Arizer Solo

[GetToTheChoppa]

Well the vape works good cause i didnt understand a lick of what you just said OF..

Ha!! I really do like this thing. Also like the help and info thank you. I ran a full 12 minutes on level 3. Took hits every now and then. It bounces from around 1.5a while heating down to 0.35a when it turns off. Not sure if thats just partially off maybe? Like turning a residential oven down to 200* instead of completely off?

It turns on and off quite a bit. Towards the end of 12 mins it would pop the heater on for under a second and then turn back off for about 2-3 seconds, then repeat. Im not sure if it does the same thing with the charger plugged in.

edit: Oh i just thought of a way. I could cut my charger cord and put in my own 2 connectors. Then the watt meter would read how much current is going into the Solo, and when. I dont think that it switches between charging, and heating, every 3 seconds? Should be able to tell by watching the red charging light and the watt meter at the same time.

 

[colgorkan]

Hey dark,

This is the tubing you want. I use the 0.25 inch ID because it stretches and fits snugly over the Solo stems and attaches to the 0.25 glass tubing (mflb stem) pieces I like to use as 'stinger' mouthpieces and links up to my bubbler and hydrotube easily. I would think 5/16" or 3/8" ID would work as well.

This is the tubing most widely used for collecting air and water samples for chemical analysis using EPA methods.

High-Purity White Silicone Rubber Tubing for Peristaltic Pumps

 

[GetToTheChoppa]

Whelp, i done dids it.

Cut the charger cord and put the watt meter in between. It read 12.18v and 0.67a while charging with the blinking green light. Then i turned the Solo on and it started to heat. But the amps didnt changed. Stayed pretty consistent at around 0.65-0.67a as the red heater light turned on and off.

I should have put my multimeter on the battery solder pads while it was running and charging to see if its the same. At current battery level it goes from 7.7v down to 7.4 when the heater kicks on. Will see what it does while charging and running.

edit: Did the test. Resting voltage was 7.95v. Turned it on and it did the same 7.7 down to 7.4v when the heater turns on. Then i plugged it in and the battery read 8.12v. Turned the unit on and it dropped to 7.74 as it first started heating to Level 2. Once it reached temp the heater would turn off and on and the voltage would go from 8.0v to 7.82v. It cycled every 2-3 seconds. The input from the plugged in charger again stayed consistent at 12v and 0.67a.

So, is power really shifting directions every 3 seconds? It seems the charger is helping the battery since the battery voltage is higher while plugged in. Im wondering if when you turn the Solo on, if the charge completely stops. Even though the green charge light is still blinking and the charger is still giving 0.67a. Maybe the charger helps the battery during use, but does not actually charge the battery unless the solo is turned off?

If that is the case i could put my watt meter with the battery as input and the solo as output, then do the charging and running test. I was worried when the charger kicked on, it would send 0.86a into the Output connection of my watt meter and possibly fry it. I dont know if its protected. I also cant remember if i already wrote that. The solo tests are medicating me haha.

edit #2: Ok it worked and didnt kill my watt meter. Turned the Solo on and like normal it was drawing over 2amps as the unit first starts to heat. Then i plugged the charger in. The amp draw from the battery dropped down to 1a while heating. As it continued to heat to Level 4 the amp draw slowly dropped to about 0.7a. And then.......guess what?? Chicken butt.

No for real guess what? When the red heater light turned on it was drawing 0.6a from the battery. When the heater light turned off, the watt meter read zero amps. Im not sure if that means the battery was completely relieved of its duty, because not plugged in it would read 0.35a. Or....did the watt meter read zero amps as the solo tried to throw a charge at the battery real quick. But it does not register the amp draw because its going into the Output connector on the watt meter.

edit #3: Ok, if this aint confusing enough. I just intentionally connected the watt meter backwards, and plugged the Solo in. Turns out the watt meter shows the accurate voltage, and lets the current pass through it backwards. It just does not give a current reading.

So that means i can plug in the charger, turn the unit on, and see if any current is going from the solo to the battery while its heating and charging. Ok......break!!

