Discontinued The Venus Apollo

GTAVaper

Well-Known Member
When modded it is great for both cloud chasing AND flavour connoisseurs.

Also, if you look at the photos you will see that the silicone and Teflon is not in the vapour path but is rather used to seal the vapour path.

I can't remember the exact temperature that Teflon tape is good to be used for.....but I did Google it and it seemed to be OK from what I recall

Edit: Standard Teflon tape is 260 C or 500 F

If you have a poor seal at the heater screen performance will be affected.

Try twisting the tube as you push down on it and the bottom of the herb chamber should seat around the heater screen.

If you want the best performing Apollo the mods are absolutely necessary.....but if you aren't happy with it after modding for some reason.....it is easy enough to undo.

The first mod I would do is to grab a PZ1 driver and take the bottom cap off and plug the bottom air pathway with a piece of thin silicone....or aluminum/steel sheet metal.

This mod by itself will boost performance. I also strongly advocate using this vaporizer through a water bubbler
 
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brucee10

Well-Known Member
Can someone send me a photo of the bottom of the Battery cap? I want to buy an Apollo, but I might lack the manual dexterity to open that. I thought I could just drill two holes through the cap and then just screw a slightly larger knob to the top.

I also have a few ideas about the chamber and modifying it, or machining a new one, that mates directly to a 18mm Male joint with some sort of basket screen bowl like the Cloud Evo.
 
brucee10,
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Melting Pot

Sick & Twisted
Can someone send me a photo of the bottom of the Battery cap? I want to buy an Apollo, but I might lack the manual dexterity to open that. I thought I could just drill two holes through the cap and then just screw a slightly larger knob to the top.

I also have a few ideas about the chamber and modifying it, or machining a new one, that mates directly to a 18mm Male joint with some sort of basket screen bowl like the Cloud Evo.
All it is is a little round piece of aluminum with threads on it.
About a 1/4 inch thick
 

StormyPinkness

Rhymenocerous ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
OK..... got off my lazy ass and am posting some pics of my Air stem mod as well as a whip mod and Source Orb micro-bubbler mod (the idea I posted in an earlier post.
You've been awesome in this thread, lazy is the last thing I'd call you.

Since the Apollo is a so beautifull tool with so much work I hesitate to mod it using cheap plumber teflon (is it safe?) or silicon...it works well enough for me as it comes but I'm still learning how to use it.

Yesterday I was very close to combustion (by mistake) without to use the boost, I had a 4mn dry session at 40% with amazing clouds and taste until the Apollo turn off itself. I decided there was still some goodies to extract and start another session at 50% and 60% but I quasi-combusted after some draws...the load was very fine grounded (not my habit).

I noticed a too coarse grind (or scissor grind) is giving an uneven abv and too fine grind can lead to combustion.

The only mod I done is to put a sort of reducer in the glass tube to fit a 14mm male glass stem or a nano stem or a Lotus WPA in order to get a longer vaporpath to cool the vapor .

My halogen metal tube is a bit misaligned with the bowl and the glass tube, there is a small enlightened gap, I don't know if it affects performances.

I'm in love with the Apollo, it's not perfect about functionnality but when it comes to vapor quality it is impressive. More for flavor connoisseurs than for clouds chasers.
I'm not sure if you had this issue or not, but if it shuts itself off and you turn it right back on it will start it's heat up cycle all over again which could combust. When you turn it back on and it starts the heat cycle you either hold the boost or press it a couple of times (I forget which) to cancel it and just keep vaping at the current level.
 

PPN

Volute of Vapor
Hi, i manage to get the heater tube and the bowl perfectly aligned (I noticed it was misaligned, when the bowl was properly sit under the glass tube there was still a shiny gap) and this make a huge difference!

I'm still not able to make dry vaping at 40%+ fine grind, the vapor is now cloudy at hell, potent but harsh, very harsh, I was coughing like never. Even my D020 wasn't big enough to cool all this vapor, I'll test it on a bigger bubbler now.

Which setting do you use to get smooth clouds? I noticed a coarser grind helps for smoother hits too and the lower I tested is 30%, I didn't modify the pre-heating time and the boost level . Honnestly i like sipping and I don't want lung bunsting hits every time.
 

