Discussion in 'Portable Vaporizers' started by Fenton Mewley, Jul 21, 2015.
@stark1 - I believe a 7 fin 316 refers to a 7 fin stainless steel tip.
316 is a non-ferromagnetic Austenitic stainless steel alloy of the "300" stainless steel family .
316L is the "Low Carbon" version of 316 .
The VapCap M is made out of 316L stainless steel ( tip & stem ) .
I'm not sure but the cap is most probably deep drawn from a 304 stainless steel blank.
Very alike deep drawn "caps " of 304 SS are used at various valves .
1 ) Titanium blank deep drawn caps ,maybe ?
2 ) Titanium -standard & XL - ordinary condensers ?
3 ) Please release again the 4th gen tip (the one with the 7 fins ).
I think PP is referring to 316 medical grade stainless steel, the material from which the M is made.
This, I would love a deep grooved seven finned tip.
As I said a couple hundred pages ago I really found an improvement in taste with the deeper grooves but when I use the five finned tip in my bubbler the body can get hotter then with my older seven finned one.
Just for the record ,those grooves at the tip are called " ACME threads ".
The ( 3rd ? ) 4th and 5th gen tip are triple ACME threaded .
Can somebody post a pic of all the tip generations side by side ,please ?
Can't seem to link it properly from mobile, but here is an m, 3rd 4th and 5th(newest) I think...
So is this a gen 2? It's my designated concentrate tip because the airflow is pretty tight and it runs a bit hotter.
Yep, my brother is in possession of my gen 2 tip. I rocked that one for a long time on my old school woody
I will probably do this. I just want the carb blocked, don't want to fiddle around trying to find it while putting it on my SonG setup
Just adding my voice to the calls to bring back the Gen 4 7-fin Ti tip. Unless there's something better coming?
Wow. Such a Nation of Knowledge....
Thanks, folks, and fellow VapCats!
Thank very much.
My POV is that the 7 finned ,4th generation tip is -or rather was -the best tip ever.
Quite a few times I've asked the Dynavap team for one of those tips
(at the notes ,when ordering )
Never got an answer,thought,let alone a tip.
It's really a pity that these tips are no longer available.
I've only one -which is my EDC - but I've managed to pit it ,during my early experimentation with anodising.Not severely ,but aesthetically gives a look of a ...RatCap .
Still I would like one more of these obsolete beauties ...
I don't think it is an ACME thread. Is it one continuous groove? Love your stems and posts.
I got an answer:
I am sorry to hear about your dissatisfaction with the new Ti-tip design. I assure you that our engineers work to produce the most high quality machine parts as possible. Hopefully your original tip that you prefer continues to work in good condition. If there is anything I can do for you let me know. And please do not hesitate to leave an order note in your next order if you need any additional spare parts. We appreciate your business!
This was my original letter
I don't even want to be writing this email, but I feel it is my civic duty. After months of testing, and going back and forth, and trying to convince myself otherwise...I have found categorically better performance from the older 7 fin style ti tip. I want to love the newer ones, so I use and use, but when I switch back I notice a definite performance increase.
Maybe it's just me, and maybe my opinion doesn't matter..but I though I would be doing a disservice if I didn't let y'all know what I thought. They both work great, but one always works a bit better. Have a great day.
This is what I did with my Vong, as I always use it with a water piece and I always want the air hole closed. Just saves having to hold the VC and allows (with an assist from my JarHead) one handed operation.
Actually it is an ACME thread ,with a difference.
It was not machined with an ISO 60° threading insert-like the one below
,neither with a 29° ACME threading insert
but instead with a round one .
That's why it does not look like the ordinary trapezoidal ACME thread ,
but looks like a type of ACME with round/concaved "valleys" .
And no it's not a single groove ,but three of them.
Needs a CNC to be done.
Very difficult to machine with a turning lathe.
Note :Carbide inserts are used in modern CNC mills and lathes.
Can't hurt to have a relationship with ACME after all. Great source of "stuff".
Here ya go, Sir, @antispleen, and us all
Perhaps I am just being a semantic nit picker.
When I see threaded in this context I see a spiral groove and ridge geometry, a screw. M 3 x 0.35 or 1/4 x 20 for example. A series of independent grooves do not thread. Tooling wise you may very well be correct, probable are.
M in the house!!!
Cleaned - It was pretty clean, just a tiny bit of crud in the condenser.
Assembled and dry fired, it clicks.
Blazer FireFox Mini Torch works well, child resistant safety removed.
Magnetic stand, glue drying.
Science must wait till this evening.
No instructions. I've read the thread so I am OK but seriously, no instructions.
Fit and finish are excellent, exceptional even!
The cap is pure metal working magic.
The screen is super cool.
Draw is way more open than a Solo even with PVHES, nice!
What I don't like.
The trademark on the stem is an abomination imo. Visually confusing noise as appealing as rust.
The trademark on the cap is nice clear and subtle as befits this jewel like item. Made in USA is small enough to live with. Why do I need two big trademarks on something the size of a cigarette.
While I am at it, the trade mark of the stash is enough to prevent me from buying one. Not subtle or classy imo. And finally if I ordered a fancy wood stem and it came with a trade mark I would scream. Imagine I would just explode or spontaneously combust in the presence of the stems with both Dynavap and Ed's Tnt trademarks.
Hats off to Dynavap, this a hell of a lot of product for the money.
Which is the top and which is the bottom?
That's for sure...
Think of the “top” as a top hat; the “bottom” has a wee
Well...at least that’s helpful.
Well ,that's why you deserve an answer on that one.
Actually ,they do thread.
" A multi-start thread consists of two or more intertwined threads running parallel to one another.Intertwining threads allow the lead distance of a thread to be increased without changing its pitch. A double start thread will have a lead distance double that of a single start thread of the same pitch, a triple start thread will have a lead distance three times longer than a single start thread of the same pitch, and so on.
By maintaining a constant pitch, the depth of the thread, measured from crest to root, will also remain constant. This allows multi-start threads to maintain a shallow thread depth relative to their longer lead distance. Another design advantage of a multi-start thread is that more contact surface is engaged in a single thread rotation. A common example is a cap on a plastic water bottle. The cap will screw on in one quick turn but because a multi start thread was used there are multiple threads fully engaged to securely hold the cap in place."
" Multiple start threading ".Google it,to find out more .
Planck, there's no need for written instructions as all you have to do is go to youtube & all the informational & instructional vids are there under Dynavap.
Never-ending & annoying isn't it! 850 pages & still no set-in-stone acronyms. What I think of the top (as @stark1 said, top of the cap) everyone else calls the bottom & vice versa. I'm gonna call what people refer to as the top, the digger end (DE) & what everyone calls the bottom, which is really the top of the cap, as TOC. It works for me.
@VapCap, I, too, want a new 7 fin ti tip. Please make it happen. And if you put out a 7 fin ss like @phattpiggie would like, count me in for that, too.
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