jabba

Well-Known Member
I won't post a picture as it is the same as others provided, but I just received my Dynavap Gifts. I received a bronze-colored 2018 or 2019 M, along with the green DynaCase, and 7 fin tip. I signed up with the thought that I may follow through with the purchase -- I was interested but not completely committed financially on 12/7.

It was a great gesture by Dynavap. I appreciate the gift and will consider that when I make my next purchase.

To the first person or two who suggested the tips might be QC fails. I think that may be true. I see that mine can support a full bowl, but doesn't have two more grooves -- instead, it has one more groove and it doesn't look deep enough.

In any regard, I didn't pay for it. I get a chance to see their future product in beta, Dynavap gets to gauge interest in an actual production model of the 7 fin, along with garnering good will. There is no downside.

Ok, maybe there was one downside. Dynavap sent me the parcel via 2nd Day USPS. I just got it an hour ago. Kudos for USPS getting there before Christmas, but damn, it shipped on December 8th.

In all, very happy.
Awesome! Good for you. .... And your post renews my hope that I could still get a package. I figured at this point things look pretty unlikely.
 

almost there

Well-Known Member
Awesome! Good for you. .... And your post renews my hope that I could still get a package. I figured at this point things look pretty unlikely.
This is the worst I've ever experienced with USPS delays so hang tight it'll get to you eventually. I received my 7 fins yesterday, my BF order took almost 3 weeks to get to me after shipping so it's really a matter of time.

I'm actually very delighted the 7 fin tips are oversized, it'll go well with the stems I have that have oversized bores. I hate having to wrap hemp fiber around the tip to get it to stay in place, it's never quite stable enough.
 

jabba

Well-Known Member
This is the worst I've ever experienced with USPS delays so hang tight it'll get to you eventually. I received my 7 fins yesterday, my BF order took almost 3 weeks to get to me after shipping so it's really a matter of time.

I'm actually very delighted the 7 fin tips are oversized, it'll go well with the stems I have that have oversized bores. I hate having to wrap hemp fiber around the tip to get it to stay in place, it's never quite stable enough.
I've had the same experiences lately with USPS. That said, I did get a small package from Colorado to Kansas this week in about 3 days total...shipped first class
 

hinglemccringleberry

Well-Known Member
Just gave my dynavaps a bath for the first time in months! Just realized I don’t have any hemp oil to lubricate my orings like I always do. Can I / Has anyone used sesame oil to lubricate their rings?
I've had mine for 4 years now and have never lubed the rings and the rings are in brand new shape..
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
regarding tip sizes and fittage in stems...

I discovered some time ago that the Ti and SS tips were slightly different. I used gradiated habd reamers to set the fitage on my stems do that the one is not too tight, and the other is not too loose, no problemo

Then comes the 20M with a even slightly larger tip Inhave one of those tips so I can fit to a custoner that has a 20m tip, but the older SS will be slightly loose, and the older Ti looser than I would allow on my stems

Now the even larger 77 fin tip.... come on, really? Hopefully DV will get better tolarance on future runs. But for the current one you all say that they are too much for the wood stems. I have a few stems that are larger than even the 20M, and so may fit...but cannot see buying a 77$ tip to find out. Now, if someone has an extra to loan, I would pay shipping both ways Im not chomping at the bit here...just a thought.

have a good holiday week
blessings danielj
I missed this earlier @danielj - I use a simpler method to determining 'correct' sizing for the VC port.
First of all, I wanted to know if the standard bodies were in fact 5/16" or 8mm. Two microns difference! Well, I decided to push a 5/16" drill-bit through the '18M body to see if I could do it ...by hand. I did it and the only thing that came out was a heavy gray sludge that was caked on the walls. I had thought this was scale but I was corrected. What was missing in the heavy gray powered residue was metal shavings. Based on that fact alone I think I am safe to say that VC bodies/stems are 8mm ID with an unknown +/- tolerance.
This tells you one thing; the OD of the tip interface cannot be bigger than a hair under 8mm which 5/16" is a good two hairs under for the small size of the tip interface. However, this is still not the determining factor. That proud crown on the tip is ingenious. It becomes the fulcrum of any tilt in the tip that can be realized. It is in fact the o-rings that 'square' the installation. It is the o-ring that allows tipping in the stem. As a matter of fact, it is rolled o-rings that keep a tip tilted to one side when they leave their respective groove. If you tear up o-rings on a regular basis, they probably fit loosely on the tips. And these tips will also display a lot more tipping due to the extra clearance at the o-ring, not the very end of the tip.

