Discontinued Omicron Vaporizer for oils

thevaf

Well-Known Member
hey everyone, haven't been on this forum in awhile, but I've been loving my omicron v2 for a little over a year, just a quick question: what would be the best battery to use, i have heard some last longer, some seem to give bigger hits, just wondering what the FC thought? i use the IMR 14650 1000 mah on 1.5 carts :) thanks!

Start with "AW" branded IMRs, so you could get the AW IMR 14650 for starters.

However, AW IMR 14500 (shorter than 14650) is much better and gives you improved power, but you need the 14500 kit Delta 9 sells to get the shorter tube. The other option is to use the stock tube with the spring bottom cap you get if you purchase the HVD kit, and that get you more batteries and power to play with:brow:
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Start with "AW" branded IMRs, so you could get the AW IMR 14650 for starters.

However, AW IMR 14500 (shorter than 14650) is much better and gives you improved power, but you need the 14500 kit Delta 9 sells to get the shorter tube. The other option is to use the stock tube with the spring bottom cap you get if you purchase the HVD kit, and that get you more batteries and power to play with:brow:

While the second bit of advice (AW brand IMR 14500s with short tube or long tailcap) is gold, I don't think AW knows they 'make' a 14650. Actually they don't make anything, they mark and market batteries others make, but they do not as far as I (and Google) know supply IMR 14650s. Which is the reason for going to the AW 14500 and dealing with the new tube issue.

Unless I'm full of hot air (again) and someone knows where to get such a beast.....in which case I want a couple......

OF
 

Bluepants

Member
Im starting to really have trouble with the omicron. I filled it up wit .5 first and i vaped probably about .3 and filled it up again and have not had luck getting it to work very well. I got it to work for a moment but it just wont anymore. I didnt think i would have trouble with the cartridge until a few refills. Sucks the cartridge cant even handle 1g ! I feel like the cart i got really sucked and there is probably .5g of wax in there that i cannot get out.
 
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thevaf

Well-Known Member
While the second bit of advice (AW brand IMR 14500s with short tube or long tailcap) is gold, I don't think AW knows they 'make' a 14650. Actually they don't make anything, they mark and market batteries others make, but they do not as far as I (and Google) know supply IMR 14650s. Which is the reason for going to the AW 14500 and dealing with the new tube issue.

Unless I'm full of hot air (again) and someone knows where to get such a beast.....in which case I want a couple......

OF

I stand partially corrected-there is no AW 14650, I was thinking of the 18650.


For anyone curious the "AW" stands for Andy Wong, who is a distributor that tests and selects the highest quality batteries.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I stand partially corrected-there is no AW 14650, I was thinking of the 18650.


For anyone curious the "AW" stands for Andy Wong, who is a distributor that tests and selects the highest quality batteries.

Agreed, the AW 18650 would be fantastic.....if we could just push hard enough to get it in and the tailcap on.....

That's my understanding of AW as well, kind of a fun story IMO.

OF
 

Silvercloud538

Well-Known Member
hey everyone, haven't been on this forum in awhile, but I've been loving my omicron v2 for a little over a year, just a quick question: what would be the best battery to use, i have heard some last longer, some seem to give bigger hits, just wondering what the FC thought? i use the IMR 14650 1000 mah on 1.5 carts :) thanks!


Recently ,brought the V 2.5 out of retirement w/protected '"ultrafire 14650 @ 1300 mAh"'

(Li-ion)~ using a fresh 1.5 Ohm cart ~ Brilliant results ,batts lasting > 24 hrs ( mod/hvy

use) ~ www.madvapes.com
 
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Katysax

Member
You might try the CE4 (D9 sells them with the necessary adapter for use on all but O-Phos). Ataxian is the big pusher here. He promotes PG in it, which I agree with so far, and it's mighty thin stuff. Thinner than any 'real oil' I have by a fair bit.

OF

The CE4 with adapter will work on the Omicron, and after trying a bunch of solutions I agree that it is a pretty workable solution for Pure Gold. However, it seems to me that the CE4 works just fine on the cheap ecigarette type pen batteries, and I'm really liking the way the Omicron cartridges work on the Omicron. Thus I'm tending to use the CE4 on one of the ecig batteries.

