Bdubbdiblets
Well-Known Member
Anyone know if new batts being sent are all GHB2's? And has anyone noticed a significant difference? As I'm sure everyone has similar sentiments, my 5 GHB1's are all crud..
They haven't been available long enough to know. I have some arring soon, all of my batteries are of poor quality now too, lasting only a bowl or two.Anyone know if new batts being sent are all GHB2's? And has anyone noticed a significant difference? As I'm sure everyone has similar sentiments, my 5 GHB1's are all crud..
I thought I read somewhere that GHL said all hoppers are now being shipped with GHB2s. Can't find that in any of the updates from the last few months and I may be confusing that with the V2.0 charger, but the hoppers I received last week both contained GHB2s and the three spares I received were 2s as well.Anyone know if new batts being sent are all GHB2's? And has anyone noticed a significant difference? As I'm sure everyone has similar sentiments, my 5 GHB1's are all crud..
Actually, your friend was on the right track, but it was in the opposite direction. loli talked to a tool maker and he thought that those grey-black specs that blutac picks up could be causing arcing (heat) given the amount of power this thing can generate.
They haven't been available long enough to know. I have some arring soon, all of my batteries are of poor quality now too, lasting only a bowl or two.
It's possible GHB2 simply refers to a second batch, where hopefully there's a bit more QA along the production process, but they'll probably also only last as long. We'll have to wait and see
How many GHB1s have you noticed that with? My batch of 8 had very slight size variance with one noticeably chunky because it did that.I actually notice that the GHB1 catches the threads ever so slightly more than the GHB2. That is the only difference I can tell.
Also galling, especially with the Ti (tiny oxidised particles caused by friction).The black stuff is oxidation caused by voltage drops across those threads
The sound you are hearing is the circuit board distributing power from the battery to the heat oven using a process called Pulse Width Modulation to control the oven accurately to precision temperature. Those of you who had the Ascent might already be used to this sound. The Ascent was a larger device so the boards we're deeper inside and my not have been as audible until now. You are starting to see more and more vapes have this sound because more and more vapes are starting to offer precision temperature control.
Been wondering about this. I've recently been using PBW for glass and one other thing I wondered about was that I maybe should not attempt soaking/cleaning a Mighty's C/u with the stuff. Any thoughts on that?And one last thing worth mentioning, I tried using PBW to clean the hoppers mouthpiece.
It works really well and is quick and super easy.
Initially I rinsed the MP under a hot tap and crudely scraped the screen with a pipe tool
Then I soaked the MP in boiling water/PBW solution for a minute or two
Gave it a shake everynow and then for best results
Finally rinsed thoroughly with hot tap water.
Some bits will get trapped by the threads, a pipe cleaner or tool will help dislodge them and after 3 minutes the MP is nearly perfectly clean and ready to use.
I find soaking in IPA requires 10+ minutes and it definitely doesn't clean as thoroughly, for instance the screen usually remains discoloured. PBW strips it right back.
"Consistent replication of results?" When I took lab sciences back when we were inventing dirt, we didn't call that the "Scientific Method", we called it "cheating". The smoother the graph, the more massaging of the data.What I mean to address is the lack of Scientific Method (maybe they've changed the name, idk). One of the tenets is consistent replication of results, as in, look, this "B" happens every time this other thing "A" happens. Anything less is to be taken with a grain or two of salt and require further study. I'm not suggesting that members stop trying this or that; sometimes great ideas are those stumbled upon. But it was in science class I learned the meaning of 'superstitious behavior'. No way have we (nor could we have) done enough here to keep the twain from meeting.
There are accounts of it working very well and easily for the Mighty/Crafty CU in the PBW thread. Very much the recommendable way to clean, PBW is safe on most materials, even hands. Though it can have a pH of 12 @1% concentration.Been wondering about this. I've recently been using PBW for glass and one other thing I wondered about was that I maybe should not attempt soaking/cleaning a Mighty's C/u with the stuff. Any thoughts on that?
When cleaning Hopper mp, are you removing the screen and inner pieces? I'm hoping for a method that doesn't require this. One mp I have has not allowed me to remove screen ever. A pair of CVS precision tweezers broke - a small piece of one point- in the effort (don't know my own strength!). I tried repeatedly heat from blow dryer and alcohol. Other mp is just the opposite, once every several days it needs to be snugged down.
