The Magic-Flight Box
- Thread starter magicflight
- Start date
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
Found a good deal on a used regular mflb. One thing to note, the negative on this used mflb seems loose, for sure will have to tighten before use.
The resistance measured out to around 0.125ohm. Didn't have much herb to test, but at around 20w you can pretty much take instant hits.
Will test more tomorrow.
The resistance measured out to around 0.125ohm. Didn't have much herb to test, but at around 20w you can pretty much take instant hits.
Will test more tomorrow.
1/8th of an ohm huh. That really makes a bad showing of the Powerex cells.
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
Yea, i'm probably gonna abuse test this one after a bit. I did have it up to 40w to burn stuff off screen and it didn't glow. I haven't adjusted the negative on this box yet though so have to see.
Don't see how this would harm your mflb more then aa or pa as long as you are not combusting and stuff.
Don't see how this would harm your mflb more then aa or pa as long as you are not combusting and stuff.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Funny enough, it is input limited. 24W is all I could get it to draw with the PA. 24W little-T-total input for the whole chain from the wall wart output.
The leads on the LED, or 'light', is what keeps the negative lead in place, as well as the spot welds on the screen. The lead wires are also welded to the rails. Loose rails could be a sign of failing lights. Well known issue removed from warranty.
The leads on the LED, or 'light', is what keeps the negative lead in place, as well as the spot welds on the screen. The lead wires are also welded to the rails. Loose rails could be a sign of failing lights. Well known issue removed from warranty.
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
Oh, on the muad dib I removed the light and wires cause I figured it would interfere with temp control. That's probably why that one was loose.
Works better though, I was gonna rig something up on that one for better custom screens and might need to remove the rails for that.
Edit: also, I didn't mean the rails were loose on the used mflb I got, meant the connection was loose, IE: didn't hold the "battery' as tight as I like. The adapter has no way of actually holding tight connections by itself, so tight negative is a must.
Edit: Oh, it does glow at 40w, but so even and light that can't tell until you look at under low light. https://i.imgur.com/1wbfWly.jpg Don't really think glowing is a problem. I remember my first mflb only had damage cause of build up that I didn't clean. This might actually be better for lazy people, instead of cleaning screen you can just burn off anything on the screen.
Edit: Was kinda worried that the extra power available would make people damage the screen, but I doubt it now unless you are really ignorant. Don't know the exact material of screen but likely 304 or 316l stainless steel. Non of these are able to be hardened by heat treatment. You can only anneal it..... it comes annealed already. Screen damage is more likely to be due to build up.
I ran it up to where I felt it was unsafe and screen would melt... around 80w. It glowed hard but don't show any signs of misuse. If anything it's getting rid of unwanted carbon build up. The carbon build up is what makes it brittle.
https://i.imgur.com/2NjjFaA.jpg See that white stuff? it's burning away months maybe years of buildup that would of been hard to get rid of before, like a self cleaning oven lol. I can just keep glowing the screen till it's clean as a whistle lol. Sorry, i mean within reason. 40w seems good, not the 80w I tried earlier.
Works better though, I was gonna rig something up on that one for better custom screens and might need to remove the rails for that.
Edit: also, I didn't mean the rails were loose on the used mflb I got, meant the connection was loose, IE: didn't hold the "battery' as tight as I like. The adapter has no way of actually holding tight connections by itself, so tight negative is a must.
Edit: Oh, it does glow at 40w, but so even and light that can't tell until you look at under low light. https://i.imgur.com/1wbfWly.jpg Don't really think glowing is a problem. I remember my first mflb only had damage cause of build up that I didn't clean. This might actually be better for lazy people, instead of cleaning screen you can just burn off anything on the screen.
Edit: Was kinda worried that the extra power available would make people damage the screen, but I doubt it now unless you are really ignorant. Don't know the exact material of screen but likely 304 or 316l stainless steel. Non of these are able to be hardened by heat treatment. You can only anneal it..... it comes annealed already. Screen damage is more likely to be due to build up.
I ran it up to where I felt it was unsafe and screen would melt... around 80w. It glowed hard but don't show any signs of misuse. If anything it's getting rid of unwanted carbon build up. The carbon build up is what makes it brittle.
https://i.imgur.com/2NjjFaA.jpg See that white stuff? it's burning away months maybe years of buildup that would of been hard to get rid of before, like a self cleaning oven lol. I can just keep glowing the screen till it's clean as a whistle lol. Sorry, i mean within reason. 40w seems good, not the 80w I tried earlier.
