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Thinking of getting a concentrate exclusive pen

TwistedGray

Well-Known Member
EDITED

I currently use my Arizer Air for dry herb and will pancake a piece of shatter or muddle wax into the herb. However, I would be interested in purchasing a concentrate exclusive pen.

What I like about the Air:
1. Simplicity of use (turn on, select temp, wait, done)
2. A few stem options are available
3. Flavor is great

What I don't care about:
1. Battery life
2. Heating time
3. Portability (Although, it should fit in my pocket)

Budget is $0-100
 
Last edited:

hippy tribe

New Member
thisthingrips works really well.. roil dab pen. my favorite if i'm vaping distillates like in my picture, especially good when moving around

good for shatter and wax too which is what i must of the time

http://imgur.com/a/GIeTi
GIeTi
 
hippy tribe,

nosmoking

Just so Dab HAppy!
Puffco Plus on a mod...its just about the best way you can treat your concentrates...think about what they deserve! Lmao, seriously though this Tangie crumble taste like tangerines and does the job quite well and quickly!
 

PPN

Volute of Vapor
EDITED

I currently use my Arizer Air for dry herb and will pancake a piece of shatter or muddle wax into the herb. However, I would be interested in purchasing a concentrate exclusive pen.

What I like about the Air:
1. Simplicity of use (turn on, select temp, wait, done)
2. A few stem options are available
3. Flavor is great

What I don't care about:
1. Battery life
2. Heating time
3. Portability (Although, it should fit in my pocket)

Budget is $0-100
I think you misunderstood some small things about wax pens, first there is habitually no heating time with this devices (sometimes a very short pre-heat time with donut attys) and there is no stems (if you think something similar to the E-Nano stems or Arizer Air stems). Most (and maybe all) wax pens taste great on the beginning and taste degrade after some use, you can clean them but it is difficult to get them back to new. Although there is some new attys rebuildable like the Divine Tribe V3 or the Dabstorm 2.0... not totally ready imo..

The better actually would be to stick with a cheap Evolve and to buy a bunch of QDC&Donut attys if you want to get in the concentrate portable&stealth vapor world. Its big brother the Evolve Plus is nice cause it get a larger chamber, bigger battery and wax storage compartment. Like the Cerum from Yocan too (similar to the Evolve Plus but using ceramic only and you need a mod like @Melting Pot mentionned before me).

Although most are pretty similar, just avoid the old wick fiber glass system, and pick one and report!
Good luck!
 

2clicker

Observer
i vote for the Divine Tribe v2.5 or 2.7 powered by an iStick Pico. (about $65 total)
once you program set the TCR value, its good to go. I haven't had to mess with it. it just works.

ive been thinking about trying the DT coils, but after reading why Uwell wont make ceramic coils im finding it hard to do so.

your thoughts?

@herbivore21... id like to know what you think as well.

so i found this info on another forum and thought i would share here. i imagine this goes for any ceramic including popular choices like the ceramic donuts and FC-2000. it does make me wonder about ceramic coils/wicks and their safety. id like to hear some thoughts from others on this.

this info comes from UWELL the popular tank and RDA mfg.

"The Truth and Science behind Ceramic Coils

Customers have asked why Uwell doesn’t makes ceramic coils since the ceramic coil has a longer life compared with the Crown 2 coil and some ceramic coils even have better taste.

The article followed contains some researches and analysis of how ceramic coils affect vapers’ health and it may help to answer the question.

Uwell realizes the short life of the Crown 2 coil and we are developing coils to taste better and last longer. The latest version has increased life time and is now on the market. The good news is that there is positive response.

Figure 1 shows three kinds of ceramic coils on the market (#1, #2, and #3 stands for three different brands, respectively).

