Discontinued Utopia Desktop Herbal & Oil Vaporizer

THC SCIENTIFIC

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There is a way to over come the herb bowl I had one made for the DuctionH20, the bowl did its job but the heater didn't so I'm going to re look at that coming few weeks.
 

DieHard

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I had a good round of testing today. I had 2 fellow vapers help with the testing. The vapor production was right on time. However the flavor seemed to suffer a bit after the body of the unit became well heat soaked. We even had 2 combustion events. Once with a dramatic cherry blowout into the bubbler. This is not entirely a bad thing. I think that better heater control will tame that. Has there been any thought of adding a feedback (thermocouple) to have the heater not overrun the temps. I tried again with oil once the unit was heat-soaked just to try but had no luck.
 

THC SCIENTIFIC

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I had a good round of testing today. I had 2 fellow vapers help with the testing. The vapor production was right on time. However the flavor seemed to suffer a bit after the body of the unit became well heat soaked. We even had 2 combustion events. Once with a dramatic cherry blowout into the bubbler. This is not entirely a bad thing. I think that better heater control will tame that. Has there been any thought of adding a feedback (thermocouple) to have the heater not overrun the temps. I tried again with oil once the unit was heat-soaked just to try but had no luck.

What was the setting on the heater ? And was it on that setting all the time?
 
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DieHard

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Never more than 1-1.5 mm past the "on". Once it was hot I had it turned lower than the "on" line and still charring the load. More testing today.:science:
 

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Never more than 1-1.5 mm past the "on". Once it was hot I had it turned lower than the "on" line and still charring the load. More testing today.:science:

Ya that's because the heaters is configured wrong. Working on a different heater.


That heater is 150 watts at 50 volts and that controller is not precise enough.
 

TommydCat

Well-Known Member
I've tried very, very hard but can never actually taste the screen in the airpath--and they're so easy to clean that it seems like an OK compromise even for an all-glass pathway.
My take on this focuses on the residue that collects on the screen. Glass is so much easier to get clean whereas there's always going to be a bit of previous matter on a SS gauze unless you put effort into it (or rotate screens). I don't really ever "taste" the screen itself, but I do think it contributes to a bit of aftertaste that gets combined into the current load. For me, it's a pretty trivial matter because stronger tastes of the same thing cancels it all out, but I will swap cartridges/ELBs/stems and sometimes rigs if I switch up strains. Overall, it's more of a "clean" thing than it is a particular manufacturing material.

For those that can actually taste metal in the air path, my condolences for your curse.
 

DieHard

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I can get some really tasty hits with flower before the heat builds up in the glass. It is very hard to control the heat to keep those flavorful hits going once the glass gets hot. I have gotten some hits that definately rival my EVO and Herb Nail as far as flavor and vapor density. The "party mode" of the bowl piece was very messy and hard to both load and unload, and the WP gets a lot of ABV inside. With better heater control this thing will be a beast!
 

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I can get some really tasty hits with flower before the heat builds up in the glass. It is very hard to control the heat to keep those flavorful hits going once the glass gets hot. I have gotten some hits that definately rival my EVO and Herb Nail as far as flavor and vapor density. The "party mode" of the bowl piece was very messy and hard to both load and unload, and the WP gets a lot of ABV inside. With better heater control this thing will be a beast!

Heater control is our next bet, working on a new heater and housing, this will give you more control as the new heater will be designed for 110v instead of 50 volts.
 

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The concept is sound. It just needs the fine tuning. I am planning to use a k-couple with my Fluke meter to see if I can get better control with some feedback.

If I'm not mistaken your heater has a little white part on the cord that allows to see the voltage being applied, maybe you can find tune it that way.
 

DieHard

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Odyssey testing:
Ok. Not really able to use the thermocouple in any useful way. But I do have my Fluke meter hooked up to the heater to monitor voltage. My first hit was at 50% power (not on the dial but @24v). I got just barely a hint of flavor and no visible vapor. I increased it to 31v, allowed a few minutes to heat up and tried it. It was like putting a lighter to a bowl. Immediate combustion. It reads 27V well below the "on" on the controller (just for reference )
@27v I got charring in the first pull.
Here's a teaser pic. I'll get a video going when I get it dialed in.
vEK5gln.jpg
 

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@DieHard I just has a quick meeting with our engineer and he has all the parts to make the new heaters for your controller, as well as the new heaters for the Core.

I will keep you updated once they are done and ready to be shipped to you for testing.

The heaters for the Core will need further testing and that will be done by @SamuraiSam


Also next week we will be discussing a new way to do oils for the Odyssey and will keep you guys informed.

@DieHard also want to point out that you are running the heaters at half power and that is to much with 150 watts, running it at 25%-35% power with the new heaters should be enough.
 

DieHard

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@DieHard I just has a quick meeting with our engineer and he has all the parts to make the new heaters for your controller, as well as the new heaters for the Core.

I will keep you updated once they are done and ready to be shipped to you for testing.

The heaters for the Core will need further testing and that will be done by @SamuraiSam


Also next week we will be discussing a new way to do oils for the Odyssey and will keep you guys informed.

@DieHard also want to point out that you are running the heaters at half power and that is to much with 150 watts, running it at 25%-35% power with the new heaters should be enough.
By 50% (half power) I meant that my meter was reading 24v. Not 50% on the control knob.
 
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By 50% (half power) I meant that my meter was reading 24v. Not 50% on the control knob.

24v is half power at about 75 watts on the heater you go and going any higher it would not work as combustion would occur as that heater you have was for 50volts at 150 watts. So making the new heaters at 150 watts for 110 volts means running at 24 volts would essentially be running at 50 watts.

Im still not sure if i want to do 150 watts at 110v or 100 watts at 110v giving you more room on the lower end to play with. Make sense? Reason why we are testing.
 

DieHard

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24v is half power at about 75 watts on the heater you go and going any higher it would not work as combustion would occur as that heater you have was for 50volts at 150 watts. So making the new heaters at 150 watts for 110 volts means running at 24 volts would essentially be running at 50 watts.

Im still not sure if i want to do 150 watts at 110v or 100 watts at 110v giving you more room on the lower end to play with. Make sense? Reason why we are testing.
Yes! More flavor to be had on the lower end, I think.
 

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Yes! More flavor to be had on the lower end, I think.

For the second heater we will be doing 150 watts to make sure it has enough power to get the job done, once that is done we will move a step down to a 100 watt heater and will source a controller that is a little bit more sensitive and allow user to go down to 5v or 10v which would essentially be around 15 watts.

I might be doing the math wrong but its something to discuss at another time. For now lets wait and see what the next version does.
 
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@DieHard we where successful in making one heater at 150watts for 110v, now want to make a few more to have as back up, once we get all of them made ill ship you the new heater for testing.

You should be able to run it at 30% which will give you about 40-45 watts total power, heat up time might be a bit slow but it should do the trick and not have any combustion. Since you are less then the 75 watts you where using with the current heater.
 
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