The Magic-Flight Box
- Thread starter magicflight
- Start date
rizzoizzoz
Member
i tried to mod and almost burnt a hole in my finger holding it down lol
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Woe... for real - 2 Vaporesso Target Mini II arrived today for the insane price of $9.99 each plus Priority shipping. Looks like I need to go read some instructions. I'll be machining the tank to remove the 'cage'.
Can I dry-fire these Vaporesso coils? Could they be used in something like a log heater? Seems like a perfect purpose built little air heater. They do make some nice stuff!
Can I dry-fire these Vaporesso coils? Could they be used in something like a log heater? Seems like a perfect purpose built little air heater. They do make some nice stuff!
TommyDee
Vaporitor
There are a lot of parts to that VM Tank 22. With a careful look, I noted the 'cage' was pressed onto the body of the tank. A quick Dremel with the cutoff wheel and that was liberated. The top of the heater housing is right where the wire is in the LB/MD. And we have a nice shoulder screw to install a negative contact to. Could be a washer? Couldn't be simpler. The positive too is easy enough. The hole in the center of the screw is 4mm. I have a ton of 4mm OD Teflon tubing. I also have a ton of 2mm stainless steel bicycle spokes that will make a really nice positive contact. I might try copper first though.
edit; indeed!
A couple of pennies turned down to 14.5mm fits newer launch boxes nice and snug. 3 pennies didn't fit so I faced the ID of the one on the housing side. I removed all the o-rings, added a 4mm OD x 2mm ID Teflon tube. The vape tool is a bike spoke, I have a copper tube that I want to try first. That will need shrink tubing.
Took me a while to get past that menu. That is a lot of UI packed into that little power pack!
edit; indeed!
A couple of pennies turned down to 14.5mm fits newer launch boxes nice and snug. 3 pennies didn't fit so I faced the ID of the one on the housing side. I removed all the o-rings, added a 4mm OD x 2mm ID Teflon tube. The vape tool is a bike spoke, I have a copper tube that I want to try first. That will need shrink tubing.
Took me a while to get past that menu. That is a lot of UI packed into that little power pack!
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Choices
Well-Known Member
I got my tank, my Target Mini 2, but I don’t have the proper pencil stem or steel rod to finish it. Would a trimmed galvanized nail of the proper diameter work? This may be a weekend project...
scy123
Trusted Member Don't Worry
Galvanized is bad when heated I would not use it. A 5mm or 4mm stainless steel screw cut to size would be better. You have to find a way to hold it in though. I tried a few layers of heat shrink but it was kinda wobbly and I did not like it.
Also grind the ends a bit for better contact.
Also grind the ends a bit for better contact.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
You might consider a less crusty type of nail than galvanized but yes, a nail could do it. I used a bicycle spoke which I know to be stainless steel. I also suggested a coat-hanger wire but you need to scrape off the coating.
If you have access to some o-rings, that may work to stabilize the rod in the assembly.
If you have access to some o-rings, that may work to stabilize the rod in the assembly.
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Midnight Toker
That is not a drug, it’s a plant.....
Time for an update. Got the new cells and prep'd the one wire I had ready. This is the fused version. I put the wooden disks on the ends of the cell but quickly found no way to charge it yet so I pulled them.
This version has advantages and downsides but it is quite functional. As stated before, I wanted to move the wire to the 'backside' to give more variability to hand-size. That part worked. The robustness of the wire junction is somewhat dubious. That needs work. But overall, this is nice. I did note the little extra resistance from the brass.
This solution has two modes believe it or not. One is the 'peak charge' and the other is 'normal charge'. There really is a difference! Normal charge will work as any other well charged Glyph cell. Peak here is enough to really cook the first trench and to finish off that last harsh bit of vape just before all goes black.
It's comfortable to hold and shake and futz with the box and if needed, easy to detach.
MF... I hope someone there is watching thisI don't want to have to make these
And as analytical data goes... it turns out that a full trench can take as much as 2000mah of energy. That is 2 amps of power being consumed for 60 minutes. Or 20 amps of power for 6 minutes. These cells are rated for 4200mah but that is at a lower current. At our draw rate, you are lucky to get 2500mah out of these cells. I did ask for that data but the only thing they could tell me is that these cells are rated for a 30 amp draw continuously.