For #1, there is a layer of cotton between the ceramic and the coil. This design is lower in strength and makes the ceramic fragile. For example, the ceramic coil breaks apart when pinched and tiny powders fall off and stick onto the cotton. It is also hard to distinguish the cotton and the ceramic material since they are both white. In the case of #2 and #3, the ceramic material and the coil are heated up together to be made into one piece. However, the melting point of the coil is lower than the ceramic material so this causes the surface of the coil to be loose and porous. This makes the coil have low durability, is fragile, and has powders falling off.


1j8fte.jpg


Figure 2 shows partial end surface microstructure of #1, #2, and #3.

All three ceramic coils appear translucent with a glasslike exterior. Visible light can be reflected and scattered by pores inside the ceramic material. This is what makes it a translucent surface. The ceramic coil is made from silica similar to glass. Therefore, the ceramic coil appears as a glasslike surface. Many impurities can be seen at a magnification of 100X from a microscope and they appear as black spots. The glasslike particles are not uniform and appear to be uneven and chaotic. The tiny glass pieces have sharp surfaces that can scratch the trachea and alveoli when used. The black spots could also be unrefined toxic material that could have impurities.


2dj8i94.jpg


Figure 3 shows partial cross section surface microstructure of #1, #2 and #3.

After breaking the material for the cross section, we can see glasslike particles with sharp surfaces. The glasslike particles are clearly visible at the magnification of 100X.


35d5kcx.jpg


Figure 4 shows partial edge surface microstructure of #1, #2, and #3.

Some parts have defects and some parts have sharp edges. This comes from two steps in making the ceramic coil. In the first step, the friction causes defects and coarse edges when samples are removed from the mold. In the second step, the surface of the ceramic coil is loose from the friction between the ceramic powders and the mold. The loose powders cannot be heated up and molded onto a dense body. The ceramic powders also stick to the surface of the ceramic coil. This process also makes the ceramic powders fall off easily.


35kv32s.jpg


Figure 5 shows ceramic powders falling off microstructure #1, #2, and #3.

When the ceramic powder is touched, the powder sticks onto that surface. All these powders are glasslike pieces with sharp edges mentioned above in the optical microscope. The size of the ceramic powder is distributed between 30120 micrometers which is too tiny to be seen by the human eye.


308fcax.jpg


Figure 6 shows the microscope image on the contact segment between ceramic and coil.

Number #1 does not compare with others since its coil does not come in contact with the ceramic material. Many ceramic powders gather at the position near coil. The first reason is that the coil cannot be easily compressed into a ceramic material when the ceramic material is molded. This is because the cross section of the coil is circular. The second reason is that powders are produced after taking the coil off of the mold. It is impossible to clean the powders stuck to the inner surface of the ceramic coil. There are ceramic powders on the inside of all ceramic coils on the market.


9rj5za.jpg


Finally, ceramic coils may cause death. Making the ceramic material
The ceramic coil is made from inorganic porous ceramic material. There are tiny pores inside the ceramic material that cannot be seen. Pores play an important role in wicking. In order to produce a porous ceramic material, raw materials such as silica powders and poreforming materials like starch or other organic polymers are needed. Then they are mixed and put into a mold with high pressure. Samples are obtained with a fixed shape. The samples are put into a furnace and set to a high temperature. Pores are formed while the poreforming agent combusts and escapes. This kind of pore plays an important role by introducing eliquid into your vape. However, to make enough pores, the temperature to stick the materials together is lower which causes low tensile and compressive strength. The powders fall off or crack when the ceramic coil is touched or shaken. All the powders can be introduced into the lung by air which is dangerous (the speed of air can reach 223mph when we are vaping).

Vaping

Ceramic coils will absorb more eliquid. Eliquid is vaporized and evaporated when the coil is working. High pressure from the vapor will expand and damage the structure of the porous ceramic material. Loose powders will fall off and go into the lung.

