710 coils
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Bunny
Well-Known Member
Hi all I love the look of all the 710 coils products! I’m from the UK I started out dabbing from a Ti/quartz hybrid with a flat coil and cheap P.I.D ( the set up still cost £200 a Dabbie Dabstation, as there are not many choices for 240V ?) I moved on to Dab rigs and torch and quartz. These coil and banger set ups look great I assume my PID won’t be compatible? What do you recommend for the U.K. cheers
It might be compatible, or if you are handy with a soldering iron you could re-wire your coil or PID quite easily.
If you have a multimeter I could explain to you how to test it to determine the pin layout and determine if it's compatible ...
You should just test the resistance across the pins on the coil without anything plugged in.
You should get ~100-150 ohms or so on the coil, and about 5-15 ohms on the thermocouple.
The d-nail wiring, and what the 710 coils use are:
- Pin 1: AC Load
- Pin 2: AC Neutral
- Pin 3: TC+
- Pin 4: TC-
- Pin 5: Ground
So if you measure the resistance across pins 1 & 2 you should get ~100-150 ohms and if you measure the resistance across pins 3 & 4 you should get a resistance of about 5-15 ohms (if it is wired the same as the d-nail standard)
If you unscrew the barrel connector on your coil, and have a look at the wires connected, that might give you some indication too; usually the TC+ is red, TC- is black, the AC wires are usually the same colour, and the ground is often green ...
Hope that helps!
You should get ~100-150 ohms or so on the coil, and about 5-15 ohms on the thermocouple.
The d-nail wiring, and what the 710 coils use are:
- Pin 1: AC Load
- Pin 2: AC Neutral
- Pin 3: TC+
- Pin 4: TC-
- Pin 5: Ground
So if you measure the resistance across pins 1 & 2 you should get ~100-150 ohms and if you measure the resistance across pins 3 & 4 you should get a resistance of about 5-15 ohms (if it is wired the same as the d-nail standard)
If you unscrew the barrel connector on your coil, and have a look at the wires connected, that might give you some indication too; usually the TC+ is red, TC- is black, the AC wires are usually the same colour, and the ground is often green ...
Hope that helps!
Dankman006
New Member
Gotta get the axial coil..its a game changer
If you need to rewire, the soldering can be a little tricky.
Some pointers:
- make sure your iron is really nice and hot, as minimizing contact time is essential
- use flux both for de-soldering and soldering
- you have to be relatively quick as if you spend much time on each pin, they will melt in the plastic connector
I would say it's easier to rewire the coil, however, that means you'll have to rewire many coils over your lifetime potentially ... vs if you do the PID, then you can just buy d-nail standard wiring for coils moving forwards (which are the most common and what 710 has
)
Bunny
Well-Known Member
I would say it's easier to rewire the coil, however, that means you'll have to rewire many coils over your lifetime potentially ... vs if you do the PID, then you can just buy d-nail standard wiring for coils moving forwards (which are the most common and what 710 has
I will test the coil and report back cheers.
Grifo
Well-Known Member
i do have it but not the newer version
@Grifo The older coils have 2 less wraps to them. They were added to improve the coil/banger fit and to also add more heat to the sidewalls. The combination is why you are seeing a difference in performance and temps when compared to what others are reporting. Hit me up and I will do you a deal on a new axial coil when you are ready =)
Coils landed Tuesday and more bangers land tomorrow.
25mm opaque 90 degree 14mm
30mm opaque 90 degree 14mm
18 to 14mm reducers
Inserts are due next week =)
Hope everyone is having a great day
Shane
Coils landed Tuesday and more bangers land tomorrow.