GTAVaper

Well-Known Member
@PPN
I would recommend a longer preheat time 3 min 30 sec minimum but to also insert the herb chamber in only after the pre-heat time is done. If you are not in a hurry, I would actually let it heat up for 4-5 minutes which will really heat soak the Apollo very well and help produce some very nice and tasty instant clouds - even on temps 3 & 4 since you are starting with a hot unit that will actually cool down and find it's equilibrium temperature at temperature 3 or 4 as you draw fresh air through the unit. Then you can start at the lower levels (2, 3, 4) and work your way up to whatever end point that you are looking for through a combination of increase power levels and/or boosting.

I think to get the best experience out of the Apollo that performing all of the recommended mods and using a water piece that cools well is essential. In my case, I use a double chambered water tool .....basically a stereo matrix with an attached large ash catcher that works well with everything that I've thrown at it.

Also, I re-read some of the earlier thread and hadn't realized it at the time since I didn't get a good look at it at the time but @Joel W. has already used 18mm glass and got great results with it (pg 27, post 660) and has also used the e-nano stem as a gong.

In a prior post I had also misidentified the person who had also used an Air stem mod as @Nssl, when in fact it was @Vapodudule who had first used that mod after seeing my Solo stem mod.

@Vapodudule has a slightly different way of using it than I do, which is worth a look and which utilizes the top of the chamber as well as two Solo core o-rings (pg 37, post 615); this probably gives comparable results but I don't know as I haven't used that configuration.

I believe that @Joel W. and @Nssl both use the e-nano gong stems at the end of the Apollo tube to connect to a water piece and that @Nssl also uses an Extreme elbow dome screen to reduce the load size within the existing stock chamber (e-nano mod - pg 26, post 649).

Also @virtualpurple has reported great success with an Underdog gong and enjoys the use of MV flexicones as described in posts 784 and 791 on pg 32. I tried the MV flexicones myself but found that I got a silicone taste in the vapour since the flexicine silicone is very hot and also in the vapour path.

I am kind of lucky that only half of my flexicone order was shipped by accident, and that after I received it and tried it that the vendor had no issues with cancelling the remaining portion of my order without any issue once I explained my usage of the flexicones as a mod for the Apollo that I found wasn't working quite to my liking due to the smell/taste of hot silicone that I was getting when I used them this way.

Although, I am happy that I was able to grab some MV stainless steel woven extract bowls which I am sure will work awesomely with the Apollo once I have access to a good source of extracts.

My favourite post that I came across when re-reading through the thread was from @vapognak in post 810 on pg 33 where he has used a Coke can and colorful yellow/green tape as quick mods

Also when re-reading the thread I came across posts by @StormyPinkness and @nosmoking who wanted a comparison between the Supreme V3 and the Apollo - which I will end with.

These are completely different vapes with respect to the heat source with the Apollo being electrically driven halogen bulbs and the Supreme having a massive aluminum heater block with many internal fins with a ton of surface area to use as a heat exchanger with the incoming air stream.

The vapour quality for both is extremely similar in nature......both VERY tasty when dialed in perfectly. The Apollo requires a bigger learning curve and more modding to perform at it's best but when you have it down it is very intuitive to use.

You can also get dense vapour with the Apollo but the Supreme will give you more vapour density and the flavour, although similar, is also more intense due to the quicker extraction. The Supreme V3 is also easier to achieve awesome results (pretty much idiot proof) and is also harder to accidentally combust with than the Apollo.

Since you can push the Apollo close to combustion without actually getting there, it is more tempting to push the envelope and that is where problems can occur in accidentally pushing it to the point of combustion.

The Supreme V3 with the proper torch can be heated to temp in between 50 to 60 seconds and you can finish a bowl before 4 minutes are up (including initial heating) even with one small reheat to maintain temperature.....and if you want to really rush things you can basically finish a bowl in about a minute if you can handle all that vapour at once.....probably only possible through water

The Apollo takes longer to heat up (which can be sped up with higher wattage bulbs) but once it is at temperature it is more conducive to session style vaping. You can kill a bowl in a few minutes or drag it out over 10-15 minutes if you keep the power low (at 1 to 3) and use a high boost (115%) to heat things up before you draw.

The Supreme can be used more like an extremely powerful bong rip ......hit it hard for a few draws and the bowl is spent. It is not conducive to sessioning because of the multiple heat up sessions required with the torch.

