Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless

[Hogni]

Thanks, very interested in watching your setups.

Do ER really add terps to their concentrates? I dont know. At least I dont believe that time of pressing at low temps makes a notable difference in quantity/concentration of terps.

1) Time of contact. When it start running liquid concentrates have no more time of contact to the plates. There is just the question if time of contact decreased the terps while raisin hasn't reached temp to become liquid?

2) When looking at temps of terp boiling you see that ALL temps are much above your low temp of 207°F.
Starting at 246,2°F (ß-Caryophyllen) up to 350,6°F (d-Limonen/p-Cymol) boiling point of all relevant terps are above 312°F.

I dont know but how should longer time of contact far below the boiling temps (>100°) decrease the terps?

 

[shredder]

There are many different techniques.

Sunfire promotes a longer press onto a cold surface with the oil separated by time/heat, an advantage of his setup. He works with hashes mainly. That is his way, there are many others.

I tend towards flower and 60-90s 94C presses @ 600-1000PSI.

Out of over 50 strains or phenotypes, two recent additions have the terpene content to match the low yielding sativa I prefer to press, and both are bland high THC strains bred to powerful hazes.

My opinion being, with highly flavoured material, the method becomes much less of a determining factor.

I'm making rosin different than you apparently. I press for over 3 minutes with a 20 ton press and low temp plates. At times this is over 4 minutes.

I slowly add pressure until I see it no long spits out rosin. That's my signal to quit. I typically don't even see rosin until about a minute in.

First I warm up a pre pressed mesh bag of flowers for 30 seconds with light pressure. Then slowly ramp up pressure.

I do press a second time with a folded up puck, for a smaller yield.

Terps are outstanding ,(mostly sativa leaning hybrids) and levels are similar to the flowers the rosin came from.

 

[herbivore21]

Alright, it's time that I shared some rosin pics.

These are some 300x shots of some particularly beautiful rosin that I squished recently.

Regarding the consistency, I've been learning a lot about crystallization of cannabinoids and have applied some post-processing to this rosin that caused the consistency that you see. This stuff is almost white to the naked eye for reference.

 

[Hogni]

Herb, very nice! How did you do that?

 

[The Beagle]

I've been learning a lot about crystallization of cannabinoids and have applied some post-processing to this rosin that caused the consistency that you see.

That's super interesting, could you please elaborate a bit on the subject?

 

[miguelovic]

Very nice colour @herbivore21

You're candy working it post press?

 

[Doktor Dub]

@herbivore21 That looks pretty nice and appetizing! Big Respect, would love to hear a bit more how you did it

 

[matthend]

dying to hear details on this and the reasoning behind it. Lay some of that knowledge on us @herbivore21 !

 

[herbivore21]

Herb, very nice! How did you do that?

Thank you my friend! This is basically just using commonly known organic chem methods to promote nucleation. There are a variety of ways to stimulate this response in a slab. Evaporation without using heat in a low oxygen environment and a few other tweaks achieved this result in about 12 hours after processing. This is the first of a series of experiments.

When rosin starts to budder, this is a similar process, but it takes longer to happen so fully and uniformly on an equally large slab.

One thing that I will point out is that this kind of technique seems to work best with nugs that have mature resin. If you have immature resin glands on your nugs, you may find that the composition of the rosin does not lend itself to crystallization so readily, or at all. Many of you may have noticed some of your most fire rosins nucleating on their own to some extent after a little time.

That's super interesting, could you please elaborate a bit on the subject?

Please see above. This is very early testing of processing methods to achieve this consistency at the moment. I love it when my rosin starts looking more like my hash-based creations!

Very nice colour @herbivore21

You're candy working it post press?

It's funny you know, my favorite extracts all look darker than this. I stopped seeking pale resin a long time ago. I look for mature and abundant resin that has not been poorly stored or allowed to spoil. The hue of the resin is not so interesting to me.

Not quite, although that could work as well, but is a lot more hands-on. There are many ways to encourage this effect.

