Homemade Vaporizers

OhTheAgony

here for the chicks
Yeah, I'm still thinking the fake(?) 936 I posted in the Hakko thread is my best option thus far, but I'd really like one that has the temp control build in the handle to save some desk space. But the only one like that I can find here in 220V is the cheap one 2clicker tried already. The Goot seems to be out of stock, plus I don't really trust the webshop that sells it anyway. I'm also contemplating on getting the 220V version of the cheap one 2clicker got and swap out the heating element for a larger one with similar specs. I can get one for 8 bucks so it's not a real problem if it seems un-doable after I've taken it apart.

I do have a couple of these laying around btw:

2884_0.jpg


They are rated 20 to 300W. Perhaps I should just try and see what it does when I plug my 50W Weller (which I'm not taking apart) in there to test it for usability. The soldering tin I have melts at 183C which should be a good starting point for a vaporizer I think.

Why do you recommend a 600W dimmer btw? I think one that comes closer to the maximum output of whatever iron you're using would give you a lot more control than one rated so high, wouldn't it?
 
OhTheAgony,

VWFringe

Naruto Fan
thanks, you just answered the question i was about to post (how to attain greater control with a 600 w dimmer), i think the 600 watt is the most common here, but maybe someone could suggest something that's closer to 60 watts that's commonly found...?
 
VWFringe,

Purpl3_Haz3

On a Permanent Vakation
2Clicker, or anyone else who may now, has the permanent model of the 556(iron used in your current hakko) been identified yet?

I am interested in building one of these, and am just trying to get the most up to date parts list possible, for the glass heater cover, and the iron....Thanks!
 
Purpl3_Haz3,

OhTheAgony

here for the chicks
VWFringe said:
thanks, you just answered the question i was about to post (how to attain greater control with a 600 w dimmer), i think the 600 watt is the most common here, but maybe someone could suggest something that's closer to 60 watts that's commonly found...?

I don't think it's possible to adjust yours, unless you're start working with some sort of gear box to slow down your adjustments. I'd look around on google or at a local parts store for something else if I were you. A quick search came up with this one already:

http://www.jalanes.com/IBS/SimpleCat/Product/asp/hierarchy/0208/product-id/304602.html

200W is about the lowest I could find over here as well btw, but I bet you can find something like that a lot cheaper.
 
OhTheAgony,

Hippie Dickie

The Herbal Cube
Manufacturer
my hakko 456-16 is 60 watts, and is marketted to the stained glass crowd, it's way too hot to vape with alone. i set it to about 40% with a light dimmer,

interesting ... my heater can run 72 watts (6v, 12 amp). i have my code trying to determine the average duty cycle and it is running about 6.25%. At full power it is room temperature to vape temperature in 20 seconds -- 30 seconds if the batteries are down.
 
Hippie Dickie,

VWFringe

Naruto Fan
i wish i had a bud toaster, that is for sure

i wonder if i could replace the pot in a cheap-o dimmer, may look at that, or look for an old torch lamp on the side of the road to strip it's dimmer out of
 
VWFringe,

PhishCactus

Lvl. 420 Vaporist
homemade vaporizer (merged)

Hello, I have always wanted to make a homemade vape, but have had little success. Last week i learned how to use a new tool in my schools engineering shot, the lathe. I won't act like i know a lot about it, it it spins a piece of metal and you can drill through it very precisely, and also grind away the sides to any shape you want. Here is the first model of what I made, i don't plan to sell it, but i call it the vapor blunt, I always thought it would be funny as I can imagine thugs vaping :lol: Ill post a few pics below, I need to defuse the heat from the lighter more, as I DID GET VAPORIZATION, woohooo, however it was very easy to burn, and i need more control. Im not a fan of metal, and will eventually turn it into ceramic or wood, but for the time being, although i've heard conflicting opinions i heard it takes like 1,700 f to release anything from aluminum, although i could be wrong, everyone I have expressed my fear to said i was nuts, so i decided to go on. Pics below, feel free to ask questions, sorry for the typos im in a hurry but was dying to post this since i knew you guys would think it was cool

How it works: the funnel shaped part on the "front" of the piece, basically just reduces the heat of the flame, through the smallness of the hole, and the fact that its a few inches from the bowl, the screen fit in beautifully, i cant wait to get a better picture. Sorry if the explanation of how it works is vague, i will elaborate upon request, but it is almost like the vapocane in a way, not that the vapocane got great reviews, but this is just my first idea in a way to diffuse the heat. Another way is to seal the end of the heat exchanger, and put holes along the side of the shaft, the heat would be forced to go around the shaft and then into the screen. After my first test i got vapor, but i need more control, so tomorrow i will probably elongate the whole thing to reduce the heat, or attempt to diffuse it through a bunch of small holes or a likewise solution.

Thanks!

the inside is recessed three times, the largest hole is first, that is the female part of the heat defuser that the funnel shaped thing goes into, then a smaller recessed hole that holds the screen, which luckly fit in PERFECTLY, my camera couldn't catch it, will upload better pictures upon model two, and then the smallest hole for the mouth piece end, This model is very very rough, i designed it while i made it, and the thought for the funnel shape came as i was making it. It needs a lot of touching up, but i think its a start, ive been trying to make a vaporizer for a while, and have never had much luck, so this is a start.













i left extra space between the heat diffuser, and the main piece to be conservative as i knew the heat would probably be too much, which it is. So i will move the main metal up, in the next model, so there wont be that indentation, although for now, i figured one could wrap bee line around it...

sorry for the sloppiness, i was so pumped to get this up, and i used my web cam to take the pictures, i would love to answer any questions!
 
