The Extreme-Q Vaporizer

[flotntoke]

Has anyone else tricked out their Q? Not glass or accessories, but the unit itself. Nothing radical here, and doesn't even look good enough to figure out how to post a pic, but I rigged up a little utility belt to help keep track of accessories.

Kept losing the remote and the stirrer right when I wanted them, and my table tends to get cluttered. Made a little bracket out of a piece of coathanger to hold the remote, and used a piece of tubing (now, THAT's a good use for the stock tubing!) to make a holster for the stirrer. I just used some electrical tape about 4" up from the base, and went around a few times taping the bracket on one side & the tubing on the other. It looks a little tacky, but not too bad and well worth it to me for the functionality.

First time looked worse, but second try was good. A tip I figured out second time if you plan on doing this... Wrap a separate piece of tape around the bracket itself (and a separate piece for the tubing itself) leaving tab ends to just stick each to the side before you wrap all the way around the unit. Make sure you keep the tab ends as horizontally straight as you can so they can be easily covered with the tape you go around the whole unit with. As you know the outside doesn't get hot. Apparently it stays cool enough that it doesn't get the tape warm at all. First tape was on for a week and left absolutely no residue or marks.

Anybody else have any ideas to share? I'd really like to do something different (no tape) but can't think of anything else and can't recall seeing anything similar in the thread.

 

[originalbones]

Okay cool, thanks for the input!! I'll look into some silicone when I need replacement.

As far as the airflow thing, I was referring this post below:

So I've had my vape since beginning of summer. Lately when you're drawing in with the whip you can hear the air being pulled through the unit. I'm pretty sure this hasn't always been the case but I can't really remember (haha, who can think of why?). So was wondering if you guys have encountered it and if it's just a quick and easy fix of unscrewing the bottom of the unit and just cleaning out the unit of dust/particles and such.

Thanks,
-Theo

and the post that followed oldiebutgoodie said he could open it or contact arizer, and it just worried mee.... I assumed hearing the airflow was normal?? :S

thanks again for ur help

 

[johnnyawesome16]

so i got my extreme in today! so far it's incredible. already used the whip with an elbow pack, now trying a bag. what a blast!

 

[luvnthevapor]

What is this noise my EQ is making? It is like a low volume computerized squeal. Somebody mentioned this a few pages back......I think @Oldie said it was the kind of noise you might not hear if you're past a certain age, as hearing degrades with time. Sometimes when sitting right next to the machine I will tap it with my fingers and the noise will stop, only to restart soon after.

 

[originalbones]

ya I hear the noise, my computer monitor does it too... its a high pitch sound. While annoying, I'm just talking about the complaint I quoted in post 2602, about the sound of airflow. I thought this was normal... and was looking for reassurement. Also I found that the high pitch sound stops - momentarily - if you change the temp up or down!

 

[oldiebutgoodie]

That's not exactly what I said. No matter . . . As I pointed out in my first response, there are several possibilities I know of for a "high pitch" or "squeal" type sound in electronics:

1. The fan. A bearing can make a high pitched noise when it is failing. The noise, especially at first, may be intermittent or may modulate. The fan can also make a noise if it is off balance, either due to a defect in the fan itself or because it was not properly mounted to the chassis. IIRC Arizer uses Delta fans, which are high quality.

2. Air flow. There is an air channel that goes from the grill underneath up thru the fan and then thru and exiting the center of the heat element. There are probably other air intake paths in or around the chassis that converge into the path up thru the element, for when the user is pulling up air without the fan. If there is foreign matter in an air path, it can create a whistling effect. Or there could be a place in the unit where air is unintentionally escaping, too. This issue is the highest probability.

3. A defective electronic device on the circuit board, or a defect in the board itself. Some devices will emit a noise, sometimes only within a particular heat (voltage) range. Or a board flaw at a mount point or in a solder joint can affect voltage, again causing a device noise. This is quite unusual, and typically only occurs with a brand new unit (i.e., "infant mortality") or due to a physical shock (like it being dropped).

4. And finally there is just the possibility of heat expansion/contraction of materials which can conceivably cause a noise (your car engine makes these kinds of noises all the time).

