The "Project" DIY Herbal Vaporizer
- Thread starter Pipes
- Start date
Nice looking unit. No TCR support but supports EScribe software for setting it up. No experience with this so it's unknown waters.
Wish the DNA chipsets would come with a larger display. Has also been the hold back for me.
I might try this one out for my ecig habit though as does look very nice. But that will be down the road a bit as I presently have a 2/3 on order.
@fluffhead,
-Yes, any 14mm joint will work. It's getting the screen in place that becomes finicky. The provided joint is cut down to accommodate a 510 stem which give back support for the screen.
- Play around with it and familiarize yourself with the menus and features. Install seat-belts.
-You could always read through the "myevic" documentation to learn more about what/how the TCR functions and their firmware.
A FAQ would a good idea and had intended to make one up once questions started to get repetitive but seems we haven't gotten there yet. Funny how such a simple device can get complicated. But as mentioned earlier. it's the driving mod that's doing most of the complex work.
Happy New Years to all and your families. Let it be a prosperous one.
Wish the DNA chipsets would come with a larger display. Has also been the hold back for me.
I might try this one out for my ecig habit though as does look very nice. But that will be down the road a bit as I presently have a 2/3 on order.
@fluffhead,
- Between lg hg2 vs samsung 25r, which would be the preferred battery for this application? I seem to be limited in my reasonably priced choices as Canada has changed the laws on shipping 18650s.
- How is the bowl set up on the glass version? Would any 14mm joint work?
- Once my cuboid comes, what can I do to prepare it before my project atomizers come?
- Aside from re-reading this thread (which I plan on doing), what else can I read to understand this whole thing better?
-Yes, any 14mm joint will work. It's getting the screen in place that becomes finicky. The provided joint is cut down to accommodate a 510 stem which give back support for the screen.
- Play around with it and familiarize yourself with the menus and features. Install seat-belts.
-You could always read through the "myevic" documentation to learn more about what/how the TCR functions and their firmware.
A FAQ would a good idea and had intended to make one up once questions started to get repetitive but seems we haven't gotten there yet. Funny how such a simple device can get complicated. But as mentioned earlier. it's the driving mod that's doing most of the complex work.
Happy New Years to all and your families. Let it be a prosperous one.
natural farmer
Well-Known Member
Aahh, you mean no on-board menus right?
fluffhead
Recovering Idealist
Thanks for the replies and Happy New Year to you as well! I can help with an faq as I am a noob to this mod stuff and am trying to gather the info. I already have some ideas of what could go into it.
- I am interested in the hg2 which are listed as 35A peak and 20A continuous. I believe people have mentioned that they use them with their project. I don't need the best but I am trying to balance cost with battery life. Its especially hard since fast tech and now gear best won't ship 18650s to Canada.
- I wonder if the ddave 14mm stem would be good for the glass project. Does anyone know where to get basket screens that fit in a 14mm male joint similar to an elbow screen?
- I will definitely familiarize myself with the cuboid. I assume I should install the myevic firmware prior to getting to know the cuboid.
Totally unscientific, anecdotal evidence alert...
My samsung 25r batteries were on 93% this 'morning' (2.30pm) when I first hit the Eraser on a full load with a few dabs of bho added. I've been hitting it all day, temp stepping from 190c. Refilled the load at about 8pm, batteries were down to 10% by midnite.
10 hours or so on one pair of batteries? Thats pretty damn good as far as Im concerned
My samsung 25r batteries were on 93% this 'morning' (2.30pm) when I first hit the Eraser on a full load with a few dabs of bho added. I've been hitting it all day, temp stepping from 190c. Refilled the load at about 8pm, batteries were down to 10% by midnite.
10 hours or so on one pair of batteries? Thats pretty damn good as far as Im concerned
rabblerouser
Combustion Fucker
Totally unscientific, anecdotal evidence alert...
My samsung 25r batteries were on 93% this 'morning' (2.30pm) when I first hit the Eraser on a full load with a few dabs of bho added. I've been hitting it all day, temp stepping from 190c. Refilled the load at about 8pm, batteries were down to 10% by midnite.
10 hours or so on one pair of batteries? Thats pretty damn good as far as Im concerned
I haven't done the legwork and read battery reports, but just on specs those Samsung 25r are 2500maH, while the LG hg2 are 3000maH...
that was what i based buying the LGs on, but there is most likely more to it than that.