 

[fernand]

I have before, but to repeat the pad is made from small, uniform round wire. Not random shavings. We can assume (I think safely) that they researched optimum size. But round has the lowest surface area for volume (therefore lowest heat transfer to uselessly heating the metal rather than making vapor). It also tends to stay cleaner, being largely self cleaning. There's also the shedding issue and material safety in there. This (heat transfer) also favors SS over most metals as it has a lower 'specific heat' (heat per pound per degree) and lower conductivity than most metals.


OF

I see your statements but as an engineer I don't see what these factors improve. Good and not weak thermal conductivity helps uniform heating without localized hot/cold spots. Large surface area, not low, helps spread then quickly vaporize the oils.

I don't follow why you imply this material is any more self-cleaning than others. And what is the stuff that must be cleaned/torched off the pad? Is it nonvolatile in the oil to begin with or is it a product of heating/burning?

I'm not advocating brass over SS, in the end at high temps i'm not liking any metal's taste, glass weave might have an edge there. And I'm not saying you're mistaken in finding these pads very nice. But I'm just not following the actual mechanism of the advantages you are listing. Can you pls clarify?

@GetToTheChoppa Great, thanks! keep going!!! So how does a 9 volt supply behave? If they made no change to the circuit, did the CPU on the old ones just refuse to heat if any voltage was detected at the jack?

 

[Fozzie Bear]

Hey y'all, today I scored a killer case for my Solo. Heavy duty lock and a steel tether. It is a Master Lock Safe Space model 5900D.

So it will fit the Solo + charger, or the Solo + grinder, but not all three... Still for $11 new it was a deal! It even has a charging cable port at one side. The steel tether is a great security feature. I picked mine up at a thrift shop. Looks like amazon is the best deal at $15.88

 

[OF]

I see your statements but as an engineer I don't see what these factors improve. Good and not weak thermal conductivity helps uniform heating without localized hot/cold spots. Large surface area, not low, helps spread then quickly vaporize the oils.

I don't follow why you imply this material is any more self-cleaning than others. And what is the stuff that must be cleaned/torched off the pad? Is it nonvolatile in the oil to begin with or is it a product of heating/burning?

If you're an engineer, do you recall thermodynamics? You need it and 'the big picture' to understand. I'll take one more try at this.

Solo loads are cool (sub vaping) before the draw (with the exception to that in contact with the floor). While the basic heating is done by conduction is spread through the load by the draw. As much as 100F by my measurements, usually less, but significant. As that heat 'flows' to the load to do the good work any of it that's taken away (like to heat the metal in the load) reduces the vapor output, the total heat energy being fixed. Round shapes (low surface area per pound) slows that down, as does high specific heat and low conductivity.

Before you hit, the metal is the coldest stuff in the stem, you really want it to stay that way. Brass, or other copper alloys, is going the wrong way. Likewise rough shavings (which have more surface area to pick up the heat for their mass). This is the exact opposite of what happens in the Ascent (the load cools during the hit) so you want lots of mass and lots of surface but guys there are hung on 'all glass' so the material is fixed. Hence the glass flowers solution (which would be all wrong here most likely). There the glass contributes heat, in Solo metal will rob heat during the hit.

The stuff that fouls thing up is in the concentrate to start with. The stuff that makes up the 30% or so that isn't THC or other good stuff. Waxes are probably the worst offenders. Since the surface of the wire is very smooth (it's drawn through a diamond die......) and has a small radius it's very hard for stuff to stick to it really, unlike the rough surface of the shavings that make up the metal wools. It's the shape and surface finish that make it easier to keep clean, not the material.

Again, the German engineers who designed the Volcano pad seem to have gone to school and paid attention if you ask me.....and you did. IMO it's hard to go wrong following their lead.

Use whatever you want, I've stated several times what I recommend and why and as yet you've not responded to those points with anything more than repeating the same questions. I'm sorry if you don't understand, but it's not really my job to fix that. Feel free to ignore my advice if you wish, just expect me to speak up if what I think is questionable advice is passed on as Gospel. If you're comforted by the supplier of your favorite brass wool's assurance it's lead free (something I highly doubt, it's more expensive and harder to make into wool and wears out tools faster) that's OK by me. Why would they go to the trouble and expense and not brag about it on the label? "Lead free" sells. I'll bet he really has no idea where the brass used comes from (think scrap content). For sure his assurances 'nobody has lead in theirs' seems a bit absurd to me. How could he possibly know that? Free machining brass is 'all over'. Given the intended use of the wool there's no reason to not have lead in it (to a few percent) and every reason to.

