Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"
- Thread starter TrueNorthStar
- Start date
2clicker
Observer
i wish i could make a living working on fun shit like this but unfortunately not. i do have a solid design for a dabbers atty. i have actually considered buying one of those desktop cnc machines to make them.
i wish the day was 48 hours long.
fernand
Well-Known Member
@2clicker where can one buy a sleeved stovetop coil?
BTW, I'm confused. Isn't Silica = glass = Silicon Dioxide? And isn't naturally occurring Quartz also = Silicon Dioxide in just a more crystalline state? Anybody know what's the difference?
@2clicker, Wow, frankly it didn't occur to me that anyone would bite through the plating enough to flake it. I figured these would have other failures before THAT! Maybe I'd put a softer drip tip on it, like Delrin?
Loved the SS rounded tip, but the problem with the miniAeroTank was the way the bottom threaded tube was spot-welded in the cross-bar and fell apart. Using that tip on a mPT3.
@215z, Yes, if you want to use the tank, filling with thick oil is tough if it's not coming down a (fat) needle. I've been vaping PureGold and thick oil in the mPT2's with a 2.2 ohm head, just as if it were designed for it, it works. But the next one I fill I'm going to try to dribble warm erl into the tank unassembled, i.e. while holding the pyrex tube to the top part with some tape, then screw the top and bottom together with the head already in the bottom, then take off the tape.
BTW, I'm confused. Isn't Silica = glass = Silicon Dioxide? And isn't naturally occurring Quartz also = Silicon Dioxide in just a more crystalline state? Anybody know what's the difference?
@2clicker, Wow, frankly it didn't occur to me that anyone would bite through the plating enough to flake it. I figured these would have other failures before THAT! Maybe I'd put a softer drip tip on it, like Delrin?
Loved the SS rounded tip, but the problem with the miniAeroTank was the way the bottom threaded tube was spot-welded in the cross-bar and fell apart. Using that tip on a mPT3.
@215z, Yes, if you want to use the tank, filling with thick oil is tough if it's not coming down a (fat) needle. I've been vaping PureGold and thick oil in the mPT2's with a 2.2 ohm head, just as if it were designed for it, it works. But the next one I fill I'm going to try to dribble warm erl into the tank unassembled, i.e. while holding the pyrex tube to the top part with some tape, then screw the top and bottom together with the head already in the bottom, then take off the tape.
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2clicker
Observer
you would have to build the sleeved stove top coil. i have pics and description of materials needed a few pages back. its basically just a normal stove top coil, but thread the wire through some 2mm readyXwick before building.
regarding plated protank flaking... i didnt bite it. lol... its flaked just from use. i dont use metal drip tips. delrin only for me thanks. but both my old protank mini and my anyvape devide mini both have the plating either flaking off or just rubbing off. the plating used on them is weak me thinks. either way i like the brushed finish of the SS tanks over the chrome plated finish.
215z
Well-Known Member
I should add that in theory I choose stainless steel over chromed brass due to price. Machined SS is far cheaper than a hard chromed finish - done right. Ask any firearm enthusiast about finishing options. "I like the look and performance of hard-chromed low-carbon steel, but for now I can only afford high-carbon (stainless) steel".
If someone is selling chromed brass for the same price as stainless steel, it is some shoddy plating work. Decorative chroming, which Chinese manufacturers use for our shiny water faucets, is measured in the millionths of an inch. Hard chrome is measured in the thousandths of an inch.
Hard chrome is used on hydraulic pistons
Reciprocating machinegun components, as well as machinegun & cannon barrels
Seriously, hard chromed finish is the shit. But if someone is selling it cheap, it is shit. And it begs the question of how cheaply the underplating is done (not neccessary with pure brass) and how cheap the brass is.
You can get your atomizer chromed by legit reputable people (ex Metaloy) for about $35 to $70. Seems way cheaper to just buy the stainless steel item in the first place.
Scaremongering over, we now return you to your regularly scheduled broadcast. That sleeved flat spiral @2clicker wound is the shit, I don't have the skills and dexterity to wind a usable flat spiral.
If someone is selling chromed brass for the same price as stainless steel, it is some shoddy plating work. Decorative chroming, which Chinese manufacturers use for our shiny water faucets, is measured in the millionths of an inch. Hard chrome is measured in the thousandths of an inch.
Hard chrome is used on hydraulic pistons
Reciprocating machinegun components, as well as machinegun & cannon barrels
Seriously, hard chromed finish is the shit. But if someone is selling it cheap, it is shit. And it begs the question of how cheaply the underplating is done (not neccessary with pure brass) and how cheap the brass is.
You can get your atomizer chromed by legit reputable people (ex Metaloy) for about $35 to $70. Seems way cheaper to just buy the stainless steel item in the first place.
