Discontinued ThermoVape Revolution for concentrates

[QuantumTimeSpace]

Did I read somewhere back that the DART also had a redesign on the ceramic? I believe it has an extra gap now?

The one I got today has a bigger opening in the bottom than the windowed ver., and the ceramic bit has gaps on either side where it looks like oil might flow into easier. I'm not sure if the ceramic piece is smaller, or if the gaps are there simply because the hole covering it is bigger.

 

[zmurder]

Sure, try the 6V Revolution cart on the Ultra. You can also swap switches. I wouldn't try the LV on 6 Volts, but I bet it gets warm on 3 with some foil stuffed in under one of the normal RCR123A cells.

One thing I'm told that often hangs up brand new units (and ones just messed with) is the floating switch. To be absolutely sure it's working right take the cart off and the adapter off the lower tube. Take the switch out (it pulls down) then push the o-ring that holds it all the way to the bottom of the hole. Then slide the switch in as far as you can. Screw the cart it, it should back the switch out as it comes down tight. You can feel the edge of the black plastic shirt with your fingernail for the last turn or two. Then put it back on the battery tube.

Anyway, that should get you started?

OF

Thanks OF the switch does indeed appear to have been the issue. Removed it and put it back in and this ceramic is lighting up nicely! Now for that first dab.....will report back with a review or any other problems I encounter. For now I'll just say that I love the size of the Alpha Ultra. My original 6v Rev (the UltraMax body I guess) just seems so bulky now.... I don't see any need to go even smaller (the UltraLite) esp if it only has half the battery life. The Ultra just seems to be the perfect compromise of size and battery life.

Edit: This thing blows my old 6v windowed Revolution out of the water. I never got hits like this, either new or right after a cleaning, with the original Rev. I'm thinking my original Rev was faulty or underpowered or something....but I'm not worried about that at all right now...

 

[jambandphan03]

The one I got today has a bigger opening in the bottom than the windowed ver., and the ceramic bit has gaps on either side where it looks like oil might flow into easier. I'm not sure if the ceramic piece is smaller, or if the gaps are there simply because the hole covering it is bigger.

That is how my AVA LR looks inside... maybe they cross bred the designs.

 

[QuantumTimeSpace]

Edit: This thing blows my old 6v windowed Revolution out of the water. I never got hits like this, either new or right after a cleaning, with the original Rev. I'm thinking my original Rev was faulty or underpowered or something....but I'm not worried about that at all right now...

Exactly my thought

 

[jambandphan03]

I'm wondering the same thing about my Rev. It works fine, but not the way the new one is being described. I got in on some of the first run. It does work, so I am not complaining by any means, but I am curious to see the difference when my dart gets here (hopefully tomorrow)

 

[SF Giant]

Edit: This thing blows my old 6v windowed Revolution out of the water. I never got hits like this, either new or right after a cleaning, with the original Rev. I'm thinking my original Rev was faulty or underpowered or something....but I'm not worried about that at all right now...

 

[OF]

Did I read somewhere back that the DART also had a redesign on the ceramic? I believe it has an extra gap now?

Sure, and you saw it a week ago if you were following this thread. Check out post 930 (270 posts in one week....) for a real live photo of that gap. I discussed this with Tim when I was there yesterday getting my prototype rebuilt using the new (plated) shell and (redesigned and plated) upper, the same base as before (Tim removed it, cleaned it and put it in the new assembly which is great, that heater is serving me just fine thank you very much, I don't want to loose it.


The gap seems to contribute a lot. As I understand it, it's function is to provide bypass, that is flow past the heater and vaporizing element to sweep the produced vapor away (and up the pipe to you and me). Ironically it performs the same function as the much maligned gap in the window (which for the life of me I still can really find?). It's not, as I understand, like the 3 little vents in the upper section of Vapman but more like the three tubes supporting the pan if you know that neat little vape. Or the way the vent on MFLB works.

Tim told me it's a change across the line, so I assume it's going to be incorporated into the window version as well?