Causing death

Silicosis is a form of occupational lung disease caused by inhalation of crystalline silica dust. Symptoms are inflammation and scarring in the form of nodular lesions in the upper lobes of the lungs. This is a type of pneumoconiosis. Silicosis can be complicated by the development of severe scarring, where small nodules gradually merge together, reaching a size of 1cm or greater. Progressive massive fibrosis is associated with more severe symptoms and respiratory impairment. Silicosis can also be complicated by other lung diseases such tuberculosis, nontuberculous mycobacterial infection, and fungal infection, certain autoimmune diseases, and lung cancer ("Silicosis." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web.
29 Sept. 2016.)(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicosis).


In conclusion, ceramic coils are not healthy. First, a ceramic coil is made from silica similar to glass. Second, ceramic powders or glasslike pieces easily fall off. Finally, silica powders may cause death.

Uwell is working hard to develop a better ceramic coil. However, it is impossible to continue with current technology. Therefore, Uwell will put making a ceramic coil on hold.

Uwell wants to tell customers the truth. Uwell will never produce a product that causes death. Would you buy a coil that lasts longer at the cost of your life?"


6X1groD.png
 

TwistedGray

Well-Known Member
I am liking the Evolve Evolve Plus more than some of the options; although, I wonder what the actual noticeable difference between this $25 unit and the more expensive $100 Puffco Plus is?

Any thoughts on that would be greatly appreciated...hate to throw $75 more at it just because...
 
TwistedGray,

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
I am liking the Evolve Evolve Plus more than some of the options; although, I wonder what the actual noticeable difference between this $25 unit and the more expensive $100 Puffco Plus is?

Any thoughts on that would be greatly appreciated...hate to throw $75 more at it just because...
Please remember that almost all of these cartridges/chambers/atomizers work on almost all batteries (so long as they are compatible with sub-ohm resistance and variable wattage). This means that a puffco plus is only super expensive if you buy it with the actual battery. The puffco plus atomizer without the battery can be had for use with other batteries for $30-35.

My advice is find a good VW battery and then you can choose whatever atomizers you want (get a 510-ego adapter if your battery has a female 510 thread since most carts will need this).

On the Puffco plus, I have come to understand that all of the problems that still persevere in that unit are in the battery (aside from people's complaints about the airflow holes and wishing they were higher). If you only by the atomizer, you can avoid these issues :) Spending more on the whole kit is actually probably not as good of an idea. Most people around here who love that cart do not use the puffco battery, instead opting for other VW batteries.
 

nosmoking

Just so Dab HAppy!
I am liking the Evolve Evolve Plus more than some of the options; although, I wonder what the actual noticeable difference between this $25 unit and the more expensive $100 Puffco Plus is?

Any thoughts on that would be greatly appreciated...hate to throw $75 more at it just because...
The Yocan Evolve Plus is a great starter pen. I would go ahead and start thinking about a mod box (aka vw battery) to pair with it as having control to adjusting the voltage will further enhance your experience greatly. Low voltage for great flavor and high voltage for cleaning or bedtime medicating. I would pick up a 5 pack of the donut atomizers off ebay for efficiency and taste. Get them with the caps and you can load em to go!

The big difference in the Yocan Evolve Plus and the Puffco Plus to me is flavor. The donut style atomizer allows for oil to go under the donut and around the edges between the ceramic wall and this creates a dark buildup that is hard to clean and gives a burnt taste before too long. There also may be exposed wires for the donut coil that could contribute to this. The QDC atomizer that comes stock with the Yocan Evolve Plus gives huge hits but almost immediately deteriotes in flavor IMO and gets gunked up like all other exposed coil atomizers. I just dont find exposed coil atomizers as effiecient or tasty.

Some other great advantages of the Puffco Plus over the Evolve Plus are the dab dart that comes in the Puffco mouthpiece and the design provides ceramic walls instead of metal.
 
nosmoking,
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Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
To the original question: I would second the recommendation of the Divine Tribe donuts, the new v3.0 is awesome, and the old v2.5/2.7 is still a great performer that is probably better suited to novice users who don't want to mess around the insides or rebuild their atty (the v3), or for those that like micro-dosing small amounts. (v2.5)

Although I have not used some of the other ceramic attys mentioned here personally, I am familar with them and I have read over each of the threads in "e-cig based portables" and based on the pics, and lots of feedback from users, it seems most of the competition has some significant design drawbacks over the DT donuts, although they seem like most of them could still perform pretty decent.