Scaremongering over, we now return you to your regularly scheduled broadcast. That sleeved flat spiral @2clicker wound is the shit, I don't have the skills and dexterity to wind a usable flat spiral.
2clicker
Observer
I should add that in theory I choose stainless steel over chromed brass due to price. Machined SS is far cheaper than a hard chromed finish - done right. Ask any firearm enthusiast about finishing options. "I like the look and performance of hard-chromed low-carbon steel, but for now I can only afford high-carbon (stainless) steel".
If someone is selling chromed brass for the same price as stainless steel, it is some shoddy plating work. Decorative chroming, which Chinese manufacturers use for our shiny water faucets, is measured in the millionths of an inch. Hard chrome is measured in the thousandths of an inch.
Hard chrome is used on hydraulic pistons
Reciprocating machinegun components, as well as machinegun & cannon barrels
Seriously, hard chromed finish is the shit. But if someone is selling it cheap, it is shit. And it begs the question of how cheaply the underplating is done (not neccessary with pure brass) and how cheap the brass is.
You can get your atomizer chromed by legit reputable people (ex Metaloy) for about $35 to $70. Seems way cheaper to just buy the stainless steel item in the first place.
Scaremongering over, we now return you to your regularly scheduled broadcast. That sleeved flat spiral @2clicker wound is the shit, I don't have the skills and dexterity to wind a usable flat spiral.
the plated kangers are indeed cheaper than the stainless tanks. so maybe it is total shit plating or its a dif plating than hard chrome...?
regarding the snake coil... its much easier than you think @215z.
2clicker
Observer
hey there. you do not want to use silica wick for this coil (or any really). you need to use "ready x wick" from RBAsupplies.com. its a braided ceramic wick of which is hollow. it is very easy to thread the wire through. if you are trying to thread it through silica then i doubt its hollow...?
if you do have readyX and cant get it to thread i am not sure. maybe the end are fraying making it difficult...?
fernand
Well-Known Member
This "wick around wire" strikes me as one of the best ideas to come along in a while. No need for a capture system, just dump the shit on the electric blanket and give momma some watts ! The way wicks wuz being done was Bass-Ackwards!
So what's the recommended kit, here, @2clicker, starting from no usable RBA (but plenny batteries, provari etc.) Not necessarily the all-surgical-steel and laser-polished ruby set, I'm surprisingly good with cheap gear ;-)
So what's the recommended kit, here, @2clicker, starting from no usable RBA (but plenny batteries, provari etc.) Not necessarily the all-surgical-steel and laser-polished ruby set, I'm surprisingly good with cheap gear ;-)
2clicker
Observer
well you should be able to squeeze that coil into your favorite RBA. i use an igo-w base with a halo cap. really the only required material is the 2mm readyXwick and whatever kanthal you prefer. thicker wire seems to work a lil better because it holds it shape better, but any will work im sure. im using an red efest 18350 w/ a 1.3ohm coil.
here is my post with pics. as you can see i have the coil mounted above the contacts. this allows for a larger coil. set screws instead of the pan head screws give a little more room as well.
well i suppose i will just put there here for now. the sleeved stovetop... or snake coil, or serp coil, or whatever.im using set screws that allow my coil to sit lower. of which allows for a wider coil. very easy to load and clean. really enjoying it.
brand new at 1.32ohms
after about a 1/2g through it
self cleaning
all shiny again!
heyo, me again with them ftlinks:
ceramic: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1785603
silica: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1785602
this seems to be the best one prebuilt yet
ceramic: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1785603
silica: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1785602
this seems to be the best one prebuilt yet
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215z
Well-Known Member
Can that be cleaned out? How does it look disassembled? I posted a pic of that atty earlier, but an important feature for us MJ users is being able to easily clean (and better yet reclaim) all the little parts. I would be very grateful if you were the guinea pig to test it out for us @funkyjunky 
it says a replaceable coil... not rebuildable... the whole ceramic cup, metal jacket and everything inside slided out of a 510 connected sleeve...heyo, me again with them ftlinks:
ceramic: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1785603
silica: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1785602
this seems to be the best one prebuilt yet
is there a fully rebuildable that you would suggest for the stove top coil @2clicker ... I suppose we would be looking for maximum surface area right?
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chronickiller7
Well-Known Member
Hey guys. I just got into mechanical mods and rda's, and got this set up today. I've seen this thread before, but never really read into it. Now that I know more about mods and what not, I would love to build a sick oil rda. Could I use what I have currently? I might take one of these coil builds and have my local vape shop build me an oil rda hahaha, but they may catch on haha.
