Life Saber (LSV) by Elev8 Vehicles

nowonknows

Well-Known Member
Be nice if they added some form of insulative bushing where the cable exits, cost nothing and increases safety. Same as a better earthing system, twisting a stripped cable around the pot shaft doesn't isn't what I would call safe!
 
nowonknows,

Frederick McGuire

Aggressively Loungey
So does anyone have any non 7th-Floor accessories they use with their LSVs?

I've got a makeshift stand that's a repurposed mock tail set, a carry case that was originally for holding a bottle of wine, and a WPA (for DI pieces) that's actually just a 45 degree male/female adapter :)

Since I stir between every hit, Ive noticed that I get quite even browning of my herb regardless of whether I'm using my standard WPA (with the spherical joint), or my other WPAs (which have a male joint).

I'll have to throw up some pics of my setup soon :tup:
 
Frederick McGuire,

Vitolo

Vaporist
I was sent a "McFinn's Glass Carbon Filter" (made for combustion water pipes) recently to try with the LSV.
The man that sent it to me swore that it gave much better hits that the LSV transfer wands, so I agreed to try it. (Incidentaly the man sells this item, but for a higher price than it can be had for directly through the maker Scientific Inhalations).. in fact he sells it higher than does the reseller "AquaLab Technologies".
This piece was made to house cotton and carbon filters, which I refused to use. The gentleman explained that used alone without the filter material it was still the best LSV wand that could be had.
The LSV wand would be VERY hard to improve.
I did give it a fair chance, but it was by NO means better than the LSV wand!
There is a place to stick a screen, although it does not fit snuggly. This screen sits farther back from the heat source than the screen in an LSV wand, so it took a bit more pull heating the "load".
The angled mouthpiece was comfortable.
The hits, however were not better, they were about the same and there was more glass surface to attract oils than on the preferred shorty transfer wand. This made for more work later when it was cleanup time.
There was also the portion of this filter (that the man called a wand) that prevents carbon from getting through. I found that this impedance also collected oils that I could have been consuming!

The person that sent this to me, said that it was a great mouthpiece OR wand for the Da Buddha.
We tried this, but found that it was way too "jury rigged" for comfortable use.
 

NorCalBrah

Well-Known Member
Whats the easiest way to extract the oily goodness from dat dere transfer wand and remove/replace screen? thx in advance kind sirs
 
NorCalBrah,

Vitolo

Vaporist
fill it halfway with 91% Iso and shake the hell out of it...
Repeat procedure...
evaporate and use stuff.
screen...
pluck screen out with the stir tool... IF IT IS NECESSARY!
to put it back in do the same as at the end of this SSV wand vid.
(Skip to 4:10)
 

Steele Concept

Transformer Tubes
Manufacturer
Hey guys, I think I found a solution to a problem us LSV owners have:

The LSV needs a holder. The base of my design will accommodate the LSV and is very heavy to prevent tipping (>2 pounds). It has a finely bead blasted finish which could pair nicely with the anodized aluminum the LSV has. I will just remove the downstem portion for a sleek base holder...

I will call my machinist tomorrow to see what we can do, I'll be testing a prototype soon.

If there is an interest maybe I could offer some LSV base stations to this community.
 

NewVape

What a guy!
Vitolo thanks for the video, and btw did you know that spell check autocorrects Vitolo to Gigolo?

Steele I like the idea, I've been thinking about the same thing myself. I came up with this which kinda works.

83a24af131476cb44ab41b3381fa79eb.jpg


I've also been think about trying a wine bottle holder. I'll post up a pic if I find one.
 

Steele Concept

Transformer Tubes
Manufacturer
I scratched the idea of having my machinist make bases when I thought of the following cooler (literally and figuratively) and MUCH cheaper solution:

Screw.jpg


Here's her up close and personal:

Closeup.jpg


Night Light anyone?

Night-Light.jpg


Whole setup:

Setup.jpg


My clean cord inspiration (my baby the mac mini :)

Homebase.jpg




One love! Hope I could be of assistance. Wall mount FTW.
 

Steele Concept

Transformer Tubes
Manufacturer
Oh and NewVape, your solution is solid for when the unit is lying down. Good looks man.

I had a question... I remember reading in the information that after one is done using the unit, they should unplug it. Do you guys unplug the unit after use?

Thanks.
 
Steele Concept,

Frederick McGuire

Aggressively Loungey
I don't.

I leave it on for a sesh, which can be up to like 8 hours, then turn it off (at the temp knob) when I'm about to go to sleep.

I don't leave it on 24/7, like I sometimes do with my SSV, but I'm fine leaving it on all day.