@herbivore21 That looks pretty nice and appetizing! Big Respect, would love to hear a bit more how you did it

The details are above, this is a very early experiment and by the time I'm finished, I'm sure there'll be other, even more effective ways of achieving this.

dying to hear details on this and the reasoning behind it. Lay some of that knowledge on us @herbivore21 !

I don't have time to explain crystallization here at the moment, but I do recommend that you guys check it out.

By the way, if any of you ever wondered how Extractioneering's HTFSE is made, look no further than the chemistry of crystallization.

 

[dabsonthemountain]

Thank you my friend! This is basically just using commonly known organic chem methods to promote nucleation. There are a variety of ways to stimulate this response in a slab. Evaporation without using heat in a low oxygen environment and a few other tweaks achieved this result in about 12 hours after processing. This is the first of a series of experiments.

When rosin starts to budder, this is a similar process, but it takes longer to happen so fully and uniformly on an equally large slab.

One thing that I will point out is that this kind of technique seems to work best with nugs that have mature resin. If you have immature resin glands on your nugs, you may find that the composition of the rosin does not lend itself to crystallization so readily, or at all. Many of you may have noticed some of your most fire rosins nucleating on their own to some extent after a little time.

Hmmm... so a mazon jar with some fresh oxy-absorb, or similar oxygen absorbing packets, might work? Just put your oil in parchment with it?

 

[herbivore21]

Hmmm... so a mazon jar with some fresh oxy-absorb, or similar oxygen absorbing packets, might work? Just put your oil in parchment with it?

It may work, depending on the composition of your extract, but not as quickly.

 

[dabsonthemountain]

It may work, depending on the composition of your extract, but not as quickly.

I've been getting crystalization regularly with under 220 degree presses, i do a little bit of whipping and ignore it for a day or two. But this seems completely different. And it looks like you've got a heavy cake batter there, mine was always closer to budder. I'd really like to get that consistency.

I'm not sure what you mean by evaporation in "Evaporation without using heat in a low oxygen environment" Evaporation how? We talking vac chambers?

 

[invertedisdead]

Just stood on this

 

[Doktor Dub]

@invertedisdead That looks very nice and very light and pure for Rosin. You did this also just with a Hairstraightener? I think i have to do some experiments this Weekend

 

[PPN]

Just tried to extract some rosin from kief using some unbleached coffee filter but it was a total fail cause 2 things:

- the filter didn't resist to the pressure and kief was mixed with rosin
- and I didn't noticed the hair iron set back to a 150°C preset while unplugged and plugged back.

So my question is: Is the filter fail was a consequence of the high heat (Habitually I use the 100°C lower setting of my hair iron)?

Until now I used the ptfe filter bags bought on Alchimia but i received the wrong size and didn't got the low micron filter and I'm under the impression there is too much plant matter in my rosin from kief (my attys are pretty quickly caked and my quartz nail need a very good cleaning with coton swabs between each dab and they come out with a small amount of dust.

Do you use a corner of the coffee filter to make your pouch or do you made it from a square of paper without using the factory seals (between the 2 sheets of paper)? I think that could be a cause of my fail...?

 

[Hogni]

Hi Herb, I hope you will report all steps of your method when you'll finally find the best working one!

Aside the nice appeal what were your intentions to do that? Just optical reasons or effects too?

 

[The Beagle]

If you have immature resin glands on your nugs, you may find that the composition of the rosin does not lend itself to crystallization so readily, or at all.

That's interesting, does immature resin means clear vs. cloudy trichomes?
I also grow and I'm still struggling a bit to judge when it's time to harvest.

 

[miguelovic]

@herbivore21

Yes we agree there too. Colour doesn't indicate quality despite the Instagram culture of hypercriticism.

But it is appealing to the eye and commands a better price.

Although I hope to turn that around with a cob cure of racey narrow leaf.

I tend to press below 200, rarely cured and the majority of it budders.

