I couldn't help but get onboard here and chime in...
I've been very rarely on here ever since I surrendered to buying at least 2 hoppers... Before that, I would get Hopper Withdrawal Syndrome and you all would talk me off the ledge.
But even as I continue to manage to keep 2 hoppers running everyday (one that works shitty, the other that seems to have more heat than it should. Meanwhile, two friends who bought one on my recommendation
each had failures within the first month, and they are still waiting now for over 5 months for them to come back. It also gives me anxiety about losing my own hoppers. I don't want to feel that way anymore!
Coincidentally (?), I recently discovered that the oils for vape pens are available in a lot of different strains...
I know next to nothing about these products, but I'm reading up. There are cartridges that have no additives (if you can find a medical care provider, bingo), and I've seen like 23 strain labels. And each cartridge is labeled with the breakdown ratio. I know I must be stating the obvious to many here, sorry, don't wanna sound like a newb, but I'm quite naive on regarding this type of the cannabis experience.
If this all checks out, and I can truly obtain strain-based, non-additive oils, then I may outgrow my need for daily use of the Hopper... maybe even completely if the high is as full-spectrum as using flower. I do love the flower.
The use of Deoxit was discussed often and at length much earlier in this thread. Folks were using it to clean the threads on the back end and the body. It seems like it fell out of favor quickly. I think that HL may have advised against it.
Does anyone think that maybe it's just screwing and unscrewing the back end that may be changing the way the Hopper works? Some users have posted that they adjust how tightly the back end is screwed on and the Hopper starts working better. I've tried unscrewing and removing the back end each time I fill the chamber and it seems to help a little. I know that when my oldest SS Hopper starts "acting up" (takes a long time to get blue lights, weaker hits) I will unscrew and remove the back end, screw it back on, and it goes to blue in under 5 seconds.
The use of DeToxit is completely the RIGHT thing to do. HL did not "not recommend" it, though I'm sure they didn't "recommend" it either. Nor did they have a problem with Blue-Tac. I still use both of these items. DeToxit maybe monthly, and Blue-tac on the battery threads every time I replace a battery. Easy Breezy.
On unscrewing and screwing the backend... I've witnessed this "apparent" thing myself, and I do think that the tightness and smoothness of the fitted threads is extremely important. This junction is THE only connection the battery has to complete the circuit. You will invariably notice a hotter back end when this connection isn't well-made.
I'm thinking about getting some thermal paste for the barrel terminal. Just put some on the button (tiny bit) I've noticed the golden contact film is now silver ? Any one try this? I used to bake Mac book gpu chips and add thermal paste to"reflow" the chip.. worked so maybe it will be similiar
Come on 6 dollar fix! 99.9% silver
... didn't have any laying around so I'll come back in a few days and let you know if it's working again.
FuckRMA
Edit :
@Foghorn I think it does have something to do with the twisting of the battery against terminals. In my case at least
Is this a conductive grease? or a THERMAL grease? It can't be a thermal grease... Thermal grease is not necessarily conductive. Nonetheless, I definitely don't recommend this... This topic had been addressed back in the DeToxit days of conversation, like over a year plus.... Do not gunk the threads with anything. Keep them clean, and use Detoxit. You won't get a better connection.