kushcabbage
vapor nerd
so um, what's with the drop down list for options? I see a 99 dollar version http://thermovape.com/collections/b...ers-parts/products/thermovape-ac-power-supply
Discontinued ThermoVape
- Thread starter VaporBoxed
- Start date
Slightly Medicated
(SliM) Iron Lungs
I could not figure that out.... I think the kit comes with a case and the regular one does not?
The $99 option is just the body and sleeve, there is no AC cord included. This is to only be used with approved power supplies ONLY.
Slightly Medicated
(SliM) Iron Lungs
Hehehe, I just got through sending Noah an e-mail. Thanks for answering. That was my other thought, is that it was the body but no cord. Does the carrying case still come then, or is that kit only?
heres some pictures of the D.A.R.T on my Apollo Vtube
So its been about two weeks since i have used this combo, i got two more batteries and a trust fire 2x charger. I have to say this is one of the most efficient ways of using oils. its little more expensive than buying a thermovape rev full kit (74(e cig kit)+54(thermovape rev cartridge)) vs (119), but its nice because it also comes with all the things to use this as an e cig. One battery last about two days. so my three batteries last me about a week, with lots of vaping. took away my need for a passthrough.
think i might pick up a ThermoVape Evolution Vaporizer Cartridge for flowers soon.
jambandphan03
in flavor country
Just be aware, the Evo pulls a lot more juice than the Dart/Rev and puts out way more heat. If you try to use it on your ecig mod, there is the chance your mod won't handle it for long. Go read through the Evo thread if you want more details on that...
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/thermovape-evolution.5685/ Just giving you a heads up.
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/thermovape-evolution.5685/ Just giving you a heads up.
PhreedomPhries
High Plains Drifter
What is the approved spec range for the T1? What is the spec on the power supply you are offering with the kit for $125?
OF
Well-Known Member
Based on my testing on the Pipes unit I'd say it's not just a matter of stuff you can read in off the name plate. It's also a matter of internal resistance, something Pipes fine tuned in a clever way so it drives the various units correctly.
AFAIK it's a 6 VRMS supply. But not just 'any old' supply with that rating is going to work, assuming I'm right and you can find such a beast. "to only be used with approved power supplies ONLY" probably sums it up, and right now that's a list of one supply?
OF
PhreedomPhries
High Plains Drifter
Between the two, I gather the Pipes adapter runs a bit hotter, hence its suitability only for the T1/Evo. I'm torn as to which I may prefer, because it seems possible that the Pipes may be better suited for running my T1 through a water pipe, since it would give it a little extra kick. Am I wrong in this thinking?
jambandphan03
in flavor country
I've been using the Jameco 6v 3.3amp power supply w/ Pipes adapter, and having consistent, good results with all my 6v friendly TV products. I can't say I have tested Pipe's power source, knowing it was unregulated, made me a little worried. I am sure it works fine for the T1, but it sure is nice to be able to switch around to other vapes.
PhreedomPhries
High Plains Drifter
I hear that. And it is for that very reason that I am considering the use of more than one power supply, so I can harness the ability to optimize each devices' different power needs. I'd be willing to use the TV supply where best-suited, and use the Pipes for my T1 if it gives it a little extra kick in the pants. Am I wrong in thinking that the Jameco power supply is only driving ~20w to the T1 30w core? I just want to make sure that I get a power supply that will constantly drive the T1 as if it is on a brand new set of batteries, particularly for home use so that it delivers nice milky vapor through a water piece.
jambandphan03
in flavor country
I can't be sure if it's only pushing 20 instead of 30, but I do know it gets up to fully functional heat in just a few seconds. No problems there. The only way I can know for sure if there is much of a difference, would be to test it against pipe's power supply. I suppose I could do that. I was just concerned about overdriving my T1 core, would rather play it safe. I am getting lots of vapor using the Jameco power. I just can't say for sure if it would meet your standards. Meets mine just fine.
PhreedomPhries
High Plains Drifter
Hey Pipes, doesn't 6v dc 7a amount to a 42w delivery to the 30w T1 core? How is a 7a 6v well-suited? I am confused...Cool, I have a Cree 16oo Lum coming my way from ebay. Single 18650 battery. $15 bucks, speaking about $15....
Also....
.
.