The Supreme will get you medicated more quickly than the Apollo if you are in a hurry..... but the Apollo will do just as good a job of medicating - it just takes a little longer, but will bring you to that same extremely medicated point - if that is where you are looking to go.

However, the one thing about the Apollo that is a big plus is the quietness of operation. With the Supreme, a propane or powerful butane torch is going to sound pretty loud as you are heating up the heat exchanger

The vapour quality of the Supreme is also the very best that I've tasted..... but the Apollo does come very close......just not as intense, especially off the first few draws, which is where the difference lays.

The Supreme is kind of like those Starburst gum pieces with the liquid centers with that extra gush of tasty vapour intensity. The taste might be just as flavourful with the Apollo as the Supreme .....but it just isn't quite as intense as the Supreme.......although it does blow everything else away that I've tried.

If I could only choose one, it would be the Apollo - but that being said, I would miss vaping with the Supreme. I would recommend that vapour connoisseurs get both of these vapes.

Although, I have pre-orders for the Milaana and Grasshopper yet to come in, from the reviews that I've read the Milaana is supposed to have better flavour/clouds through direct draw than the Grasshopper, although the Grasshopper is supposed to be very good with bong hits.

But the comparisons between the Milaana and the Apollo have been made both in this thread and the Milaana thread and it seems unanimous that the Apollo produces the more consistently flavourful vapour with also a lesser chance of combustion.

Also through water pieces, from the videos that I've seen of the Milaana vs my own experiences with my Apollo, I would have to say that the Apollo wins out hands down in producing very dense and flavourful clouds through a water piece over the Milaana - which is also more prone to combustion when used through water due to the delayed feedback. The one place that the Milaana/Grasshopper would win out with an advantage is in providing quick on-demand hits while in public ......as both of these vapes appear to have some great stealth advantages.

I hope that these comparisons and general discussion of past Apollo mods performed by various FC'ers have been helpful.
 
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PPN

Volute of Vapor
Honnestly mine works so well I haven't any need to mod it to increase performances since I realigned the heater tube with the bowl (no more air leaks here).At 40% the vapor is even too much thick sometimes and it medicates very, very well. I need to try to set it at 35% which seems to be my nice spot cause 40% is a bit too harsh and 30% a bit too smooth.

I decided to go for a whip mod actually using a mflb whip and a reducer to fit the 14mm mflb adaptater in the Apollo glass tube.

There is definitly a good amount of conduction cause when the unit turn off (no light) I can get 2-3 decent sized hits, with a true convection unit you can't get any vapor while the heater is turned off. This explain why the load is done so fast(and why it kick me so hard too), 0.1-0.15 load last me 5mn using boost only one time to avoid the unit turn off itself after 4mn....the same load can last me 20mn with my MiniVap. I need more experimentations at lower t°....

I notice there is a hot spot now but I didn't remenber to noticed it before...I think it's time to clean the top cap of the loading chamber.

Yes it's definitly a great device!

ps: I get some high drains batteires (sony VTC-4) but, except one, all was used alone in my Evic, so my question is: can I still use 2 of them in pair for the Apollo (even if they was never paired before)?

...Kerozen!?
 

GTAVaper

Well-Known Member
Honnestly mine works so well I haven't any need to mod it to increase performances since I realigned the heater tube with the bowl (no more air leaks here).At 40% the vapor is even too much thick sometimes and it medicates very, very well. I need to try to set it at 35% which seems to be my nice spot cause 40% is a bit too harsh and 30% a bit too smooth.

I decided to go for a whip mod actually using a mflb whip and a reducer to fit the 14mm mflb adaptater in the Apollo glass tube.

There is definitly a good amount of conduction cause when the unit turn off (no light) I can get 2-3 decent sized hits, with a true convection unit you can't get any vapor while the heater is turned off. This explain why the load is done so fast(and why it kick me so hard too), 0.1-0.15 load last me 5mn using boost only one time to avoid the unit turn off itself after 4mn....the same load can last me 20mn with my MiniVap. I need more experimentations at lower t°....

I notice there is a hot spot now but I didn't remenber to noticed it before...I think it's time to clean the top cap of the loading chamber.

Yes it's definitly a great device!

ps: I get some high drains batteires (sony VTC-4) but, except one, all was used alone in my Evic, so my question is: can I still use 2 of them in pair for the Apollo (even if they was never paired before)?

