Dynavap VapCap

[herbivore21]

Ok, I have the opportunity now to give some first impressions review on my omnivap and the vapcap OG

I'll start by saying this: I don't use flowers much. When I do, I do not use butane vapes for flowers. This will be no exception. I've spoken around these parts about my rigid intolerance for accidental combustion and I have other vapes for flowers where I never run the risk of it. Of course, others can get good results with butane vapes and flowers for their needs and more power to them!

This is a concentrate based review.

The ceramic screen in the omnivap is not bad! Of course, I am not loading melty hashes and oils straight onto the ceramic screen (even thinking about that wasted goodness is upsetting!). For hash purposes I place an ss concentrate pad cut to size over the ceramic screen. I prefer the ceramic screen to the metal screen in the OG unit, I like that it stays put more than the metal screen when you are putting extra hash screens on top.

The adjustable airflow is really nice. The requirement to slightly twist as you pull/push the midsection over the o-rings kind of works against the turning to set your desired airflow, I find this twisting action to prevent messing up the o-rings can inadvertently mess up the airflow setting (but only slightly, and this can be compensated for with careful assembly). I really noticed the effectiveness of tighter draw resistance when I use the omnivap for direct draw hits. Prevents me from inhaling more than my lungs can fit (I'm used to rigs with the additional chamber capacity + my lungs).

The warm-up click is an irrelevancy where concentrates are concerned. You need to heat up about half as long again after you hear the click to get good hash vapor. However, the learning curve is less steep for concentrates vs flowers in the vapcap (and almost all butane vapes) - you just don't really have anything to combust in there!

The cool-down click must still be respected for concentrates IMO. I do not go beyond my initial warm up (1.5 clicks or so if that makes sense) without a cooldown click in-between hits. For this reason, this would not be the ideal vape for large groups IMO vs a desktop plug in for example. On the plus side, great for small groups with the benefit of your buddies not being able to break it!

I truly love the size of the bowl in the dynavap vapes. That narrow diameter is ideal for hash use. Also makes other concentrate use much more efficient than other butane vapes I've used. It is much easier to get an espresso tek style pack in this kind of bowl for concentrates and get an effective heat distribution through your material.

Now to taste. This tastes good. It won't beat out an evo on taste of course, but of the butane vapes I've used, this is as good as any other. Reminds me a lot of the vapman - the flavor is spent in the earlier hits. However, unlike the vapman, you do get meaningful clouds from concentrates while there is still plenty of taste. Flavor with concentrates seems to last longer into the bowl with the vapcap.

The only thing I could think of at this stage that would be much coveted for this herbivore in the dynavap range would be a concentrate pad (something like the S&B or Firefly 2 use, an SS coil that can sit on top of the ceramic screen to prevent gunk from melting all through the airpath while you warm up concentrates). @VapCap if you make these, you will have successfully turned the vapcap into a concentrate compatible unit. I know we have the pyrovap, but this seems like it is not going to be the right tool for melty hashes and some of the other more solid concentrates.

As the OG Vapcap is quite similar to the omnivap, I won't spend too much discussing it separately here. I'll take a moment to say I also like the screen in this unit too and see how it would be nicer for use with flowers. The all glass unit is nice to watch vapor through, and tastes slightly nicer than the omnivap (this is not a very noticeable difference).

I can see how the glass at the outer edge at the end of the bowl could get chipped over prolonged use with excessive heating too close to the glass end of the cap, sloppy attachment of the cap over the bowl or rough use of metal tools loading the OG bowl. To me, the omnivap provides a piece of mind in these regards that justifies the price premium.

All in all, this is a great vaporizer and in my view, one of the best that I've used for hash and I'm sure it'll be my daily driver for those hashes that don't quite melt enough to be dabbed.

A very satisfied customer right here - I can see what all the fuss was about!

 

[stark1]

"OG, with water, please."

 

[b0]

Fuck! I just realised when doing my luggage to go back to UK that I lost my Ti Glassy

Was my first vapcap product, broke his glass body once but got a new one a couple months ago with my Omnivap (I love that vaporizer) I can't remember where could I lose it... It was working THAT good lol

I have a special order on the way, so guess I will add a couple OG's to it. Never tried one before and for that price I will take a couple for sure!