A further, open question. When mp parts are disassembled, the screen is attached to a 'plastic-looking' funnel like thing and I have trouble cleaning the gunk I can see between the two near the edges. I really don't want to separate the two from concern I'll never get the little tabs locked back down well. Will the PWB/boiling water get all clean, together? Compressed air help? Any other suggestions?
Anyone know if new batts being sent are all GHB2's? And has anyone noticed a significant difference? As I'm sure everyone has similar sentiments, my 5 GHB1's are all crud..
GHB1 or GHB2Maybe I missed this simple part, but how are we distinguishing between 1's & 2's?
I finally got my 4 spares and see no physical or marked difference and my Opus charger shows them all to me nominally acceptable out of the box (most max out about 4.05v) after a charge/discharge cycle. Very disappointing....
Mooch did a great job...I don't frequent Reddit so thanks for posting over here. Very interesting and seems a great simple lead for GHL to follow in their product improvement efforts (that is, better quality batteries!).IMR's are Li-Ion. Because they just say LI-Ion and thats all they could be any chemistry. But because of the application, high drainage, high amps and high temp the only real logical choice would be IMR. They would be foolish not to. And as I said before looking at the pic of the vented GHB battery it looks like a IMR vented battery. There would be more black burnt casing and wrapping if not. I have personally seen vented ICR and IMR batteries (my buddy's experimentation with exploding batteries) and you can tell the two apart. ICR's and other non-safe chemistry are more damaging and go thermal. The vape world uses IMR. The Crafty, FM and most others use IMR's.
But we will never know unless GH says something. We already know from Mooche's testing the GHB1 batteries are really crap and not one he tested is up to spec. So if they are non-safe and not up to spec then that is even more worrisome. I am assuming the new GHB2 batteries are because of the testing they got Mooch to do on the GHB1's.
https://www.reddit.com/r/GrassHoppe...per_ghb1_battery_750mah_bench_test_resultsan/
Picked up my Hopper at THC in toronto yesterday (finally!!). Apparently available online now as well..
http://torontohemp.com/collections/vaporizers/grasshoppervape
Or you could have purchased it for ~$100 less from Sneakypete...
Been wondering about this. I've recently been using PBW for glass and one other thing I wondered about was that I maybe should not attempt soaking/cleaning a Mighty's C/u with the stuff. Any thoughts on that?
When cleaning Hopper mp, are you removing the screen and inner pieces? I'm hoping for a method that doesn't require this. One mp I have has not allowed me to remove screen ever. A pair of CVS precision tweezers broke - a small piece of one point- in the effort (don't know my own strength!). I tried repeatedly heat from blow dryer and alcohol. Other mp is just the opposite, once every several days it needs to be snugged down.
A further, open question. When mp parts are disassembled, the screen is attached to a 'plastic-looking' funnel like thing and I have trouble cleaning the gunk I can see between the two near the edges. I really don't want to separate the two from concern I'll never get the little tabs locked back down well. Will the PWB/boiling water get all clean, together? Compressed air help? Any other suggestions?
If you're not using PBW, you're not using PBW.ive tried a few times with the mighty and crafty c/u and pbw it just doesn’t seem to work on them like it does on glass, glass is like instantly clean but it didnt work like that with the c/u so i stick to iso for them now ( it doesn’t damage the just doesn’t work the same as it does with glass)
also a good tip i get cheap oxy action from out £land (dollar store) contains the same chemicals as pbw, sodium pentacarbide and sodium metasilicate i believe just 10x cheaper
If you're not using PBW, you're not using PBW.
I've used sodium percarbonate based cleaners before, PBW has a lot more going on. Namely, buffering agents a chelator and surfactants. The stuff is formulated to deal with baked on carbon and it makes short work of vapour resin. It will require hot water and the appropriate mechanical action too, however if it can't be shaken off it will eventually be able to with subsequent rinses.
But, I have no experience with it and the M/C CU, so who knows. After seeing what it did to the GH mouthpiece though, and reading about success with the CU, it surprises me to hear you haven't had success.
Oxy action may not have sodium metasilicate in it btw, this acts as a building agent and raises the pH, it would most likely be 1/3rd-1/30th as alkaline, especially at the concentrations easily available when cleaning such small items with PBW, so it would not nearly clean as well comparatively.