25mm opaque 90 degree 14mm
30mm opaque 90 degree 14mm
18 to 14mm reducers
Inserts are due next week =)
Hope everyone is having a great day
Shane
Bunny
Well-Known Member
So @JCat this is my coil
Pin 1-2 was 498 ohms 3-4 no reading as 3 is ground pin 4-5 was 5 ohms. So
Pin 1 is AC load
Pin 2 is AC Neutral
Pin 3 is ground
Pin 4 is TC +
Pin 5 is TC -
So I will need to rewrite the PID making Pin 3 TC+
Pin 4 TC-
Pin 5 ground
So swapping three cables. Does this seem right? I will likely open the PID tomorrow and have a look. @710Coils IF I don’t manage the conversion do you recommend a budget PID for you 220 v coils. Cheers
Pin 1-2 was 498 ohms 3-4 no reading as 3 is ground pin 4-5 was 5 ohms. So
Pin 1 is AC load
Pin 2 is AC Neutral
Pin 3 is ground
Pin 4 is TC +
Pin 5 is TC -
So I will need to rewrite the PID making Pin 3 TC+
Pin 4 TC-
Pin 5 ground
So swapping three cables. Does this seem right? I will likely open the PID tomorrow and have a look. @710Coils IF I don’t manage the conversion do you recommend a budget PID for you 220 v coils. Cheers
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@Bunny What you call out sounds correct
3 will be TC+
4 will be TC-
5 will be ground
If foe some reason it doesn't work. I would highly recommend an Auber RDK-300. They work perfectly in both 110 and 220 with nothing needed other than to plug it in.
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=484
If you end up needing a controller. I can purchase one and send it over so you dont have to pay as much for duties and such =)
Shane
3 will be TC+
4 will be TC-
5 will be ground
If foe some reason it doesn't work. I would highly recommend an Auber RDK-300. They work perfectly in both 110 and 220 with nothing needed other than to plug it in.
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=484
If you end up needing a controller. I can purchase one and send it over so you dont have to pay as much for duties and such =)
Shane
biohacker
HREAM
@biohacker Those and the female versions are still a week or so out. But they are in the works and will hopefully ship sooner than later =)
Bunny
Well-Known Member
@710 coils some sic inserts would bring you inline with high end electronic nails. Great performance and they don’t chaz, They are pricey though over $100 for 30mm .
@JCat I rewired my PID. I should have noticed the pins are numberd on the coil I got them backwards!
So I just rewired the correct sequence in the pid swapping cables under screws I cut 5 for ground and used the cable to solder thermocouple + onto 3. No need to unsolder anything!
As seen above the original wiring on my PID is meant to be 4 power +
And. 5 Power-
So I wired the cable from 4 to 1
And 5 to 2
In the photo below you can see it doesn’t say which is positive and negative in the heater side so I went with the above. Does it matter which side is which like a light bulb as it’s not marked? I wired it as seen in the first image.Its probably hard to understand but I think it will work.
@JCat I rewired my PID. I should have noticed the pins are numberd on the coil I got them backwards!
So I just rewired the correct sequence in the pid swapping cables under screws I cut 5 for ground and used the cable to solder thermocouple + onto 3. No need to unsolder anything!
As seen above the original wiring on my PID is meant to be 4 power +
And. 5 Power-
So I wired the cable from 4 to 1
And 5 to 2
In the photo below you can see it doesn’t say which is positive and negative in the heater side so I went with the above. Does it matter which side is which like a light bulb as it’s not marked? I wired it as seen in the first image.Its probably hard to understand but I think it will work.
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Great stuff @Bunny! (Yes, the pins are always numbered on the connectors, both of them ... just often very tough to see!) Often inside the PIDs there are things soldered (especially the neutral), which makes rewiring without re-soldering not possible (or cutting/splicing ). Really glad it worked out! Now you can use standard coil wiring
... just often very tough to see!) Often inside the PIDs there are things soldered (especially the neutral), which makes rewiring without re-soldering not possible (or cutting/splicing ). Really glad it worked out! Now you can use standard coil wiring
Bunny
Well-Known Member
Great stuff @Bunny! (Yes, the pins are always numbered on the connectors, both of them
Thanks for the help guys. Getting a 30mm axial coil and 30mm opaque banger from a friend who’s getting a shipment from 710 coils to the U.K. can’t wait I’m also going to get a SIC insert for 30mm bangers from Fadespace when available. I will post back when it’s all up and running. Ultimate set up for a couple of hundred!
Just got my 25mm opaque with inserts, and after 1st dab, I think I prefer it to my 30mm (and that says a lot )
30mm is still indispensable for finishing off the last hit in my glass jars (as the glass jars can be put right in the banger), but I think I might favour the 25mm most of the time. I'll report back after a day or two of usage ...
Edit: now to buy the GG ruby insert and terp pearls to go with it or not ... that is the question
)30mm is still indispensable for finishing off the last hit in my glass jars (as the glass jars can be put right in the banger), but I think I might favour the 25mm most of the time. I'll report back after a day or two of usage ...
Edit: now to buy the GG ruby insert and terp pearls to go with it or not ... that is the question
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