 

[nickdanger]

I have an OG and Omni that I received the Friday before Labor Day. I've been having so much fun with the OG, I haven't had a chance to try the Omni yet. I absolutely LOVE the OG! I packed a bowl and got through 3 heat cycles, and was absolutely whacked. I checked on the AVB and it is still pretty green, so I will be able to use the same again. (I'm a lightweight vaper.) This thing is so much fun, I really don't have any desire for another vape at the moment - oh maybe some VC accessories though. These things are an engineering masterpiece!

 

[VAPEHUNTER]

The only thing I could think of at this stage that would be much coveted for this herbivore in the dynavap range would be a concentrate pad.....

This was posted a while back, Thank you @Quint , looks like it might be what you are looking for.

I had a couple of PM's asking exactly how this was put together so I figured I'd just post something here. So this is my 6th revision to my screen/coils setup. I wanted something re-usable, capable of holding lots of oil without burning it, and free of SS to get the best taste possible. This solves most of the issues I've been having, such as leaking/burning. The wire rings are grade 2 titanium wire. They're in place to help wick the oil to the coils, and force the air path through the coils.
My exact, "oil cart" setup. From left to right is how it's assembled. This is right after that live resin was vaped so it's still partly saturated in oil.

Top screen/coil removed.

I generally heat it a second past the click, and 5 seconds or so of breath after the cool down click, to help keep the oil from burning. The taste all the way through is miles ahead of anything else I've tried so far and it's still capable of producing large clouds(Although not quite as large as hemp). It's fine using it horizontally however using it in water tools with the cap facing up can cause a bit of oil to run down the condenser.

 

[Quint]

This was posted a while back, Thank you @Quint , looks like it might be what you are looking for.

I had a couple of PM's asking exactly how this was put together so I figured I'd just post something here. So this is my 6th revision to my screen/coils setup. I wanted something re-usable, capable of holding lots of oil without burning it, and free of SS to get the best taste possible. This solves most of the issues I've been having, such as leaking/burning. The wire rings are grade 2 titanium wire. They're in place to help wick the oil to the coils, and force the air path through the coils.
My exact, "oil cart" setup. From left to right is how it's assembled. This is right after that live resin was vaped so it's still partly saturated in oil.

Top screen/coil removed.

I generally heat it a second past the click, and 5 seconds or so of breath after the cool down click, to help keep the oil from burning. The taste all the way through is miles ahead of anything else I've tried so far and it's still capable of producing large clouds(Although not quite as large as hemp). It's fine using it horizontally however using it in water tools with the cap facing up can cause a bit of oil to run down the condenser.

This setup is nice, but the oil leaking up the condenser can be a bit of a pain. The flavor/clouds are really nice though.

The flavor is nearly as nice as the setup above but far less prone to leaking. This is a w9tech titanium coil smashed/stretched to fit. Then I pushed a ceramic rod in the middle (I just took it from a broken w9tech cart). The idea is, the concentrates are slightly more stable/attracted to the ceramic as it takes longer to heat. It's very hard to tell based on this picture, but you can load a grain of rice sized ball of concentrate on top of the ceramic in the middle. This method also requires a lot more heat. The flavor is spectacular but the clouds are like 3/4 of what you can get with hemp fiber.
*edit
This method is relatively expensive and ymmv but this is without a doubt my favorite.

 

[TheVaporist]

I just saw the Ti carbon S is finally online, for 105$

http://www.dynavap.com/product/ti-carbon-s/

Damn George, you're gonna to kill some of us

Glad to see things are stepping up!

 

[ZC]

Carbon now?

With so many amazing types its a wonder how anyone can choose which one to get.

On another note, George should check out the new titanium water adapters underdog made. If he made something similar for the omni I'd buy it in an instant.

 

[lookhigh]

Too much choice? Buy em all and keep George happy.

 

[herbalist33]

"OG, with water, please."

Wow, that's a very interesting glass piece- do you have any details? Is it from dhgate? Looks like it would retain flavour pretty well!

