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Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Do you think there's any risk to the finish long term using the corner magnets like this?

I think it depends upon whether you are generally rough or careful when you use things. I see the cases in various conditions when they come in for repair. Most look brand new, but a few look like they were stored in a tackle box on a speed boat. :haw: The finish should be fine if all you are doing is resting the Dynavap on the corner of the FD and lifting the Dynavap back up to use it. The FDs are pretty tough devices in general - about a year ago I accidentally put one in the washing machine with a load of laundry (D'Oh! :doh:) and it continued to work perfectly after I dried it out - but the finish isn't impervious and will undoubtedly show the effects of use and wear over time.

Hope that helps...?

Updated to add: If anyone is interested in a sturdier case, @Monsoon discovered a very affordable camera case that fits the FD almost perfectly and offers some nice additional protection:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DYHBNDS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The small bump in the case even accommodates the external switch. :tup:
 
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M3 Element

Well-Known Member
Took me a day or so to clue in to this, but they work great.

Do you think there's any risk to the finish long term using the corner magnets like this?

Anyone wanting a surface magnet on their flux could just superglue a dynamag on the lid, if they really want it. That's what I did with my PS mini.
Did your PSM not come with a magnet? Pretty sure they all do so I’m a little confused as to why you needed to add one.
 
M3 Element,

martinstraka8282

Well-Known Member
I think it depends upon whether you are generally rough or careful when you use things. I see the cases in various conditions when they come in for repair. Most look brand new, but a few look like they were stored in a tackle box on a speed boat. :haw: The finish should be fine if all you are doing is resting the Dynavap on the corner of the FD and lifting the Dynavap back up to use it. The FDs are pretty tough devices in general - about a year ago I accidentally put one in the washing machine with a load of laundry (D'Oh! :doh:) and it continued to work perfectly after I dried it out - but the finish isn't impervious and will undoubtedly show the effects of use and wear over time.

Hope that helps...?

Updated to add: If anyone is interested in a sturdier case, @Monsoon discovered a very affordable camera case that fits the FD almost perfectly and offers some nice additional protection:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DYHBNDS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The small bump in the case even accommodates the external switch. :tup:
Sounds about what I thought you'd say as the finish does seem strong. I have faith the finish will hold up based on the way I treat my stuff, but thought you might have some first hand experience with seeing visible wear only from the practice of parking a Vapcap.

Good suggestion on the case!
Maybe an adhesive backed cork dot from the grocery store can protect the finish and show the parking location, @martinstraka8282 .
Good suggestion, I might try this out if I can find cork adhesive in black.
Did your PSM not come with a magnet? Pretty sure they all do so I’m a little confused as to why you needed to add one.
It did come with a magnet, but on day 1 (Well, day 8 after having to wait for a working adapter) I broke one of my cheap DH Gate glass stem from it falling off my PS mini. I found the included magnet was just too small and weak to keep it stable enough for my liking, especially compared to a dynamag I had sitting around.
 
martinstraka8282,
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mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
@martinstraka8282 : Not sure the magnets will work well through a piece of cork, even a thin one - I see a repeat of your other experience. If you are really worried about this, I'd suggest a small piece of kapton tape:

41IUahMv4gL._SL1000_.jpg


It protects to 200°C or so, and is under $5 per roll. It's the same stuff the thermal fuse is wrapped in to insolate and isolate the fuse from the coil. You will only need about .02 cents worth...
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Oh, but 8 natural cork dots symmetrically located about a little black box is so much more mysterious. What were you planning on doing about feet anyway?

Do be careful of the temps of the cap when choosing a material. Plastics won't do well. And if nothing else, glue a proper magnet to the fire button!
 
TommyDee,

martinstraka8282

Well-Known Member
Oh, but 8 natural cork dots symmetrically located about a little black box is so much more mysterious. What were you planning on doing about feet anyway?

Do be careful of the temps of the cap when choosing a material. Plastics won't do well. And if nothing else, glue a proper magnet to the fire button!
That's not a bad idea, add a little contrast. The feet I just left as the included bumpers and they work well.

Ultimately, I think I will take my chances and just park it straight on the flux.
 
martinstraka8282,
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TommyDee

Vaporitor
Oh, Fluxer, I was thinking Flix.

...and of all things they make black nickle plated magnets, just not in diametrical poles.

Have you though of a diamond arrangement of traditional neodymium magnets neatly glued to the box?

