essie1

Member
Here are some of the top modern 18650 cells:

LG HG2 - Good capacity for very high drain applications
Samsung 25R - OK capacity for very high drain applications. (Designed specifically for EV's)
Samsung 30Q - Good capacity for very high drain applications.
Panasonic B - Very good capacity for medium drain applications. (Fine for Air)
Panasonic PF - Good capacity for high drain applications.
Sanyo (Panasonic) GA - Very good capacity for high drain applications. (My favorite!)​

Thank you for this information.

I just bought 2 of those Sanyo GA's + a Xtar VC2 charger. I also would buy a Nitecore D2 but the guy from www.nkon.nl told me that they do not sell Nitecore chargers anymore, due to some safty problems with those chargers in the past. This is the VC2 I bought: http://www.xtar.cc/products_detail/productId=62.html
 

DramaLV

Active Member
i got the nitecore d2 and like it so far but wish i would have seen this one before. gotta love the usb charging
 
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essie1

Member
i got the nitecore d2 and like it so far but wish i would have seen this one before. gotta love the usb charging

Yes, the usb charging option is awesome. You also can charge with a seperate available 5V wall/USB power adapter. The charger can be used also as a power bank. I saw that there was also a VC2 plus version available, in stead of the VC2 for only 2 bucks more. The plus version charge all battery types, not only Li-ion. Because my order wasn't shipped already, I could change for a plus version:
http://www.xtar.cc/products_detail/productId=63.html

And for the people who gonna buy a charger from the Nitecore brand: Beware, there are lots of fake around. I found out some info how to recognize the fake ones on this website: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44203

Safety first!
 
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essie1,

rz

Well-Known Member
Happy with my D2. If you got a genuine one there's nothing to worry about. Charging through 'usb' would limit charging current anyway - if it's the plan when travelling or something, just get a usb cable that plugs straight into the AA and charge it in there. As for max charging rates - I always pop the batt into the D2 and long press mode to get slow charging - helps maintain battery longevity. Good to know of about other quality options for next time, though D2 is a solid performer so I wouldn't lose sleep over it.
 
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OF

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As for max charging rates - I always pop the batt into the D2 and long press mode to get slow charging - helps maintain battery longevity.

I'm not sure where that came from (perhaps sales 'information'?) but generally Li-ions (and most 'secondary' (rechargeable) cells) can charge or discharge at the same rates. If you check the recommended recharge for modern high performance 18650s I think you'll find the recommendations are for 1 to 2 hour recharges? That is an amp or two recharge rate? Slow charging isn't a widely recognized route to longer life.......which is why you don't find it as a feature on high end vapes? Then again, some maintain that 'planned obsolescence' tends to make makers make decisions based on selling repairs, replacement cells and new vapes? Wasn't that fun, "make makers make"......and grammatically correct I think?

You need lower charging rates for small capacity cells of course to stay in that 1 to 2 hour range, but that's not an issue here.

Anyway, I don't see any advantage to 'slow charging' this class of 'batteries' (they're really cells taken one at a time......).

OF
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Probably from trying to get my lead-acid based scooter batteries to last longer. I should know better than to let theories cross technology lines :doh: Thanks for the nudge in the right direction :tup:

Yep, whole different deal. That raises the trickle/deep cycle debate for sure. And with LA you have a temperature issue to deal with. That is as temperature goes up you need to cut the voltage back. You really need to sense temperature to do a top flight job.

While LA want's to live close to full charge and avoid cycles, Li-ion could care less as long as you keep them cool and avoid extremes (fully charged or discharged). Kept 'in the zone' use (charging and discharging) matters little.

Fun stuff.

OF
 

DramaLV

Active Member
forgot my herbs at home today when i left for work. decided to try to take out the domed screen i made to see if any thing fell between glass and stem and noticed a nice little brown glob inbetween the 4 air holes on thr stem.

i get the idea the little brown dots inside my mouthpiece are like the oil they sell for the o-pens but what is that under my screen?
 
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fubar

Ancient and opiniated inhaler
but what is that under my screen?

tl;dr Probably condensed terpenes just like the wand hash that condenses inside the rest of the stem.