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TommyDee
Vaporitor
Oh, cell looseness... indeed, that is so the cushion can push the cell back and disconnect. They figured that when pushing the cell, you will also bias the cell to one side to make good contact. Older LB's were a little tighter.
40W to start glowing, cool. Then the Target mini won't blow it. Careful about heat around the o-ring. It is not silicon.
40W to start glowing, cool. Then the Target mini won't blow it. Careful about heat around the o-ring. It is not silicon.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Buna-n ...my replacement LB has a red silicon ring. The only reason I know this is that someone said something but I also noted how the PA v1.0 head use to hold in the original LB but in the more recent unit is just falls out.
If you want to tweak the loop, try a peen from the 'backside' of the box with the draw hole on the table. This might be able to develop a small kink in the ground part of the loop just under the cover. At least, that is where the weak part is that should buckle if you put pressure on the backside.
If you want to tweak the loop, try a peen from the 'backside' of the box with the draw hole on the table. This might be able to develop a small kink in the ground part of the loop just under the cover. At least, that is where the weak part is that should buckle if you put pressure on the backside.
Choices
Well-Known Member
I haven’t used the o-ring in years. My glyph stays put and I don’t have to constantly push on it. Will the PA using the Target Mini be okay without the o-ring?
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
He meant the o-ring around the screen. If your aa stays put it is a good sign. The mflb I designed and used the adapter with holds aa tight and holds the adapter even tighter. I got a mflb yesterday that was really loose, would not hold aa and barley the adapter. Any way it's not really a big deal, but requires extra attention.
Edit: Found a way to clamp down connections on test unit. https://i.imgur.com/Lv0RmNA.jpg I push together the whole thing for good positive connection and screw tight the negative. The negative is as tight as can be now. It actually measures around 0.1ohm now. I imagine it will go down even further when I get something to hold positive tight.
Edit: Found a way to clamp down connections on test unit. https://i.imgur.com/Lv0RmNA.jpg I push together the whole thing for good positive connection and screw tight the negative. The negative is as tight as can be now. It actually measures around 0.1ohm now. I imagine it will go down even further when I get something to hold positive tight.
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TommyDee
Vaporitor
@Choices - this is part of the adventure. I like what @scy123 did to make the MOD a "hard-wire" to the contacts. I have it in mind to 3D print a gadget to hold the fire button on the Target Mini 2 while modulating the contacts the way we are use to using the LB. @scy123 is also working on a way to lock the MOD in place with a latch so making contact with the LB itself will not be a concern so you are free to push the fire button. This is all speculation of course.
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
Connections are so tight now it temp controls like a boss. Mod is set to 350f and 80w max it can use. My flir is not accurate at these temps and not calibrated for accuracy, but you get the idea.
https://i.imgur.com/PSNdqlQ.mp4
https://i.imgur.com/PSNdqlQ.mp4
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scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
Best I could do to simulate a draw is to blow on the screen every now and then. https://i.imgur.com/HxonsNC.mp4 It is firing throughout video fyi.
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
Got a session vid here. Didn't want to tape my hobo self, and you probably do not want to watch unless you are interested. I forgot to get a shot, but it never combusted. Was hitting really nice near end, I couldn't finish it... was about half way maybe.
400f temp control and 80w max is the setting for this one.
400f temp control and 80w max is the setting for this one.
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
Forgot to mention, but if I was firing for even half that video (I only fired when taking a drag) Very high estimate is 45s of firing. Wattage maybe 20w, again very high estimate. My mod could fire 20w for 1h (I have (2) 11wh batteries)
Low estimates are I could do 80 of these sessions on a single charge.
It's very efficient, don't waste energy heating up or between pulls. It's vapor on demand.
Edit: decided to run a stress test to show it can keep up with the best of them. About 1min into this one I just chain vape like a mad man.
350f and 50w for this one.
Low estimates are I could do 80 of these sessions on a single charge.
It's very efficient, don't waste energy heating up or between pulls. It's vapor on demand.
Edit: decided to run a stress test to show it can keep up with the best of them. About 1min into this one I just chain vape like a mad man.
350f and 50w for this one.
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