Not sure if you are still looking but I strongly prefer the BB6 stem, much smoother vapor than the M and natively works with 14mm water pipes.
All I can answer is your first question, but I’d say that the 21m tip just feels like a more airy 19m tip with adjust a bowl and a captive cap. IH use isn’t so great, but that’s on the new cap style and a whole other discussion. It’s possible to tweak your IH (if you have one that can be tweaked) to negate this.
Very concise answer, thanks. And yeah, my DIY IH has a voltage (and thus wattage) regulator.
Got it. I personally feel like the 20m might have issues with the limited amount of contact area between tip and cap. Combine that with its mass and you have a tip that heats up relatively slowly, but stays warm long. Great for pre-heats. Great for session vaping.
(don't soak the cap)
ing around trying to get it seated properly. The HBC also adds some mass to the tip but I have no idea/experience what effect it has on performance.
Thanks for your answers. Testing it on the condenser, awesome tip, why didn't i think of that sooner.Here is my air flow experience with the M range.
2018 very restricted.
2019 less restricted, perfect for me.
2020 very free flowing, not my jam but great on a water peice.
2021 somewhere between the 19 and the 20.
Of my two daily drivers I tend to use the 21(captive) more as a session vape and the 19(standard) for those quicker extraction needs, although both can do either with appropriate techniques.
It must be said though.... the cap makes a big difference to air flow with the standard cap being more restricted and the captive increasing flow.
Can't speak for the gorgeous phantom coating, but whenever I want my DVs sparkling clean I give them a soak in Powdered Brewers Wash followed by a thorough rinse and they come up beautiful.
You could test the PBW on the phantom's condenser before you risk it on the main bits.
Never tried a low temp cap but the perf cap seems to extend the session and give a bit more airflow. It also looks awesome.
I think the Half Bowl Converter is just the right height so that it supports the ccd as it "clicks" into place, therefore eliminating the
Happy vaping.
You can get a standard M unless you need a longer vapor path--I'm not a former smoker, so my first Dyna stem was a Sneaky Pete Wet Winder to use with or without water. I loved it--no coughing. So I either get longer stems, or I get something with an Intercooler like Simrell stems have--I don't even cough on my Shorty Simrell.
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,playing with it.
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)advantage of my DIY over the Ispire ,is the quicker heating(9/15 seconds depending on first or 3th or 4 th hit.)and consistence over battery powered.
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The CCD/screen sits in grooves in the middle of the Dyna bowl, but the CCD's often get bent when I try to put them into the half bowl position. That's why Sneaky gives you CCDs with the Converter--or do you have an older tip that wasn't designed to do half bowls? I guess then your flower would keep the CCD in place?
My first IH was a small desktop unit from the Etsy maker of Magicoil--it was hard to get any IH's at that time, but I prefer buying cool things makers make vs. making things myself. I may get into DIY when I buy a "heavy hitter" and add balls to it, though!
During Think Dank Friday, Jerry said he didn't use his Azurium for quite a while for fear of ruining the color--I know Dynavap says the Azurium is more changeable, a Canvas, but I love the unique blue. I have used my Obsidium, though, but my go to is an Aezehnwood. HEY How do I delete a posted message, or combine to avoid the double message error??
The half bowl converter will only work with tips with the adjust-a-bowl feature, so your pre-2020 M tips won't work with it.
Sorry to bump my question up, but the more I read, the less I know, so I will expand on it. Some people say that they like the ability to tweak the voltage too, which is one of the features of the YllVape I kinda overlooked. But what's the difference? I suppose it can heat faster or slower, but then what is the resulting effect? I would tend to think that by using lower voltage (thus less power in input), heat would take longer to build up, thus allowing a more uniform heating of plant material?
Yes, but also a difference in the heat that's transferred into the tip and material. If I crank mine up to 70W, the cap will click within seconds. But the heat only gets that same amount of time to transfer between cap and tip/material. If I reach that same cap temp by heating up much slower, the tip gets more time to actually heat up to around the same temp as the cap.
Thanks for answering. Well, that defeats the entire purpose of the thing. If I have adjust-a-bowl, imo there's no need for a half bowl converter anymore. Ill just keep filling my 2019 half-full then.
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) ,it just stays blue like this probably forever.
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The Sneaky Pete half bowl adapter just makes it easier to get the CCD in the correct position for the half bowl. Doing it manually, even using the condenser as a tool/guide, can be tricky. Sneaky Pete claims improved performance due to the adapter retaining heat, but I haven't really found that to be true. I use the half bowl adapter in my Omni, but not in my 2020 or 20201 M. The M gets really hot with the adapter in place. I just use the half bowl setting with my M.
, sometimes fiddly but I always beat the bastard soon enough.
Cool, thank you interesting... can't get Simple Green Crystal here for a normal price$$$.so I,am forced to use different stuff.