Any decent (non-porous, alumina) ceramic atty that can operate in temp control mode, has sufficient airflow that doesn't get clogged very easy, and doesn't leak out very easily, should be able to make very nice, pleasant, healthy vape for you.

My advice is find a good VW battery and then you can choose whatever atomizers you want (get a 510-ego adapter if your battery has a female 510 thread since most carts will need this).

That is some great advice....in 2013! :lol: Cmon herbi!

Why would someone recommend an obsolete VW battery for a portable vape when temp control mods are so pervasive, and cheap and user-friendly these days? You can always revert to VW with a TC mod, if the user so wishes.

Most or all of the attys mentioned here so far can operate in TC modes, the benefits being a much quicker warm-up time (or a slow ramp up, with low watts if the user wants that) and being able to avoid combustion, which minimizes reclaim and crust buildup and preserves the flavor or your concentrates the best. Once set up, you can carelessly hold the button down, puff and enjoy, without thinking about it or doing some delicate button-cycling dance to avoid combusting your oil. :disgust:

Even if you do like big, hot, slightly-combusty hits, you can dial in a higher temp for huger clouds that may sacrifice some flavor, but at least you won't be continually over-heating the coil as you keep the button held down: it just holds whatever temperature you desire

If you actually source a VW box mod or pen vape in 2017, you're buying a design that is at least 2-3 years old, or is made by a well-behind-the-curve vape mod manufacturer, and you're paying the same amount (or more) for a product that is likely larger, heavier, with less battery capacity (mah) and features for its size than the latest crop of tiny TC mods like the evic basic. ($30!)

VW...sigh....:(

ive been thinking about trying the DT coils, but after reading why Uwell wont make ceramic coils im finding it hard to do so.

your thoughts?

@herbivore21... id like to know what you think as well.

Hey...I am not the herbi whose opinion you are soliciting, but I did read over that and I have some thoughts on the issue too:

Thanks for posting that, first off, it's good to be challenged and to raise issues of common concern.

I think your skepticism of the types of ceramic donuts being discussed here is misplaced, based on the hazards you shared with us regarding silica-based RBA heaters.

The reason: all these ceramic donuts aren't made of silica. They are made of alumina (aluminum oxide) to the best of my knowledge. Various brands of donuts may have different coil wires soldered to them, some are Ti, others kanthal (yuck) the DT wires are made of nichrome. The soldering material for the wire can vary as well.

These kinds of ceramic donuts we're discussing are all non-porous, and are quite durable to abrasive scraping. They do not emit dust or particles.

With regular use vaping melt oils, a layer of thick "reclaim" oil can accumulate on the donuts. My lazy trick to get it clean, short of a full-on cleaning, is to set the temp to 200F (the minimum) and hold the button down while i scrape it off with a flat-edged dab tool. The gentle heat loosens the reclaim, doesn't even make it sizzle, while the tool easily glides across, wiping it off and leaving an almost perfectly white and clean and flat donut underneath.

I've done this on some donuts hundreds of times, and no visible chunks, dust, or fibers break off from the donut. Even after burning them clean by setting them to VW mode (that mode does have some use) and heating them to glow mildly, the integrity of the donuts is uncompromised, even if you set the watts/temps too high and use it a lot. The electrical contact blows between the wire and the solder on the donut, rendering it inoperable, well before any significant particulates can be emitted from the donuts.