OF

 

[Bob Loblaw]

so my dart is in the mail and expected to be here by tomorrow.
as an omi/persei user, is there a vaporpedia page for the rev. any tips, tricks, suggestions b4 i try this new tech?

OF, now that ur on here, any thoughts you want to drop my way?

 

[charliedontsurf]

Another FC member had this issue, it turned out to be the pin shorting (or open circut) when pressue was applied to the post in the power supply. I believe its 2 or 3 pages ago.
Tim

Do you mean this post?

2clicker: oh man, oh man. I really hope you aren't having the same problems that I had. The simplest explanation for the problems I experienced, was that the universal adapter was threaded/twisted on too tight and ended up "pushing" the center post of the battery deeper into the body, so that later when I tried an omi or standard 510 cart on it with adapter, the pin was too low and never made contact with the cart. Unfortunately this problem is pretty complex as it's a few factors (lower pin not making contact, pin driving itself into body and shorting, solder wire possibly breaking off the post inside due to movement, etc), but it only takes one small oversight and overtightening to get into this weird situation. I can see how others might fall into the same trap, so thermovape if I were you I would put a FAT warning on the universal adapters saying not to twist them in all the way, etc. I think some units' center + pins are more fragile than others...

You mentioned the batt doesn't have LED lights on it? That makes it so hard to troubleshoot. Outside of teh thermovale rev, have any other carts on it worked since the initial failure? WIthout an LED it's hard to say.. but try this, thread the universal adapter onto the cart first, until it's bottomed out.. then thread the whole thing into your battery, but *super* loosely. Until the bottom post is just barely kissing and making contact witht he + terminal in the battery. Hold the button for 5-6 seconds and feel the dart to see if its getting warm. Repeat a few times. If no heat, either loosen or tighten the assembly and try again.. that's the best advice i can give right now but without a multimeter or a battery with LED on it, it's going to be tough

Right now the adapter seems to be the issue for me. The Omicron works fine with its own carts, and works with the Rev Universal Adapter screwed in 98% of the way, but once it actually tightens on firmly, I get a solid blue light and no go, no heat. Do I need to start conducting surgery on these pins or is my adapter defective? I emailed support on the website about 36 hours ago and haven't had a response yet.

I also just experienced my first case of window-rage today while using my 98% screwed on Rev with some bubble, man it gets gummy and hard to manipulate. I have to say I would of happily waited like 2 weeks and just gotten the DART if I knew it was coming down the pipe, although I understand changes in the ceramic would make it less useful for bubble and kif?

 

[OF]

OF, now that ur on here, any thoughts you want to drop my way?

Sorry, Bob, I guess you lost me there? Thoughts about what? I got lots of opinions to offer....

I think you'll love the DART and if we don't get spending under control the whole mess could blow up on our children and our grandchildren will forced grow up in a very different nation that we did. Are either of those close?

OF

 

[OF]

Right now the adapter seems to be the issue for me. The Omicron works fine with it's own carts, and works with the Rev Universal Adapter screwed in 98% of the way, but once it actually tightens on firmly, I get a solid blue light and no go, no heat. Do I need to start conducting surgery on these pins or is my adapter defective?

My 'take' on this is the universal idea is in play. Not all 510 connectors are made the same. Different makers play with the length of threads some. This is why the TV switch floats. It's also why their adapter floats it's pin. It's also done in the One Love adapters I have (I assume for fit reasons), and while I don't have the THC unit I understand it's the same?

The key understanding is, I think, that if the contact assembly doesn't float (like on Omicron) you shouldn't tighten it down tight, it's not designed to stop on the shoulder by stop when the center connection is solid. If a guy wanted to, I guess he could carefully dress the pin down but then assuring contact with no float might be hard to do? For myself, I've no trouble running the adapter screwed snug but not tight enough to distort stuff in the Omicron except that the time out is a PITA to get the necessary 20 seconds or so. Now it seems like my ordering a V2 to get around this issue might not work because the drive is reduced by the protection circuit? Isn't that the way it goes sometimes?

There was some talk from THC lately about 'fixing' the contact problem in the heads, if I follow right this will fix this issue. The Omicron (and I assume Persei) units will adjust to deal with longer or shorter connectors then?