When you start a session the glass plate under the screen is as cold as the rest of the inside of the stem, so vapour will condense there - and as it gets hotter during the session some of that will re-vaporise. You can almost certainly get some kind of a hit off it by dry hitting the gooey stem on a higher temp than you normally use. Probably tastes a bit evil, but if it's an emergency, who cares.
 

DramaLV

Active Member
good to know, it comparable to resin? asking cus those headaches were the worst and its never that much of an emergency lol
 
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Faolan

Mighty, Air1.5/Max/Go, Tinymight, Dynavap, Fury2
good to know, it comparable to resin? asking cus those headaches were the worst and its never that much of an emergency lol
No, it's not the same as resin at all. It's like all the canabinoids that don't make it out. It's actually quite potent
 
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BabyFacedFinster

Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
Here's my :2c: so far. Just some observations, since it only came today and I have only vaped a few bowls out of it. Much :science: to do yet.

It is much smaller than I imagined, and this is a good thing. I can slip it in a side pocket pretty easily. I bought a 14mm gong and plastic cover caps (didn't know it came with 2 already). I can easily see me loading that carry case with two capped stems and taking it on safari. It might be one stem and the gong since that looks like it can be used as a short stem. I am also eyeing one of those dhgate hydrotube knock-offs for $20.

I heard that the stems can be tight fitting at first and damn if that wasn't the case. The plastic tipped stem went in albeit needing some force. The other stem would not go in at all, for fear of breaking it. Hopefully that will work itself out.

I first set it to red and that little bastard heated right up. Got rid of a little shipping smell from the oven. The little flap cover for the heater came right off the moment I played with it. Can't seem to get it back in. I didn't think that would last long anyway. The unit has a nice weight to it and feels well-made. It is a newer model with the recessed holes in the heater.

So anyway, I loosely filled the smaller bowl of the gong and dropped it in my perc bubbler. I set it on red for a few minutes to warm it up, then lowered to green and dropped it on top. This seemed like too low a setting for my tastes. I like to see a little more vapor, so I punched it up to red again. This allowed me to rip some real nice hits with nice mellow flavor. As much as I would love the taste of those low temp hits, those light hits give me the sativa-like, racy heebee geebees. I vape almost exclusively indicas at high temps (and mostly in the evenings, on my big comfy fuckin' couch.)

I did two more bowls and the hits were full and tasty. You do need to take your time and bubble that glass nice and slow in order to get some clouds. I kind of knew this from reading the last 20 pages on this thread. Much thanks BTW.

I noticed that the Air does fit on top of my 18mm gong for my e- nano. It is a tad loose on there, but anyone try to make this work? I might give it a go in an hour or so anyway. .. What the hell.

Overall, I think it's a keeper. Ah wonderful... Start the bubble-making machine.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I heard that the stems can be tight fitting at first and damn if that wasn't the case. The plastic tipped stem went in albeit needing some force. The other stem would not go in at all, for fear of breaking it. Hopefully that will work itself out.

The little flap cover for the heater came right off the moment I played with it. Can't seem to get it back in.

Be sure the seals are hot before you try to insert the stem early on when things are tighter.

To attach the cap you need to pull the tail through the cap from the inside to get the 'head' through. Poke the end through the hole, then grab it with hemostats or that roach clip you hopefully no longer use.

Sucker is a PITA anyway, they stick out too far when open........I remove them.

Glad you're enjoying your new Air. Very versitle machine, dependable too.

OF
 

BabyFacedFinster

Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
Thanks OF.

I thought it would be fine without the cap. If I take it anywhere, it will probably be in the carry case anyway. The beach might be a problem.

Just tried it on the 18mm nano gong. Didn't work. Glad I got the 14mm gong. I definitely need the water. Stem hits on any unit are too dry for my throat. I just ordered the dhgate hydrotube. For 20 bucks it's worth a try. You know... it's a hobby of upgrades

I noticed that the unit benefits from heating a few minutes beyond getting the solid blue light.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Thanks OF.

The beach might be a problem.

I definitely need the water. Stem hits on any unit are too dry for my throat.