...Kerozen!?

You should be using matched batteries of relatively equal internal resistance and capacity which generally is achieved by running the same model pair of batteries together right from the beginning of their lives.

Otherwise I suppose that if you know what you are doing you could analyze the batteries and try to find matches among the same model of battery.....after all laptop batteries are salvaged all the time which means that this is already done. You should also never run two different models of batteries as a since they won't respond the same to load with different internal resistances.

But that all seems like a lot of work to avoid paying for a pair of relatively cheap batteries. I'd be interested in hearing other people's opinions on this too
 

vapen00b

Many vapes & accessories. Always happy to help
There is definitly a good amount of conduction cause when the unit turn off (no light) I can get 2-3 decent sized hits, with a true convection unit you can't get any vapor while the heater is turned off.

From what I've learned from Ville it's rather radiant heat that comes from the heat shield. The air comes in around the capsule that is shielded around 180 degrees. That heater is still hot after a while. That's what I understood at least, it's radiant heat plus convection.
 

Vape Dr.

Well-Known Member
Hello all:wave:

It seems everyone likes to use the Apollo through water.

I prefer to use it dry and keep it as portable as possible. So I came up with this mod idea and it works very well.

I feel this mod makes a night and day difference if you choose to use the Apollo dry.
Since the vapor can get a bit harsh using it dry, I made a DIY mod to create a little draw resistance, cool down the draw, and attach a water tool to it if you like.

Here it is and it works amazing. It is so simple I think @villekille2 could easily make this mod standard on the Apollo if he wanted to.

I used a short heat island roasting tube on the bottom which is sealed with factory heat island silicone from @Alan.
On the top I used a glass 14mm log vape stem from a CRZ I believe (but any should work) I chose this stem because of the built in glass screen.

Here is the modded factory Apollo stem. You can see the gap between the 2 tubes which creates turbulence in the airflow cooling it down.



Here is the bottom where the silicone and glass tube are pushed into the stock tube a few millimeters so it does not restrict the airflow from the herb chambers top screen. I wanted to make sure the silicone and tube were far enough above the herb chamber lids screen.




A pic straight through the bottom. As you can see the 14mm stem has a glass screen which I believe also cools down the draw.



Top pic.



A few more pics.





Pic with 14mm F-Bomb hydratube.



I used this set up with a friend last night who also had previously tried it in it's stock form.
He is a high temp vaporer and was able to truly enjoy the taste and get great vapor clouds at 30% power without even needing to use the boost button.

We really enjoyed using it dry this way, so I thought some of you might like it too!:tup:

If you like running it through water just put a 14mm hydratube on top it works great, and it is still extremely portable.


:science:
 

GTAVaper

Well-Known Member
Nice looking mod.....looks like a variation on the pics of @Vapodudule
Air stem mod with the 14mm water attachment at the top mouthpiece/WPA end

One suggestion for improvements would be to push the 14 mm glass stem through the top of the top piece of the herb chamber (with screen removed.....if it fits) or to leave the top of the herb chamber off completely and seat it against the bottom of the herb chamber.

That way it locks into it and you can use the reduced capacity 14mm glass bowl as an actual herb bowl and reap the benefits of longer exposure to heat through a smaller diameter but deeper bowl (for equivalent herb volumes) which adds much improvement to a more thoroughly vaped bowl of herb as is evidenced through an examination of the resulting ABV attained with such usage.

The reason for the more consistent ABV is as a result of the bowl and all the herb being directly in the vapour path - rather than hot air being pulled towards and through the smaller diameter air flow suction that is originating at the smaller heat island stem within the Apollo tube. This smaller diameter flow of air being pulled through the herbs can lead to a hot spot through the center of the herbs residing inside the larger diameter herb chamber and less vaped herb around the edges of this hot spot.

Since the stem locks into the SS herb chamber in such a configuration it also allows you to easily load and unload the Apollo through the top of the Apollo ......which helps avoid dealing with the burn hazards of loading and unloading the hot chamber through the side breech

Later Edit:

A later follow up once home for the evening (and a new mod) that demonstrates what is described above in sitting the end of the 14mm glass against the lower stock herb chamber screen. Note that in this mod although silicone tubing is used ......that all silicone is completely outside of the vapour path :rockon:

After reading of your mod utilizing Alan's roasting tubes, I remembered that he also uses overlapping dual layers of silicone to create his 14mm and 18mm Song ends for his stems. I also remembered that the Heat Island stems are the same 14mm glass as the Underdog stems.....whether or not a 14mm male glass joint is included or not.