I suppose there could be other causes too, although offhand I can't think of any. So it can be due to defect, due to inherent design, or due to how it's been used. It may or may not be serious; it may indicate imminent failure or it could go on forever without causing any harm. Electronic devices should not be opened by someone not having applicable knowledge and experience. Most importantly, as I stressed in my first reply, the manufacturer should be contacted first - not just because of potential warranty issues, but because most real issues are already well-known by the manufacturer and can be readily identified if not resolved.

My advice is to wait-and-watch. If symptoms continue or worsen, or you are really concerned, contact Arizer support.

 

[flotntoke]

Headford inline bub arrived yesterday. WOW!

Hate to repeat, but WOW! Awesome! Amazing how well this thing hits. Packed up and put away the AquaVape today. May still get some use with friends on a bag - but is no comparison to the Headford.

Thanks oldie (& others) for pointing me to this. I love it! Might not love it as much when it is time to clean, but Headford inline bubbler + Q = smoothest, most pleasant and effective method I've ever tried and I've been experimenting for more than 30 years!

 

[flotntoke]

And, wouldn't it figure pappy just put one of those sweet Ben Wilson small inline tubes on the sale thread yesterday for only $200! I probably would have spent the extra $60 for that piece, but am not too worried. It may hit as well as the Headford inline, but I doubt it could hit any better. Probably easier to keep the Headford stashed, too.

 

[Purpl3_Haz3]

That's not exactly what I said. No matter . . . As I pointed out in my first response, there are several possibilities I know of for a "high pitch" or "squeal" type sound in electronics:

1. The fan. A bearing can make a high pitched noise when it is failing. The noise, especially at first, may be intermittent or may modulate. The fan can also make a noise if it is off balance, either due to a defect in the fan itself or because it was not properly mounted to the chassis. IIRC Arizer uses Delta fans, which are high quality.

2. Air flow. There is an air channel that goes from the grill underneath up thru the fan and then thru and exiting the center of the heat element. There are probably other air intake paths in or around the chassis that converge into the path up thru the element, for when the user is pulling up air without the fan. If there is foreign matter in an air path, it can create a whistling effect. Or there could be a place in the unit where air is unintentionally escaping, too. This issue is the highest probability.

3. A defective electronic device on the circuit board, or a defect in the board itself. Some devices will emit a noise, sometimes only within a particular heat (voltage) range. Or a board flaw at a mount point or in a solder joint can affect voltage, again causing a device noise. This is quite unusual, and typically only occurs with a brand new unit (i.e., "infant mortality") or due to a physical shock (like it being dropped).

4. And finally there is just the possibility of heat expansion/contraction of materials which can conceivably cause a noise (your car engine makes these kinds of noises all the time).

I suppose there could be other causes too, although offhand I can't think of any. So it can be due to defect, due to inherent design, or due to how it's been used. It may or may not be serious; it may indicate imminent failure or it could go on forever without causing any harm. Electronic devices should not be opened by someone not having applicable knowledge and experience. Most importantly, as I stressed in my first reply, the manufacturer should be contacted first - not just because of potential warranty issues, but because most real issues are already well-known by the manufacturer and can be readily identified if not resolved.

My advice is to wait-and-watch. If symptoms continue or worsen, or you are really concerned, contact Arizer support.

1. This noise happens when the Q is just sitting. No fan.(fan will drown out the noise though.)

2. The noise actually ceases when drawing from the whip.

3. The sound is definitely at a high enough frequency, that the only people that I have had notice it, were mid 20's or less. No one over 30~ here's a single squeal.



My newest theory is as follows; many notice that the cyclone bowl wiggles slightly on the heating element (making it easy to remove.) i think the noise is air escaping where the clone bowl attaches. Reason for this idea is;

1. Noise stops if the bowl is moved slightly, to create a better seal.

2. Noise stops when drawing on the whip.

3. Noise ceases (temporarily) when you lower the temp, them the sound comes back when it cycles on and off to maintain temp.

4. Noise will start and continue steadily when the temp is increased.



I agree with your idea about heat - expansion/contraction. We know that the glass pieces fit more or less snuggly after temp change. This being the case, it would explain the intermittent properties of the "squeal"

 

[oldiebutgoodie]

Headford inline bub arrived yesterday. WOW!

Hate to repeat, but WOW! Awesome! Amazing how well this thing hits. Packed up and put away the AquaVape today. May still get some use with friends on a bag - but is no comparison to the Headford.