Looky what I found. Took alot of digging. A power supply 6 volt 7 amp (yep 7) regulated DC with the needed connector. Best of all, under $15 shipped. Un-frickin believable!!!
Kinda shooting myself in the foot. But hey, never out to make alot of money anyway. And can choice the supply cord of your country so good for our over seas friends too.
Just need the adapter to hook it up to your TV........hmmmm
Not tested in the field but my specs look good
Cheers you all,
Pipes......
OF
Well-Known Member
Yeah, you're a bit off I think. The idea is to match what a battery would do, since that's what the T1, Revolution, Evolution and so on in all their splendor were created to run against. Such a battery not only has the 'open circuit terminal voltage' you read with a meter (or find on the nameplate of a power supply) but there's also an "Internal Resistance" (often called 'Thevenin Resistance' after the guy that discovered the idea), typically a fraction of an Ohm due to the construction and chemistry. IMRs, for instance, aim for very Ri values since this resistance is what causes them to 'sag' under load. This is what's limiting the power delivery in V2 if you're following that.
That right, which is what TV is doing when they qualify a supply, and you deliver normal currents 'across the board' as the loads change. It's also worth considering that the battery is constantly dropping in OC Voltage over charge life, we need to protect for a 'hot off the charger' condition. This means, of course, later in the cycle it'll cool off some. The PA, therefore, can start lower but since it doesn't fade over time it can outperform in the long run.
Now, how I'm supposed to rate the Pipes unit against the TV one I've never seen I'm not at all sure of. Got any ideas? What I can say is when I measured the Pipes unit it was safely under 'hot off the charger' levels but he'd (IMO very cleverly) slanted it toward the low end. That is Revolution was a pretty close match to a 'worst case' (highest Voltage) battery. Evolution was a bit less, T1 more so. They all ran very well (Revolution/DART is not good if the power drops too far, the other two being conduction machines are much more tolerant of the drop (they just get a little slower). This is why Jam (and I when I tested it) get good performance with the Jameco supply, there's enough margin built into the system so when the supply goes into power limit it's still strong enough to give usable performance. Not 30 Watts, but enough for the job. A lucky choice of supply in that it's 'graceful' in it's protection function.
If you want good, solid T1 performance Pipes will deliver, and in a less expensive if not so elegant way. I'm confident that the TV supply has been selected carefully to give as near optimum performance across the band as possible. The key, I think, is finding one with abnormally low internal resistance. Whatever it is, I think it's a good plan from both a cost and "approved" standpoint as well. IIRC $25 is about what we paid for the Jameco supplies? And another five for the funny power cord.
How's that?
OF
kushcabbage
vapor nerd
what voltage are you setting your dart at for optimal clouds?
OF
Well-Known Member
what voltage are you setting your dart at for optimal clouds?
That's not really how DART works you know.....
OF
kushcabbage
vapor nerd
I find it very versatile
You need to realize it doesn't matter! The Lavatube has a current limit of 2.5 Amps. At any voltage setting above 3.6, the KR LT will lower the voltage (varies from 3.3.v to 3.5 in different documentation) and there is NO INDICATION on the display.what voltage are you setting your dart at for optimal clouds?
Did you get the Vtube during Apollo's 33% off sale last month? (yea it said 30%, but was 1/3 off ) Now that the Lamdo is replacing the LT, a lot of ecig shops are heavily discounting the V1 LT (be careful about anything labeled as V1.5, V1.5T or V2 - some of these models, by a different manufacturer, can "turn on" accidentally).
-NDA
EDIT: This assumes the DART presents a 1.5 Ohm load - I believe it is actually a bit lower. The LT is not a good power supply for low resistance devices (e.g. all TV stuff I know of counts here).
jambandphan03
in flavor country
Only one day left to get the discount, and still no glass on the site... 
OF
Well-Known Member
I feel your pain. Or is that frustration? I assume it's because they still don't have a firm delivery date. You've still got 23 hours and change left, don't miss the deadline waiting though......
OF
jambandphan03
in flavor country
We will be away from the computer most of tomorrow, after 1pm, till late, so who knows what will end up happening. I'm not really that worried... what ever happens, happens. 
Nick Brand
Bud Vaporer
greetings everyone-
my first post.
firstly, thanks for all these educating/clarifying posts!
I ordered a T1, wall-adapter, revo conv kit, and the pure, smooth, and ufo tips. got my batts elsewhere.