After hearing of the Enano stem mods, I had originally attempted to mod a 14mm Underdog stem in the past but found that there was just too much of a gap to bridge with any silicone that I had but after remembering Alan's use of dual layers of silicone after you mentioned using a short Heat Island stem I thought that I would give the dual layered silicone trick a try.......and what do you know :science: ........SUCCESS!!!

See attached pics below......this mod is the simplest that I've seen so far and if it works as welll as the Solo/Air stem mod .....it might just end up being the most useful......since all it requires is a 14mm 5 1/4" Gong, the short stock Apollo tube and just the bottom of the herb chamber.

The SS lower herb chamber is also completely sealed and sticks to the end of the UD stem with the end of the UD stem bowl sitting at the bottom of the SS herb chamber screen. I believe that utilizing the bottom of the chamber while maintaining a complete seal around the top of the lower herb chamber is essential - since then the only way for air to enter is through the heater - which the bottom of the herb chamber seats upon very nicely.

I used a thinner strip of 1/2" O.D. silicone tubing and pushed it UNDER the wider silicone at the bowl end which puts two silicone tapers on both the herb chamber side as well as the side that connects to the Apollo tube. The fit is perfect and seals completely on both sides.

In order to keep the other 14mm male end of the 5.25" Underdog centered and locked in so that it can't come off the other end - I then take a wider strip of 1/2 O.D. and push it below the 14mm male joint until it is situated a little into the Apollo tube.

Then I double the tubing back on itself which forms a vertical lip against the rim of the Apollo tube at the 14mm joint end that is two layers of silicone tubing thick, which firmly keeps the Underdog stem fitted into place with no way to slip off the end - you can see this overlap shown best in the very last picture with the DHGate PNWT clone.

By using this doubled over silicone at the end it is very easy to just unfold it whenever you need to take the stem mod apart to clean it since pushing silicone over glass, and especially over other silicone....can be a real pain in the butt!

The Underdog stem is just basic 14mm glass with a male end and is pretty easy to find cheaply anywhere and I'm sure that you could also find this glass in a long enough piece to work this mod with the longer Apollo tube.

Sometimes simpler and less pieces are better :D - also the Underdog stem has a slightly smaller diameter than the glass Solo/Air bowl stems so vaping a smaller dose thoroughly through without stirring or causing hot spots in the original herb chamber also becomes a lot easier :tup:

When I finally get some degummed hemp fiber I think that I will stick a little bit behind the basket screen to help collect vape-able reclaim as well as keeping the stem clean.

Here are some pics of the new mod......enjoy! :)


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5QSCRKC.jpg


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dVCU6qP.jpg


qmgPY5F.jpg


XYM5Lj2.jpg


xcPxwAI.jpg


And then of course with my DHGate PNWT (not as fancy as your Planetvape version of course :p)

I thought that I would have to wait until my Grasshopper arrived until I got any usage out of this in any portable sense .......but I guess that now I have a compact portable water option for the Apollo - as well as a convenient way to hook up to a 14mm water tool when over at a friend's.


eVAzXhs.jpg
 
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GTAVaper

Well-Known Member
Damn! Past the post editing limit :( .....was hoping to keep everything in one post, oh well :shrug:

But anyways, here is the very small amount that was basically filling the steel basket of the UD stem screen showing a decent dark brown fairly consistent ABV with only slight variation.

The nicely tamped packed bowl of the Underdog stem in the prior postings above did vape fairly nicely...... but if you take a look at how small that load was in the bottom of the stock bowl then you will realize that it is problematic to vape these smaller dosages in the stock herb chamber.

When you are vaping a small bowl like this in the stock chamber the herb flies all over the chamber during your draw.

When I've experimented with small doses in the stock chamber before I started modding I found that a packed/slightly tamped load that is at least half a stock chamber or more deep provided the best results .......and that micro-dosages that flew around the chamber and didn't impede the vapour flow at all provided the absolute worst results.

This is also another reason why I advocate the use of a mod that incorporates a smaller bowl that also has an airflow that forces heated air through the entire width of a packed and very slightly tamped bowl.



