Ah coolnipe, they are full size as big as we can fit.
I tried out the screen just to keep stuff more contained. I got this just before travelling, and knew it’d be using it outside mostly. i don’t think I pack the bowl enough for it to form that puck on the disc, and I just wanted it not to get everywhere if I was loading or unloading away from home. I’m seeing it as just temporary fix until I get the capsules.Sounds pretty good! I need to ask basic questions.
Why do you prefer a screen to the disk?
Why does a capsule allow loading less than a screen?
a full battery is a filled-up battery sign. The rapid charger can sometimes be bad for the battery. I use normal charger.@Gary-Airvape Good afternoon Gary. Quick question, is the battery indicator on the legacy pro suppose to show 1 blinking bar to represent a full charge? I charged my new legacy pro last night for 3 hours and it was still blinking 1 bar like it wasn't fully charged (say 80% charged). Put the extra battery in to make sure it was fully charged and it did the same thing.
Also, is it okay to use any usb c charger like a rapid charger or just plug it into a normal non rapid charger?
Thanks.
yes, We will do DealsAre we expecting a Black Friday deal for the AVLP? Doing my best to hold out on purchasing until the next best deal is available..
Remove the small gold screen
Mighty mesh screen on weed to keep it all clean.
Screen on bowl keeps everything clean and you can remove the small screen.
Just clean them in a iso scrubbing bath, using a wide-angle Gum brush. Pour 91% alcohol in shot glass, then stick you gum brush into the iso and enter the 2 rubber glass tube holder and move brush back-n-forth and rotate.i'm one of those maniacs who wants the possibility of cleaning the whole entire vape-path. and i'm used to just soaking stems/parts in ISO for glass/metal, cleaning with acetone for wood. ez pz.
after reading through the whole thing here, the only thing holding me back from getting the ALP are the 2 plastic/silicone sphincters at both ends of the glass tube, between glass and oven/mp.
how nasty are those 2 plastic/silicone segments to get clean of resin buildup? and how can one clean those like new? are they more like the impossible to clean pax satan's anus?
IME the USBC charging is Sloth Slow in comparison to Wireless charging.@Gary-Airvape Good afternoon Gary. Quick question, is the battery indicator on the legacy pro suppose to show 1 blinking bar to represent a full charge? I charged my new legacy pro last night for 3 hours and it was still blinking 1 bar like it wasn't fully charged (say 80% charged). Put the extra battery in to make sure it was fully charged and it did the same thing.
Also, is it okay to use any usb c charger like a rapid charger or just plug it into a normal non rapid charger?
Thanks.
i'm one of those maniacs who wants the possibility of cleaning the whole entire vape-path. and i'm used to just soaking stems/parts in ISO for glass/metal, cleaning with acetone for wood. ez pz.
after reading through the whole thing here, the only thing holding me back from getting the ALP are the 2 plastic/silicone sphincters at both ends of the glass tube, between glass and oven/mp.
how nasty are those 2 plastic/silicone segments to get clean of resin buildup? and how can one clean those like new? are they more like the impossible to clean pax satan's anus?
Dumb question but I always rinsed off my 3 dynavaps with water after cleaning with iso. So if I clean using iso (I know this stuff evaporates) on those 2 bends, do I have to do anything after cleaning it with iso? Usually when I clean I'm hitting them right after and I don't want to inhale iso.
Yes remove the oval gold screen next to the bowlDo you put the flower in the main chamber first, then put the screen on top? Or put the screen in first, then the flower on the screen?
As to removing the small gold screen, you mean the long, narrow screen right next to the main oven? (Referred to in the user manual as an airpath filter.)
Easy to cleani'm one of those maniacs who wants the possibility of cleaning the whole entire vape-path. and i'm used to just soaking stems/parts in ISO for glass/metal, cleaning with acetone for wood. ez pz.
after reading through the whole thing here, the only thing holding me back from getting the ALP are the 2 plastic/silicone sphincters at both ends of the glass tube, between glass and oven/mp.
how nasty are those 2 plastic/silicone segments to get clean of resin buildup? and how can one clean those like new? are they more like the impossible to clean pax satan's anus?
99.9% ISO > 95% ethanolI dont know Why people use Iso...its Toxic. Although you are Not Recommended to inhale any Alcohol vapors, Id Much rather use Everclear....95% Ethanol. And its Not Poisonous.
I clean with it, Ive made many an extraction with it and never worry about inadvertently poisoning myself. And it doesn't seem to be as hard on rubber/silicone parts.
Both kind of loads work. But not the same, by far. If i want to reduce the chamber i use the waxpad and full unscrew the disk.I think it may work regardless of the size cap
The small load loose pack or full load pack both work currently
I'll be removing the disc all together once a full sized cap is released
That is how on demand works. Heats up when pressed. Turns off the heat when not pressed.I've had my Legacy Pro for about a week now, and there really is only one issue. Apparently you can't hold a temp in on demand mode. I hope I'm wrong.
When you select on demand mode, you increase the temperature by holding the power button down. When it reaches the temp you want, if you take your finger off the power button, the temp will immediately drop to about 100F. IF you continue to hold the power button, it will reach 464.
Customer service suggested you can take a quick hit when it reaches your temp, then repeat the process. But apparently the unit takes 15 seconds to heat up, at which point it will vibrate. The drop to 100 or so is immediate, so that's not enough time to heat up to your desired temp.
I repeated this process several times last night, and the unit eventually vibrated. But did it vibrate because it reached 370 (my original desired temp) or 104? Or somewhere in between?
Perhaps the solution is to go to session mode, and immediately turn it off after my first draw. Then turn it back on and repeat for each hit.
I just confirmed that this works using my ALP:I've had my Legacy Pro for about a week now, and there really is only one issue. Apparently you can't hold a temp in on demand mode. I hope I'm wrong.
When you select on demand mode, you increase the temperature by holding the power button down. When it reaches the temp you want, if you take your finger off the power button, the temp will immediately drop to about 100F. IF you continue to hold the power button, it will reach 464.
Customer service suggested you can take a quick hit when it reaches your temp, then repeat the process. But apparently the unit takes 15 seconds to heat up, at which point it will vibrate. The drop to 100 or so is immediate, so that's not enough time to heat up to your desired temp.
I repeated this process several times last night, and the unit eventually vibrated. But did it vibrate because it reached 370 (my original desired temp) or 104? Or somewhere in between?
Perhaps the solution is to go to session mode, and immediately turn it off after my first draw. Then turn it back on and repeat for each hit.
In O-D mode set desired temp with arrow buttons and then press and hold the circular botton. Temp rises to set temp and device notifies you. Continuing to the circular button take your hit. Device stays at set temp until either run clock expires or circular button is released.