Pure Gold tends to leak in a lot of cartridges, but I would love to get the Omicron performance. I'm wondering if anyone uses Pure Gold in the Omicron carts. If so, does it leak?
 
Katysax,

OF

Well-Known Member
The CE4 with adapter will work on the Omicron, and after trying a bunch of solutions I agree that it is a pretty workable solution for Pure Gold. However, it seems to me that the CE4 works just fine on the cheap ecigarette type pen batteries, and I'm really liking the way the Omicron cartridges work on the Omicron. Thus I'm tending to use the CE4 on one of the ecig batteries.

Pure Gold tends to leak in a lot of cartridges, but I would love to get the Omicron performance. I'm wondering if anyone uses Pure Gold in the Omicron carts. If so, does it leak?

The OP was asking 'what should I get to run PG on my Omicron'. While I agree, and run my personal CE4 on a VV e-cig body, 'buy a CE4 and a new battery to run it on' is probably not the answer sought?

And of course, they do swap out in a jiffy and most of us don't vape from two different carts at the same time. A guy could change over when the mood struck?

That aside, yes many of us tried in vein to use PG in Omicron carts (it's largely responsible for the 1701 project I think in fact). The stuff just eventually leaks, always has, which is why I think Ataxian promotes the top feeding (can't leak?) CE4. If you really want "the Omicron performance" (which I take to be huge clouds?) it's simple. Take the CE4 off the cheap e-cig body and put it on a VV head. Even though I run mine at 3.0 Volts (plenty of production for me with PG) running the drive voltage up a bit will leave all but the hopelessly tolerance challenged legless in short order.

OF
 
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Bluepants

Member
The OP was asking 'what should I get to run PG on my Omicron'. While I agree, and run my personal CE4 on a VV e-cig body, 'buy a CE4 and a new battery to run it on' is probably not the answer sought?

And of course, they do swap out in a jiffy and most of us don't vape from two different carts at the same time. A guy could change over when the mood struck?

That aside, yes many of us tried in vein to use PG in Omicron carts (it's largely responsible for the 1701 project I think in fact). The stuff just eventually leaks, always has, which is why I think Ataxian promotes the top feeding (can't leak?) CE4. If you really want "the Omicron performance" (which I take to be huge clouds?) it's simple. Take the CE4 off the cheap e-cig body and put it on a VV head. Even though I run mine at 3.0 Volts (plenty of production for me with PG) running the drive voltage up a bit will leave all but the hopelessly tolerance challenged legless in short order.

OF

What do you mean by VV head? You have had success with really runny oils with the ce4 carts on the omicron at 3.7v?
 
Bluepants,

OF

Well-Known Member
What do you mean by VV head? You have had success with really runny oils with the ce4 carts on the omicron at 3.7v?

Variable Voltage. In this case the the Robust:
http://www.vaporcigzz.com/L-Rider-Robust-p/lr-r-vv.htm

That's not where I got mine, I don't know them, but the product is neat. Lots like it, this one uses 14500s instead of 18650s or 350s which makes it thinner. They raise the battery up to six volts then rapidly turn on and off to reduce the effective voltage to what you 'dial up' with the buttons. I run my CE4 with PG at 3.0 Volts, as low as it goes. It runs a very long time and will display remaining battery charge.

OF
 

Betelgeuse

I'm the ghost with the most
What is the probability of getting a bad cart right out of the box? I just got my omicron in the mail and now that the batteries are charged i'm trying to oxidize the cart per the instructions and there is no heat and no glow from the first button push. If i press the button five times it flashes and locks, then unlocks again, so i believe there is power. What am i missing?




Edit: Never mind, im just stupid. <.<
 
Betelgeuse,

OF

Well-Known Member
What is the probability of getting a bad cart right out of the box?

What am i missing?

Edit: Never mind, im just stupid.

