Discontinued ThermoVape

[Futuretvowner]

Sorry to hear it, but no surprised. It kinda conflicted with my experience and understanding of NiO (which I know as a brutally tough thin film that laughs at far stronger acids that dilute GAA, the kind that dissolve you). And it conducts electrons very well. Then again experience is where you find it.

While it's nearly impossible to troubleshoot such stuff from the distance (more so when the guy on the other end has no spares or instruments to help) aside from the proverbial 'shotgun' (never a good first plan, IMO), I'm still stuck on the switch. Not only because the symptoms point that way but because I had a similar problem that ended there. If the switch is down square and get's pushed back correctly on assembly, I'm looking to the contacts inside and some junk.

OF

Ya I would not be surprised at all if it is the switch that is the problem. I'm wondering if I should maybe try soaking the switch in vinegar? I'll wait to hear if that is OK to do though. Hopefully this will end in me sending my TV back for a diagnostic test so they can fix the problem. I really don't want to just replace my switch only to find out that it isn't the problem and be stuck without a working TV for a week.

 

[willieR]

Curious, is this the manufacturer's prefered method to solve individual issues? Through this forum?

 

[Futuretvowner]

Curious, is this the manufacturer's prefered method to solve individual issues? Through this forum?

IDK but I got a faster response through here than through my email to them

 

[sessnet]

Curious, is this the manufacturer's prefered method to solve individual issues? Through this forum?

I emailed ThermoVape about my problem this morning (11 am my time in New York), and they got back to me in 6 minutes!!! That's in California too. So that means they resolved my problem at 8am their time, that is when most people are still hugging their pillow, or shlepping around in their pajamas and slippers with a cup of coffee...

So, either they are inhuman, have found a way not to sleep, or have an email program installed into their eyeballs so they can answer emails with their eyelids closed.

ThermoVape customer support is first class!

 

[OF]

The electrical current path seems very simple, but contacts seem to be an issue

Yup, but the rule is "Never argue with the electrons, they know what they're doing....".

OF

 

[Futuretvowner]

I emailed ThermoVape about my problem this morning (11 am my time in New York), and they got back to me in 6 minutes!!! That's in California too. So that means they resolved my problem at 8am their time, that is when most people are still hugging their pillow, or shlepping around in their pajamas and slippers with a cup of coffee...

So, either they are inhuman, have found a way not to sleep, or have an email program installed into their eyeballs so they can answer emails with their eyelids closed.

ThermoVape customer support is first class!

hmm I emailed them this morning and still haven't received a response...

 

[sessnet]

hmm I emailed them this morning and still haven't received a response...

Where are you located? I feel really bad, it seems you're being neglected for some reason. If I was ThermoVape - I would have just sent you a new one. And a tshirt..or something else.

 

[SameOldTim]

We'll get you going again in no time. Like OF said though, you can reinstall the O-ring to keep you vaping for the time being.

Curious, is this the manufacturer's prefered method to solve individual issues? Through this forum?

Not necessarily preferred but we want to provide our customers the easiest way possible to help them.

hmm I emailed them this morning and still haven't received a response...

Sorry its been a pretty busy morning for us , we'll get right on that in a few min.



Tim

 

[Futuretvowner]

NVM just saw Tim just responded

 

[OF]

Ya I would not be surprised at all if it is the switch that is the problem. I'm wondering if I should maybe try soaking the switch in vinegar? I'll wait to hear if that is OK to do though. Hopefully this will end in me sending my TV back for a diagnostic test so they can fix the problem. I really don't want to just replace my switch only to find out that it isn't the problem and be stuck without a working TV for a week.

I have no confidence in vinegar, due no doubt on having never used it.... Since there's a steel spring in there and no sure way to rinse well, I'd avoid it if possible. There are contact cleaner sprays for this use, but I found I didn't need it as I was able to 'massage' the junk out of the way. Alignment of those contact parts is critical, I think you only get one chance to hit in the right place. That is they're not self aligning.

For washing I'd trust water or ISO first.

If I was you, I'd contact TV and see if they will send you a new switch to try, it's a cheap part and your time isn't. The goal is to avoid the trip back if we can without loosing to much sanity.

OF

 

[Futuretvowner]

Great customer service once again!

 

[SameOldTim]

Everyone,

We have Google Checkout Services up and running to be able to process your transactions. We are working to have our new Processor running by the end of the day as well.

Also we just cut our first run of the top-loading Rev bodies! Ill see if i can get you a little sneak peek.


Tim

 

[OF]

Everyone,

We have Google Checkout Services up and running to be able to process your transactions. We are working to have our new Processor running by the end of the day as well.

Also we just cut our first run of the top-loading Rev bodies! Ill see if i can get you a little sneak peek.


Tim

Google checkout? We'll be forced to use them? This is the outfit that is taking all the heat for revising their 'privacy rules' for our benefit (of course) and at the same time selling targeted customer information (like who shops for what.....) out the other door?