@danielj - there is a lot packed in that but I will say that reaming for 8mm is correct. If someone has a rolled o-ring, it will be a battle getting the tip on. My '20M had a real problem with rolled o-rings - killed 3 wooden stems! The o-rings get out of their grooves installing and removing the tip. Twisting in tips and making sure the o-ring turns with the tip is the only solution I have found. I sold my '20M because it killed 3 good stems. Cursed!
 

MM..Food

vape enthusiast
Hey fellow vaporists, I've read that people mostly swap tips on their dynavaps but what are your experiences with swapping caps?

I have a OmniXL and a 2020 M that I use with the Apollo2. I haven't swapped around the tips yet but I have put the cap from the Omni on the 2020 M and it have been great! The 2020 M with its own cap the bowl would last 5ish hits but since swapping to the Omnis cap it has a lot denser hits and is a solid 3 hits if I don't want to push it.

This makes my 2020 M feel on par withl the Omni for vapor production. Is airflow difference between the captive cap and the non-captive cap really that big? For those that have both what do you prefer?
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Oh my @Pre Stoned - that is a mouthful. using induction heaters, these caps are as different as night and day. I've posted about this on Reddit and so have others. It has something to do with the iron content in the cap's metal. I think those old "hot" caps are a thing of the past. Take care of it if you like it. If you don't, pass it to someone who does... me for instance LOL I'll buy ya a 2020 cap as a replacement. I have a cap from 2019 that is seriously hot. Delivers excellent draws!
 

TheThriftDrifter

Land of the long vapor cloud
Hey fellow vaporists, I've read that people mostly swap tips on their dynavaps but what are your experiences with swapping caps?

I have a OmniXL and a 2020 M that I use with the Apollo2. I haven't swapped around the tips yet but I have put the cap from the Omni on the 2020 M and it have been great! The 2020 M with its own cap the bowl would last 5ish hits but since swapping to the Omnis cap it has a lot denser hits and is a solid 3 hits if I don't want to push it.

This makes my 2020 M feel on par withl the Omni for vapor production. Is airflow difference between the captive cap and the non-captive cap really that big? For those that have both what do you prefer?

My experience has been that the captive cap seems to increase air flow.

Regular cap = mouthpull styles. My go to when hitting it straight.

Captive cap = Open port. My main squeeze on a water piece.
 

grogazola

Well-Known Member
Sold my 18Ms and about to pick up a couple of hydravongs and a couple of stocking stuffers from Planet of the Vapes. Do members of the FC community get a discount code at PotV? It’s cool if they don’t, just figure if you don’t ask you’ll never know.....
 
grogazola,

TommyDee

Vaporitor
And caps don't fit the same on every tip. I almost lost a favored cap from my ti tip. I've got them ovalized to a precision hold to allow a specific magnet to pull the caps. These are my cap-chilling bungs to rush the first draw cooling click. It does amazing things for the second heating in the IH. If the load combusts, the IH isn't adjusted right... too hot.

20201101_185450.jpg
 

MM..Food

vape enthusiast
@TommyDee Thanks for the info, I didn't know there was actually a slight difference in the material. I'll have to search for that post on reddit. Also that cap chiller is so neat! Did ya make it yourself? Definitely gonna keep the "hot" cap. Sad to hear they are the old versions now.
 
MM..Food,
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TommyDee

Vaporitor
Here's my post @Pre Stoned - https://www.reddit.com/r/inductionheaters/comments/jbzdmx
This is VapOven's most excellent video post - https://www.reddit.com/r/inductionheaters/comments/kdl7ht
The chiller is put together with 2 each 5/16" [8mm] N52 magnets. It is enough to pull a cap and provide a 'cool mass'. No special magnetization required. The wood is a Flowering Quince shrub that shrinks as it cures. I drilled the hole wet and the wood shrank around the magnets. This species is particularly good at girding things without splitting.
 

danielj

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
I missed this earlier @danielj - I use a simpler method to determining 'correct' sizing for the VC port.
First of all, I wanted to know if the standard bodies were in fact 5/16" or 8mm. Two microns difference! Well, I decided to push a 5/16" drill-bit through the '18M body to see if I could do it ...by hand. I did it and the only thing that came out was a heavy gray sludge that was caked on the walls. I had thought this was scale but I was corrected. What was missing in the heavy gray powered residue was metal shavings. Based on that fact alone I think I am safe to say that VC bodies/stems are 8mm ID with an unknown +/- tolerance.
This tells you one thing; the OD of the tip interface cannot be bigger than a hair under 8mm which 5/16" is a good two hairs under for the small size of the tip interface. However, this is still not the determining factor. That proud crown on the tip is ingenious. It becomes the fulcrum of any tilt in the tip that can be realized. It is in fact the o-rings that 'square' the installation. It is the o-ring that allows tipping in the stem. As a matter of fact, it is rolled o-rings that keep a tip tilted to one side when they leave their respective groove. If you tear up o-rings on a regular basis, they probably fit loosely on the tips. And these tips will also display a lot more tipping due to the extra clearance at the o-ring, not the very end of the tip.