Thanks oldie (& others) for pointing me to this. I love it! Might not love it as much when it is time to clean, but Headford inline bubbler + Q = smoothest, most pleasant and effective method I've ever tried and I've been experimenting for more than 30 years!

Exactly my reaction, too. Glad you're happy with it!

 

[oldiebutgoodie]

. . . My newest theory is as follows; many notice that the cyclone bowl wiggles slightly on the heating element (making it easy to remove.) i think the noise is air escaping where the clone bowl attaches . . .

I agree with your idea about heat - expansion/contraction. We know that the glass pieces fit more or less snuggly after temp change. This being the case, it would explain the intermittent properties of the "squeal"

Well, that makes at least 2 of us thinking along the same lines: "there could be a place in the unit where air is unintentionally escaping. This issue is the highest probability". I didn't think of the seal where the bowl fits to the heating element stem, but that certainly fits the noise and variability symptoms.

So here's a question back to you: When the fan is pushing vapor thru the tubing and the mouthpiece exit is blocked (whether it be with one's finger or attaching it to a bong/bubbler where the water chamber stops the air flow), where does the vapor go? I would think the back pressure would force the vapor to escape, either through the fan intake or whatever other intake ports there are in/around the chassis for when the user is pulling sans fan. I suppose there could be a one-way valve at the intakes. While as an engineer I'm simply curious about this, more importantly as a practical matter I want to know if I'm inadvertently wasting vapor (there can be 30-60 seconds btwn my hits; a lot of vapor can move in that much time - so I've taken to toggling the fan). I've not been able to detect any sound or smell when the fan flow is blocked. Any ideas?

 

[Pickzilla]

Hey everyone!

This is my 2nd post.

I am a new convert to vaping. I had taken a 5 year break from the good herb but recently a friend with a vapor bros ended my streak.

I loved the vaporizing experience so much, I did a bit of research, and bought an extreme Q. I am 2 weeks with my Q, and WOW.

This thing is everything I could have asked for. I read this entire damn thread and thank everyone for the depth of information here. Vaping is sooooooooo far superior to smoking, in so many ways. The taste, the clarity, the ease... My Q and I are really getting along quite well.

I was a quick convert to the elbow pack and find it to be very efficient. 2 whips and I am on a different planet for a while. (I am a lightweight, and have some seriously potent herb to boot). I think a 1/4 oz of this stuff is going to last me a few months.

Anyhow, love the Q. Best investment I have made in a long time. Cheers!

 

[appa juice]

Looking to buy one of these guys. Ebay has them for $150 with shipping/warranty, is this safe and advisable? I plan on hooking it up to a bong as well; is this overkill or super awesome?

I've owned an Herbalaire. How does this thing compare? I'm reading through the thread currently; looks like big rips and long lasting bowls...

 

[Purpl3_Haz3]

Looking to buy one of these guys. Ebay has them for $150 with shipping/warranty, is this safe and advisable? I plan on hooking it up to a bong as well; is this overkill or super awesome?

I've owned an Herbalaire. How does this thing compare? I'm reading through the thread currently; looks like big rips and long lasting bowls...

Arizer says that warantee is only valid if purchased from an authorized retailer. And from what I have read, if its sold for any significant amount below the manufacturers retail price, its not from an authorized retailer, thus no warranty. more on this topic can be found in this very thread...

as for the bong, "super awesome," as you put it, would be a perfect description. in fact, to see the difference, when you receive your Q, vape one bowl just through the whip, then try the bong! its day, and, night!

as for the HA, from the general consensus here, I would say the HA does better bags than the Q, and over all may be more efficient. But the Q seems to have the upper hand when it comes to the whip department.

 

[oldiebutgoodie]

Looking to buy one of these guys. Ebay has them for $150 with shipping/warranty, is this safe and advisable? I plan on hooking it up to a bong as well; is this overkill or super awesome?

I've owned an Herbalaire. How does this thing compare? I'm reading through the thread currently; looks like big rips and long lasting bowls...

