Yes all earlier models Had the smaller inlets.
The holes are done by hand on a drill/mill so i try to get them as even as possible but a little variation is inevitable.
Discontinued Imp by MistVape
- Thread starter mistvaporizer
- Start date
The holes are done by hand on a drill/mill so i try to get them as even as possible but a little variation is inevitable.
Improvaper
Well-Known Member
No that's cool. Just good to know and worth checking for all Imp owners, I think. I'm sure it's possible for the holes to get clogged with use as well.
I'm going to take mine wider. I understand too much air flow can overopower the heater, but I can control it with my breath and I like the extra headroom when things get hot. It also seems to get a cold bowl vaping faster, at least for me.
I'm going to take mine wider. I understand too much air flow can overopower the heater, but I can control it with my breath and I like the extra headroom when things get hot. It also seems to get a cold bowl vaping faster, at least for me.
paytonpenn
Level 30 Nature/Healer
Yeah, better to have it smaller and capable of users being able to make it wider than too wide from the start. I do think the earlier ones were very small holes, I don't see how they'd get clogged though only air passes through it.
New ones could be maybe even a bit wider still but I think they are solid for starting and it can be increased.
This vape has been getting me too high, I've been wanting to do a video but here are some words until then.
To keep this simple I have PID off for these instructions.
I am running TCR(Tubo) 145 (M1,M2,M3).
My wattage is set to 45w.
Your resistance is going to be different; unscrew the atomizer and zero all your coils, then screw it back in and hit zero all again. (When I did this I got .233 took a test hit @ 380F and it seemed like it wasn't supplying enough power for what I was expecting.) This is something you are going to have to adjust yourself and find the sweet spot on. If you notice the display says a low temperature but your coils are glowing your resistance is too high, if you find the display showing a high temperature but its running cold the resistance is too low. I suggest testing at 380F. In the end, you'll want to adjust the resistance setting later on but where you initially set it now should be the general area it will hang out.
(I ended off around .258 after increasing the resistance so that the power supplied was more per temp.)
Fwiw I don't know much about TCR or 510 stuff but I've had to set up multiple Imps on multiple mods.
New ones could be maybe even a bit wider still but I think they are solid for starting and it can be increased.
This vape has been getting me too high, I've been wanting to do a video but here are some words until then.
To keep this simple I have PID off for these instructions.
I am running TCR(Tubo) 145 (M1,M2,M3).
My wattage is set to 45w.
Your resistance is going to be different; unscrew the atomizer and zero all your coils, then screw it back in and hit zero all again. (When I did this I got .233 took a test hit @ 380F and it seemed like it wasn't supplying enough power for what I was expecting.) This is something you are going to have to adjust yourself and find the sweet spot on. If you notice the display says a low temperature but your coils are glowing your resistance is too high, if you find the display showing a high temperature but its running cold the resistance is too low. I suggest testing at 380F. In the end, you'll want to adjust the resistance setting later on but where you initially set it now should be the general area it will hang out.
(I ended off around .258 after increasing the resistance so that the power supplied was more per temp.)
Fwiw I don't know much about TCR or 510 stuff but I've had to set up multiple Imps on multiple mods.
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paytonpenn
Level 30 Nature/Healer
1. Claptons if not overheated often should last 6-12+ months AT LEAST. Honestly probably longer but we haven't had Imps out that long.
2. I will try and show in my new video today, but intakes hole should be somewhat diagonally spread over the coils.
Improvaper
Well-Known Member
Man, the Imp is really hauling ass through water since I widened my air intakes. It now performs nearly identically to the StemPod at 430°... instant, thick clouds from a cold start and it pumps the vapor out for as long as the bowl size will allow. It was tough to keep up with such a high temp for extended draws without combusting before I did the mod. It's perfect now.
Technically, the Imp is even faster due to the quicker heat-up time. In order to not overpower the heater in the StemPod when hitting through water, I'm using really beefy coils that take nearly 10 seconds to get to 430. The Imp is there in about 4. The Imp is incredibly efficient and powerful.
Technically, the Imp is even faster due to the quicker heat-up time. In order to not overpower the heater in the StemPod when hitting through water, I'm using really beefy coils that take nearly 10 seconds to get to 430. The Imp is there in about 4. The Imp is incredibly efficient and powerful.
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They is some confusion on stems. The old stems don't fit the new Imp. Look for O ring stems. I apologize the website isn't that clear on this point.
If you order a cooling stem you will get this for the Imp
I'll have these up in the store later today.
If you order a cooling stem you will get this for the Imp
I'll have these up in the store later today.
Brisirg
Member
I have been using the imp with great results the last few days, but today when I tried to use it I combusted, then I noticed that the resistance changed from 0.22 to 0.26, the coils turned red and the resistance, even though it was blocked, went up to 0.32. I checked the coils and I did not find any that would collide with anything. What could it be? I'm using it with a Geekvape Nova.