XNL3YsV.jpg



Edit: I just discovered that you can push just a little bit of the doubled over silicone at the 14mm male end of the UD stem back into the Apollo tube (in a doubled up layer of silicone) for a perfect rock solid physical and also air tight fit at that end - even though the extra air seal is less meaningful since the other end is already air tight.

Also, with just the very end of the doubled up silicone tube pushed back between the outside of the UD stem and the inside of the Apollo tube; it is also easy to snag it back out with a fingernail and unroll it if you want to take apart the stem mod for cleaning.
 
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PPN

Volute of Vapor
Isn't a good thing the load is flying in the loading chamber?

I think the Eerlectric flower nail make your load to spin for a better extraction without stirring. Although I would understand if it is less cloudy.

Is it possible to create a sort of reducer to put in the bowl...?

This vape is difficult to handle while hot...I never know where I need to take it, the bottom is too hot, the middle is out of question cause the hot loading chamber and the boost button so only the top rest...

The power/boost button is sensitive to everything not only a hot human contact like for the Persei touch button ...is it an issue if you carry it in a bag?

Testing, testing...
 

Vapodudule

Well-Known Member
I very quickly switched from short air stem to regular solo long stem so that i can have a mechanical action and stability of the bowl. When hot the short air stem would slide into the tube without any possible action.

Now the weak point would be the 14mm so a reducer 14/18 replaced it to achieve a glass connection.
 
Vapodudule,

GTAVaper

Well-Known Member
Isn't a good thing the load is flying in the loading chamber?

I think the Eerlectric flower nail make your load to spin for a better extraction without stirring. Although I would understand if it is less cloudy.

Is it possible to create a sort of reducer to put in the bowl...?

This vape is difficult to handle while hot...I never know where I need to take it, the bottom is too hot, the middle is out of question cause the hot loading chamber and the boost button so only the top rest...

The power/boost button is sensitive to everything not only a hot human contact like for the Persei touch button ...is it an issue if you carry it in a bag?

Testing, testing...

@PPN
No, it isn't a good thing for herb to be flying around loose in the chamber. Myself as well as others have reported on this in this thread. The best extracted ABV is achieved with a fine to medium grind and with a slightly compacted herb "puck". When I was still using the stock herb chamber and filled it 3/4 full if I drew hard then when I opened the chamber it would be fluffed up to fill the chamber completely.

As you can see from the pics above a small packed puck of herb in an Underdog basket screen doesn't even cover the bottom of the herb chamber and there is no way that you would achieve anywhere near the level of extraction of the shown ABV in the stock chamber with that size of load.

@Vapodudule
I know that you were originally using your Air stem a little differently than myself incorporating the top of the herb chamber and 2 Solo core o-rings

I'm not sure I understand your posted reasons for changing to a Solo stem but am wondering if you could post a picture of your Solo stem mod so I can compare it to the way I have constructed my Solo stem mod.....and also to present another mod alternative for other people's consideration
 

GTAVaper

Well-Known Member
I've been playing with the new long 5 1/2 " UD stem mod some more and am loving it!

Since my previous mods were using glass Solo bowls that were static, and used fixed in place glass screens - I had actually forgotten the benefit of an Underdog/HI/Nano style of stem - which is that the bowl itself can be shifted further away from the heat source.

I "remembered" this again when after packing the modded UD stem and then seeing the screen shift back up into the glass when packing - since not enough resin was available on the glass to help keep the screen fixed into place.

So for those of you more worried about combustion......or baking your herb with radiant heat that arises from having the herb closer to the halogen heat source......this mod helps dial in your preferences - especially for those who like lower temperature hits.

But of course, the further up the stem you move the bowl - the higher power that would be required for equivalent extraction. In this way, along with the session friendly operation, the Apollo comes the closest to being a portable log vaporizer that I've found so far.

But honestly, the best part of this mod is that the mod is all firmly in one piece (along with a one piece glass vapour path) and is very solid and won't come apart......and like the Solo stem mod, the vapour path is all glass with the silicone that seals against the lower herb chamber being completely outside of the vapour path.

Again......loading and unloading the Apollo with herb is very easily done by threading the mod through the top hole in the Apollo......which along with the silicone heat shield along the side of the unit also helps minimize burn hazards.