I'll echo @Purpl3_Haz3's reply re being careful with eBay. If a deal sounds like it's too good to be true, it probably is. You can get the Q for ~$200 at Amazon. Look for the "fulfilled by Amazon", which means that Amazon is actually stocking/shipping for that reseller. You may pay a few extra bucks, but you can be assured the transaction is legit and Amazon stands behind it. Mine arrived quickly and was packaged very well. Just my

Re the Herbalaire, no personal experience but IIRC there was a post claiming that the fan was stronger than the Q's. The question posed was whether the fan was powerful enough to push the vapor through a water chamber. The poster said his Herbalaire's fan can do so. I would think the amount of water would be a factor. In any event, IME at least, while the Q's fan blows bags very well (although possibly not quite as fast as Herbalaire, but does a minute or so really matter?), it won't push the vapor through the water in my glass pieces.

The Q's comes with 2 elbows; I use the 2nd for a GonG connection to my straight tube. To reduce the vapor travel, some folks shorten the whip, or use a second short piece of tubing. (By the way, if you'll be taking the glass fittings on/off the tubing regularly for different setups, quite possibly you'll want to look into some silicone tubing - the Q's PVC is not real friendly in this regard.) And some use the Q's fan to assist with the pull. Of course how big a rip you get depends on your lungs; use an elbow-pack ~.2g and you should get what you want. My favorite piece is an inline bubbler which works exceptionally well, connected the same way. That all said, my quite experienced friends can easily make themselves cough using just the stock whip alone with an elbow-pack.

 

[appa juice]

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23884&clickid=redirect

That stuff good? Its only rated to 425F, i might want something that goes a bit higher? I'll probably make the bong/whip connection pretty permanent, but I do like that different tubing.

also, does anyone know how to check messages on this forum? i've looked everywhere and can't seem to find them.

 

[chucku]

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23884&clickid=redirect

That stuff good? Its only rated to 425F, i might want something that goes a bit higher? I'll probably make the bong/whip connection pretty permanent, but I do like that different tubing.

also, does anyone know how to check messages on this forum? i've looked everywhere and can't seem to find them.

This tubing is very good. This is what I use. You can pay more for other tubing but you will not notice any meaningful difference. And try reading, stated temp range is -100 F - +500 F.

 

[flotntoke]

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23884&clickid=redirect

That stuff good? Its only rated to 425F, i might want something that goes a bit higher? I'll probably make the bong/whip connection pretty permanent, but I do like that different tubing.

also, does anyone know how to check messages on this forum? i've looked everywhere and can't seem to find them.

Think you will like the Q! It is a great machine.

I'm apparently one of the few on here who uses a thicker silicone tubing. Stock is 5/16" PVC/vinyl. I use 3/8 silicone. I'm not a big fan of the pvc. Silicone is much more flexible and easy to work with.

I'm not sure how much of a difference would be noticed by many with using the thicker tubing, but I think the 3/8" gives a much thicker/tastier hit. YMMV, but when I tried to go down to 5/16" (bought some of the overpriced good stuff), I switched back to the 3/8 within a day. Just seems that extra airflow does a much better job.

US Plastics is great. I bought the Tygon 3350 5/16" everyone raves about on here. Was about $30 for 10'. But, I think any silicone with a good temp rating will do just as well. Amazon sells a few types of silicone tubing. The 3/8" one I refer to above (Post 2572) was shipping at 1-3 months out last week, but another is less than $15 for 10' and looks to be just as good. Just had a friend order it the other day, so should see it myself soon.

What he got: 3/8" silicone 10' Amazon

People may tell you the 3/8" is too wide open for the Q. I've found that as long as you use the silicone, it works great. It may have been just a little loose (still useable) if there weren't ridges on the Q's glass pieces, but once you get the 3/8" up past a ridge or 2 it stays on no problem. The elbows for the Q have 3 ridges where the tubing connects, mouthpieces/connectors have 3 in the middle and you only need to get over 1 of them for a good tight hold. And, the 3/8 comes off easily too. The glass for the bag connection does not have ridges, but have had no problems with the wider tubing staying attached for bag filling. Plus, it is super easy to pull off when the bag is done.

I'm pretty sure the Tygon 3350 at 3/8" from USP would work too, if you'd rather spend twice the money on it.

 

[flotntoke]

One more post exalting the great Headford Inline Bubbler! Its so good its hard not to post here every time I warm up the Q. If you can swing it, and you've been thinking about it, you owe it to yourself to try it. Sounds excessive, but yes... it is really that good!