But as mentioned above, you seem to have a different consistency there.

My favourite rosin was vine dried untrimmed and cured 12wks. Never buddered, medium orange pull and snap.

 

[invertedisdead]

@invertedisdead That looks very nice and very light and pure for Rosin. You did this also just with a Hairstraightener? I think i have to do some experiments this Weekend

Thank you, yes just a straightener. The lowest setting on this straightener is 280; I turned it off for 30 seconds then squished for 5 seconds the first press, folded the rosin chip 2 or 3 times into a little cube, reheat and repeat; for 15 seconds on the second press. Pressing singular little popcorn nuggets, body weight only; no kind of external pressure... Off to go find a clamp and see what happens to my yield!

 

[shredder]

@herbivore21

Yes we agree there too. Colour doesn't indicate quality despite the Instagram culture of hypercriticism.

But it is appealing to the eye and commands a better price.

Although I hope to turn that around with a cob cure of racey narrow leaf.

I tend to press below 200, rarely cured and the majority of it budders.

But as mentioned above, you seem to have a different consistency there.

My favourite rosin was vine dried untrimmed and cured 12wks. Never buddered, medium orange pull and snap.

The majority of my rosin butters as well. And I usually press at about 200°F. And I'm getting lots of compliments from patients on the taste and smell.

As for racy narrow leaf, try Jesus OG. It's some serious stuff. A patient calls it "holy Jesus!".


Not for rookies. And I squeeze green crack and blue dream, although it's narrow leaf blue dream is not really racy. More of a dreamy buzz

 

[invertedisdead]

What do you guys recommend for a cheap way to multiply force? Bench vice? Vice grip? Quick Grip? Arbor Press?

I was going to get a Quick Grip @hashmasta kut style, but then I actually saw a post from him in this thread where he mentioned switching to an Irwin 11sp c clamp vice grip and getting better results. Then I see an Arbor press can be found for $20 more with quite a bit more pressure. I don't have room for a 10 ton at home so I'm looking for the next best. Thanks!

 

[dabsonthemountain]

What do you guys recommend for a cheap way to multiply force? Bench vice? Vice grip? Quick Grip? Arbor Press?

I was going to get a Quick Grip @hashmasta kut style, but then I actually saw a post from him in this thread where he mentioned switching to an Irwin 11sp c clamp vice grip and getting better results. Then I see an Arbor press can be found for $20 more with quite a bit more pressure. I don't have room for a 10 ton at home so I'm looking for the next best. Thanks!

A DIY bottle jack press. It should cost you less than an arbor press with plates, and it could be smaller than an arbor press as well. I built an 8 tonner for about $200 total. Put your brain to work, kill a few hrs and build a press.

I went from body weight, to clamps, to a cheapo vice, to a giant 1950s vice, to a bottle jack press. If i could go back in time, i'd just have built the press first. I would have saved money and gotten the results i wanted right away. And it doesn't have to be that big..

 

[invertedisdead]

A DIY bottle jack press. It should cost you less than an arbor press with plates, and it could be smaller than an arbor press as well. I built an 8 tonner for about $200 total. Put your brain to work, kill a few hrs and build a press.

I went from body weight, to clamps, to a cheapo vice, to a giant 1950s vice, to a bottle jack press. If i could go back in time, i'd just have built the press first. I would have saved money and gotten the results i wanted right away. And it doesn't have to be that big..

Any pics of your setup? What results have changed? From what I've seen it seems people are yielding about as high with a hair straightener as a large press, just the capacity you can press at once is a lot lower.

 

[E-Wax Canada]

No hair straightener will ever compete with a full built tonnage press. Laws of physics. One thing to note, is to ask these guys to do a complete video from start to finish. I bet their yields are a little over stated. Who am I to second guess the internet and all it's truth?

 

[invertedisdead]

In theory more pressure should be better but there are videos all over YouTube of people getting the same yields as large presses with complete videos measuring before and after. Anyways I'm not trying to disputed a proper press, I want one.