I think that this mod is the most solid version mod that I've done to date for the Apollo - although I do like the Solo stem mod too (in preference to the Air stem) since with the change in diameter tubing in the middle of the Apollo tube you can really see the vapour as it pours out of the end of the Solo stem and into the Apollo tube.

The original short Apollo tube - when it comes down to it - is just too short for the hot vapour that the Apollo produces - unless it is being pushed through water.

Since 14mm glass is so cheap, I think that this stem mod could easily be made into a manufacturers optional bowl offering that gears the Apollo more towards micro-dosing and having the built-in feature of being able to be hooked up to glass bubblers.

In addition, the longer 14mm glass (which can be made out of even longer 14mm glass stock) can also be used in a direct draw fashion with a tube size that is much more comfortable to use as well as offering the added draw restriction to help with controlling draw speed better under a higher level of negative pressure (i.e., vacuum).

Although it isn't all one piece borosilicate glass (although this too could be constructed by a glass blower) the mechanically connected two glass pieces act as one cohesive unit when connected together with silicone .....and the silicone is completely outside of the vapour path so that those sensitive to silicone should not be affected.

When I get my de-gummed hemp fiber, a little wad just above the screen will further help dial in the perfect draw restriction - as well as keeping the 14mm glass cleaner and providing a method of vaping your reclaim once the fiber is saturated with condensed resin.

I believe that this mod, the blocked bottom air intake, along with the silicon tubing slit lengthwise and wrapped around the edge of the Apollo (so that burn hazards are eliminated) are going to be my preferred mods with which to use the Apollo.

For those who like to have as little water involved as possible, the use of a small DHGate PNWT clone or the PV F-bomb can also help tame the heat of the vapour while preserving the most taste with the lesser amount of diffusion taking place.

The first person that suggested the use of an f-bomb sitting on top of an Apollo came from the guy who actually makes the f-bomb.

This happened when I dropped by PlanetVape to pick up an order of silicone tubing, I had brought my Apollo with me to show it off and the glass blower who works there (Ed) was looking at it and trying to think of a way to connect the Apollo tubing to glass and had suggested a 14mm male joint at the top of the Apollo tube then being hooked into an f-bomb.

However, since I was using the Solo stem mods with the stock 22mm tube being seated around the outside of a 19mm male joint ......this option wasn't available to me with that mod......and in any case, I much prefer the use of a full blown water bubbler since I almost exclusively vape at home.

Also, if I were to want to vape outside of the home, with the selection of vapes that I have (and incoming pre-orders) the Apollo is also not the vaporizer that I would be choosing to use.
 
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whatitdew

Vapes R Great
Really interested in this guy, VAS is killing me right now. Last vape was the Mighty purchased last Black Friday. I love it but it almost seems to extract too fast/easily unless packed to the brim.

How harsh is the vapor using stock stem?? Compared say to a Solo or Air?

I have semi bad lungs and vapor quality/harshness is a major factor for me.

For example I could not handle the vapor from the gaboof Alfa.

I really want one of these or a aromed but this guy seems a lot easier to upkeep and maintain.
With proper technique I should be able to get nice tasty vapor hits from this with minimal harshness correct??

Gonna spend some time and read through this forum...:sherlock:
 
whatitdew,

Vape Dr.

Well-Known Member
Here is a variation of @GTAVaper s solo stem mod using a Milaana long 18mm stem and 2 silicone O-rings.

This mod works 2 ways. Dry or with an 18mm water pipe.

Here it is dry.


The 18mm joint completely seals the top of the oven.






It is way cooler to the touch than the SS crucible than with the stainless steel crucible. You can literally hold the glass chamber while vaping at 40% if you want.


Nice flavor and vapor.


Nice ABV and much smoother too with the narrower air path. This was 6 huge draws at 40% no boost.



Now if you flip the stem upside down and put the screen in the mouth piece it works perfect with a water pipe.


The mouth piece side seals in the heater perfectly too.


Stands firmly in a water pipe and milks them up quickly.


Nice ABV at 40% no boost. I got 3 nice milky chambers from a basket full.

I like it a lot. RBT Milaana 18mm stem mod. It works awesome dry with a much cooler draw, and through big water pipes too!

Using the 18mm joint as a mouth piece works awesome too!:tup:
This way you have the best of both worlds.:)
 
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