I'll stick to materials intended for the duty when they're available. In this case they are, and the Volcano pads perform better than the SS scrub pad material I tried before that. Experience. Almost like it was designed for the use.

OF

 

[Imagine]

Hey y'all, today I scored a killer case for my Solo. Heavy duty lock and a steel tether. It is a Master Lock Safe Space model 5900D.

So it will fit the Solo + charger, or the Solo + grinder, but not all three... Still for $11 new it was a deal! It even has a charging cable port at one side. The steel tether is a great security feature. I picked mine up at a thrift shop. Looks like amazon is the best deal at $15.88

Nice case! Thought I might actually log in and post mine as well.

P.S. Buy some pluck foam for that!

Here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/Zeikos-ZE-HC3...d_sim_p_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0TF6RT1KPR1A3NEQW90N

However, I wish I bought the small one! But I have a perfect spot for a water attachment left.

 

[CarolKing]

Hey y'all, today I scored a killer case for my Solo. Heavy duty lock and a steel tether. It is a Master Lock Safe Space model 5900D.

So it will fit the Solo + charger, or the Solo + grinder, but not all three... Still for $11 new it was a deal! It even has a charging cable port at one side. The steel tether is a great security feature. I picked mine up at a thrift shop. Looks like amazon is the best deal at $15.88

Don't get too medicated and forget your combination. Good price and good quality.

I bought a car charger for my Solo. I sent the first one back because it stopped working after the second time I used it. I sent it back to Puffitup and they sent me a new one. Sativape our FC member told me I should change the fuse and it would be good to go, that was after I sent it back though, good idea.

The new one quit working yesterday and I went to radio shack and bought the fuse that would fit the car charger and I changed the fuse and it worked. I'm not very handy with electronics but I was able to fix it with a little help.

So much great advise on FC

Great name, don't you think.

 

[Fozzie Bear]

Don't get too medicated and forget your combination. Good price and good quality.

I bought a car charger for my Solo. I sent the first one back because it stopped working after the second time I used it. I sent it back to Puffitup and they sent me a new one. Satisvape our FC member told me I should change the fuse and it would be good to go, that was after I sent it back though, good idea.

The new one quit working yesterday and I went to radio shack and bought the fuse that would fit the car charger and I changed the fuse and it worked. I'm not very handy with electronics but I was able to fix it with a little help.

So much great advise on FC

Great name, don't you think.

I have one of these (well, not the same one but very close):

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-converters/pocket-inverters.htm

I've never had to charge my Solo in the car. My inverter is for the sole purpose of testing craigslist merchandise. However, a 100 watt inverter will have no problem with the AC charger that comes with the Solo.

One inverter has to be a better investment than multiple car chargers... Just my opinion. I'm sure having one charger at home and another in the car has plenty of utility for other users.

Check this one out:

http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-CPI-150-Micro-150-Inverter/dp/B000F6NULK

This would serve as your car charger for everything you own (Well, almost- some laptops and other high draw stuff would need a beefier inverter. Don't overload an inverter)

 

[BirdFLU]

I bought a cheap briefcase at salvation army for like 2 bucks and filled it with that type of foam. It was pretty awesome. That looks way better that what I had tho! It looks really nice.

Side note: Solo comes tomorrow and I can't even wait while I sit here making bags with my old herbalaire. I have been combusting rather than vaping for the past year or so....What was I thinking! My lungs don't hurt nor does my throat feel like shit. I'm excited for that little brown package tomorrow

 

[vv132]

hey got my replacement solo today from PUI. Fastest replacement service ever!. Got the m1A4A.
Can cross off the m1d2 and m1e for me.
Anyone notice it takes really long for it to fully charge on the 7 level. Up to level 7 it goes on normal timing increments but when its on 7 and blinking it takes ALOT longer for it to go full green or near it.