The guy who designs these donuts and vapes, Matt @divinetribe, has even sent one of his latest units to a lab for an off-gassing test, and he has shared these raw lab results with me . Although it is quite detailed and I can't interpret it with much confidence, he has assured me the results were excellent, with the help of his doctor & the lab techs explaining it. IDK why, but I'm sure these results will be published soon, once they can be broken down for the layman. :huh::shrug:

But I'd encourage you to contact Matt if you have concerns about the safety of vaping with ceramics. He's quite accessible and un-pretentious, and I'm pretty sure you'll come away from a discussion with him with your concerns completley or mostly allayed. ;)

Anyways, sorry for the long counter-rant, but I think you've got silica mixed with alumina in this case. I'd like to see the original source of that quote from another forum too, to see what other people have responded to regarding that post. :sherlock: Thanks
 
Last edited:

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
To the original question: I would second the recommendation of the Divine Tribe donuts, the new v3.0 is awesome, and the old v2.5/2.7 is still a great performer that is probably better suited to novice users who don't want to mess around the insides or rebuild their atty (the v3), or for those that like micro-dosing small amounts. (v2.5)

Although I have not used some of the other ceramic attys mentioned here personally, I am familar with them and I have read over each of the threads in "e-cig based portables" and based on the pics, and lots of feedback from users, it seems most of the competition has some significant design drawbacks over the DT donuts, although they seem like most of them could still perform pretty decent.

Any decent (non-porous, alumina) ceramic atty that can operate in temp control mode, has sufficient airflow that doesn't get clogged very easy, and doesn't leak out very easily, should be able to make very nice, pleasant, healthy vape for you.



That is some great advice....in 2013! :lol: Cmon herbi!

Why would someone recommend an obsolete VW battery for a portable vape when temp control mods are so pervasive, and cheap and user-friendly these days? You can always revert to VW with a TC mod, if the user so wishes.

Most or all of the attys mentioned here so far can operate in TC modes, the benefits being a much quicker warm-up time (or a slow ramp up, with low watts if the user wants that) and being able to avoid combustion, which minimizes reclaim and crust buildup and preserves the flavor or your concentrates the best. Once set up, you can carelessly hold the button down, puff and enjoy, without thinking about it or doing some delicate button-cycling dance to avoid combusting your oil. :disgust:

Even if you do like big, hot, slightly-combusty hits, you can dial in a higher temp for huger clouds that may sacrifice some flavor, but at least you won't be continually over-heating the coil as you keep the button held down: it just holds whatever temperature you desire

If you actually source a VW box mod or pen vape in 2017, you're buying a design that is at least 2-3 years old, or is made by a well-behind-the-curve vape mod manufacturer, and you're paying the same amount (or more) for a product that is likely larger, heavier, with less battery capacity (mah) and features for its size than the latest crop of tiny TC mods like the evic basic. ($30!)

VW...sigh....:(



Hey...I am not the herbi whose opinion you are soliciting, but I did read over that and I have some thoughts on the issue too:

Thanks for posting that, first off, it's good to be challenged and to raise issues of common concern.

I think your skepticism of the types of ceramic donuts being discussed here is misplaced, based on the hazards you shared with us regarding silica-based RBA heaters.

The reason: all these ceramic donuts aren't made of silica. They are made of alumina (aluminum oxide) to the best of my knowledge. Various brands of donuts may have different coil wires soldered to them, some are Ti, others kanthal (yuck) the DT wires are made of nichrome. The soldering material for the wire can vary as well.

These kinds of ceramic donuts we're discussing are all non-porous, and are quite durable to abrasive scraping. They do not emit dust or particles.

With regular use vaping melt oils, a layer of thick "reclaim" oil can accumulate on the donuts. My lazy trick to get it clean, short of a full-on cleaning, is to set the temp to 200F (the minimum) and hold the button down while i scrape it off with a flat-edged dab tool. The gentle heat loosens the reclaim, doesn't even make it sizzle, while the tool easily glides across, wiping it off and leaving an almost perfectly white and clean and flat donut underneath.