I think I'll pass for a while until the dust settles on this. I want to see the loose ends tied down I'm thinking. I consider my name and what I buy to be confidential information, not for sale to third parties who might want it for any number of reasons. Google is on record on how they view it.....

Any other options? Perhaps buy from a dealer instead?

OF

 

[Futuretvowner]

I'm being sent new parts but the device has officially COMPLETELY stopped working!!! lol

 

[goodgreenganja]

I just wanted to report that I've been having the same problems with it not actually turning on unless I spin the sleeve. I haven't tried soaking it in vinegar just yet. It's been like this for a couple weeks, but I didn't think to mention it until I saw that someone else was having the same problem.

 

[PB88123]

I just wanted to report that I've been having the same problems with it not actually turning on unless I spin the sleeve. I haven't tried soaking it in vinegar just yet. It's been like this for a couple weeks, but I didn't think to mention it until I saw that someone else was having the same problem.

Has your thermalcore interface piece come unbonded? When you unscrew the battery sleeve does this sometimes come out?

Send an e-mail to sales@thermovape.com and they will help you get it back in working order.

 

[OF]

Has your thermalcore interface piece come unbonded? When you unscrew the battery sleeve does this sometimes come out?

Send an e-mail to sales@thermovape.com and they will help you get it back in working order.

How opportune this should come up. I just this afternoon got back from 'the Factory' to amongst other things get my core fixed. I have, I think, one of the very first made. Not much glue was used then, more was used later on and then the assembly changed a bit so the parts no longer unscrew. All versions perform the same, just the early ones might unscrew if someone gronks down hard tightening the cap or battery on (it has 'reverse threads' so it unscrews then).

Anyway, the fix is really simple. Strip it down to those two parts and clean the threads with ISO if not clean already. Then a small drop (enough to fill the threads at a single point) of:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/cntct_usns/overview/Loctite-Stikn-Seal-Extreme-Conditions.htm#

The advice is do it when you're through for the night so it can sit overnight to fully cure. Other, similar, products have had issues with heat and grabbing too quick on assembly but 'the guys' cautioned it's still not a good idea to boil this part (nor the switch). The core should be removed.

So, anyway, that's the story. That's the stuff they use and recommend. They said for guys that really want to be sure, a second drop on the other side buys a lot of insurance.

OF

 

[PB88123]

How opportune this should come up. I just this afternoon got back from 'the Factory' to amongst other things get my core fixed. I have, I think, one of the very first made. Not much glue was used then, more was used later on and then the assembly changed a bit so the parts no longer unscrew. All versions perform the same, just the early ones might unscrew if someone gronks down hard tightening the cap or battery on (it has 'reverse threads' so it unscrews then).

Anyway, the fix is really simple. Strip it down to those two parts and clean the threads with ISO if not clean already. Then a small drop (enough to fill the threads at a single point) of:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/cntct_usns/overview/Loctite-Stikn-Seal-Extreme-Conditions.htm#

The advice is do it when you're through for the night so it can sit overnight to fully cure. Other, similar, products have had issues with heat and grabbing too quick on assembly but 'the guys' cautioned it's still not a good idea to boil this part (nor the switch). The core should be removed.

So, anyway, that's the story. That's the stuff they use and recommend. They said for guys that really want to be sure, a second drop on the other side buys a lot of insurance.

OF

Good info OF for those with a first batch TV that may have that problem. Glad they figured out a way to make sure it is stuck in there now. Also a good reminder to only boil the core, top cap and mouth piece. That way you can keep the problems to a minimum.

I noticed a 3rd party vendor on Amazon has the TV for $195 shipped. Only 7 left so order soon if you want a fantastic vaporizer at a slightly discounted price.

 

[Pipes]

The advice is do it when you're through for the night so it can sit overnight to fully cure. Other, similar, products have had issues with heat and grabbing too quick on assembly but 'the guys' cautioned it's still not a good idea to boil this part (nor the switch). The core should be removed.
OF

Just checked the data sheet. For sure, do not use until cured as there are some fumes happening during the curing process. Would not assemble until cured as well. Just to be safe.

That reverse thread is such an odd design. The RES for the e-cig option is also like that but with no glue. Having said that it is odd that since I added the outer delrin sleeve I have never had it undo or even think about it. I thought the sleeve did the securing and never even thought the T1 had glue. Have never taken delrin off of it, modestly tried a couple times but since it gave me a hard time and had no real reason to take it off, just left well enough alone. Anyway, it is what it is.
Cheers,

 

[OF]

Good info OF for those with a first batch TV that may have that problem. Glad they figured out a way to make sure it is stuck in there now. Also a good reminder to only boil the core, top cap and mouth piece. That way you can keep the problems to a minimum.

I noticed a 3rd party vendor on Amazon has the TV for $195 shipped. Only 7 left so order soon if you want a fantastic vaporizer at a slightly discounted price.