... aha - gold plated thin 1/4" dots; <> arrange 4 to center the VC. We need to start a new trend since diametrically magnetized magnets are so few. And 4 of these is the same as one normal one. Okay, I'm talking myself into a batch :clap: Gimmegimme

https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D41G-N52
 
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Mono Loco

Well-Known Member
... aha - gold plated thin 1/4" dots; <> arrange 4 to center the VC. We need to start a new trend since diametrically magnetized magnets are so few. And 4 of these is the same as one normal one.
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D41G-N52

Yeh, they're perty! What are your thought about using the -sh magnet ... the -sh representing "super high temperature" and being rated for 302-degrees vs the standard 179-degrees before losing magnetic pull force. The -sh are only available in strength N42, not 52, so thicker ones would be needed to get more pull strength.
 
Mono Loco,

TommyDee

Vaporitor
I'd say if you can wear out the N52 buttons with heat, you deserve a prize :party:

I'm stuck on this 3-4 magnet arrangement thing. <> 4 gold dots appeals to me :spliff:
 
TommyDee,

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
I'd say if you can wear out the N52 buttons with heat, you deserve a prize :party:

I'm stuck on this 3-4 magnet arrangement thing. <> 4 gold dots appeals to me :spliff:

@TommyDee
Curious your opinions on the reliability of the on/off relays or clickers on IH heaters that require one to hold the DV down while heating, like an Apollo. I wondered if the DIY ones that you just insert the DV, then press an “on” button, as perhaps more reliable over time? I only have the SKJ IH, which has the coil sensor, so I’ve never seen the real ones. Thanks
 
RustyOldNail,

TommyDee

Vaporitor
You should ask the makers that one. There is a lot of heat involved with the cap. This has to be dealt within the design elements. I'm sure that by now those are the trade secrets.
Soon I will find out how well wooden cups last. I'm still in the camp for no VC depression switch, or a parallel alternate fire switch like the Flix will be doing.

The only thing that gets hot on my IH's is the bottom of the vial. Damn hot!
 

Mono Loco

Well-Known Member
I'd say if you can wear out the N52 buttons with heat, you deserve a prize
LOL. I'm just quoting the mfg. specs. We know the VapCaps get over 179-degrees, but ... and I guess this is the biggie ... they do not retain their heat for long. I enjoy the show "Forged in Fire" and some bladesmiths on the show use the traditional method of determining when their heat treatment is "done" ... by heating the steel until it no longer attracts a magnet ... before they quench the blade. So, heat can change the grain structure of steel and the magnetic properties.

I do wonder if heavy users have noticed their DynaMags on their DynaStashes, or the magnets on their PSMs, getting weaker over time. Without introducing any heat over a magnet's ratings, I believe the magnets should retain their strength for ... geez, I dunno' ... a LONG time. But if heat is an enemy, I wonder to what degree?
 
Mono Loco,

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Some magnets just loose their magnetism temporarily with heat but Neodymium isn't so lucky. I have some N42's on my 3D printer. They get pretty warm quite often. They still function. In the case of VC, the heat doesn't soak the magnet either. Just a surface shock and a gradient to the cooler housing. The actual heat-load is the clicker which makes the cap a heat-shield.
 
TommyDee,

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
FWIW, my mid-thickness 16mm insert*, which has 1.6mm walls, is the same insert (same source, same part) used in the PSM, but trimmed to the 19mm height I need. The two heaters use different components and a different number of coil windings, however, so they likely perform a bit differently. I don’t own a PSM so I can’t offer any more than that, but some in this thread have used both or own both, so you may get a better answer from them when they see the question.

*For completeness, my default 16mm insert is made from thinner walled 16mm OD / 1.2mm wall stock, as I think that works better with the Flux. If you order a FD with a 16mm glass insert, this is the one I use.

Finally, the last of the Flux 16mm glass insert offerings is the 16mm Thick Walled, with 2mm thick walls.

The same three 16mm wall thicknesses are also available in the carbon fiber inserts.
 

flammy

Well-Known Member
Anyone know what size coil most resembles the heating pattern of the Port Side Mini?

My first instinct would be to compare it to the 16mm thick walled glass insert. It's been a while since I've used my PSM but I think if you played with the coil a bit on the 16mm TW, then you can get an experience similar to the PSM.

I have a 16mm TW and a 15mm CF and consider them to be low/medium and medium/high respectively given the options to adjust coil. I really enjoy both but I will say that the heating profile on the 15mm w/o lowered coil was too aggressive for my taste but I know that some really do prefer that type of heating.

The fact that you can change the coil height is very underrated and allows for quite a bit of flexibility. I might have time to do some side by side comparisons this weekend. If so, I will most certainly report back.
 

Baron23

Well-Known Member
I'm currently building Flux Deluxes for people who got on the waiting list on or anytime before: August 14, 2019.

@mr_cfromcali - well, move it along, boyo...I'm 29 Aug! hahaha

You know I'm just joking but I am starting to get excited.

I plan to buy the full up FD and look forward to getting my ordering email.