I got mine at RX Industries. Think they are a pretty new vendor. They seem to carry much of the same as ALT, (most for a penny less!) and they have free shipping on orders over $100.

There was a little mix-up with my initial order (my fault). Not only did we work that out quickly, they expedited shipping (still free) and threw in a few extras for my trouble. Everything was packed totally bomb-proof with bubble wrap, then put into a box filled to the brim with styrofoam peanuts. Found them to be a Class A vendor and 1 that I'll recommend to all here and friends. I'd definitely buy from them again next time I'm looking for any glass.

RX Industries Scientific Glass

 

[vapeguy]

Is it me or is the EQ very sensitive to filter cleanliness? The efficiency seems to fall by more than half if I don't clean the filter for several uses (even if it seems quite clean). What I'll do is alternate between a filter in use and one soaking. With my volcano I had to go 1-2 years with no filter cleaning to get such a decrease. I still prefer the EQ, and it motivates me to keep my filters clean.

 

[Purpl3_Haz3]

Is it me or is the EQ very sensitive to filter cleanliness? The efficiency seems to fall by more than half if I don't clean the filter for several uses (even if it seems quite clean). What I'll do is alternate between a filter in use and one soaking. With my volcano I had to go 1-2 years with no filter cleaning to get such a decrease. I still prefer the EQ, and it motivates me to keep my filters clean.

when you say filter, are you reffering to the screens? if so, i and many others have found that the screen in the bottom of the cyclone bowl, requires minimal up keep, but the top hat shaped ones that go in the elbow need to be cleaned often. I use my eq heavily, and have 6 of the elbow screens. I keep 3 in a container of ISO, and three for use. I use the whip mostly, so they get clogged pretty quick, which does make a night and day difference in the performance. they seem to stay a bit cleaner though when using bags....on that note, I usually have one screen I use just for bags, which goes for a week or two without needing cleaning, unlike the ones for whip use, which get cleaned every 2-3 days.

 

[vapeguy]

Yes I meant screens. The bottom one won't need much if any cleaning because the airflow forces the bottom one clean while forcing the top one to clog. It was the same with my volcano, after like 5 years the original bottom filter was still like new while the top one clogged in resin and fine powder rapidly.

 

[oldiebutgoodie]

Re the tubing, we've kinda covered this ground before. What's important with the silicone is the wall thickness, the hardness/software (Durometer), and whether it meets industry standards (NSF, FDA) for food processing and/or medical applications. Either 5/16" or 3/8" can work fine with the Q's fittings as long as the elasticity is sufficient and the wall is thin. As I think I mentioned earlier, it's possible to get 3rd-party fittings like tubing adapters on which 3/8" won't have a snug fit, but it's also possible to get pieces where 3/8" is easier (my alternate VaporTower bowl came with 3/8"). Other posts on this forum recommend the Tygon 3350 line. McMaster-Carr has similar highly rated tubing, and Amazon carries a line which meets the same standards.

Re the elbow screen: For me, it's a small PITA abt the Q. If you pack it, you're likely using a fresh screen for each pack. If using the Cyclone, IME it's when the material breaks down after having been exhausted esp at higher temps, it becomes very fine and then even an easy pull or Fan 1 will push that thin material into the elbow, clogging it. So I basically end up using a fresh dome each session, whether I pack or not. Like @Purpl3_Haz3, I have a set which I just rotate through. They are very well made screens, will last for lots of use. The flat screens will virtually last forever if kept clean.

 

[BuddahMonk]

I have been using the little brush that came with the MFLB to brush the elbow screen after every use like the MFLB. Keeps the screen pretty clear of clogs and needs less changing. IMO

 

[appa juice]

So I'm looking to get the Q for water filtration. I had an HA but the whip style was too basic.

I have done copious amounts of searching. My eye is on this glass piece http://www.everyonedoesit.com/onlin...ear-6-arm-tree-percolator.cfm?iProductID=8882

I can't throw a bunch of money at a glass piece, so I just want something that percolates.

http://www.grasscity.com/black-leaf-inline-bong-layback.html
How does that one look?

Do i need an adaptor or anything specific for that fitting? It says it is 18mm...do i need an additional GonG adaptor or do I just use both elbows to connect the whip to the bong slide (and the other end to the cyclone bowl)?

5/16 is the correct diameter for the tubing as well, correct? This looks like a really sweet setup, really excited!