PhishCactus,

PhishCactus

Lvl. 420 Vaporist
after further testing, using a homegrown catnip and lavender blend, as it is the week and i don't vape during the week, i was able to get consistent vapor and the end product of a nice ABV colored herb, however, i am going to try to make it less sensitive to the heat, as now it can fairly easily combust, still, i am pretty pleased
 
PhishCactus,

OO

Technical Skeptical
simple design cactus, i like it.

it's exactly like the glass version i mentioned earlier.
 
OO,

col0r

Member
DIY Vapo(merged)

Hi guys,

I just want to inspire some of you guys to build your
own vaporizer. :-)
I started off with a hot air pistol and a glas bong,
pretty easy to do, but hard to control the temperature.

Then I checked the Aromed 4 and build a simpler version:
cimg5894.jpg


Its a common precooler with an Aromed head and a 50x22mm tube.
Note the tube depicted doesnt work, cooper oxidates. I use
an aluminum tube with 2 holes on top to fix it with wire
to the G9 lamp socket. The lamp is a 50W Halogen. Remember,
a common lightbulb loses 95% of its energy to heat, only 5% to light.
Temperature is controlled via the dimmer. The air passes between the
glas and the hot tube, heats up and goes over the gras. Fine dust
is filtered through the water. The aquarium tube (put in water for a
few hours) has a glas mouthpiece, so you can pass it around.


These days I tried to do a portable 12V version of the same
thing, temperature controlled via an Atmel chip:
dsc00111bs.jpg

Its an old Pentium cooler with a 12V 50W Halogen and a temperature
sensor (electronics not depicted). Doesnt work, cork as insulation at 190C
tastes like smoked fish. If anyone has a clever idea what I can use
as insulation, I'll be glad to know. :-)


Uh one more thing. The Magic Flight works due to unloading a
batterie very quickly (shortcutting it) and heating up the "wire"
(thin metal pan). Anyone having an idea what kind of metal
it is, how thick and what area it has? I would like to know how to
calculate it.

Thank you.
 

Hippie Dickie

The Herbal Cube
Manufacturer
what I can use as insulation

i have found the best thing in my vape is dead air space -- any other material will absorb the heat. i use a shiny stainless steel heat shield to reflect the heat back into the vial holding the bud. Dead air space outside the heat shield - between the heat shield and the vape outer body (the cube). The outside of the cube stays at ambient temperature, while the heater is cooking at 395F.

i don't know what MF uses, but nichrome is the standard resistance heater wire. Nichrome 80 is medical grade. There is also a nichrome 60. Slight difference in ohms per foot between the two.
 
Hippie Dickie,

col0r

Member
Whoa, the Bud Toaster! Didnt see it before. Now how cool is that!

I have to look through the 37 pages once I have more time.
Looks like my festival plans for June are still possible, after
failing with mine yesterday. ;)
I used to measure the distance to the final temperature and
use that value as "on", while having a fixed "off" time. Hand
coded PWM in assembler, giving me an asymptotic curve.
But using a transistor gave me an energy surge back into the Atmel,
I burned 4 of them in no time until I found out I had to use a protection diode.
Now it only has a relais and "on-off", no curve anymore:
dsc00086rc.jpg


The heater is a simple bulb:
dsc00019p.jpg

Heats to 190C in 3 minutes. A PT1000 at the air intake measures
the temperature, the ADC steps are about 1C.

You dont sell kits, do you? :-)
 
col0r,

buddyinbc

Member
New Homemade Vape (merged)

Hey

Ive been working on a personal vape that uses the same principles as the Magic Flight Launch Box, just with a few extra little features.
This is my first draft (I'm expecting to have to do a few more before i perfect it) but it works pretty well and just got pretty baked on its first run
Keep in mind this is some what of a prototype so its not too pretty :p
give it another week or two and i should have my finished copy

Theres a few pictures here so take a look and if you have any suggestions, comments, or questions I'd love to hear them

img0192ea.jpg

img0194xq.jpg

img0188i.jpg
 
buddyinbc,

Cloud954

Member
not sure i follow how your heating element works can you hook me some info im extremely intrigued looks like some thought went into it.


Excited to see the final model
 
Cloud954,

buddyinbc

Member
Its pretty much the same heating method as a Magic Flight Launch Box which is the batteries complete a circuit through the screen that you can see

Just had the day off work and i've been wanting to try this for a while haha
 
buddyinbc,

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
Have you thought about adding a cover to keep the vapor isolated?
 
Stu,

PhishCactus

Lvl. 420 Vaporist
he did add a cover, it's just hard to see, look on the side theres a piece of plexi glass
 
PhishCactus,

Spacenstein

Well-Known Member
This is really cool! What are the extra features you've added?

I've been wanting to make a custom vaporizer of my own. It's nice to see a lot of users around here taking the initiative to start inventing/modifying and creating units of their own. Much respect to ya. :)

-Space
 
Spacenstein,

Elluzion

Vapeosaurus Rex
you are going to have to post a video on how this works or something! Looks really mysterious and awesomee.. NINJA! :ninja:

Nice vape :)
 
Elluzion,

Egzoset

Banned
If i'm still allowed, i'll repeat my comment again:

I find the initial post real contributes to this board by raising the level of creativity.

:peace:
 
Egzoset,

buddyinbc

Member
Im not sure what all those deleted posts are about but ive almost finished the second unit. its a little different that this on cause it only uses one battery. i found when using two it would end up frying both batteries if left in for more than ten seconds without cooling it.

To answer Spacenstein, i've put the elastic bands and a battery holder onto the unit as well as using a second battery. it got a little confusing because i ran different circuits through the same mesh.

Id like to figure out how to get the two batteries to work and might tinker around with it a little more because it delivers almost twice as fast heating then the MFLB (although they are both under 5 seconds so its not that big of a deal)

Any suggestions would be great
 
buddyinbc,
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