After charging it for 1hr and 30 min. It must of been blinking on 7 for the last 40 min. I eventually just took it off charging, didnt want to mess up the solo right off the bat. Anyone else not get a full charged 7 I know its not good for the battery but was hoping to get the timing down so i can pull it out before its full.

 

[P666R]

need to enlist the help of the FC nation!!!!
can anyone help a brother out in these trying times of the GonG adapter drought on planetvape!!!!!!

 

[BirdFLU]

need to enlist the help of the FC nation!!!!
can anyone help a brother out in these trying times of the GonG adapter drought on planetvape!!!!!!

Help two brothers out! I was trying to find alternatives then @Snappo made me aware of the Ed's stems which are made of wood. I might end up picking one up, never thought of wood on glass. While they are a little more expensive initially, it could be an option for the long run!

 

[P666R]

FUCK THAT i am trying to get the most out of my meds.
reclaim into edibles the more glass the better
BETTER TELL WALTER WHITE THAT IM THE GLASS MONSTAH
the vapors minus the water is to harsh.
i need it to be silk on the lungs
help two brothers out vape gods

i am not knocking the wood stems at all just a personal thing with the glass
got on my podium there my bad

 

[fernand]

I'm sorry if you don't understand, but it's not really my job to fix that.

Feel free to ignore my advice if you wish,

For sure his assurances 'nobody has lead in theirs' seems a bit absurd to me. How could he possibly know that?


@OF, thanks for taking the time.

FWIW, the Rhodes America contact replied to a detailed query from dread CA, including mention of human exposure (read potential lawsuit), in writing, that all the brass wool under discussion is lead-free. Obviously this refers to the material they offer, not all the brass wool in the world, not everybody's, as you claim. I have no a-priori reason to "highly doubt it" or otherwise demean.

As I said clearly, I'm not favoring Brass over Stainless. Remember quoted text?

I was asking about your reasoning and a few details, like what exactly you think is left behind on the metal. Never mind.

Where I come from, people discuss their theories and models, without getting offended, and they actually enjoy it. Sometimes models (and people) evolve as a result, and friendships develop.

Once I see the material and have a chance to compare it and think it over, I'll try to refrain from bothering Your Certainty with any impressions.

If the German SS material works best in your context, that's an observation I have no reason to question in the least. I even ordered some of the material you praised, remember that? No a-priori reason to "highly doubt it" or otherwise demean.

 

[GetToTheChoppa]

 

[OF]

Anyone notice it takes really long for it to fully charge on the 7 level. Up to level 7 it goes on normal timing increments but when its on 7 and blinking it takes ALOT longer for it to go full green or near it.

Yeah, that happens. Forming them (complete charge the first time) is a bit of a crap shoot. That's why makers don't put a time on it typically. It depends on the state of the battery to that point. Once it's fully formed (current drops to a very low level and charge terminates) it should be faster and more consistent from then on.

But if you want best battery life, follow the directions and fully charge it before discharging (using).

need to enlist the help of the FC nation!!!!
can anyone help a brother out in these trying times of the GonG adapter drought on planetvape!!!!!!

No big deal. Use your straight stem with a rubber band or two wrapped around the last half inch or so to build up the diameter enough to seal.

Many of us have done just this until our GonGs arrived.

Regards and best wishes with your experiments.

OF

 

[P666R]

i will be sure to buy a straight stem with it for reserves...
sadly the other forever dances away with my grand friend dimitri...
sadly mary may not join

i will just wait

 

[BirdFLU]

No big deal. Use your straight stem with a rubber band or two wrapped around the last half inch or so to build up the diameter enough to seal.

Many of us have done just this until our GonGs arrived.

Regards and best wishes with your experiments.

OF

Works for me! thanks for the tip!

 

[aceskace]

Im having an issue with my solo unit, its a fairly new one, After about 2 minutes the unit turns itself off, then the idle light continues to flash. Any idea how to fix this?

Mate,

Exact same problem, have been told that its a battery issue (mine was 2 months old when it started)

 

[CarolKing]

Aceskace, Soft reset - Plug into the charger and hold down the up button for 4-5 seconds, release and unplug.