@herbivore21 very nice review pal, I've recently seen quite a few of your posts- normally I don't torture myself by reading concentrate threads (the UK is in the dark ages when it comes to oils etc), but you've got some great knowledge, and it's nice to read your posts. I actually just picked up some over priced nug qwiso, first time I've ever managed to source some instead of making it myself from avb, so have been adding pinhead amounts to Vapcap herb bowls- lovely! do you happen to have any experience dabbing off the small glass/Quartz 10mm nails that are sometimes included with dhgate pieces? I've got a domed nail, but no experience and don't know whether I'd be wasting my time/qwiso by trying to learn to dab off it. And there's no point in me buying a proper nail just yet... Any advice?

Sorry to go off topic there guys...

In terms of differences between the OG and ti Vapcaps, I find that the Glass bowl of the OG retains heat a lot longer, meaning that il get one or two more hits from each heat cycle on the OG, and I don't have to heat as often. The ti tip heats up and cools down a lot quicker, due to the nature of titanium, meaning that I have to heat a bit more often, but this provides me with a bit more control over temps. I love them both, but out of the OG, ti woody and Omnivap, the Omnivap wins it every time for me- the adjustable airflow is really underrated on the Omnivap. Being able to adjust the airflow, and therefore vapour density, means that the Omnivap is extremely versatile and can cater for most people's preferences!

Peace

 

[herbivore21]

This setup is nice, but the oil leaking up the condenser can be a bit of a pain. The flavor/clouds are really nice though.

The flavor is nearly as nice as the setup above but far less prone to leaking. This is a w9tech titanium coil smashed/stretched to fit. Then I pushed a ceramic rod in the middle (I just took it from a broken w9tech cart). The idea is, the concentrates are slightly more stable/attracted to the ceramic as it takes longer to heat. It's very hard to tell based on this picture, but you can load a grain of rice sized ball of concentrate on top of the ceramic in the middle. This method also requires a lot more heat. The flavor is spectacular but the clouds are like 3/4 of what you can get with hemp fiber.
*edit
This method is relatively expensive and ymmv but this is without a doubt my favorite.

This is similar to what I've done, but I've used a lot less SS concentrate pad in the bottom, just enough to cover the screen and stop goop getting through. Not noticed any gunk in my condensor at all and I predominately use my omnivap inverted

Hey I wanted to stop and discuss the one lingering question I have for the omnivap - the manual suggests not cleaning with alcohol.

Is there a component (the o-rings?) that might get damaged with contact with iso? I am definitely going to need iso to clean that reclaim lol - ain't nobody getting away with concentrate use like this without solvents for cleaning!

Wow, that's a very interesting glass piece- do you have any details? Is it from dhgate? Looks like it would retain flavour pretty well!

@herbivore21 very nice review pal, I've recently seen quite a few of your posts- normally I don't torture myself by reading concentrate threads (the UK is in the dark ages when it comes to oils etc), but you've got some great knowledge, and it's nice to read your posts. I actually just picked up some over priced nug qwiso, first time I've ever managed to source some instead of making it myself from avb, so have been adding pinhead amounts to Vapcap herb bowls- lovely! do you happen to have any experience dabbing off the small glass/Quartz 10mm nails that are sometimes included with dhgate pieces? I've got a domed nail, but no experience and don't know whether I'd be wasting my time/qwiso by trying to learn to dab off it. And there's no point in me buying a proper nail just yet... Any advice?

Sorry to go off topic there guys...

Greetings brother! Glad to hear you've enjoyed my posts and I thank you for the kind words!

Interesting to hear that our UK friends are starting to see concentrates appear on the market - I notice this more and more lately on FC! What price was this qwiso going for, if you don't mind me asking? What kind of flavor/consistency/variety btw?

If you ever want to start making your own concentrates - and I strongly recommend this - just drop me a PM with any questions!

Now as to dabbing with a dome and nail, it is actually quite straightforward.

The learning curve is mostly about learning when to let the nail cool down. One thing you need to be sure of is that your quartz nail is quartz, and not borosilicate. Some of the dhgate rig nails that I've seen were glass ones and my buddies broke these with excessive torching.