Joaon
Well-Known Member
Here is a post of mine in the Crafty thread, when I had one and was searching to change it battery:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-crafty-by-storz-bickel.15984/page-329#post-1026820
A quick recap' : HG2 OR VTC6 GENUINE is the way to go !
25r are okay, but not the 'best'.
Actually 10 hours on a couple of batteries is pretty damn good @emmdeemo , you 're right
Can't wait to join you !
(Have I already said that? really? Ow ..)
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-crafty-by-storz-bickel.15984/page-329#post-1026820
A quick recap' : HG2 OR VTC6 GENUINE is the way to go !
25r are okay, but not the 'best'.
Actually 10 hours on a couple of batteries is pretty damn good @emmdeemo , you 're right
Can't wait to join you !
(Have I already said that? really? Ow ..)
natural farmer
Well-Known Member
The Project has completely taken over as my daily driver! Vapcap just sits there most of the time waiting for a rare moment to spice things up... Not sure where Milaana stands for now. I am waiting for her to come back from service so I can do a proper comparison but I really don't think she can match the Project... Project is Zion territory but cheaper, more durable, faster, smaller, stealthier.
Can't wait to try a smaller mod box eventually... I hope Pico can do the job... I am gonna go try one tomorrow.
Can't wait to try a smaller mod box eventually... I hope Pico can do the job... I am gonna go try one tomorrow.
Below is a cut/paste of the FAQ document so far. You can access the live version here.
Let me know what should be added or changed. @fluffhead has editing privileges and will also be contributing to the information.
Oh, @natural farmer, You made me break down and ordered that DNA75 for my ecig.
Couldn't resist the price.
Eraser FAQs
-Mod Boxes:
Not all boxes have been verified to work and different manufacturers incorporate differences in the behaviour of the heating algorithm. A programmable device with TCR capabilities is highly recommended.
Most boxes may work in a TC configuration and others can be run in power mode with some control via operator changing their airflow speed. The following are the recommended devices all proven to work well and have the same chip set as well as take the same firmware.
Really depends on one's needs and preference.
If stealth and size is critical, a single cell unit will do the job. Down side of the single is the battery life is shorter and the last 20% charge is generally not used as performance can start to drop and one will change out the cell for a fresh one.
A dual or triple cell setup will give much more life before changing the cells is needed. A dual cell setup will give about 2.5X the battery life than the single cell. This is do to it can easily be used right down to the change battery warning and beyond which starts at 10% remaining.
-Selecting your Batteries:
The Eraser does not require the most expensive batteries but a rating of at least 25 amperes is recommended. Note, that if the mod box is a single cell unit, a higher rating will give more usefulness at lower battery levels. Since the Mod device has safety circuits installed, flat top non protected batteries are required.
-Firmware:
The Mod boxes above will all take the same “open source” firmware called “myevic.bin” and has a couple very desirable options over the manufacturer's firmware. All the firmware information can be found here.
-Relevant Firmware Settings:
For realistic temperature numbers up .55X ohm to .600 ohm for starting point and calibrate further later. Turn Check to “off”. Zero all will force a re-read of actual ohms.
Note that manual entered ohms must be within 10% of actual read ohms or settings will change back when used. Including the check to “on”.
Don’t forget to turn the temp down to around 380F after you manually upped the ohms.
After you alter the ohms by adding .04 ohms, the TCR should be changed to 185 or 190 to help the temperature hold true. If using without changing the ohms and working in the upper temperature numbers, set to 145.
Set up 15 second timeout and ensure Algo is off.
Access this setting if going to use NFE software.
-Disassembly:
Screw the Eraser into the mod with batteries removed.
Pull up on the silicone jacket from the bottom to avoid tearing of the silicone.
Do not squeeze the center portion as the screen will deform. The screen relies on the oven for support.
The steel oven can then be pulled off. Careful not to damage the coil.
To reassemble the oven, moistening the O rings helps if it feels too tight.
-Screen Insertion:
The screen resides in the silicon sleeve inside a wide slot to accommodate it.
To install, hold the sleeve and squeeze it together to make the round hole oval so the screen will fit down into the sleeve.
With the screen position at the wide slot, start to flip to screen into position at the same time as releasing pressure to to sleeve.
Once in the groove, inserting the oven should push it flat against the top of the slot.
Use the stem to flatten if needed.
-Drifting Ohm Measurements:
Make sure the ohms is locked in device setup.
Do initial measurement with mod unlocked and coil at room temperature and remember this measured number for future reference. Generally between .55 and .56 ohm.
Avoid removing atomizer.
If using “myevic” or other third party firmware, turn off ohms checking.