Patrick Hughes
Stoneman
woah, woah, best prebuilt? it might be the cheapest but... Divine tribe and UP Tech have some pretty nice prebuilts.heyo, me again with them ftlinks:
ceramic: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1785603
silica: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1785602
this seems to be the best one prebuilt yet
2clicker
Observer
no not really. i use an igo-w, but would love to find something that has the pos and neg posts on the outside edges of the deck. this would leave the middle open for as wide of a coil as you would like. but other than that the coil can mounted above the posts in any RDA.
whatever RDA provides the most space is what i would recommend i suppose. aside from the 26mm stuff. thats going overboard IMO.
if anyone knows of a solid RDA that provides a lot of working space for large coils please post it up.
215z
Well-Known Member
@2clicker wouldn't your coil be best suited for an RDA that has one post in the center, and the second post on the edge? After all, one leg of your spiral coil is in the center, and the other leg is at the outer edge. Let me know if I am visualizing it incorrectly.
The IGO-W2 makes for a lousy e-cig atty, but I've fantasized about your spiral coil being installed inside its juicewell, on the floor.
The IGO-W2 makes for a lousy e-cig atty, but I've fantasized about your spiral coil being installed inside its juicewell, on the floor.
links man links!@2clicker wouldn't your coil be best suited for an RDA that has one post in the center, and the second post on the edge? After all, one leg of your spiral coil is in the center, and the other leg is at the outer edge. Let me know if I am visualizing it incorrectly.
The IGO-W2 makes for a lousy e-cig atty, but I've fantasized about your spiral coil being installed inside its juicewell, on the floor.
ive used mvs anyone else use them?
http://www.myvaporstore.com/Youde_UD_IGO_W2_Rebuildable_Atomizer_p/yd-igow2.htm
2clicker
Observer
@2clicker wouldn't your coil be best suited for an RDA that has one post in the center, and the second post on the edge? After all, one leg of your spiral coil is in the center, and the other leg is at the outer edge. Let me know if I am visualizing it incorrectly.
The IGO-W2 makes for a lousy e-cig atty, but I've fantasized about your spiral coil being installed inside its juicewell, on the floor.
yes the leads do come off the coil in that fashion, but id still like it to sit lower in the RDA rather than on top of the posts.
that igo-w2 looks like the center post is way too big.
@farscaper, i have use myvaporstore before and they are a top notch supplier.
chronickiller7
Well-Known Member
http://s1018.photobucket.com/user/chronickiller7/media/Mobile Uploads/IMAG0118_zpsapwaxrec.jpg.html
Would replacing the cotton with ss mesh make this a usable rad for oil? I just got my wisdom teeth out 2 days ago, and while I am recovering surprisingly quickly, I don't want to hit my oil rig (toro macro xl) since it has too much drag. Don't want to deal with dry socket hahaha. I found I can take a nice hit off this rda, since there is a lot of air flow.
Would replacing the cotton with ss mesh make this a usable rad for oil? I just got my wisdom teeth out 2 days ago, and while I am recovering surprisingly quickly, I don't want to hit my oil rig (toro macro xl) since it has too much drag. Don't want to deal with dry socket hahaha. I found I can take a nice hit off this rda, since there is a lot of air flow.
215z
Well-Known Member
I find oil hits off SS mesh to be the harshest of all wick media. I think it is because of its potential to have hotter dry spots than other media. I think you shouldn't change out your current wick, at least while you are still recovering.
Pulse your coil a few times with the cap off to warm them up, then use a dab tool to "paint" the coils with oil. Take a hit and hopefully it will get you there. If you need to vape larger amounts of oil, call your local ecig stores to see if they have FC-2000 wick. It is this black porous ceramic rod that can hold a good amount of oil, and is way more gentle to vape of than SS mesh.
Pulse your coil a few times with the cap off to warm them up, then use a dab tool to "paint" the coils with oil. Take a hit and hopefully it will get you there. If you need to vape larger amounts of oil, call your local ecig stores to see if they have FC-2000 wick. It is this black porous ceramic rod that can hold a good amount of oil, and is way more gentle to vape of than SS mesh.
chronickiller7
Well-Known Member
So I should leave the wick in there with the juice, and put the oil on the coil? Will the dab melt more/before the e juice? I just don't want to have to sit there hitting it. I want to minimize the amount of draw I have to do. Even if it means pulling the wicks and just using the coils and oil. I don't mind killing this coil/ build in a couple days.
chronickiller7
Well-Known Member
I must say this worked surprisingly well. Didn't aggravate my healing mouth. Tasted decent, especially with a little e juice. I can't wait to build a legit coil and take some massive rips hahaha. I have a feeling it'll compete with my oil rig hahaha.
is that a Kamry?
I must say this worked surprisingly well. Didn't aggravate my healing mouth. Tasted decent, especially with a little e juice. I can't wait to build a legit coil and take some massive rips hahaha. I have a feeling it'll compete with my oil rig hahaha.
chronickiller7
Well-Known Member
Indeed. But I got a better battery. The rda is the IGO- W. And for a $15 rda, it hits hard. Especially with a good build. I wanna try that FC-2000 ceramic wick next though.