Here's some basic steps:

1. Place the quartz nail in the GonG joint of your rig.
2. If the nail is quartz, using a blowtorch, heat the quartz with the soft blue (not the bright, opaque blue sharper part of the flame) end of the flame so that this part of the flame wraps around the top part of the nail (do not torch below this top dish of the nail where you put your dab).

Hold the torch flame in the same place until the quartz starts to glow a little bit (do not let it get super red, over torching will cause devitrification of the glassy surface and ruin heat retention). If your nail is borosilicate, you will need to move the flame a little and not concentrate it on one point (this might cause the glass to stress and break - borosilicate starts to face stress and possible breakage at 932f or so - around 500c for our British friends - a torch flame is much hotter than this and I do not recommend the use of glass nails).

3. Place the dome on the GonG joint over the nail! Don't forget this part, if you dab without the dome in place, it's gonna be wasteful!

4. This is one of the main technique parts of dabbing on quartz. You need to now figure out the ideal time to countdown after your heat up in step 2 in order to get the tastiest dabs. Use a timer/stopwatch at first as this will help you get used to how long to wait and keep track of it accurately.

Try waiting 20 seconds right after you stop torching before applying your dab on the dish the first time and see how you go. If the dab tastes harsh and hot (this will make you cough if too hot), you dabbed too soon - wait a little longer. If the dab pools up on the quartz dish and there is a lot of residue left, you dabbed too late after heating - dab sooner next time.

5. The key when you apply your dab to the dish is that you are trying to get the dab off of the dabber and onto the nail dish as quickly as possible. Once the dab is on the dish and off the dabber, put the dabber aside. Inhale slow and long, just hard enough for your rig to bubble and hard enough so that vapor doesn't rise off the nail and into the air (this is waste). While you do this, place your finger/s over the hole on top of the dome so you have almost completely sealed the hole (once this air gap on the top of the dome is smaller than the gaps around the base of the nail where the vapor is taken into the rig itself, you will get better vaporization and the airflow will tend to stay in the rig between inhalations rather than streaming off the nail.

That's about it man! Hope this helps you

P.S. Remember as well with solvent concentrates, if your dab makes a loud sizzling noise or especially if it sends little smokey fireworks off the nail into the air above it, there is residual solvent - a lot. Don't dab it. Dabbing is a very good way to test for residual solvent this way - I find this sizzling noise does not necessarily happen when we vape concentrates in something like the vapcap so you are left without this way of knowing if you're dabbing iso soup! If your dab is slick (just seems to get smeared about rather than readily coming off on your dabber - especially in that cold UK climate lol) and difficult to remove from parchment or silicone, this is also a sign that you got solvent soup!

 

[herbalist33]

This is similar to what I've done, but I've used a lot less SS concentrate pad in the bottom, just enough to cover the screen and stop goop getting through. Not noticed any gunk in my condensor at all and I predominately use my omnivap inverted

Hey I wanted to stop and discuss the one lingering question I have for the omnivap - the manual suggests not cleaning with alcohol.

Is there a component (the o-rings?) that might get damaged with contact with iso? I am definitely going to need iso to clean that reclaim lol - ain't nobody getting away with concentrate use like this without solvents for cleaning!


Greetings brother! Glad to hear you've enjoyed my posts and I thank you for the kind words!

Interesting to hear that our UK friends are starting to see concentrates appear on the market - I notice this more and more lately on FC! What price was this qwiso going for, if you don't mind me asking? What kind of flavor/consistency/variety btw?

If you ever want to start making your own concentrates - and I strongly recommend this - just drop me a PM with any questions!

Now as to dabbing with a dome and nail, it is actually quite straightforward.

The learning curve is mostly about learning when to let the nail cool down. One thing you need to be sure of is that your quartz nail is quartz, and not borosilicate. Some of the dhgate rig nails that I've seen were glass ones and my buddies broke these with excessive torching.

Here's some basic steps:

1. Place the quartz nail in the GonG joint of your rig.
2. If the nail is quartz, using a blowtorch, heat the quartz with the soft blue (not the bright, opaque blue sharper part of the flame) end of the flame so that this part of the flame wraps around the top part of the nail (do not torch below this top dish of the nail where you put your dab).