-Device Warnings:
*No Atomizer:
You have an open circuit.
Ensure 510 connector is clean and clear of debris.
Examine the coil for breaks.
Make sure the nut is tight and coil is firmly mounted.
*Atomizer Too Low:
You have a short.
Check bottom of Eraser for debris in the 510 that might be causing a short.
Examine coil for shorts to the outer steel sides.
Remove heater casing and see if short goes away.
Check condition of nylon insulator on bolt post.
Lastly, loosen bolt and re-position the lower coil connection.
Let me know what should be added or changed. @fluffhead has editing privileges and will also be contributing to the information.
Oh, @natural farmer, You made me break down and ordered that DNA75 for my ecig.
Couldn't resist the price.Eraser FAQs
-Mod Boxes:
Not all boxes have been verified to work and different manufacturers incorporate differences in the behaviour of the heating algorithm. A programmable device with TCR capabilities is highly recommended.
Most boxes may work in a TC configuration and others can be run in power mode with some control via operator changing their airflow speed. The following are the recommended devices all proven to work well and have the same chip set as well as take the same firmware.
- eVic VTC Mini
- eVic VTC Dual
- eVic VTwo Mini
- eVic VTwo
- eVic AIO
- eVic Basic
- eGrip II / Light
- Cuboid
- Cuboid Mini
- Wismec Presa TC75W
- Wismec Presa TC100W
- Wismec Reuleaux RX75
- Wismec Reuleaux RX200S
- Wismec Reuleaux RX2/3
- Wismec Reuleaux RXmini
Really depends on one's needs and preference.
If stealth and size is critical, a single cell unit will do the job. Down side of the single is the battery life is shorter and the last 20% charge is generally not used as performance can start to drop and one will change out the cell for a fresh one.
A dual or triple cell setup will give much more life before changing the cells is needed. A dual cell setup will give about 2.5X the battery life than the single cell. This is do to it can easily be used right down to the change battery warning and beyond which starts at 10% remaining.
-Selecting your Batteries:
The Eraser does not require the most expensive batteries but a rating of at least 25 amperes is recommended. Note, that if the mod box is a single cell unit, a higher rating will give more usefulness at lower battery levels. Since the Mod device has safety circuits installed, flat top non protected batteries are required.
-Firmware:
The Mod boxes above will all take the same “open source” firmware called “myevic.bin” and has a couple very desirable options over the manufacturer's firmware. All the firmware information can be found here.
-Relevant Firmware Settings:
For realistic temperature numbers up .55X ohm to .600 ohm for starting point and calibrate further later. Turn Check to “off”. Zero all will force a re-read of actual ohms.
Note that manual entered ohms must be within 10% of actual read ohms or settings will change back when used. Including the check to “on”.
Don’t forget to turn the temp down to around 380F after you manually upped the ohms.
After you alter the ohms by adding .04 ohms, the TCR should be changed to 185 or 190 to help the temperature hold true. If using without changing the ohms and working in the upper temperature numbers, set to 145.
Set up 15 second timeout and ensure Algo is off.
Access this setting if going to use NFE software.
-Disassembly:
Screw the Eraser into the mod with batteries removed.
Pull up on the silicone jacket from the bottom to avoid tearing of the silicone.
Do not squeeze the center portion as the screen will deform. The screen relies on the oven for support.
The steel oven can then be pulled off. Careful not to damage the coil.
To reassemble the oven, moistening the O rings helps if it feels too tight.
-Screen Insertion:
The screen resides in the silicon sleeve inside a wide slot to accommodate it.
To install, hold the sleeve and squeeze it together to make the round hole oval so the screen will fit down into the sleeve.
With the screen position at the wide slot, start to flip to screen into position at the same time as releasing pressure to to sleeve.
Once in the groove, inserting the oven should push it flat against the top of the slot.
Use the stem to flatten if needed.
-Drifting Ohm Measurements:
Make sure the ohms is locked in device setup.
Do initial measurement with mod unlocked and coil at room temperature and remember this measured number for future reference. Generally between .55 and .56 ohm.
Avoid removing atomizer.
If using “myevic” or other third party firmware, turn off ohms checking.
-Device Warnings:
*No Atomizer:
You have an open circuit.
Ensure 510 connector is clean and clear of debris.
Examine the coil for breaks.
Make sure the nut is tight and coil is firmly mounted.
*Atomizer Too Low:
You have a short.
Check bottom of Eraser for debris in the 510 that might be causing a short.
Examine coil for shorts to the outer steel sides.