Hard reset - Open the unit up and unplug the battery for 10 seconds - reassemble.

 

[aceskace]

HEy guys, so I wanted to a post on how im loving my solo after 6 weeks now (and I am/was), but I just started having some troubling issues that began after using my new eds stem (not sure if its related, but the metal does seem to work differently than the glass?) Though the issue itself began using glass (after using the metal/wood on 7 in a bong).

Anyway, basically what it does is sometimes after turing it on, instead of going to idle first its at one, and then when heating it fluctuates up and down, even higher than the temp I set sometimes, before either settling, or shutting off. Sometimes it will even work and turn on as usual, I even had a normal session (not 12 min tho), but also once in the middle of a fine session it would do that, both while I was inhaling and just sitting. (One thing that was odd with the wooden stem was that using the bong with it the temp would drop one or two with a big hit, before rising back up once stop inhaling, never saw that before with the glass, I guess bc the metal conducts too?). Finally to make matters worse, I think at one point, while it was dancing up and down, I continued to inhale, getting vapor, but it tasted a little off. Part of me thought it was just towards the end of the bowl (and it was), but given how everything seems I was afraid of some kinda offgas.

And so I have unscrewed the top to see that the little tab that sticks out a little on left, well there isn't one on the right! (And it might smell a little over there? Hard to tell For sure) And there is an exposed wire, and inside of the material of the oven (white) is exposed. But here's the thing, there's no piece, dangling or fell out or anything. So maybe it has been like this the whole time anyway? I never opened it until now.

So basically has anyone experience anything like any of what I've said before? Is my only course of action to contact arizer? (Bought from an eBay seller in Cali). So happy otherwise, but this scares/frustrates me...

EDIT: the smell is most definitely coming from the oven itself, not that little "hole" broken thing. Kinda smells plasticky?

Also other weird thing, after it shuts off it kinda comes back some times, or the idle light glimmers a little. Cuz it didn't get its 12min session but was confused and trying. Its an M1D btw. Is it just a dud? Anybody with experience exchanging through arizer? Thanks!!

Ive been told its a battery issue as i had the exact same problem down to the detail. Lucky i bought it from puffitup.com, Randy is replacing the battery (free of charge and i'm located in asia)

 

[fernand]

@GetToTheChoppa That's GREAT. Now if we can figure out the routine it's following, we can start hacking them ;-) What's the microcontroller type? Do we have detailed photos of the circuit boards?

Anybody got any fantasy recoding requests? I'd prolong the session time based on the user's turning it on immediately after it went off and rise the session time a little each time, assuming it's got enough of a lucid dream state running when it's "off" that it would KNOW it's waking up awful soon ;-)

On the great Canadian Gong Dearth of 2014, if you have some 1/2" ID tubing, you can try slipping a stem in the tube, and the tube around a 14mm male header? I think it was 1/2" ID... Well, some tape or rubber bands for the final seal?

Wow, @aceskace so here's the test of the e-bay purchase. MY guy sent a replacement stem, but that's easy. Try the guy of course, I assume, if the resets don't clear it. Good luck, Man!

 

[Dr. Soxhlet]

need to enlist the help of the FC nation!!!!
can anyone help a brother out in these trying times of the GonG adapter drought on planetvape!!!!!!

I used this with my Pinnacle Water Tool:

Just the straight stem with some tubing, but the bent will work too......careful, that bent stem tends to get away from you the way it spins around.

 

[vv132]

Yeah, that happens. Forming them (complete charge the first time) is a bit of a crap shoot. That's why makers don't put a time on it typically. It depends on the state of the battery to that point. Once it's fully formed (current drops to a very low level and charge terminates) it should be faster and more consistent from then on.

But if you want best battery life, follow the directions and fully charge it before discharging (using).


OF

Yea i'm trying to get the full charge in (m1A4A), damn light keeps blinking green! I also noticed when I go to take out the stem a little material is left in the chamber, basically every time. This didnt really happen on the older two units. Hopefully it does not persist

A positive is on the m1e and now this m1A4A the stems fit really snug, almost eliminating the need for those PV o-rings