I've done this on some donuts hundreds of times, and no visible chunks, dust, or fibers break off from the donut. Even after burning them clean by setting them to VW mode (that mode does have some use) and heating them to glow mildly, the integrity of the donuts is uncompromised, even if you set the watts/temps too high and use it a lot. The electrical contact blows between the wire and the solder on the donut, rendering it inoperable, well before any significant particulates can be emitted from the donuts.

The guy who designs these donuts and vapes, Matt @divinetribe, has even sent one of his latest units to a lab for an off-gassing test, and he has shared these raw lab results with me . Although it is quite detailed and I can't interpret it with much confidence, he has assured me the results were excellent, with the help of his doctor & the lab techs explaining it. IDK why, but I'm sure these results will be published soon, once they can be broken down for the layman. :huh::shrug:

But I'd encourage you to contact Matt if you have concerns about the safety of vaping with ceramics. He's quite accessible and un-pretentious, and I'm pretty sure you'll come away from a discussion with him with your concerns completley or mostly allayed. ;)

Anyways, sorry for the long counter-rant, but I think you've got silica mixed with alumina in this case. I'd like to see the original source of that quote from another forum too, to see what other people have responded to regarding that post. :sherlock: Thanks
My reason for suggesting VW is that it doesn't seem like all of the atomizers work with TC mode yet or aren't necessarily dialled in with known values. That will of course come. For example, I do not know of anybody who has a puffco plus running on TC but it runs better than with the stock battery on a VW mod.

Also, VW is an operating mode. Most these days do both TC and VW modes.
 
Last edited:
herbivore21,
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Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
My reason for suggesting VW is that it doesn't seem like all of the atomizers work with TC mode yet or aren't necessarily dialled in with known values. That will of course come. For example, I do not know of anybody who has a puffco plus running on TC but it runs better than with the stock battery on a VW mod.

Also, VW is an operating mode. Most these days do both TC and VW modes.

Yes, any atomizer should fire more reliably with a regulated VW-VV mod over an unregulated vape pen. A mod can read coil resistance and adjust voltage to deliver an accurate wattage the user desires. An unregulated vape pen can only discharge at fixed voltages which leads to easy burning.

But like you said, VW is also just another mode offered on TC mods, so i dont know why you would advise someone to get an older VW mod when newer TC mods do everything and then some more, and cost the same!

Nearly all the ceramic dab attys worth using can work with TC. The range of settings known to 'dial them in' is well known and often just as easy as setting the right tc mode, watts and temp. Its quite easy.

@herbivore21, have you actually used any of these ceramic dabbing attys with a temp control mod?
 
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herbivore21

Well-Known Member
Yes, any atomizer should fire more reliably with a regulated VW-VV mod over an unregulated vape pen. A mod can read coil resistance and adjust voltage to deliver an accurate wattage the user desires. An unregulated vape pen can only discharge at fixed voltages which leads to easy burning.

But like you said, VW is also just another mode offered on TC mods, so i dont know why you would advise someone to get an older VW mod when newer TC mods do everything and then some more, and cost the same!

Nearly all the ceramic dab attys worth using can work with TC. The range of settings known to 'dial them in' is well known and often just as easy as setting the right tc mode, watts and temp. Its quite easy.

@herbivore21, have you actually used any of these ceramic dabbing attys with a temp control mod?
Yes, I own a Puffco+ cart. Don't have my own mod yet but used it on a friend's mod once. Have not been able to find any info on running it in TC yet from my fellow users on FC. As I said, I'm sure it will work above. As I also said, both VW and TC mods are generally one and the same these days and that the Puffco+ has not been used yet in TC successfully to my knowledge so your criticism was moot :p Regardless of the phrasing I used, I simply suggested using a contemporary mod in the mode that I know for certain is compatible with all such carts/atomizers/whatever you want to call them ;)

I already mentioned above nobody I know of has it working on TC yet and so this is why I came in talking about VW.