Thanks OF the switch does indeed appear to have been the issue. Removed it and put it back in and this ceramic is lighting up nicely! Now for that first dab.....will report back with a review or any other problems I encounter. For now I'll just say that I love the size of the Alpha Ultra. My original 6v Rev (the UltraMax body I guess) just seems so bulky now.... I don't see any need to go even smaller (the UltraLite) esp if it only has half the battery life. The Ultra just seems to be the perfect compromise of size and battery life.

I agree, I found the mid size unit fit my hand and rode in the pocket better. It sill has plenty of battery life IMO. The little guy is much smaller in diameter, but still pretty long (not much can be done about that) and the battery life can be one day (30 hits) if you're really using it. If I was going to buy just one unit and just one power supply for it, I'd probably be the LV DART on the mid size power supply. I'd miss the window and doing kief and bubble, but that's what I'd pick for vaping oil and the like.

Anyway glad it fixed your 'no life' problem. I've had to reset the floating switch a few times, I suspect it doesn't slide in the ring? Usually unscrewing the cart a few turns (doesn't even have to come off) and pushing the slide firmly up before retightening the cart again (pushing the switch back down) is enough.


OF

 

[Bob Loblaw]

Sorry, Bob, I guess you lost me there? Thoughts about what? I got lots of opinions to offer....

I think you'll love the DART and if we don't get spending under control the whole mess could blow up on our children and our grandchildren will forced grow up in a very different nation that we did. Are either of those close?

OF

so my dart is in the mail and expected to be here by tomorrow.
as an omi/persei user, is there a vaporpedia page for the rev. any tips, tricks, suggestions b4 i try this new tech?

 

[Bob Loblaw]

I don't have the THC unit I understand it's the same?



OF

have thc adapter, will let you know when i get my dart

 

[OF]

so my dart is in the mail and expected to be here by tomorrow.
as an omi/persei user, is there a vaporpedia page for the rev. any tips, tricks, suggestions b4 i try this new tech?

Bob, I'm not sure but I think you just said the same thing all over again? Almost the same words?

No, I know of no such vaporpedia page. Not my kind of stuff, but some kind guy who's into it can find a LOT of advice from many users here I think if he wanted to compile it.

I do have a draft of some stuff I was working on for TV, it's only a draft, sure to change and covers a wide range of topics related to the little rascals. I don't want to get too carried away with this but here's the part on using it perhaps the most useful bit? It makes more sense with the initial loading section before and reloading section after but it might be what your looking for:

"This vape is like many others in that energy is in short supply, any we ‘waste’ heating air up not only makes the hit less potent by adding extra air but robs us of power to make more vapor. And slows stuff down even more. Avoid pulling extra air though (like you need to do with some vapes).

Key it on. Push the slide firmly but not hard upward against the stop which is the switch contacts. Be ready to keep this modest but firm pressure on for the next 20 seconds or so. Now let it run without drawing any air for maybe 10 seconds (it varies, you get a feel for it) and take a test puff. A puff, not a pull. Take a bit of whatever comes off first into your mouth and spit it right back out to see if it has substance. If it does you’re ready for the next step. If not, wait maybe two seconds and take another small test puff. Repeat until you see solid vapor, it might take several tries. Keep the heat on. When you see vapor, time to hit. Don’t honk on it, you’ll only cool it off and kill the vapor. Instead, start a long, slow, steady pull. The idea is take the vapor off only as it’s produced with minimum of cold air being drawn in. You’re going too slowly if vapor backs up and comes out the vents at the base of the cart; otherwise you might be going too fast. Get the picture? Let the vapor come, and come it will a few seconds into the process. It can be brutal, pay attention it may change quickly. If it gets ahead of you, let go of the ‘chicken switch’ (drop the power). If you don’t have too much oil in it, it will quit quickly.

You’ll learn what a reasonable time is (say under 20 or 25 seconds?) to get past the wispy vapor to the solid production mode. Hit it too soon, and you’ll never get it into high gear. If you don’t get a solid test puff, don’t start the hit. It’s time to consider if the concentrate is running low and it’s time for more. "
OF

 

[prk]

There is a Vaporpedia article here. Doesn't look like it's been updated in a while, or had a lot of content added to it. Doesn't cover the Revolution, or any of the newer accessories, either, FWIW.