Improvaper
Well-Known Member
Have you perhaps pushed the screen down onto the top of the coil? Make sure there is full clearance there with the body on.
some random questions for the peanut gallery as i sit back and wait for my imp to arrive...
how fragile is the (short) stem? if the mod tips over is it toast?... l tried looking for silicone sleeves but penis pumps kept coming up... does anyone insist on using silicone at all times to keep the stem cooler and/or protect it?
how can we judge when to change the coils? i know when to change my ecig coils since they start to heat up worse and taste off but i'm assuming it would be a long time before that happens as the coils stay dry
is there anything noticeable in the imp's effects as coil wraps and gauges change? i would think some people would want to beef up the coils and boost the wattage to try and get a faster and more condensed hit from the default but i don't know how much space is left in the deck to experiment.
last, what would be the biggest drawbacks of the imp? i know people are loving it but i think you can tell a lot more about a vape when you know what it can't do well.
from what i gather, some of the issues in the earlier model like uneven abv and the unwieldy longer stem have been addressed, so it's nice to know that Mr. Mistvape cares.
how fragile is the (short) stem? if the mod tips over is it toast?... l tried looking for silicone sleeves but penis pumps kept coming up... does anyone insist on using silicone at all times to keep the stem cooler and/or protect it?
how can we judge when to change the coils? i know when to change my ecig coils since they start to heat up worse and taste off but i'm assuming it would be a long time before that happens as the coils stay dry
is there anything noticeable in the imp's effects as coil wraps and gauges change? i would think some people would want to beef up the coils and boost the wattage to try and get a faster and more condensed hit from the default but i don't know how much space is left in the deck to experiment.
last, what would be the biggest drawbacks of the imp? i know people are loving it but i think you can tell a lot more about a vape when you know what it can't do well.
from what i gather, some of the issues in the earlier model like uneven abv and the unwieldy longer stem have been addressed, so it's nice to know that Mr. Mistvape cares.
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
They is some confusion on stems. The old stems don't fit the new Imp. Look for O ring stems. I apologize the website isn't that clear on this point.
If you order a cooling stem you will get this for the Imp
I'll have these up in the store later today.
How do these cooling stems with the larger glass beads compare to the previous version of cooling stem Besides the bowl dimensions?
Are screens from imp version 1 still usable?
@sickmanfraud the screens are different. The new stems are about 2 mm wider in diameter.
I think the cooling stems for both models are similar.
@dagfp i use my Imp every day and if something is a hassle i don't like it and don't expect anyone else to deal with it. So i try to make it work right
I think the cooling stems for both models are similar.
@dagfp i use my Imp every day and if something is a hassle i don't like it and don't expect anyone else to deal with it. So i try to make it work right
Sativapo
Well-Known Member
Maybe first check how the coils behave without the cover in wattage mod. If the coils heat normally and evenly then maybe redo your atomizer setting in the mod.
I had some similar issues when the settings went off and with some fiddling when I was sure it wasn't a " hardware" issue of the coils I had succes setting up the mod from scratch.
have you tried changing out the coils completely with new ones?
you can also fiddle with the TCR settings of the mod... SS316 is between 0.00091-94 and SS316L is 0.00092
on the mistvaporizer blog it says "when it is too cool increase the resistance by .002 if to hot decrease the resistance by .002."...
have you tried not locking the resistance? i have never locked resistance on ecigs and temp control works fine...
how about re-reading the resistance of the coil when it is fully cooled?
i guess you have to figure out if it's a software or hardware issue...
Is there another mod you could try it on? If nothing else you can send it back and I'll check it out.
I haven't seen that happen with any build so it makes me wonder about the mod. I'm not familiar with that model
Sativapo
Well-Known Member
In wattage at what watt setting does it glow?
paytonpenn
Level 30 Nature/Healer
Are you saying you set your resistance and it changes to what it's set or it changes throughout heating as it's going to fluctuate on the display during use. What's your mod can we see a picture of your settings?
Brisirg
Member
@paytonpenn heres my settings:
Resistance at 0.25
Wattage 35
TCR 185
When locked, the resistance goes up to 0.38.
@mistvaporizer i tried it in an aegis legend as well and same results, but they're the same brand so i wonder if that's a thing.
Resistance at 0.25
Wattage 35
TCR 185
When locked, the resistance goes up to 0.38.
@mistvaporizer i tried it in an aegis legend as well and same results, but they're the same brand so i wonder if that's a thing.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
@paytonpenn heres my settings:
Resistance at 0.25
Wattage 35
TCR 185
When locked, the resistance goes up to 0.38.
@mistvaporizer i tried it in an aegis legend as well and same results, but they're the same brand so i wonder if that's a thing.
It probably means that your mod can't lock the resistance
SOLUTION: Reduce to 31W. IMP is not designed to be working with wattage higher than 32W.
there's the youtube review which the guy uses 32W with 0.4 resistance and it performs well. (TCR 185, also)
alleyhoops
Phila
Broke my stem last night. Lost a few beads that the Roomba never picked up. I was trying to get the stem off the Imp and it just shattered on me. 