Hold the torch flame in the same place until the quartz starts to glow a little bit (do not let it get super red, over torching will cause devitrification of the glassy surface and ruin heat retention). If your nail is borosilicate, you will need to move the flame a little and not concentrate it on one point (this might cause the glass to stress and break - borosilicate starts to face stress and possible breakage at 932f or so - around 500c for our British friends - a torch flame is much hotter than this and I do not recommend the use of glass nails).

3. Place the dome on the GonG joint over the nail! Don't forget this part, if you dab without the dome in place, it's gonna be wasteful!

4. This is one of the main technique parts of dabbing on quartz. You need to now figure out the ideal time to countdown after your heat up in step 2 in order to get the tastiest dabs. Use a timer/stopwatch at first as this will help you get used to how long to wait and keep track of it accurately.

Try waiting 20 seconds right after you stop torching before applying your dab on the dish the first time and see how you go. If the dab tastes harsh and hot (this will make you cough if too hot), you dabbed too soon - wait a little longer. If the dab pools up on the quartz dish and there is a lot of residue left, you dabbed too late after heating - dab sooner next time.

5. The key when you apply your dab to the dish is that you are trying to get the dab off of the dabber and onto the nail dish as quickly as possible. Once the dab is on the dish and off the dabber, put the dabber aside. Inhale slow and long, just hard enough for your rig to bubble and hard enough so that vapor doesn't rise off the nail and into the air (this is waste). While you do this, place your finger/s over the hole on top of the dome so you have almost completely sealed the hole (once this air gap on the top of the dome is smaller than the gaps around the base of the nail where the vapor is taken into the rig itself, you will get better vaporization and the airflow will tend to stay in the rig between inhalations rather than streaming off the nail.

That's about it man! Hope this helps you

P.S. Remember as well with solvent concentrates, if your dab makes a loud sizzling noise or especially if it sends little smokey fireworks off the nail into the air above it, there is residual solvent - a lot. Don't dab it. Dabbing is a very good way to test for residual solvent this way - I find this sizzling noise does not necessarily happen when we vape concentrates in something like the vapcap so you are left without this way of knowing if you're dabbing iso soup! If your dab is slick (just seems to get smeared about rather than readily coming off on your dabber - especially in that cold UK climate lol) and difficult to remove from parchment or silicone, this is also a sign that you got solvent soup!

Awesome! Thanks for the comprehensive reply buddy, those are some great instructions, and il be sure to give them a go on my next day off, when I can really do some science! I think il have to take this convo over to the concentrates thread before we go waaaay off topic, but incase anyone else was wondering too, the qwiso I bought was way over priced (£60 gram... Makes me sick because I've made qwiso myself, just not with prime bud), but I couldn't resist trying it. I tried a dab in my warrantied Maud Dib and I didn't notice any sparking, but I haven't had a good play yet- I'd imagine at the rate I'm using it, this g should last at least a couple months lol. I'm mainly using it for when I want an extra special load in the Vapcap: il just add a tiny blob to a bowl of ground herb, and vape that dry- fantastic!

Oh, and @herbivore21, as you mentioned reclaiming from the Omnivap, il share a solventles method I use (might not work with the amount of reclaim you probably notch up ):

1) Remove condenser from Omnivap.

2) Turn your flame right down low so that you can use it to gently warm up your omni condenser (literally just a second or two heating up and down the condenser will do, just to warm up the honey oil

3) insert a little rolled up ball of hemp fibre/ organic cotton into one end of the condenser, and use a skewer or something similar to push the cotton ball through the condenser and out of the other end.

You now should have a pretty saturated cotton/hemp fibre ball that you can put in your favourite vape and enjoy: I recommend using the OG Vapcap through water (because that's what I've used for this application and it rocks) although I'm sure the Omnivap would work like a charm too!

Peace

 

[Squiby]

the manual suggests not cleaning with alcohol.

Is there a component (the o-rings?) that might get damaged with contact with iso? I am definitely going to need iso to clean that reclaim lol - ain't nobody getting away with concentrate use like this without solvents for cleaning!

I believe that the warning about not using alcohol is a precautionary one. Precautionary against someone cleaning with alcohol, not rinsing or drying properly and then lighting up....