Remove heater casing and see if short goes away.
Check condition of nylon insulator on bolt post.
Lastly, loosen bolt and re-position the lower coil connection.
Last edited:
natural farmer
Well-Known Member
Because people getting the Project are cured from VAS and don't bother with FC much any more??? 
Because Pipes is lazy enough?
Because I can't seem to be able to put together a small workshop and make more of them???
I think @Pipes should team up with @RastaBuddhaTao and mass produce this together. For no more than 60$ hopefully...
Because Pipes is lazy enough?
Because I can't seem to be able to put together a small workshop and make more of them???
I think @Pipes should team up with @RastaBuddhaTao and mass produce this together. For no more than 60$ hopefully...
fluffhead
Recovering Idealist
Holy fuck @Pipes that is a lot more than what you had put on there when you initially showed me the document. That is amazing and will really help me (and others) understand what is happening here. I will be collecting more information to try to add as much as I can. Given the open source nature of the project, I will be putting together a few questions that I will ask of the people in this thread to get an idea of common usage of the project (settings, stems, etc.).Below is a cut/paste of the FAQ document so far. You can access the live version here.
Let me know what should be added or changed. @fluffhead has editing privileges and will also be contributing to the information.
Oh, @natural farmer, You made me break down and ordered that DNA75 for my ecig.
Eraser FAQs
-Mod Boxes:
Not all boxes have been verified to work and different manufacturers incorporate differences in the behaviour of the heating algorithm. A programmable device with TCR capabilities is highly recommended.
Most boxes may work in a TC configuration and others can be run in power mode with some control via operator changing their airflow speed. The following are the recommended devices all proven to work well and have the same chip set as well as take the same firmware.
-What number of Cells are Best:
- eVic VTC Mini
- eVic VTC Dual
- eVic VTwo Mini
- eVic VTwo
- eVic AIO
- eVic Basic
- eGrip II / Light
- Cuboid
- Cuboid Mini
- Wismec Presa TC75W
- Wismec Presa TC100W
- Wismec Reuleaux RX75
- Wismec Reuleaux RX200S
- Wismec Reuleaux RX2/3
- Wismec Reuleaux RXmini
Really depends on one's needs and preference.
If stealth and size is critical, a single cell unit will do the job. Down side of the single is the battery life is shorter and the last 20% charge is generally not used as performance can start to drop and one will change out the cell for a fresh one.
A dual or triple cell setup will give much more life before changing the cells is needed. A dual cell setup will give about 2.5X the battery life than the single cell. This is do to it can easily be used right down to the change battery warning and beyond which starts at 10% remaining.
-Selecting your Batteries:
The Eraser does not require the most expensive batteries but a rating of at least 25 amperes is recommended. Note, that if the mod box is a single cell unit, a higher rating will give more usefulness at lower battery levels. Since the Mod device has safety circuits installed, flat top non protected batteries are required.
-Firmware:
The Mod boxes above will all take the same “open source” firmware called “myevic.bin” and has a couple very desirable options over the manufacturer's firmware. All the firmware information can be found here.
-Relevant Firmware Settings:
For realistic temperature numbers up .55X ohm to .600 ohm for starting point and calibrate further later. Turn Check to “off”. Zero all will force a re-read of actual ohms.
Note that manual entered ohms must be within 10% of actual read ohms or settings will change back when used. Including the check to “on”.
Don’t forget to turn the temp down to around 380F after you manually upped the ohms.
After you alter the ohms by adding .04 ohms, the TCR should be changed to 185 or 190 to help the temperature hold true. If using without changing the ohms and working in the upper temperature numbers, set to 145.
Set up 15 second timeout and ensure Algo is off.
Access this setting if going to use NFE software.
-Disassembly:
Screw the Eraser into the mod with batteries removed.
Pull up on the silicone jacket from the bottom to avoid tearing of the silicone.
Do not squeeze the center portion as the screen will deform. The screen relies on the oven for support.
The steel oven can then be pulled off. Careful not to damage the coil.
To reassemble the oven, moistening the O rings helps if it feels too tight.
-Screen Insertion:
The screen resides in the silicon sleeve inside a wide slot to accommodate it.
To install, hold the sleeve and squeeze it together to make the round hole oval so the screen will fit down into the sleeve.
With the screen position at the wide slot, start to flip to screen into position at the same time as releasing pressure to to sleeve.
Once in the groove, inserting the oven should push it flat against the top of the slot.
Use the stem to flatten if needed.