I noticed that the unit benefits from heating a few minutes beyond getting the solid blue light.

Yer welcome, glad to help when I can.....as you may have noticed? Anyway, good folks, good advice, no charge.

Lack of moisture (remember air 'drys' as you heat it up, fog goes away when it warms a bit?) is a problem for many at all times, for most at least some of the time I think. A real problem if you're a MMJ type with limited dosage means. There are other, more compact, work arounds available you might want to try. ThermoVape used to sell a fun accessory called 'True Flow' IIRC. It has a porous ceramic ring you saturate with water. The heated air evaporates it adding humidity. It doesn't hold much, a drop or two, but enough for a couple of hits.

My version for Solo/Air uses cotton pipe cleaners. Be sure to get the all cotton version like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Zen-Bundles-...&qid=1480567375&sr=8-6&keywords=pipe+cleaners

Be careful, there are pipe cleaners made of synthetic materials, sometimes mixed with the cotton fibers like modern cloth (for the same reasons.....), sometimes as 'scrubbing fibers'. Those don't take the heat well, unlike real cotton and metal.

Fold it up and stuff it down the top being careful not to block the airflow off of course. Then add the water (I run it under the faucet and shake it out). Same goes for the plastic tipped version, but be careful to keep the bends sharp, that hole is small...... You can fish it out with a bent paper clip. It actually works better that a WT 'done right' since in a WT the stuff inside the bubbles doesn't contact wet, but the wet cotton fibers have huge surface area compared to the bubble. At one point I carried a dropper bottle (like you get eye drops in) filled with water to go with it. Easy to add a drop or two every few hits when it gets dry again.

You can do the same thing with cotton cloth strips, though not as effectively. My experiments with balls of cotton were 'sub wonderful'. Pipe cleaners are the winner IMO.

You might also try the stems for the Solo, same size but twice as long. Cooler therefore. Some really like the bent one, it gets the vape out of your face when you hit it. At ten bucks each, it's a cheap experiment and likely to give you new favorite ways to use your new found little friend.

Regards and best wishes,

OF
 

sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
I thought it would be fine without the cap. If I take it anywhere, it will probably be in the carry case anyway. The beach might be a problem.

I STRONGLY advise that you find a "bargain" vape to take to the beach rather than taking an Air.

The air is an amazing vape, but not indestructible.

It is your money, but how much would ruining the Air versus the "bargain" bother you??

Before you ask for recommendations for a bargain vape I would check out the flowermate Sales at puffitup and also the "last call" area at puffitup.

I have never used a butane vape of any kind, but I am thinking Vap Cap or VaporGenie may also be beach choices.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I STRONGLY advise that you find a "bargain" vape to take to the beach rather than taking an Air.

I have never used a butane vape of any kind, but I am thinking Vap Cap or VaporGenie may also be beach choices.

I'm not sure how big a risk the beach is if you don't take it swimming or something. Salt spray is another issue, of course. But I bet our very own @ataxian owns a Solo or two with some serious beach time on the log? Way more than the average Joe can dream of. Lots of us take cell phones, cameras and such to the water as well. Then again, we've had members who can drop their vapes in the vilest backwater around.....

Butane is a bust on the beach, wind makes it impossible when you want it otherwise. Too bad, eliminates the VG and Vapman as well, otherwise excellent 'backup vapes' in the 'under $100' class IMO.

I noticed that the unit benefits from heating a few minutes beyond getting the solid blue light.

Agreed, as do similar vapes like the Flowermates, Ascend, Summit and so on. It's a conduction vape characteristic (although it varies some) and can show up to a lesser degree between hits. It has to do with how fast the heat can flow into the load. Something to be worked with.

Many of us savor the flavor of a fresh load on the first heat using this feature. That is sip at it as it comes up to full speed and see what you get? Can be very nice.......

Convection is the other way (after the heat source is up to temperature). There's no lag, you can swing for the fences. Volcano and the HA can exhaust the entire load in 'one long hit' filling bags? VG does this as well of course.

Fun stuff. "Take it out and play with it".