Still lovin' the LB! Got the VapCap for education purposes and it has its place even in my collection. But for shear volume, taste, control, and convenience... I find myself asking "...what happened?". Why is the LB a vape people love to hate? I still see the LB as having the densest screen of any of the offerings I've looked at. It is my sincere belief that this option can bring a lot of LB's from the closets. Anyone interested in giving it a try and take on manufacturing of something like this? eBay is still hot on the LB and MF in general. Happy to collaborate to a final design.
Love the simplicity of this adapter. Something like this would definitely get me to using the MFLB again on a regular basis. Lol where do I sign up to buy one?
Midnight Toker
That is not a drug, it’s a plant.....
Lol unfortunately I am all thumbs and skill less at that kinda thing so a diy solution isn't really an option for me. Building, fixing or repairing were the domains of the ex. Spending money for what I need has always been more my domain.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
I'd be all over it if I didn't have a whole shitload of other things to do. However I am here to say it works wonders! And I continue to advocate on your behalf and others to wake MF up to some common sense. The LB is still a wonderful hitter with nuances far surpassing the infamous VC.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Okay, this thread went silent for some reason. I'm having one problem with my setup and I am not sure why but the issue is familiar.
I know I am cheating using pennies as conductors and that could explain one problem but not the other. Basically I am having way too much contact resistance. The copper 'slug' of pennies gets hot! Not just warm, 'don't touch this!' hot. The same is true at the positive end. That is stainless steel on stainless steel, also hot.
Until I make the right sleeve, I have to maintain contact pressure which is not the most comfortable.
How do I like the session? It simply rocks! I almost want to hard-wire a MOD to the LB now! This Target Mini II is something else in the control it provides. Thanks for pointing it out @scy123 . I cannot even begin to go through all its built-in capabilities.
The Tenergy cell with the puck is still doing DD duty. Until I make the MOD connection more reliable I will stick with this, riding the discharge curve. If you recall, I had a similar heat-related issue with the fuse (positive contact) getting very hot. Copper connections are staying cool.
@scy123 - do you get heat on the positive contact?
I know I am cheating using pennies as conductors and that could explain one problem but not the other. Basically I am having way too much contact resistance. The copper 'slug' of pennies gets hot! Not just warm, 'don't touch this!' hot. The same is true at the positive end. That is stainless steel on stainless steel, also hot.
Until I make the right sleeve, I have to maintain contact pressure which is not the most comfortable.
How do I like the session? It simply rocks! I almost want to hard-wire a MOD to the LB now! This Target Mini II is something else in the control it provides. Thanks for pointing it out @scy123 . I cannot even begin to go through all its built-in capabilities.
The Tenergy cell with the puck is still doing DD duty. Until I make the MOD connection more reliable I will stick with this, riding the discharge curve. If you recall, I had a similar heat-related issue with the fuse (positive contact) getting very hot. Copper connections are staying cool.
@scy123 - do you get heat on the positive contact?
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Alrightythen... Copper! I replaced the stainless steel center post with a copper tube, 1/8" OD. Also noticed that I seated the negative contact at the outer edge of the pennies. I left this post a little longer to get a better hold on the LB-loop. The nice thing is that the Vaporesso 510 adapter has a gold plated rivet in the bottom with a hole about 2.9mm ID. A small grind and a taper on the end of the copper tube and it is a contact worthy of of 20 amps! The other end of this rivet is the MOD contact 
I now read 0.08 ohms. Definitely need copper on the minus side too. The VT 22 tank has a screw with a 4mm hole through the center. Perfect mount and electrical contact.
As a product, a properly insulated pin push-fit into the rivet of the VT-22 510 adapter. Then a copper adapter that becomes the negative terminal; Pipe with a copper flange tucked inside and silver-soldered. Now you got a trick adapter for the LB.
Oh, and it maintains contact better now too. A sleeve to represent the cell helps. Mine is a bit wonky but the new copper positive electrode makes reliable contact even if it is off center.
Edit:
Since this is not readily available about the Target Mini II... and since I just typed all this out in PM... I'm still impressed with what they packed into this thing!
Temperature range: 200-600F.
Watt range: 5-50
Voltage range: 0.5 - 8.5
Normal resistance range: 0.05-5 ohm, extended range is 0.03-5 ohm*.
MODES;
VW-H VW-N VW-S - Variable Wattage High/Normal/Soft
CCW - Custom Curve - Wattage
SP - Super Player - * this let's you go to 0.03 ohm
VV - Variable Voltage
CCV - Custom Curve - Voltage
SS/NI/TI - Variable temp control - stainless/nickle/titanium
M1/M2 Temperature Coefficient of Resistance [TCR] (enter your own values)
BP - ByPass - direct cell output
SET - Misc. housekeeping settings including auto on/off being optional.