Dave, any new kind of stems in the pipeline? Started using the short stem in the meantime.
Dave, any new kind of stems in the pipeline? Started using the short stem in the meantime.
Replacements for sure. Was it the longer O ring stem with a mouthpiece and beads? or is it the ground glass joint earlier stem?
Made some electrodes out of pure copper and then got them 24 kt gold plated.
Working the bugs out but cast copper might be the best way to make these
While I was at it I got some screens plated in 24 kt gold also.
I don't know if there is any advantage to gold plated SS but they are damn pretty screens!
Made some electrodes out of pure copper and then got them 24 kt gold plated.
Working the bugs out but cast copper might be the best way to make these
While I was at it I got some screens plated in 24 kt gold also.
I don't know if there is any advantage to gold plated SS but they are damn pretty screens!
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alleyhoops
Phila
It was the o ring stem with the beads that you sent me. It was really tight and I struggled a little too much to it get off and it shattered.
Improvaper
Well-Known Member
I received my new Imp body and stem system today. I wasn't going to do it, but the demos were too damned impressive. Indeed, these stems are better than anything I've hobbled together so far... by a lot! Really incredible performance improvement. If any early adopters are on the fence, you should not be. My only complaint... my setup got a little more penisy looking lol
I have a couple unrelated questions...
1. About how many bowl loads are you all seeing per battery? I know we all have different usage patterns, but I'm trying to see if I'm on the low end of things. I'm still using my Amazon batteries. I got legit ones from IMR, but they don't seem to offer any real improvement so they've been living in my StemPod mod. The battery indicator on my Evic V2 Mini almost never shows full charge, even immediately after replacing with a fresh battery. After a couple hits, it generally shows a 20% drop in charge. Sometimes that will go back up. Sometimes not. I figure the measurement is just flaky. I suppose I could check the numbers closer with my D4 charger.
I haven't counted but would guess I average about 3-4 bowls per battery hanging around 380-400° for most of it going up to 430° for water usage. I feel others are maybe getting better battery life. Just wondering if there might be something wrong with my mod or deck.
2. Goldenbud mentioned you shouldn't run the Imp over 32 watts and I never would in wattage mode. That's more than enough. Why, then, are we instructed to set the Tubo power to 50 watts? Isn't that rather high? I backed it off to 40 today and it seems to affect heat-up time to the hottest temps I use by less than a second and the heater has no trouble keeping up. Unsure as to battery improvements. Any ideas? I'm looking to optimize.
3. Who here has adjusted PID settings? Even with the remarkable performance I'm getting, I'm all about tweaking even more out of it. I'm curious if anyone's seen marked improvements doing this.
I have a couple unrelated questions...
1. About how many bowl loads are you all seeing per battery? I know we all have different usage patterns, but I'm trying to see if I'm on the low end of things. I'm still using my Amazon batteries. I got legit ones from IMR, but they don't seem to offer any real improvement so they've been living in my StemPod mod. The battery indicator on my Evic V2 Mini almost never shows full charge, even immediately after replacing with a fresh battery. After a couple hits, it generally shows a 20% drop in charge. Sometimes that will go back up. Sometimes not. I figure the measurement is just flaky. I suppose I could check the numbers closer with my D4 charger.
I haven't counted but would guess I average about 3-4 bowls per battery hanging around 380-400° for most of it going up to 430° for water usage. I feel others are maybe getting better battery life. Just wondering if there might be something wrong with my mod or deck.
2. Goldenbud mentioned you shouldn't run the Imp over 32 watts and I never would in wattage mode. That's more than enough. Why, then, are we instructed to set the Tubo power to 50 watts? Isn't that rather high? I backed it off to 40 today and it seems to affect heat-up time to the hottest temps I use by less than a second and the heater has no trouble keeping up. Unsure as to battery improvements. Any ideas? I'm looking to optimize.
3. Who here has adjusted PID settings? Even with the remarkable performance I'm getting, I'm all about tweaking even more out of it. I'm curious if anyone's seen marked improvements doing this.
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Sativapo
Well-Known Member
@Improvize I am getting worst battery life than 3-4 bowls but a tend to roast my plants heavily from mid to very high temps with many heat ups being below average on most battery vapes.
@alleyhoops I broke my ground glass stem today! Mod was hanging loose from sweater pocket stem slipped. I think i won't replace it as I a still have the cooling one and waiting for glass and wong shorties along with my custom oring unit.
I decided not to upgrade the first one but keep both as I like the woody feel and less breakable aspect of the wong the new system doesn't offer. Plus I think the wong is more efficient than ground glass especially once a bit seasoned/roasted.
@alleyhoops I broke my ground glass stem today! Mod was hanging loose from sweater pocket stem slipped. I think i won't replace it as I a still have the cooling one and waiting for glass and wong shorties along with my custom oring unit.
I decided not to upgrade the first one but keep both as I like the woody feel and less breakable aspect of the wong the new system doesn't offer. Plus I think the wong is more efficient than ground glass especially once a bit seasoned/roasted.