I only unplug it if I'm moving it to another outlet :lol:
 
Frederick McGuire,

Vapor Partisan

Well-Known Member
Sorry to bother you all but I need some advice.

Last night tragedy struck. There was a party at my house and the cord for my LSV got kicked, causing the unit to crash to the floor and the DBV wand I've been using as a transfer wand to break in what might be the worst way possible. Basically, the bowl part of the DBV wand is still stuck in the LSV heater cover and because of the broken glass I'm not sure how I can twist it out.

There's another issue I've had with my LSV since I got it: I can't take the heater cover off. Even when I pull and twist as hard as I can, and I have a number of times, the heater cover barely budges. I hate trying to force glass repeatedly, but I have no idea what I'm supposed to other than try to twist it and tug away from the base of the heater.

So my questions for you guys are as follows: Do you have any ideas for how I can remove the DBV wand's bowl from the heater cover, and if that proves impossible how can I remove the LSV heater cover altogether without breaking it? I'm starting to worry that this entire $225 unit has been ruined because of last night's unlucky fall (it's not under warranty.)

Some kind of response today would be appreciated so that I don't have to delay too much longer before ordering whatever replacement parts I'll need.

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Vapor Partisan,

NewVape

What a guy!
Having just recently gotten an LSV I have limited experience to share. What I can tell you is that with my LSV the heat cover comes off with a gentle twisting pull. Not much force at all and it slides right off. (pic below) Can you tell if there's anything that is causing it to stay stuck. It seems that once you get the heater cover off you can push out the male joint from the other side.

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NewVape,

Vapor Partisan

Well-Known Member
Bad news!

I read what you said about how the heater cover should twist off easily, and started trying to pull mine off again. The bad news is, the base plate that was under the heater and the electrical headers under it came loose before the heater cover did! So now I have the heater cover firmly attached to the base plate and the heater and its wires are just loose.

Can I fix this by connecting the wires and re-gluing the base plate with gorilla glue? What's my best route to fix this from here?

By the way, I still can't get the heater cover cover to budge from the metal cylinder it's mounted on. There aren't any badly placed shims or anything, it's just a really tight fit. How can I get it off?

sc6vj7.jpg

2s81a4j.jpg
 
Vapor Partisan,

Vitolo

Vaporist
My advice would be to call 7th Floor in the morning.
Talk to them about this.
You should get this advice directly from them... and I think may will be willing to give direction.
 
Vitolo,

nowonknows

Well-Known Member
I'm suprised that plate is simply glued in place.
Go with what Vitolo said, contact the manufacturer.
If you have no joy, personally I would put a chissel on the end of the glass where it connects, tap it with a hammer to gently smash it off. Get a new heater cover, remove all the shims, put the large one on, if the replacement heater cover it too loose add a small shim, if too loose repeat, once on there nice you are done.
You can reconect the cables, that isn't an issue, I would research what type of adhesive would be best to use to fix the end cap back in place, then let it run for a couple of hours at full blast prior to use just in case.
 
nowonknows,

Vapor Partisan

Well-Known Member
I don't think I'm going to contact 7th Floor just now because their repairs are a little bit expensive without a warranty and can take a while. With that plus the new parts I would have to buy, it seems like I might as well just buy a used DBV, or save up for a month or two to buy a certified problem-free SSV or LSV. I'm not trying to diss 7th Floor, just trying to save a few bucks because I'm a broke college student.

If you have no joy, personally I would put a chissel on the end of the glass where it connects, tap it with a hammer to gently smash it off. Get a new heater cover, remove all the shims, put the large one on, if the replacement heater cover it too loose add a small shim, if too loose repeat, once on there nice you are done.
I smashed the heater cover last night after soaking it in various solutions I saw recommended online for loosening glass didn't get me anywhere. To my surprise a shim that had been invisible under the cylindrical spacer fell out, making me less worried than I was that I might not be able to put a new heater cover into place if it's the same as the old one.

You can reconect the cables, that isn't an issue, I would research what type of adhesive would be best to use to fix the end cap back in place, then let it run for a couple of hours at full blast prior to use just in case.
I connected the cables and got the heater working again last night. I needed to use tweezers but it was a lot easier than connected most of wires in my computer. So all I need to do now is glue the base plate back into place and wait for a new heater cover and transfer wand to arrive.

My question now is about the temperature the base plate would reach. The gorilla glue super glue I have is advertised online as being able to bond aluminum and is listed as being good up to 200-225 degrees F (93 degrees C). I question whether the base plate even gets anywhere close to 200 degrees F when the heater is on at full blast, since it's possible to touch without major discomfort or burning. However, I'm not the best at judging temperatures by touch or the most knowledgeable about physical science so I'd welcome a second opinion before I start squirting out glue and hoping for the best.
 
