be exchanged if problems arise. I try to think what if......when I'm buying something.

Glad that your enjoying the benefits of the Solo. The best portable out there IMO. It 's even better than some plug in vaporizers on the market.

My older model Solo I've had for 1 year, no problems. The battery only lasts for 3 sessions. That's OK I mostly use it plugged into the PA. This Solo I kept the battery topped off by keeping it plugged in when not in use. OF was suggesting that is bad on the battery, I think OF is right about that.

Everyone have a stellar weekend. Good times.

 

[FUnhouse]

I just got a new solo this week and so far I am disappointed in the battery life .
I feel like I should not have to charge more than once a night . I am not a very heavy vaper (4-5 small sessions a night) and I am using the solo solo
I am hoping as I get more use to it I can use the battery more efficiently.
It will be a drag if I have to plug it in mid session . If I wanted to be tied to a cord I would have bought a desktop.

That said I love everything else about it so far and can't wait for my gong to get here so I can put it through some water.

 

[exit]

Yes, and I posted extensively about in in this tread. Several posts, including photos, on the topic. The pack is spot welded together. At the least you need batteries with the tabs already welded on, don't even think about soldering to the batteries unless you're trying to make a bomb.

ah great thank you.
i called up my local batteries plus, they do spot welding onto batteries, so maybe i'll take a pair of some 3200mAh Pannies down there and get some tabs put on?

just making sure i don't misunderstand you. of course i woul never solder directly to the battery but as long as getting tabs spot welded on the batteries of my choice wouldn't be a problem. then i will do it

 

[pakalolo]

I just got a new solo this week and so far I am disappointed in the battery life .
I feel like I should not have to charge more than once a night . I am not a very heavy vaper (4-5 small sessions a night) and I am using the solo solo
I am hoping as I get more use to it I can use the battery more efficiently.
It will be a drag if I have to plug it in mid session . If I wanted to be tied to a cord I would have bought a desktop.

That said I love everything else about it so far and can't wait for my gong to get here so I can put it through some water.

Is it not feasible to plug it into the charger between sessions at least some of the time?

It seems to me that you should be able to get an evening in without having to charge, but what do I know. I always charge mine before I reach the point where I have to recharge.

 

[Quetzalcoatl]

I just got a new solo this week and so far I am disappointed in the battery life .
I feel like I should not have to charge more than once a night . I am not a very heavy vaper (4-5 small sessions a night) and I am using the solo solo
I am hoping as I get more use to it I can use the battery more efficiently.
It will be a drag if I have to plug it in mid session . If I wanted to be tied to a cord I would have bought a desktop.

That said I love everything else about it so far and can't wait for my gong to get here so I can put it through some water.

4-5 sessions is already over half of the battery life, and heating up from a cold start is going to use more battery life than keeping the oven temperature going. I was using mine heavily everyday for a little while, getting 6 sessions between charges (to keep the battery at its best) and charged daily. I didn't mind it because I know the limitations of the Solo. Ever since I made my power adapter, though, I've used it like that 90% of the time at my desk. Now it's only really portable when I step out of the house to do something outside or head out somewhere.

How many other portables deliver the quality of vapor that the Solo does and give you 7-8 full sessions per charge? And for ~$130-160 no less. I think there are few portables that get close to the efficiency/taste/effects ratio that the Solo does, and the ones that do (or beat it) are priced a little higher. I guess what I'm trying to say is that it's a matter of perspective.

If you find that the battery life really isn't cutting it for you, I suggest you look into one of the higher-capacity batteries that @CentiZen offers. It's a 3400mAh battery pack which is higher than the stock 2400mAh battery pack, which translates to roughly 50% more sessions. If you can use a screwdriver I'm sure you can replace the battery pack. He provides a video with instructions so you can watch it a few times before you do anything.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/vapepower-high-performance-vaporizer-batteries.9571/

 

[FUnhouse]

4-5 sessions is already over half of the battery life, and heating up from a cold start is going to use more battery life than keeping the oven temperature going. I was using mine heavily everyday for a little while, getting 6 sessions between charges (to keep the battery at its best) and charged daily. I didn't mind it because I know the limitations of the Solo. Ever since I made my power adapter, though, I've used it like that 90% of the time at my desk. Now it's only really portable when I step out of the house to do something outside or head out somewhere.

How many other portables deliver the quality of vapor that the Solo does and give you 7-8 full sessions per charge? And for ~$130-160 no less. I think there are few portables that get close to the efficiency/taste/effects ratio that the Solo does, and the ones that do (or beat it) are priced a little higher. I guess what I'm trying to say is that it's a matter of perspective.

If you find that the battery life really isn't cutting it for you, I suggest you look into one of the higher-capacity batteries that @CentiZen offers. It's a 3400mAh battery pack which is higher than the stock 2400mAh battery pack, which translates to roughly 50% more sessions. If you can use a screwdriver I'm sure you can replace the battery pack. He provides a video with instructions so you can watch it a few times before you do anything.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/vapepower-high-performance-vaporizer-batteries.9571/

I guess I was just expecting longer life. It is not a problem to plug it in for a bit to charge so I can finish the night I was just hoping I wouldn't need to .
I have no experience with other portable herb vapes so I can't compare .
And maybe down the line I will pick up the bigger battery .
Thanks for the info .