Take care, I have followed this since the very early days of your initial conversations with other technical board members on the design and wow...its really came along well, yeah?

Great job and this seems to be the one device thread in which I have never seen anybody pissed off. Now THAT is one hell of an accomplishment on FC! haha

Cheers
 

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Hi all,

I learned some things yesterday about a topic of great importance to some of you:

International shipping and the Flux Deluxe (and upcoming Flix), in the midst of the chaos caused by present worldwide pandemic


In short, it's kinda of a hot mess at the moment. Please pull up a chair.

:popcorn:

I use First Class International Mail to ship internationally, specifically the "First Class Package International" service. This is the most affordable international shipping method I can find that offers tracking, and while it's not fast, it's typically "fast enough" for most people. A Flux Deluxe sent to the UK, EU, AUS, NZ, etc. via First Class Package International typically cost US$25 to ship and in pre-pandemic times (aka, "the before time" :rolleyes:) would take 10-15 business days to arrive. In contrast, the cheapest Priority Mail option for a package the same size and weight as the Flux Deluxe is US$40, and a package sent via Priority typically reaches its destination in 6-10 business days - a bit quicker, but definitely not overnight. It's still your basic "shorter time = more money" equation, and since the price difference is significant, most people would rather save the extra coin.

The thing about Priority mail, however, is that it IS prioritized for quicker transit, and that prioritization is a big reason why it's faster than First Class mail. This distinction didn't make a huge difference in pre-pandemic times, but oh boy, have things changed! First Class International Package Service is no longer an attractive option for shipping, at least at present. There's currently a HUGE international backlog for First Class Package International, in large part because so many countries have closed their borders to international travel. Packages that use the First Class International Package Service typically travel as extra cargo on commercial passenger airlines, and those planes aren't flying! So a lot of mail is stuck or moving v e r y slowly, and sometimes in weird ways.

The page linked below was posted last week (April 29) on stamps.com, the United States Postal Service's storefront and retail shipping site, detailing the situation and delays getting stuff from the US to virtually every non-North American destination. Take a look to see how service to your country may be impacted:

https://blog.stamps.com/coronavirus-updates/ -- be sure to scroll, as the individual details for each country are listed lower down on the page.

Unfortunately, the situation for this cheaper international mail service doesn't look to get better until countries lift their travel suspensions and international air travel starts back up. At this point it seems to be anyone's guess as to when that will occur. :rolleyes:

This leaves international customers with some rather poor choices:

1. Use the First Class Package International service to save money while knowing in advance that it could take a very long time to reach you. The US$25 price still makes this service the cheapest, but the delivery time is completely unknown, and could be 6-8 weeks and perhaps even longer.

2. Pay the extra money to send your Fluxer product via Priority Mail, which will typically be US$40. This is still the cheapest alternate option, but...damn, that's a lot of money for shipping. :( For the sake of completeness, the price for sending a Flux Deluxe via a true priority service like DHL starts at US$110. :o FedEx, UPS, and similar third party services fall somewhere in between these extremes. There doesn't seem to be any good answer at the moment. :shrug:

3. Decide to hold your order until the international shipping situation improves. It isn't as fun as ordering, but it may be a lot more fun than spending a bunch of money just to watch the package sit in Brussels for a month. Or to be held in San Francisco waiting for flights to Australia to resume, a situation one customer is presently enduring. :bang:

So that's the scoop. I have a few international orders in my current batch, and if you are one of these customers I'll be reaching out to you to ask you what you'd like to do. :shrug:

As someone who is trying to get a new product ready for market, this is yet another wrinkle to contend with. :hmm: I'll have updates on shipping the Flix internationally as we get closer to its actual launch, but this yet another way in which the present situation sucks for all of us. :bang:

This too will pass, but it's clearly going to take some time.

Thanks again for your support and interest.:clap::nod: :tup:

Stay safe!
:leaf:
 
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flammy

Well-Known Member
@flammy - You said a mouthful on the coil position in relation to the VC. It is no different than where you place the flame.

Correlation between coil and flame position is something that I'm aware of. Not really sure what you're trying to say here....

Did I misspeak?
 
flammy,

TommyDee

Vaporitor
@flammy - nono, you said exactly the right thing. Your last paragraph about positioning is spot on.

I made a very hot IH this last weekend and even with a large forgiving coil, I could tell the difference in 1mm movements within the coil. Not from drawing on the VC but by timing the click. My '18-M cap is very consistent. And although it is time consuming, letting the tip cool between tests is crucial. Very slow process. Anyway, I went from 6 seconds to 12 seconds by moving less than 3mm.

One tip for testing - test just the cap. It cools quicker and covers nearly 85% of the load.
 
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