Yes, I can happen. I personally have had two, one of them a preloaded one from a top Dispensary. Both were promptly replaced, of course, Elemental gave me credit for the gram of oil lost as well. It's rare, IMO. Both had missing heaters....

As to what you might be missing, IMO it's the boat if you do dry burns (which is what pre oxidizing is). It's sucking around for leaks and burnt seals. I think the general consencious around here is far more guys make it worse than better, especially at the start. At best, pre oxidizing is a minor improvement in taste, much more important to learn to use the system to get good, reliable results. Wrecking a cart before it's filled doesn't do much for that.

As to the last bit, not to worry.....I think you'll fit in just fine around here.....welcome to the fun.

Use good concentrates (do a foil test as necessary), never do dry burns for any reason, weigh your carts empty, put half a gram at most in, be sure to properly preheat the center of the cart before melting it down, reload when the oil gets to .2 grams from empty, cool down the cart before ending a session, stick with 2.4 Ohm carts until you master them and you'll do just fine.

OF
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
[quote="OF, post: The stuff just eventually leaks, always has, which is why I think Ataxian promotes the top feeding (can't leak?) CE4.

OF[/quote]
I have been using my new OMNICRON and love how well this thin devices
Performs.

Now I don't run PURE GOLD with freshly charged batteries. Around 3.0volts is the magic number. That's why I use a PERSEI Set up with a SHORTY TUBE & a 3.0V battery.

However I want to get the HDV Kit for my OMNICROM.
In the meantime I use the standard OMNICRON with a CE4 & PURE GOLD with a less than charged battery.
Flavor and Function are my target.
 
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poonman

Well-Known Member
What is the probability of getting a bad cart right out of the box? I just got my omicron in the mail and now that the batteries are charged i'm trying to oxidize the cart per the instructions and there is no heat and no glow from the first button push. If i press the button five times it flashes and locks, then unlocks again, so i believe there is power. What am i missing?




Edit: Never mind, im just stupid. <.<

YOU SHOULD NEVER PRE-OXIDIZE OR HEAT UP YOUR EMPTY CARTS .

This is getting a bit ridiculous now .
They really have to update their pdf instructions .

THC is so busy working on the new stuff , which I get .
But it doesn't take much to fix
or
At least put in a slip of paper to the package stating that fact in BOLD RED letters , so
new owners can see it .

We've heard and seen this scenario before , way too many times .
Those carts aren't cheap .

BTW , I'm still rocking your Omicron Light . It's a very good product .
 

Silvercloud538

Well-Known Member
After losing 'two' cold carts @ gitgo ,me finds it necessary to pre-test a cart (ie., getting warm)

before the fill ,thus eliminating re-claim from a dead cart :-)
 
Silvercloud538,

poonman

Well-Known Member
After losing 'two' cold carts @ gitgo ,me finds it necessary to pre-test a cart (ie., getting warm)

before the fill ,thus eliminating re-claim from a dead cart :-)

That's exactly what I did the first time I got it .
And that apparently killed my cart .
So I was given the new way to do it , and I've no problems ever since .
Other than normal wear and tear .

I'm going by the veterans advise on this , btw .
Good to hear , you're not having this issue , but now I'm intrigued by that .
 

GR

Well-Known Member
That's exactly what I did the first time I got it .
And that apparently killed my cart .
So I was given the new way to do it , and I've no problems ever since .
Other than normal wear and tear .

I'm going by the veterans advise on this , btw .
Good to hear , you're not having this issue , but now I'm intrigued by that .
Been using these carts since the beginning and I am in the camp of testing first. I still had some 2.4 ohm that when tested produced vapor before anything was added and it tastes nasty, enough that I have pitched full carts since something was in there that made the oil off. Waiting patiently for the new 2.4 carts!
 
GR,

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Been using these carts since the beginning and I am in the camp of testing first.

I never pre burn my carts and have never had a failure with this practice!
So I don't get it really about pre burning?

The 2.4 Carts are my favorite.

On another tread people say color does not matter?