I've been using a volcano exclusively for almost ten years; never smoke. Hoping the T1 will provide a true portable "convection experience". I know about the learning curve required for manual vaporizers- my very first vaporizer was the Inavap...
http://www.inavap.com/ ...also a convection model, but not a real good one. Which was why I broke down and bought the 'cano classic, then digit.
Hoping some combo of filters/glass adapter with the T1 will take the edge off the dry throat issue that can occur with my volcano.
Also, my T1 and wall-adapter will arrive before the batteries and I'm looking forward to going through the learning curve first without the battery's varying-voltage-over-time getting in the way of the learning. I trust there won't be a hot handle to contend with either. Non?
take care, have fun, and enjoy the holiday (and sale!)
nick
my first post.
firstly, thanks for all these educating/clarifying posts!I ordered a T1, wall-adapter, revo conv kit, and the pure, smooth, and ufo tips. got my batts elsewhere.
I've been using a volcano exclusively for almost ten years; never smoke. Hoping the T1 will provide a true portable "convection experience". I know about the learning curve required for manual vaporizers- my very first vaporizer was the Inavap...
http://www.inavap.com/ ...also a convection model, but not a real good one. Which was why I broke down and bought the 'cano classic, then digit.
Hoping some combo of filters/glass adapter with the T1 will take the edge off the dry throat issue that can occur with my volcano.
Also, my T1 and wall-adapter will arrive before the batteries and I'm looking forward to going through the learning curve first without the battery's varying-voltage-over-time getting in the way of the learning. I trust there won't be a hot handle to contend with either. Non?
take care, have fun, and enjoy the holiday (and sale!)
nick
Nick Brand
Bud Vaporer
warm greetings thermo-
I believe I read elsewhere that the T1's temp delivered to the chamber is around 400F/204C. Is that when the batts are delivering 6.0v? When they are fully charged, and perhaps higher than 6.0, is the temp (linearly) higher too? Just wondering what the range of temps are as the batts go from full to spent.
If we built our own power supply with varying voltage, what range would be operable, and what would the temp be for a given voltage?
thanks, and sorry if this's been explained elsewhere.
OF
Well-Known Member
I think your logic is a bit off. Yes, the bowl temperature is close to 400 for proper vaporization. But the heater is FAR HOTTER than that. It's 'glowing hot'. It heats the air you draw in. You draw enough of that air to get it to work (more volume for cooler heater) but the heater is always much hotter. Exactly how hot is not important as it only effects the rate not temperature of the load.
Temperature in such systems is not linear, usually following a square curve once into the radiation region (where the core runs), you don't want to raise the voltage hoping for 'bigger clouds', that's not how it works. As I just said elsewhere, the key issue is probably the Internal Resistance of the supply. This I think is what drives selection of a unit, not something you get off the nameplate. T1 is originally designed to work off batteries, TV specifies a supply that mimics that, I suggest you stick with it unless you know a lot more about this stuff than I do?
Good luck, and enjoy your unit. IMO it's well designed to work as delivered.
OF
Nick Brand
Bud Vaporer
Just how difficult is the T1 to use with the Pure-Flow filter? (I mean, there isss a pic of the two together on the Pure-Filter's page on the TV site.) Physics in the way, or just discomfort?
Does using the pure-filtered T1 in conjuction with a glass adapter and bong provide enough
"sucking/pulling leverage" to make it work better? If additional leverage is what helps, could you make a mouthpiece or add-on to the filter that provides the additional leverage, so that we can skip the bong and adapter?
Would making a middle delrin sleeve with larger holes help?
And speaking of delrin sleeves, could you guys make some in tootsie-roll brown? I want a high-tech tootsie-roll to "snack" on.
mmmmmmmmm, hiiiigh-teeeeech toooooootsie rooooooooll
thanks!
Does using the pure-filtered T1 in conjuction with a glass adapter and bong provide enough
"sucking/pulling leverage" to make it work better? If additional leverage is what helps, could you make a mouthpiece or add-on to the filter that provides the additional leverage, so that we can skip the bong and adapter?
Would making a middle delrin sleeve with larger holes help?
And speaking of delrin sleeves, could you guys make some in tootsie-roll brown? I want a high-tech tootsie-roll to "snack" on.
mmmmmmmmm, hiiiigh-teeeeech toooooootsie roooooooollthanks!