OF
 

abby

Well-Known Member
Okay, I'm kinda gonna sound like a broken record, Im pretty sure that I've had this discussion before, but I kinda want someone to talk me through it again:

I want my Arizer Air to feel like my Arizer Solo. Specifically, I want the arizer air's stem to sit in the oven as loosely as a stem fits in the solo's oven. I feel like the loose stem kinda works like a carb of sorts where you can increase airflow by pulling the stem away. I feel like this adds a slight 'manual' touch to the entire experience, and I find myself really needing it. Initially I thought that I'd get used to it, but after a month, I don't think that is the case. I still vastly prefer using the arizer solo over the air (unless I'm using a waterpipe in which case either vape does the job as well).

How do I go about modding the arizer air?
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I received my air yesterday...this thing is amazing. I feel like a Jedi ninja when I vape this device. It's slick and works great. What is the consensus on batteries? What brand? Oem? I've been reading this thread, I'm on page 50 hehe

Welcome aboard, you're right, Air is nifty for sure. It has a lot to offer.

Batteries (really technically cells.....) come up a lot, I recommend the factory one. It's plenty cheap and a known performer that preserves the warranty. There are others that will shade it in some ways, and more that will not do as well, but for a few bucks more you can nail it and get back to enjoying the vape?

Okay, I'm kinda gonna sound like a broken record, Im pretty sure that I've had this discussion before, but I kinda want someone to talk me through it again:

How do I go about modding the arizer air?

I don't recall this ever coming up. For sure you're not alone. Many of us like the throttle on Solo. Some see a 'tight stem' as a good thing. A 'can't please all the people' trade off?

I've given a bit of thought to the problem. I think with a steady hand a guy could grind two of the 3 ribs in the cap down flush. A Dremel with a drum shape steel cutter could do this easily I think. No need to make it overneat, just chop the rib down enough so it doesn't touch glass any more. Be nice to have a spare cap......just in case?

OF
 

Chandler

Well-Known Member
Crafty sent back for repair I've had to pull my air out of retirement. I always forget how nice and dependable it is.

My experience last night.... after a
 
Chandler,

abby

Well-Known Member
I don't recall this ever coming up. For sure you're not alone. Many of us like the throttle on Solo. Some see a 'tight stem' as a good thing. A 'can't please all the people' trade off?

I've given a bit of thought to the problem. I think with a steady hand a guy could grind two of the 3 ribs in the cap down flush. A Dremel with a drum shape steel cutter could do this easily I think. No need to make it overneat, just chop the rib down enough so it doesn't touch glass any more. Be nice to have a spare cap......just in case?

OF

Im not sure I understand. What do you mean by cap?

Isn't the rubber grommet what's holding the air's stem?
 
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OF

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Im not sure I understand. What do you mean by cap?

Isn't the rubber grommet what's holding the air's stem?

No. The soft rubber cover is just a soft rubber cover, the stem doesn't make contact with it ....and if it did that would be one 'rib' not 3?

lwAvM8y.jpg


If you look at the genuine unit on the left you can see the 3 ribs in the piece that cover snaps onto. It's a threaded cap on the oven, with the metal heat shield over that. I advise against messing with that part, you can easily break a lead from the heater or butch up or loose the tiny screws to no advantage.

I'm suggesting taking that soft cover off and grinding the (much harder) cap with the 3 ribs to remove 2 of them. The stem can than pivot on the remaining one rather that being trapped into standing dead straight.

OF
 

OF

Well-Known Member
See, this is where I feel like if you could get a glassblower to custom blow you a very slightly undersized stem (maybe half a millimeter of diameter short) it would solve the problem without having to do anything risky.

I'd be pretty expensive to have a custom undersize stem made from scratch, but you should be able to get the OD ground down (and trued) a bit if you poke around some. Sort of like making a GonG connector, only straight not tapered?

But that's not going to help the 'I can't tip it' problem I think. The problem is the 3 rings part, the top and bottom ring spacing is a wild card. The further they are apart, and the further down the stem the less movement will be allowed. IMO the three rings were done for the specific goal of holding tight on the stem and keeping it from tilting. After all, we asked for it......

OF
 
OF,
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