 

[Bob Loblaw]

Bob, I'm not sure but I think you just said the same thing all over again? Almost the same words?

No, I know of no such vaporpedia page. Not my kind of stuff, but some kind guy who's into it can find a LOT of advice from many users here I think if he wanted to compile it.

I do have a draft of some stuff I was working on for TV, it's only a draft, sure to change and covers a wide range of topics related to the little rascals. I don't want to get too carried away with this but here's the part on using it perhaps the most useful bit? It makes more sense with the initial loading section before and reloading section after but it might be what your looking for:

"This vape is like many others in that energy is in short supply, any we ‘waste’ heating air up not only makes the hit less potent by adding extra air but robs us of power to make more vapor. And slows stuff down even more. Avoid pulling extra air though (like you need to do with some vapes).

Key it on. Push the slide firmly but not hard upward against the stop which is the switch contacts. Be ready to keep this modest but firm pressure on for the next 20 seconds or so. Now let it run without drawing any air for maybe 10 seconds (it varies, you get a feel for it) and take a test puff. A puff, not a pull. Take a bit of whatever comes off first into your mouth and spit it right back out to see if it has substance. If it does you’re ready for the next step. If not, wait maybe two seconds and take another small test puff. Repeat until you see solid vapor, it might take several tries. Keep the heat on. When you see vapor, time to hit. Don’t honk on it, you’ll only cool it off and kill the vapor. Instead, start a long, slow, steady pull. The idea is take the vapor off only as it’s produced with minimum of cold air being drawn in. You’re going too slowly if vapor backs up and comes out the vents at the base of the cart; otherwise you might be going too fast. Get the picture? Let the vapor come, and come it will a few seconds into the process. It can be brutal, pay attention it may change quickly. If it gets ahead of you, let go of the ‘chicken switch’ (drop the power). If you don’t have too much oil in it, it will quit quickly.

You’ll learn what a reasonable time is (say under 20 or 25 seconds?) to get past the wispy vapor to the solid production mode. Hit it too soon, and you’ll never get it into high gear. If you don’t get a solid test puff, don’t start the hit. It’s time to consider if the concentrate is running low and it’s time for more. "
OF

thanks, mamma always said, if it doesn't work the first time, try, try, again.

 

[OF]

thanks, mamma always said, if it doesn't work the first time, try, try, again.

Ah, yeah, right Bob, I think. I got lost again, not to worry, It's been happening a lot lately, I'll catch up again....

Anyway, enjoy your new tool, it's a good 'un.

OF

 

[Bob Loblaw]

Ah, yeah, right Bob, I think. I got lost again, not to worry, It's been happening a lot lately, I'll catch up again....

Anyway, enjoy your new tool, it's a good 'un.

OF

will do. basically i need to prime this sucker for a few cycles pre-inhale, thanks. how much on average can you run thru it (of reasonably clean concentrate) b4 cleaning is necessary? guesstimates?

 

[OF]

will do. basically i need to prime this sucker for a few cycles pre-inhale, thanks. how much on average can you run thru it (of reasonably clean concentrate) b4 cleaning is necessary? guesstimates?

Boy, I sure don't follow that, but if you're happy, so am I. I'm sure you'll sort it out, hard to make a big mistake, it's pretty tough.

You can no doubt run grams of good quality concentrates. My prototype had more than a gram and was hardly broken in, I'd never have cleaned it otherwise. BTW, there was about .150 grams retained concentrate in there, you could probably get most of it with alcohol but if left it gets recycled down into the pot again over time. It reaches a stable condition where condensate flows down as more vapor condenses above it at a more or less uniform rate. Establishing that is what I consider priming it, which may be part of my confusion above. Doing so takes several refills, dozens of sessions.

Good luck with your efforts.

