At least you weren't a procrastinator about it
What a glowing endorsement for a product! Even if I didn't need one,I'd be snatching one up anyway. Sounds like you just use the FUCK out of these things!(Picturing a Ron Swanson type guy, just mulitmetering this shit outta stuff).
What a glowing endorsement for a product! Even if I didn't need one,I'd be snatching one up anyway. Sounds like you just use the FUCK out of these things!(Picturing a Ron Swanson type guy, just mulitmetering this shit outta stuff).
I know exactly where I'll be going tomorrow morning to buy $6.50 in quarters worth of multimeters.
I still won't know how to use it, but I am sure it will come with great instructions.
In my head I am already multimetering like nobodys business with my soon to be new tool...right there next to OF.
This is comedy gold! at least for us nerds. Thanks for the laugh!These look great. Is that a nichrome wire? And ceramic wick? Gonna be just like the micro g but with medical grade materials. Put me down for a few!LAyG cart on the left for Ophos, and on the right for the Omicron Light, Omicron V2.xx and Persei 3.7v setup.
@Porq, actually if it's the part I think your talking about, I'm pretty sure there NEEDS to be a gap in between the screw on collar part that holds the rod in place in the top chamber and the metal prongs that the heating rod goes into in the bottom chamber! If your not careful and u mess with the screws in the bottom teflon insulator, it could cause the rod to push further into the metal prongs, and if the metal from those prongs connects with the metal from the screw on collar that holds the rod into the top chamber, it will cause it to short and the batteries to get hot and vent. I blew both my old tops b4 I realized that that had to be what caused it! I always make sure that I insert the heating rod into the top chamber until the top silver part is in contact with the metal in the top chamber and then I tighten the collar really tight so the rod don't move at all. That's really important!! And then I screw the bottom chamber to the top chamber tightly, which should put the other silver part of the heating rod perfectly into place in contact with the bottom metal prongs. Then, if u followed my instructions correctly, u should be all set. It worked for me so I hope this helps u and everyone else out too.Never knew that. Mostly used it just for 3.7 anyways, was never much of a 7.4v user.
Could even a minor gap between This piece (the piece that the rod screws into to) and the black base cause a short? Though i believe it was fully assembled i never knew (the piece that the rod screws into with the white piece) could come out. The video was kind of fuzzy and hard to tell what everything is.
And now with the video (webcam September 3rd) watched over 5 times and the sr71 assembly watched about 5 as well, i reassembled the entire thing. Even before i retested with Multimeter (Commercial Electric model MAS830B [ red lead in center, black lead on right] {dial at 200 OHM})
It is reading out .3.
I have no fucking idea. But its rather irritating i blew the battery and screw cap. And its reading out below what it should. Maybe i messed up in the beginning, maybe i messed up now, or maybe its messed up.
I have the old stock 18350's and the original persei tube. I guess thats the next step. test on there and shit, maybe my luck will change. that or ill end up blowing my single top to add to tonight excitement.