 

[exit]

Guys please help me out really quick before i blow something up.
Look at the pic of my disassembled M107 and M1E1... the red/black wires on the PCB coming from the battery plug are in opposite order of one another.

Should i hook the M1E1 battery up the same way it was connected (which would mean red going to black and vice versa) or should i match up the colors?

thanks in advance... just to be safe i'll wait for someone electonically minded to give their 2 cents and i'm not sure if this is a design change or just they happened to switcgh the colors...

alternate pic: http://i.imgur.com/XwtiE98.png

 

[OF]

I just got a new solo this week and so far I am disappointed in the battery life .
I feel like I should not have to charge more than once a night . I am not a very heavy vaper (4-5 small sessions a night) and I am using the solo solo

I'm kinda with PAK here (again) but think you might consider my test? Fully charge the battery, to a solid charge light. Then run 12 minute sessions with the top open (no stem) sitting upright on the table. One after the other. You should get a couple sessions on step 7, then (roughly) 'a session per step' down from there. 8 such sessions is a good number for a good battery I think.

ah great thank you.
i called up my local batteries plus, they do spot welding onto batteries, so maybe i'll take a pair of some 3200mAh Pannies down there and get some tabs put on?

just making sure i don't misunderstand you. of course i woul never solder directly to the battery but as long as getting tabs spot welded on the batteries of my choice wouldn't be a problem. then i will do it

Cool. Glad to hear you're too smart to solder to the bodies, sadly not everyone is. Bad place for one of those
'I read it on the web' things to gain traction I think. Welding at a battery shop (as is done for RC model packs) is just the proverbial ticket.

You might put some serious thought into the battery you decide to use. Arizer has engineers that know numbers, and salestypes that know 'numbers make sales' and are no doubt pushing for longer battery life? As does Dell and the other laptop makers? They all tend to use that same 2200mAh battery (or a close cousin) not the most attractive looking numbers. They have their reasons, I think, ignore 'em at your peril.

Pack duty calls for different compromises. Things like how they take being chronically weaker than the other battery in the pack (so they never completely recharge) for instance. And heat issues. Things that typically cost capacity. In a pack they need to start out as closely balanced as possible and deal well with being slightly out of balance, unlike loose batteries that are treated as individuals. And the have to take the abuse (minor as it is) for many hundreds of times. We hope a thousand or more?

Put another way, the 'smart money choice' is the one that's being used?

Good luck with it. I've had good luck following those guidelines, FWIW.

OF

 

[exit]

Thanks very much for the pointers OF.

As far as the batteries to use should I be DIY'ing it the whole way through, i posted on some flashlight battery enthusiast forums. I have a feeling if I do not use the kind of battery CentiZen prefers then I might just use some Sony VTC5 as I am familiar and comfortable with them. But still I am deferring the experts on what sort of battery to use.

For now I am waiting for advice on hooking up that other battery to my old solo so i can see if it's still alive, but i'm frightened i will put in in backwards and have no working solo!

 

[gangababa]

The two printed circuit boards are clearly differently designed. Do not make any comparisons between them.

 

[exit]

The two printed circuit boards are clearly differently designed. Do not make any comparisons between them.

This is definitely true
However i cleaned up some of the glue off the M107 under the wires after noticing B+ and B- indicators on the M1E1.
Turns out they actually did switch the positions of the + and - points of the PCB over time.

I made sure to test them before hooking up a new battery regardless.

Sad news though, the M107 exhibits the same symptoms even with a good battery.
I suppose the M107 is dead forever, RIP!
I doubt they will but I emailed arizer hoping they would take pity since it's not a battery issue

 

[OF]

The two printed circuit boards are clearly differently designed. Do not make any comparisons between them.

I'm with you there. Dangerous ground. The color of the wire doesn't matter (of course), in fact the ones I have are backwards from standard at the connector. But what does matter very much is the polarity of the voltage delivered.

IMO the only safe way to go is the measure the polarity at the PCB of the original battery pack and match it with the proposed replacement. Time to bust out the DMM with a clear head.

Thanks very much for the pointers OF.

For now I am waiting for advice on hooking up that other battery to my old solo so i can see if it's still alive, but i'm frightened i will put in in backwards and have no working solo!

A wise concern, IMO.

Be sure to tell your buds at CPF what you have in mind (sealed battery packs with no balance facility with internal protection PCB for low discharge).

Like I said, IMO the real experts aren't hanging out on the web. They're paid the big bucks to make sound engineering choices (what we want I think?) and IMO the fact that laptop and vape makers using such packs (like say the VB?) all end up with that battery type despite what the sales types would wish is compelling.

They too could use VT5s. Although they are not a particularly good choice IMO, based on the testing I did for them in the Cera thread......we just can't use that lovely high current feature effectively. Other, more common, Panasonics outperform them at the four Amp level in Cera, more so I bet at the two Amps we need here....if longer battery life was the goal? Again, they're optimized for features we don't need at the expense of ones we do.

Good luck with it.

OF

 

[Ansel]

i start off at 3 that's when it's real sweet and i suck on that for some time until it starts to diminish then i knock it up a setting (always leaving that beep on loud so i know when it turns off)...

then go upwards to the top whack sucking about 3 long draws at each level upwards.

#fuckcombustion

i wish i could have my solo time out at 20 minutes or 25.