OF

 

[OF]

I've been working with a new way to gauge the timing of the hit then heat cycle of the Revolution. For sure the 'test puff' is the key, but I'm talking about the timing of it. I think we can get a reliable timing clue by feeling the heat work through the brass body to the outside. For those who have figured out how to get thick hits from their Revolution more or less on demand would you please check this out and let me know if you agree it works that way?

TIA

OF

"Another way to judge your timing is to start out stone cold holding the bottom of the cart as low as you can between thumb and forefinger. Key it on. In 10 seconds or a bit more you should be at the ‘I think it’s definitely getting warmer’ stage, a few seconds later you’ll be at ‘yes, it’s definitely heating up’. Production should be ramping up quickly, take a quick test puff at the thinking part if not as soon as you’re sure. Pause a bit to ‘wow, this thing gets hot fast’ and the train is leaving the station with or without you….."

 

[Bob Loblaw]

so i just got my dart in the mail. put it on my persei, w/ adapter. put two 3v batts in. dry fired it to make sure it worked. put a load in and got a puff, then..... dead. messed w/ adapter connections....nothin'. any suggestions?

 

[Sinclue]

I assure you that once an order is filled that the package is picked up or send to the post office as soon as we can. We never leaved a fulfilled order on our bench unless were still trying to build parts for it.

Im going to talk to the office to see what the hold up was for your order.

Tim

Just wanted to follow up and say that my items arrived the next day after I made the inquiry. Never did get any reason for the delay, but note at least one other member had the same mystery delay.

Nevertheless, the LV Dart and the Ultra make a great combo. Field tested it with a load of PureGold last night. Most excellent, as I expected. Spotted at least two TV products in use in the crowd as well as a couple of competitor's models. Fuck Combustion indeed.

Question: are the batteries for the Ultra available from you? (IMR 14500 3.7v 600mAh). Or?

 

[OF]

so i just got my dart in the mail. put it on my persei, w/ adapter. put two 3v batts in. dry fired it to make sure it worked. put a load in and got a puff, then..... dead. messed w/ adapter connections....nothin'. any suggestions?

Perhaps you had the same problem as KT? is the cart screwed in too tight? Does the light function normally? Do normal Omicron carts work on the Persei?

It is the right version of the DART, right? That is it's not a LV.

OF

 

[Bob Loblaw]

Perhaps you had the same problem as KT? is the cart screwed in too tight? Does the light function normally? Do normal Omicron carts work on the Persei?

It is the right version of the DART, right? That is it's not a LV.

OF

yea, everything else is ok. talked to TV and they said it was prob. a burnt out core. worse, i accidentally ordered the LV Rev instead of the LV Dart so i have no Dart to use after getting two today (one being the rev accident) . i am currently awaiting reply for specifics on returns.
EDIT - just got off phone. will credit my account appropriately. first time dealing with TV and i must say the Customer Service is excellent. we aren't sure of the exact problem. i also ordered the glass adapter kit. hope it might work on my omi carts as well. while i am a sad panda for not having a dart, am more than willing to wait and highly impressed w/ TV. am fighting the urge to try out my LV Rev and wait 'til i get my return package, lol. guess i'll just go and hit my 2.4 shatter cart on my 6v instead, poor me, lol.

 

[jambandphan03]

I got my dart today quickly loaded a tiny dab of bho, warmed it, stuck the cap on, let it melt down, then pulled the cap off, let it cool a couple of minutes, got another dab ( a little more than the first dab) and put the cap on... warmed it again for a few seconds and started gently drawing. I started getting vapor pretty quickly and took a couple more puffs from it. Considering the bho I have is nearly gone, and I only had a little to load (sorry, no numbers for you guys) , I got instant good results, and it tastes really good, not metalic like the original rev did. Now this was my first attempt and I have not used it again since, so more testing is in order. Next up is some qwiso. I'll report back after I come down a bit and get to spend more quality time with it. So far... ** It does seem to get pretty hot, pretty fast. I am using one of my "riva/ego" knock off batteries and the button area got pretty warm after a couple of pulls, but nothing I couldn't deal with. Also stuck my pure/filter tip on there and it improved my vapor production, by slowing down the draw just a bit.