You can use alcohol to clean the tip and condenser, just ensure that you rise with water and allow to dry completely before using. Everything save the orings can be soaked on the OG and Omni. The Woody bodies and mps should not be soaked.

The doob tubes that come with the VCs are great to use as a soaking vessel.

If you are going to soak your condenser rather than passing a pipe cleaner through it, you should remove the orings. I think that they will likely break down sooner if in contact with a solvent.

 

[herbivore21]

Awesome! Thanks for the comprehensive reply buddy, those are some great instructions, and il be sure to give them a go on my next day off, when I can really do some science! I think il have to take this convo over to the concentrates thread before we go waaaay off topic, but incase anyone else was wondering too, the qwiso I bought was way over priced (£60 gram... Makes me sick because I've made qwiso myself, just not with prime bud), but I couldn't resist trying it. I tried a dab in my warrantied Maud Dib and I didn't notice any sparking, but I haven't had a good play yet- I'd imagine at the rate I'm using it, this g should last at least a couple months lol. I'm mainly using it for when I want an extra special load in the Vapcap: il just add a tiny blob to a bowl of ground herb, and vape that dry- fantastic!

Oh, and @herbivore21, as you mentioned reclaiming from the Omnivap, il share a solventles method I use (might not work with the amount of reclaim you probably notch up ):

1) Remove condenser from Omnivap.

2) Turn your flame right down low so that you can use it to gently warm up your omni condenser (literally just a second or two heating up and down the condenser will do, just to warm up the honey oil

3) insert a little rolled up ball of hemp fibre/ organic cotton into one end of the condenser, and use a skewer or something similar to push the cotton ball through the condenser and out of the other end.

You now should have a pretty saturated cotton/hemp fibre ball that you can put in your favourite vape and enjoy: I recommend using the OG Vapcap through water (because that's what I've used for this application and it rocks) although I'm sure the Omnivap would work like a charm too!

Peace

I like to hit the first big rips of my resin through a dry pipe usually, and then finish off the end when the flavor is spent with water works a treat since high quality hash is much smoother to vape than flowers, even huge rips of it! The danger is that the vapor is so smooth on the throat that you don't realize you've overfilled your lungs with super thick vapor and cough before you know it lol

Thanks for sharing your idea too, will have to check it out! Hopefully it doesn't cook the claim much since reclaim from high melt hashes tastes especially amazing!

I am fortunate already to have access to various solventless means to thoroughly clean metals like this that are not practical for most vaporists. In the meantime, I think that Squiby is onto the reason for the manual suggesting not to use flammable solvents...

I believe that the warning about not using alcohol is a precautionary one. Precautionary against someone cleaning with alcohol, not rinsing or drying properly and then lighting up....

You can use alcohol to clean the tip and condenser, just ensure that you rise with water and allow to dry completely before using. Everything save the orings can be soaked on the OG and Omni. The Woody bodies and mps should not be soaked.

The doob tubes that come with the VCs are great to use as a soaking vessel.

If you are going to soak your condenser rather than passing a pipe cleaner through it, you should remove the orings. I think that they will likely break down sooner if in contact with a solvent.

Cheers for the info my friend

I believe you have it here, I'll wait for @VapCap to clarify for certain but this makes sense. Residual iso and fire based heating are a bad combination. Due to the post-iso cleaning methods I use (considerably more rigorous than what I describe here), residual iso is not a relevant consideration so this is no concern.

IME, long soaking of vape o-rings in iso will get nasty, but a brief dip in clean iso will be helpful to get sticky buildup off of them before a cold water rinse and then a long boiling water soak to ensure residual is gone.

The same post-iso cleaning should be done IMO as a bare minimum even with materials safe to leave in iso long term. You would be surprised how many little deposits of iso can get stuck in nooks and especially polymers if not effectively cold-rinsed and heated afterwards.

 

[Vapor_Eyes]

I have a question about using concentrates with hemp fiber/organic cotton. I've tried once before and didn't get good results, even heating past the click pretty far. I don't want to heat too much and damage the cap.