As Long as I stay with Blonde well Purged concentrates my success rate is high! (me too)

Cheap concentrates not only clog carts!
Headaches and Nausea as well are experienced!
Would you eat something rancid on purpose?
So why would you try to load a cart with cheap concentrate?

Sure there is medicine like a $2 buck Chuck.

Quality Oil Vaporizer paired with Quality Medicine.

It's not complicated Actually!
 

kevbotzilla

Member
Yes, I can happen. I personally have had two, one of them a preloaded one from a top Dispensary. Both were promptly replaced, of course, Elemental gave me credit for the gram of oil lost as well. It's rare, IMO. Both had missing heaters....

As to what you might be missing, IMO it's the boat if you do dry burns (which is what pre oxidizing is). It's sucking around for leaks and burnt seals. I think the general consencious around here is far more guys make it worse than better, especially at the start. At best, pre oxidizing is a minor improvement in taste, much more important to learn to use the system to get good, reliable results. Wrecking a cart before it's filled doesn't do much for that.

As to the last bit, not to worry.....I think you'll fit in just fine around here.....welcome to the fun.

Use good concentrates (do a foil test as necessary), never do dry burns for any reason, weigh your carts empty, put half a gram at most in, be sure to properly preheat the center of the cart before melting it down, reload when the oil gets to .2 grams from empty, cool down the cart before ending a session, stick with 2.4 Ohm carts until you master them and you'll do just fine.

OF

I was given this response as well when i had issues with my carts i got in the mail and posted about it in this thread. I dont really think in this case the carts are being fried by the initial press of the button but rather that the cart never fires to begin with (right?). I had this happen and even though i recognize that the dry fire can kill a cart, what if it never fires to begin with? That seems to be the case here as well? To all the pros, what about putting the cart on and clicking the button once to make sure the circuit isnt bad and that you dont get the immediate 5 blinks to indicate that? Not to heat it up and see the heating element down the air tube necessarily but rather to just make sure the cart has solid working internals?

I agree that the pdf and other support documentation needs a refresh if its so bad to dry fire carts but perhaps this can be considered in the info that ends up there. my 2 cents.

This all being said, W9 is awesome and replaced my bad cart no sweat when i told them the details regarding how i came to find that it was bad (after i explained that i didnt even get to fire the heating element). Best customer service ive had to date.
 

Silvercloud538

Well-Known Member
It's agreeable ,IMO ,that pre-heating to "improve flavor is unnecessary" ,possibly harmful to cart ; addtnll'y it's

important to know if cart will "heat at all" sooo ,in order to eliminate a reclaim from a dead cart from gitgo ,a 3-5 sec

warmup should not contaminate the cart ,while confirming it is good to go
 
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Katysax

Member
OF[/quote]
Now I don't run PURE GOLD with freshly charged batteries. Around 3.0volts is the magic number. That's why I use a PERSEI Set up with a SHORTY TUBE & a 3.0V battery.

However I want to get the HDV Kit for my OMNICROM.
In the meantime I use the standard OMNICRON with a CE4 & PURE GOLD with a less than charged battery.
Flavor and Function are my target.[/quote]


Please - which 3.0v battery are you using with the shorty. I'd really like to find a 3.0 battery to use with the Persei. Thanks.
 

kevbotzilla

Member
Just picked up amazing tasting Blue Haze Wax for $35 a gram at Purple Heart in Oakland. FTW! Light and dry just my type. :p tastes great in the OPHOS
 
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ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
http://www.delta9vapes.com/products.php?product=18350-IMR-800mAh-High-Drain
One of these in a SHORTY not fully charged.
6453792.01.prod.jpg

http://www.frys.com/product/6453792?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
I have this kit as well.
http://www.lighthound.com/AW-LiFePO4-3-Volt-Lithium-Rechargeable-Battery_p_112.html
I like these fully charged even. No Brainers.

However "OF" will know more than I on this subject this is what works in my case!

Just picked up amazing tasting Blue Haze Wax for $35 a gram at Purple Heart in Oakland. FTW! Light and dry just my type. :p tastes great in the OPHOS

That is a great price!

$55 is about average in Orange County!
 
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