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shatter-reality

Well-Known Member
Yeah like all that works. You can feel the heat, the heater glows, but there’s like 3-4 inches of space between the bowl in the and the heater with the OG cover. I just can’t get a good draw on it sadly. With or without balls I cannot get it really to hit well at all. I’ll figure it out eventually.
 

Flow

Well-Known Member
Hello @shatter-reality ,
As others say in this post i remember i read something you might have a look at...
The top of the rod must come so close to the heater cover that it nearly touch it... Nearly ! And the bottom of the heater cover must sit in the bottom of the device. Not flush, but not 5mm over...
Would you mind doing a photo of the heating rod working in your device ? zooming on the top of it ? And althought the bottom of the heater cover ? Something might not be in place ?

My SSV's on glass tube and working flawlessly that way. Ground glass and a 14 male stem with adaptator (14F/19M) and @DDave baskets is my prefered setup for now.
I never have to go past noon and the power is in the heat flow that i find to be more consistent... easy mod and you can find it for cheap on elev8 website ;)
 

SSV_Steve_Elev8

Manufacturer
Manufacturer
Yeah like all that works. You can feel the heat, the heater glows, but there’s like 3-4 inches of space between the bowl in the and the heater with the OG cover. I just can’t get a good draw on it sadly. With or without balls I cannot get it really to hit well at all. I’ll figure it out eventually.
One question, how close to the top of the heater cover is your heater? It should be close to touching but not touching. This makes all the differnce.

@DDave Been waiting since October to buy a a microdosing mod for the SSV. Are you having supplier issues?
We can make smaller wands if you like? We are actually glassblowers and can make what your heart desires
 

Ramahs

Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
I'd like the spherical heater cover and wand, because I think it would be simpler to use, and I keep thinking about buying them...but at the same time, the precision of the air jet from the OG heater cover and the circular swirl pattern you learn to make with the wand to ensure even heating just gives you one more manual variable to play with to customize your hit. I've always liked that manual experience, even if it takes longer to nail down the technique at first. It's usually worth the trouble in the long run.
 

SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
I'd like the spherical heater cover and wand, because I think it would be simpler to use, and I keep thinking about buying them...but at the same time, the precision of the air jet from the OG heater cover and the circular swirl pattern you learn to make with the wand to ensure even heating just gives you one more manual variable to play with to customize your hit. I've always liked that manual experience, even if it takes longer to nail down the technique at first. It's usually worth the trouble in the long run.

I haven't used the OG but I can attest to the ease of using the spherical glass cover. My wand never stops moving, I'm always rotating it back and forth to achieve a more even roast. It adds to the ritual imo which is fantastic with this vape.
 

VapePerson

Searching for Tremendous
One question, how close to the top of the heater cover is your heater? It should be close to touching but not touching. This makes all the differnce.
I'm not him, but I have mine around the middle of the airpath, looking in. I found it hard to get a good enough draw with balls when it was "close" to the top of the tube.

Modnote: Edited to remove reply from quote tags
 
Last edited by a moderator:

shatter-reality

Well-Known Member
One question, how close to the top of the heater cover is your heater? It should be close to touching but not touching. This makes all the differnce.


We can make smaller wands if you like? We are actually glassblowers and can make what your heart desires
There’s a small small gap between the two when it was connected. If I had the unit glowing the rod(4’oclock+)and just drawing on it very very slowly I could get it to hit and produce vapor but it was always weak and wispy.

I appreciate the glass blowing ideology as well but that isn’t in the cards for me right now. :’) I’ll figure it out eventually and put it on my desk next to my computer where it’ll stay once I do.

I think you guys have one of the coolest desktop applications with your Super Silver Surfer and the regular one as well. Just prefer heavy quick extractions through water when I’m at home. Too many projects right now to mess with all of them but I’m gonna return to this one hopefully in the spring next year.
 

710yota

Have you heard about the boom on Mizar 5?
I pulled out my Surfer from it's hiberation in the closet and found a place for it on the desk again, wish I had done it sooner. Been getting some great dry hits using the 18mm ddave ground glass wand! No fancy beads or anything!
 

blackstone

Well-Known Member
There’s a small small gap between the two when it was connected. If I had the unit glowing the rod(4’oclock+)and just drawing on it very very slowly I could get it to hit and produce vapor but it was always weak and wispy.