...okay now! For an absolutely proper bake I was able to use the TI variable temp mode at 20W from 370-390F. That was a very easy darkening of the ABV. I think the curve can be tweaked but close enough for a first go. 400F got scary close to combusting.
Turns out I got the positive contact pressure I needed.
If you go back to that image with the copper slugs, the rounded edge toward the MOD is where contact is being made with the, get this, 'rounded' rail loop. The geometry forms a spherical connection with pressure towards positive contact. No more holding the box!
Had readings as low as 0.07 ohms. The connections are staying much cooler too since I limited the power.
As for the power of the Launch Box. I've been here for ten pages pumping the LB highlighting its one shortcoming - cells - ease of use - more expenses. PA and all the wires is the only way to get enough power to a Launch Box! And that is just raw power. Not for the passionate vaper that needs on-the-go convenience in their lives.
In this last 10 pages we have seen, at least I have experienced, the cell upgrade that puts the convenience back into the LB. A little work and Magic Flight could make a revival upgrade. And many thanks and lots of patience from @scy123 or his excellent contribution of showing a MOD can 'conveniently' power a Launch Box and have serious control. That is definitely unique in the world of Launch Boxes in my book. A breakthrough, dare I say
I simply got lucky in the spring loaded contact when I plug in the MOD adapter. There are two styles of Launch boxes. If you have an old Launch Box, it will require slightly different tweaks. I like the hardware provided by Vaporesso. The upgrade kit along with this dedicated MOD kit can be 2 or 3 simple parts.
I now read 0.08 ohms. Definitely need copper on the minus side too. The VT 22 tank has a screw with a 4mm hole through the center. Perfect mount and electrical contact.
As a product, a properly insulated pin push-fit into the rivet of the VT-22 510 adapter. Then a copper adapter that becomes the negative terminal; Pipe with a copper flange tucked inside and silver-soldered. Now you got a trick adapter for the LB.
Oh, and it maintains contact better now too. A sleeve to represent the cell helps. Mine is a bit wonky but the new copper positive electrode makes reliable contact even if it is off center.
Edit:
Since this is not readily available about the Target Mini II... and since I just typed all this out in PM... I'm still impressed with what they packed into this thing!
Temperature range: 200-600F.
Watt range: 5-50
Voltage range: 0.5 - 8.5
Normal resistance range: 0.05-5 ohm, extended range is 0.03-5 ohm*.
MODES;
VW-H VW-N VW-S - Variable Wattage High/Normal/Soft
CCW - Custom Curve - Wattage
SP - Super Player - * this let's you go to 0.03 ohm
VV - Variable Voltage
CCV - Custom Curve - Voltage
SS/NI/TI - Variable temp control - stainless/nickle/titanium
M1/M2 Temperature Coefficient of Resistance [TCR] (enter your own values)
BP - ByPass - direct cell output
SET - Misc. housekeeping settings including auto on/off being optional.
...okay now! For an absolutely proper bake I was able to use the TI variable temp mode at 20W from 370-390F. That was a very easy darkening of the ABV. I think the curve can be tweaked but close enough for a first go. 400F got scary close to combusting.
Turns out I got the positive contact pressure I needed.
If you go back to that image with the copper slugs, the rounded edge toward the MOD is where contact is being made with the, get this, 'rounded' rail loop. The geometry forms a spherical connection with pressure towards positive contact. No more holding the box!
Had readings as low as 0.07 ohms. The connections are staying much cooler too since I limited the power.
As for the power of the Launch Box. I've been here for ten pages pumping the LB highlighting its one shortcoming - cells - ease of use - more expenses. PA and all the wires is the only way to get enough power to a Launch Box! And that is just raw power. Not for the passionate vaper that needs on-the-go convenience in their lives.
In this last 10 pages we have seen, at least I have experienced, the cell upgrade that puts the convenience back into the LB. A little work and Magic Flight could make a revival upgrade. And many thanks and lots of patience from @scy123 or his excellent contribution of showing a MOD can 'conveniently' power a Launch Box and have serious control. That is definitely unique in the world of Launch Boxes in my book. A breakthrough, dare I say
I simply got lucky in the spring loaded contact when I plug in the MOD adapter. There are two styles of Launch boxes. If you have an old Launch Box, it will require slightly different tweaks. I like the hardware provided by Vaporesso. The upgrade kit along with this dedicated MOD kit can be 2 or 3 simple parts.
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