-Drifting Ohm Measurements:
Make sure the ohms is locked in device setup.
Do initial measurement with mod unlocked and coil at room temperature and remember this measured number for future reference. Generally between .55 and .56 ohm.
Avoid removing atomizer.
If using “myevic” or other third party firmware, turn off ohms checking.
-Device Warnings:
*No Atomizer:
You have an open circuit.
Ensure 510 connector is clean and clear of debris.
Examine the coil for breaks.
Make sure the nut is tight and coil is firmly mounted.
*Atomizer Too Low:
You have a short.
Check bottom of Eraser for debris in the 510 that might be causing a short.
Examine coil for shorts to the outer steel sides.
Remove heater casing and see if short goes away.
Check condition of nylon insulator on bolt post.
Lastly, loosen bolt and re-position the lower coil connection.
I think the project thread on first glance can be intimidating to people who know nothing of box mods. There is a lot of information but no unified place for it, including what is or isn't outdated. You pretty much need to read the entire thread to get an understanding of it. As well, it is in DIY and not in the standard vape sections. I am hoping the faq can demystify the project and make it easier for people to get into. I believe the information that pipes provided above will definitely help me understand the project, and I assume for others as well.
ander
Well-Known Member
Reuleaux RX 2/3
Reuleaux RX 2/3
Thanks! I'd just figured it out when you replied
In other news... Im still constantly amazed at the quality of the flavours the Eraser releases. I made a special xmas blend of every variety I've saved bits of over the year. Probably about 6 different varieties ground up together.
Serious flavour explosion!
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Yes I think this is a liability for this vape, it's not doing it any justice... Furthermore you don't have much to "do it yourself" apart from configuring the mod... Once it's rolling it's rolling.
But if it was in the portable vapes section I guess @Pipes would have to get a real manufacturer account (not that it's really hard to get but maybe that's just not his intention and he is happy enough with the current situation?)
I am not in this for building up a business. It's a hobby and keeps me busy doing what I like best. I also have a full time career so finding a lot of time is not easy. Quite happy selling low quantities and staying within an enjoyable comfort zone. For the few that stumble upon my threads are enough to keep me busy.
Actually, having an "accessory maker" status has more freedom than that of a "manufactures" status. I can be more opinionated with all the rights of normal members but can still sell accessory type product. The reason for the stuff being in the DIY section, is simple. Anyone can acquire the "off the shelf" type parts and clone the process. No proprietary parts and nothing that will not still be available 20 years down the road.
I am also not judgmental for anyone taking advantage of what I bring to the table and go off making similar device(s). In fact would be flattered.
So no mystery, I never push or advertised these creations. The activity seems to happen in waves and when things get quiet, I do too.
Actually, having an "accessory maker" status has more freedom than that of a "manufactures" status. I can be more opinionated with all the rights of normal members but can still sell accessory type product. The reason for the stuff being in the DIY section, is simple. Anyone can acquire the "off the shelf" type parts and clone the process. No proprietary parts and nothing that will not still be available 20 years down the road.
I am also not judgmental for anyone taking advantage of what I bring to the table and go off making similar device(s). In fact would be flattered.
So no mystery, I never push or advertised these creations. The activity seems to happen in waves and when things get quiet, I do too.
Bvapst
Well-Known Member
I'm looking at this thread since @natural farmer told me I should keep an eye on here ..
Is there a waiting list ? I'm looking for a true stealth and portable solution which could satisfy me since a loooong time. taste always has been an issue with all those electronic conduction or convection vapes.
However I'm moving in another country in one month and not sure i'll be able to deliver anything there .. So how long to get the Eraser if ordered now as this is the main part ? Since anything else we could get in a ecig shop or online, right ?
Is there a waiting list ? I'm looking for a true stealth and portable solution which could satisfy me since a loooong time. taste always has been an issue with all those electronic conduction or convection vapes.
However I'm moving in another country in one month and not sure i'll be able to deliver anything there .. So how long to get the Eraser if ordered now as this is the main part ? Since anything else we could get in a ecig shop or online, right ?
I will have enough Erasers within a week to fill the current list. Can't guarantee getting it within a month though.. PM me to get on the list.
So for you VC lovers, a couple #110 O-rings will turn your Conduction VC into a Convection VC. Works Awesome!!!
I'll be including a couple of these rings upon request. No charge.
So for you VC lovers, a couple #110 O-rings will turn your Conduction VC into a Convection VC. Works Awesome!!!
I'll be including a couple of these rings upon request. No charge.
stickstones
Vapor concierge
requested!