Maybe try pulling the rod up so there is the tiniest gap or so it's almost touching the glass.
After that I would check if you are missing a part such as the metal element base washer inside or if you have a good air seal between your wand and heater cover
Can't think what else would cause that ATM. Besides drawing way too hard on it?
Hope you get it worked out because it should just rock, and I can even vape well on the lowest setting, 7 o clock?, on my SSV with the element height adjusted correctly, as per their Q&A section:
https://elev8glass.com/dwkb/silver-...-heater-is-not-working-on-the-ssv-sup-or-dbv/
 

shatter-reality

Well-Known Member
Maybe try pulling the rod up so there is the tiniest gap or so it's almost touching the glass.
After that I would check if you are missing a part such as the metal element base washer inside or if you have a good air seal between your wand and heater cover
Can't think what else would cause that ATM. Besides drawing way too hard on it?
Hope you get it worked out because it should just rock, and I can even vape well on the lowest setting, 7 o clock?, on my SSV with the element height adjusted correctly, as per their Q&A section:
https://elev8glass.com/dwkb/silver-...-heater-is-not-working-on-the-ssv-sup-or-dbv/
I can’t do anymore testing with it until I buy a new heater cover a bit down the road as mine went the path of broken glass.

The heater, from my understanding, was placed correctly. There’s no air leak on it. It is a second/third handed unit so I wonder if it might just need maintenance. Either way it’s a project for a bit further down the road thanks to the pandemic.
 

VapurrDo

Well-Known Member
I think the heating element is well over 500farenheit when it starts really glowing red because I can get combustion with a slow enough stream with the knob at "noon" or "1pm" on my buddha, and its barely starting to glow red a that point.
 

VapurrDo

Well-Known Member
I read a bit about incandescence, seems like the element, from when it starts to be red, to the max, is anywhere between 550 farenheit and 800-900 farenheit (probably less than that, my bet is 600-700)
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
I read a bit about incandescence, seems like the element, from when it starts to be red, to the max, is anywhere between 550 farenheit and 800-900 farenheit (probably less than that, my bet is 600-700)
400 +/- = 10 degree’s is the range to target? (CANNABIS)
 
ataxian,
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SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
I think the heating element is well over 500farenheit when it starts really glowing red because I can get combustion with a slow enough stream with the knob at "noon" or "1pm" on my buddha, and its barely starting to glow red a that point.
I've tried temping it with my IR gun but it doesn't read the temperature properly although I wouldn't doubt it could get that hot when cranked to max. I wish I had access to an IR camera, that would come in handy but they're not very cheap.
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT


My understanding is when it comes to heat just about most things are the same color at the same temps.
I had a hard time grasping that fact but there it is.
This chart shows the color of heat which is what we see not the object being heated.
🤔
Some may believe I completely live in different universe?
CANNABIS consumption is so CIVILIZED in a SILVER SURFER if your not afraid of completely leaving this planet?
 

badbee

Well-Known Member
Do the ceramic heaters in the SSV wear out or get tired with age? I just bought a used unit and can't get a good hit. At first the heater was too low and wouldn't stay up so I adjusted the bend in the wires underneath so it stays up. The core heats and goes to bright red on its' upper half, the top is about 1/4 inch below the top of the cover. That's as high as it will go. I'm experienced with finicky convection vapes and have tried hitting very slowly (and more rapidly). Even at full power and my slowest draw it just barely gives a whispy hit after multiple warm up hits.

Is there anything else I should try? I am going to do the ball mod but wanted to get a baseline before proceeding.
 

Vitolo

Vaporist
You can remove the heater cover (when unit is totally cool) and grasp the element... and see if it will
allow itself to be raised up some.
Warmup could take 5 minutes up to ten depending.
The element does not die, but the red hot part can eventually move toward the top of the element.. as opposed to being the entire top half of glow.
The heating element should be much closer to the top of HC than 1/4 inch.
Try again, to raise the element if you are willing.
While I figure you have done all of this, I mention it anyway.
Twist the element clockwise and counterclockwise as you attempt to lift it.
Try to further adjust the wires, any knots or bends to see if you can lift element at all.
ALSO... check the knob.......
See if the glass knob is restricting how far you can adjust the Heater.
It can be removed and then put on again, in a more optimal position (if it was restricted)
Element itself is very sturdy:
 

badbee

Well-Known Member
You can remove the heater cover (when unit is totally cool) and grasp the element... and see if it will
allow itself to be raised up some.
Warmup could take 5 minutes up to ten depending.
The element does not die, but the red hot part can eventually move toward the top of the element.. as opposed to being the entire top half of glow.
The heating element should be much closer to the top of HC than 1/4 inch.
Try again, to raise the element if you are willing.
While I figure you have done all of this, I mention it anyway.
Twist the element clockwise and counterclockwise as you attempt to lift it.
Try to further adjust the wires, any knots or bends to see if you can lift element at all.
ALSO... check the knob.......
See if the glass knob is restricting how far you can adjust the Heater.
It can be removed and then put on again, in a more optimal position (if it was restricted)
Element itself is very sturdy:
Thanks for the ideas. It started out 3/4 of inch below the top which didn't work even slightly (no wonder the previous owner wanted to sell it), I'll try to get it up to within an 1/8. Glass knob is out of position, currently starts at 9 o'clock, but still allows turning up high (6 o'clock). I'll have to pull harder to get it off for readjustment.

Thanks for that video, I thought the core would be more fragile than that. Good to know.
 
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