That's my understanding as well. By the time I got my Revolution they'd changed to tougher glue and also a tighter sleeve (my old one would spin when warm). Like I said, the new units I saw today were made differently so I guess you'd say there are three versions?

For sure guys take that boiling thing too far. We were joking at the guys who boil their switches as if it's some kind of magic I guess? Makes no sense, wash a bunch of new stuff into a place you can't wash stuff out of.... Better than boiling the battery, I guess. The rest (including the rings) will take it I guess, but why?

I'm not even sure boiling the core does much except clean the bowl, the heaters themselves seem plenty clean. Cap and mouthpiece for sure. To each his own, I guess.

Just checked the data sheet. For sure, do not use until cured as there are some fumes happening during the curing process. Would not assemble until cured as well. Just to be safe.

That reverse thread is such an odd design. The RES for the e-cig option is also like that but with no glue. Having said that it is odd that since I added the outer delrin sleeve I have never had it undo or even think about it. I thought the sleeve did the securing and never even thought the T1 had glue. Have never taken delrin off of it, modestly tried a couple times but since it gave me a hard time and had no real reason to take it off, just left well enough alone. Anyway, it is what it is.

In this unit the air intake is a LONG way away from this area, but any fumes are best avoided.

I think the reverse thread is to keep it from coming off with the cap or battery, but it only does so if it doesn't itself get broken free when either of those is overtightened. Once that happens it's not easy to tighten anything without risking something else. The very early ones like mine also had a looser sleeve which may have helped it come loose in the first place.

Leaving the stuff working alone is good advice, not often taken seriously by guys like me with new toys......

OF

 

[Pipes]

I have been looking at the characteristics of LiPo batteries as they do not seem to act as I am use to in rechargeable batteries. The main point which is very important with these LiPos is that they do not like been taken outside there operating voltage range of 3 - 4.2 Volts. Therefore, complete discharge is not a good thing at all and apparently cause them to not be able to provide maxium current. You can read up on them somewhat here.
Now I know completely discharging is not good for any battery but this article makes a special note of it.
Also. they do not stay charged well over time. Not our concern here....LOL
They have a very high charge cycle count at 2000. With all this in mind and having two chargers and 16 batteries, I have changed my routine somewhat. I was using a fresh battery to start and try to make it go for the life of the bowl. Would usually make it but sometime the herb keeps going and going till no more power to finish. But by then the battery is completely exhausted and not good.
Now I change as soon as I suspect the power is down noticeably. Even if it takes two sets to ensure the bowl is done. I think I was in the mind frame of getting that last drop from the battery.
The article doesn't go into the memory effect but as far as I know, or assume, it would be like other lithium technology. Any further info on this would be nice as would not want to go too far the other direction and keep topping off and find the memory effect bits me in the ass.
I think the rule of one set of batteries per bowl should not be used for people to properly gage to start with as the learning curve can make this completely confusing and think things are wrong. Like failing to get a haul still counts as far as the batteries prospective. Anyway just food for thought.

I am finally getting a good handle on this unit and if (big if) concentrate on every haul I can now get a steady 10-12 hits per 110 mg bowl. (record is currently 13) Even the first one is reasonable if the preheat pulsing technique used. Find stirring and hole clearing critical.

 

[Pipes]

Leaving the stuff working alone is good advice, not often taken seriously by guys like me with new toys......
OF

Man I hear you there.......

 

[OF]

I have been looking at the characteristics of LiPo batteries as they do not seem to act as I am use to in rechargeable batteries. The main point which is very important with these LiPos is that they do not like been taken outside there operating voltage range of 3 - 4.2 Volts. Therefore, complete discharge is not a good thing at all and apparently cause them to not be able to provide maxium current. They have a very high charge cycle count at 2000.

Careful here, while what you say is true (of course) we're using protected cells in the battery. There's circuitry inside to protect it from over charging and over discharging. It also protects it for excessive current (which is why some of the 900 mHa ones choke in the T1 but work OK in Revolution (lower current)).

I wouldn't worry about draining them too low, but they will stall when tired and should recover fine. And I'm sure we'll never see those 2000 cycles. We're hammering these guys really hard and they're heating up because of it. Neither will help cycle life or capacity in the long run.

OF

 

[Pipes]

Good to know about the under charge protection. Big releif in fact.
Tell me more about the tired effect. Sorry if already discussed but sounds important.

Although rare, I have had certain batteries perform like crazy, feels like full charge from start to finish with power to spare and the same battery set next time is lower then normal. Seems sometimes the batteries come off the charger with steriods, and other times hung over. Have had herb actually combust on two different occasions, and think it has something to do with this.

As you know I had battery problems from the start but getting to know their personality has a lot to do with it. Now as you say we hammer the hell out of these little guys to the point the bottom becomes dented in somewhat. Do you think that this is anything to be concerned with? I imagine the intelligence (protections circuits) are the nibble end?

 

[Stu]

We were joking at the guys who boil their switches as if it's some kind of magic I guess?