If you can find this info (to get a puffco+ working on TC), please do let us know as there are a few folks who would love to have this info! I am still choosing a mod. The Evic Vtwo mini is looking great for my needs so far :)

I should clarify that I only use coil-less carts and even then this is for no more than .05% of my oil usage. I do not use pens frequently nor endorse them for as daily drivers. The carts still do not fully clean like brand new and there is a definite smell of over cooked errl which is difficult to get out of the ceramic (I find that oils cause this problem much more than full melt, which qtips more fully and easily). Pens IME are still pretty jenky compared to the more reliable vapes and e-nails.

I must say, the Puffco+ has not had any of the issues I've heard of at all IME (I'll keep all posted on longevity after a long time!). No clogging (although I could see how this could happen if you didn't clean properly or overloaded, treat these carts like an equivalent sized nail, one dab at a time)! It gets somewhat hot if you fire it 8-10 times in a row at higher temps but not too hot to touch :) The flavor is definitely the best I've had from a pen hands down.
 
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Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
@Vape Donkey 650

What controller/mod do you recommend with this pen?

If youre asking which temp control mod / battery to use with whichever atomizer you choose, i would go with any temp control mod released by joyetech or eleaf in 2015/16. Threre are many options for size, form, battery life, colors and screens. They all tend to function and perform quite similarly.

A few choices to examine would be the evic vtc mini / vtwo mini, cuboid mini, evic basic, and eleaf pico. I use all of these mods and they work great, but nearly any tc mod from these companies can work great for you. (Avoid the isitick 40w TC)

Other companies make good tc mods as well, but i have not used them, or would not recommend them due to the larger size, cost, and being less user friendly.

Since you say you want the best flavor, TC is required, Imo, since it is difficult to get big clouds and avoid combustion without it.

For the atomizer, i would go eith the divine tribe 2.5 or 3.0. However, the yocan cerums and w9s ceramic kiss attys look decent and i know many people are happy with them, i havent used them because DT donuts seem the best, and the creator of them, Matt, is actually the originator of vaping with ceramic donuts. All of these other companies have just copied his design because it's open source
 
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herbivore21

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If youre asking which temp control mod / battery to use with whichever atomizer you choose, i would go with any temp control mod released by joyetech or eleaf in 2015/16. Threre are many options for size, form, battery life, colors and screens. They all tend to function and function quite similarly.

A few choices to examine would be the evic vtc mini / vtwo mini, cuboid mini, evic basic, and eleaf pico. I use all of these mods and they work great, but nearly any tc mod from these companies can work great for you. (Avoid the isitick 40w TC)

Other companies make good tc mods as well, but i have not used them, or would not recommend them due to the larger size, cost, and being less user friendly.

Since you say you want the best flavor, TC is required, Imo, since it is difficult to get big clouds and avoid combustion without it.

For the atomizer, i would go eith the divine tribe 2.5 or 3.0. However, the yocan cerums and w9s ceramic kiss attys look decent and i know many people are happy with them, i havent used them because DT donuts seem the best, and the creator of them, Matt, is actually the originator of vaping with ceramic donuts. All of these other companies have just copied his design because it's open source
I've had no trouble at all using the Puffco+ at 10-13w and have never had any over-cooked taste that way. I got the overcooked taste into the cart by heating it up too much trying to clean like a nail at first, which worked. An iso soak will solve it I'm sure. A new chamber is <$20 anyway so this shit is throw-away cheap compared to other vapes.

I don't like donut designs and prefer the Puffco+ because the whole bottom of the chamber gets heated. I can get the bottom of the chamber to get white as brand new even after staining it black after lots of usage! Also means no errl can pool in less hot parts of the floor of the dish.

Still I'm sure these are all mostly similar carts ;) I don't much care to try others right now (but that will come later, replacement carts are so cheap!) but my thanks for the suggestions of mods, it definitely sounds like I was looking at the right kind of thing with the vtwo mini :)

I actually have some no-brainer ideas to make these carts much more efficient too! I need to buy myself a CNC with various diamond tooling before I can make that a reality though! :lol:
 
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