@danielj - there is a lot packed in that but I will say that reaming for 8mm is correct. If someone has a rolled o-ring, it will be a battle getting the tip on. My '20M had a real problem with rolled o-rings - killed 3 wooden stems! The o-rings get out of their grooves installing and removing the tip. Twisting in tips and making sure the o-ring turns with the tip is the only solution I have found. I sold my '20M because it killed 3 good stems. Cursed!
bro, you do know your stuff! yes its that crown that matters reg fittage and yes, folks need to twist insert/remove and keep an eye on the o rings. They WILL get loose and roll.

At the maching stage I stop at 5/16 ( a true measured lean 5/16 bit, dont trust the sizing on drill bits...they are all over the place. For fittage, I use a series of hand reamers to sneak up on the ID..., and also use a 17-18 era ti and ss tip to test. These are new tips, never used, and Inreplace the o rings when neccesary. It appears I will need to get an extra 20m tip fir testing, and (grrr) a 7 fin as well

speaking of those high temp o rings...been getting them from DV Dont know that I ever figured out their size so as to buy in bulk from O rings etc Do you happen to know the size? I have several dif sizes of the condenser x rings which zi use on my xxxl custom condenser/mp setups for my poor mans omni etc
 

JJ785

Well-Known Member
My experience has been that the captive cap seems to increase air flow.

Regular cap = mouthpull styles. My go to when hitting it straight.

Captive cap = Open port. My main squeeze on a water piece.
So the slight increased airflow of the 20M (compared to the preceding M's) is due solely to the captive cap and not the tip?

I bought a 20 tip recently, without capitve cap, and have been using it with the regular cap of my 19M. Cannot say I notice much difference airflow-wise between the 20 and 19 tips with regular cap, into water or not into water. Incidentally, I feel the 19 has just a bit better performance, as has been discussed.
 
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TheThriftDrifter

Land of the long vapor cloud
So the slight increased airflow of the 20M (compared to the preceding M's) is due solely to the captive cap and not the tip?

I bought a 20 tip recently, without capitve cap, and have been using it with the regular cap of my 19M. Cannot say I notice much difference airflow-wise between the 20 and 19 tips with regular cap, into water or not into water. Incidentally, I feel the 19 has just a bit better performance, as has been discussed.

I have a spare regular cap that I use on my 2020 when I want it to hit more like my 2019. Wish I still had my 2018 to compare.
 

vandalizedbythelotus

Well-Known Member
I have the middle one and it is almost as good as my '19-M in regard to airflow. The Ti tip is a very close second.

I also prefer the cylindrical contact or near contact with the cap. That lack of contact patch really changed the 2020 M tip profile.

I've seen that shallow cut on several 5-fin Ti tips too. Not a fan.
right? i think the feedback over the years has been pretty clear with the community asking for more OPEN airflow...

the 20M and this new TI tip's (if this is the new standard) restriction because of the shallow carving has a negative impact on performance IME with a normal stem/condenser utilizing the airport.

i could get nice performance with it from a carbless stem and MTL draws a-la 18M tips.
perhaps it's better with a captive cap?

edit:
i like that it only has 2 CCD/screen grooves instead of 3. less of a residue trap and no real loss in function.
also like the larger ID in the fin segment. altho it can't seal 100% with the omni condenser it can make for more turbulence inside the tip.
maybe they are planning larger ID condensers as well?
 
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Siebter

Less soul, more mind
Thanks for the info, I didn't know there was actually a slight difference in the material.

Actually that's quite a bit debatable. I own a few generations of caps and they all behave pretty much the same. There are many *many* variables when it comes to the performance of a Dynavap setup, too many to reduce them to the cap. In my opinion.
 

stark1

Lonesome Planet
Merry Christmas Dance GIF by SportsManias


A big SHOUT-out! ☄️
to @vaporculture

for sharing/caring/sending a $77.77-fin tip, in time for Christmas! Thank you
for
Your Dyna-Generosity! 🙏

Nice match with an Assassin?
 
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