Vapor Partisan,

NewVape

What a guy!
I'm glad to hear your LSV is still operating, and I thought there might be a shim holding the cover in place. Sad that you had to bust the cover to get it off. Hopefully the next one will fit better. As far as the glue I'd just email the 7th floor guys and ask their advice. Maybe they can tell you what glue they use, you're buying a HC and Wand from them after all. Failing that I'd ask in the Ask FC section, you'll get more of a response to a question like that there.
 
NewVape,
Hey guys, so after contimplating with which new vape I should get and going through this thread, I decided to pull the trigger on the LSV. Purchased it straight off 7th floor with a WPA. I will be using it primarily through water filtration. Thanks to all of you guys for showing how great the LSV is and I am pretty sure it will satisfy my needs. I currently use MFLB+PA+WPA but I want something with more powerful.

Thanks again people
 

Steele Concept

Transformer Tubes
Manufacturer
Hey guys, so after contimplating with which new vape I should get and going through this thread, I decided to pull the trigger on the LSV. Purchased it straight off 7th floor with a WPA. I will be using it primarily through water filtration. Thanks to all of you guys for showing how great the LSV is and I am pretty sure it will satisfy my needs. I currently use MFLB+PA+WPA but I want something with more powerful.

Thanks again people

Buying direct from the manufacturer FTW! That's what I did and I opted for the USPS shipping. Hope you enjoy man.
 
Steele Concept,

Steele Concept

Transformer Tubes
Manufacturer
Yeah that's what I chose but didn't want a custom knob. I'm naturally partial to the steel my man, enjoy!
 
Steele Concept,

Vapor Partisan

Well-Known Member
A week and a day ago someone kicked the cord of my LSV and sent it crashing from a table to the floor. The transfer wand shattered in such a way that the attached bowl was firmly lodged in the heater cover's ground glass joint, impossible to remove from the outside. I had never successfully been able to remove my heater cover before, since it was connected very tightly, so I decided to try to force it off in order to push out the broken bowl piece from the other end. This was a mistake: Instead of pulling off the heater cover, I managed to pull off the glued-down base plate that goes around the cylinder that supports the heater in its cover, disconnecting the heater in the process. Eventually I decided to smash the still-stuck heater cover in order to get it and the broken bowl out of the picture.

Since then I have plugged the heater back in, ensured it still functions properly, ordered new glass and sent 7th Floor a support ticket asking what kind of adhesive I can use to reconnect the circular base plate. Gluing down this base plate is the only task I have left before I can use the vape again. Unfortunately, 7th Floor did not send me a response so I will ask again here.

I have on hand a bottle of Gorilla Glue super glue. This glue is advertised as bonding aluminum and as able to withstand temperatures of up to 200-225 degrees F. I'm no expert at judging temperatures or adhesives, but it seems to me that the base plate around the heater on the LSV and the interior space below it probably never come close to 200F even when the vape is on full blast, since my hands aren't burned touching it, but I really have no idea and want second opinions before I start squirting out glue. What temperature does the interior and casing of the LSV actually reach? What adhesives would be more appropriate? I'm willing to hunt for any that do not require clamping equipment to set (the LSV doesn't have flat surfaces to put weight on.)

I'll send my question by 7th Floor one more time after I post this but nonetheless I will appreciate any and all feedback or advice.

2s81a4j.jpg

sc6vj7.jpg


The pictures are the opening to the interior of the LSV, where I intend to replace the base plate, and the disconnected base plate itself with the heater cover still attached and the heater loose inside of it.
 
Vapor Partisan,
So my LSV was delivered yesterday and I was able to try it last night after work. Let me tell you, this thing is awesome. It constantly kicked my ass, throwing me in a cough fit. I only used it via WPA and will continue using it that way, dont plan on dorect draw much.

I like the sturdy design and that it heats up pretty fast. This is definitely a heavy hitter, I was exhaling nice thick vapor. Used it before work today and it gave me a really good high.

All in all I really love this product and it is worth the money. I wish I would have purchased this as my first vaporizer. I have no complaints other that it is a little big and heavy but yet it is sturdy. I cant say enough how much I love the amount of vapor it produce, I am keep getting surprised at how much vapor I exhale. Also compared to my MFLB, it vaporized evenly and conserved my flowers a little more. By my second bowl I am really up there.

Thanks again everyone here and the people at 7th FLoor, I'm sure this new baby will become my daily driver.
 
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