I had better results making a concentrate sandwich with flowers, but I prefer to use concentrates on their own, and I don't like metal coils, mesh, etc., too messy in my opinion.

I would really appreciate a detailed tutorial for usage of concentrates with hemp fiber/organic cotton. I've been using some live resin that is just barely to the point of being crumble if that makes a difference.

 

[herbivore21]

I have a question about using concentrates with hemp fiber/organic cotton. I've tried once before and didn't get good results, even heating past the click pretty far. I don't want to heat too much and damage the cap.

I had better results making a concentrate sandwich with flowers, but I prefer to use concentrates on their own, and I don't like metal coils, mesh, etc., too messy in my opinion.

I would really appreciate a detailed tutorial for usage of concentrates with hemp fiber/organic cotton. I've been using some live resin that is just barely to the point of being crumble if that makes a difference.

I don't enjoy the use of hemp fiber/cotton with concentrates. I have found that they don't so much produce a taste, as a 'texture' or 'feel' to the vapor which I find unpleasant. I use inert grades of SS in as small a coil as possible to prevent gunk going through the screen and find no added taste to the oil this way.

I have had nasty smells come off of such coils back only when I tried to blowtorch them clean once upon a time, this was due to thermal decomposition at super high temps. Your vapcap should not get anywhere near these temps since the vapcap's eponymous SS cap is gonna decompose in the same way!

Concentrates need to be held in place and especially in the case of melty hashes, must have additional heat conducted more directly to as much surface area of the concentrate as possible, this is where SS coils are so helpful. With organic fibers you'll get less efficient heat conduction and so you'll have to heat the cap more.

I have 0 leakage in my setup and the same coils are battle-tested by S&B vape users for all kinds of concentrates which never gunk up their heaters It is quite a simple setup and not at all messy. One single concentrate pad on top of the main screen which is removed and cleaned like the normal screen when I clean the rest of the vape, one small ordinary SS pipe screen above the load to sandwich it in place

Coils also reduce the volume of air that needs to be heated in the bowl when you are using small concentrate loads and so this increases efficiency of heating and can save the life of your cap some more.

Metal coils properly assembled are the best way to prevent concentrates gunking up your unit. There are safety risks though! Purpose made concentrate coils/pads would be very helpful and much preferred to any other option - some will be less confident cutting/shaping one to size than others. If this resizing of a concentrate pad is done improperly, metal shavings in the airpath are a real risk!

I find it is important to press a coil with great force (a vise or clamp, even pliers) to ensure no loose bits of wire are on the edges of the coil where you cut. Do not use your fingers/hands to press SS wire together!!!!

As to how to get the best possible results with organic hemp/cotton, I'm sure others will be able to help

 

[Vapor_Eyes]

I don't enjoy the use of hemp fiber/cotton with concentrates. I have found that they don't so much produce a taste, as a 'texture' or 'feel' to the vapor which I find unpleasant. I use inert grades of SS in as small a coil as possible to prevent gunk going through the screen and find no added taste to the oil this way.

I have had nasty smells come off of such coils back only when I tried to blowtorch them clean once upon a time, this was due to thermal decomposition at super high temps. Your vapcap should not get anywhere near these temps since the vapcap's eponymous SS cap is gonna decompose in the same way!

Concentrates need to be held in place and especially in the case of melty hashes, must have additional heat conducted more directly to as much surface area of the concentrate as possible, this is where SS coils are so helpful. With organic fibers you'll get less efficient heat conduction and so you'll have to heat the cap more.

I have 0 leakage in my setup and the same coils are battle-tested by S&B vape users for all kinds of concentrates which never gunk up their heaters It is quite a simple setup and not at all messy. One single concentrate pad on top of the main screen which is removed and cleaned like the normal screen when I clean the rest of the vape, one small ordinary SS pipe screen above the load to sandwich it in place

Coils also reduce the volume of air that needs to be heated in the bowl when you are using small concentrate loads and so this increases efficiency of heating and can save the life of your cap some more.

Metal coils properly assembled are the best way to prevent concentrates gunking up your unit. There are safety risks though! Purpose made concentrate coils/pads would be very helpful and much preferred to any other option - some will be less confident cutting/shaping one to size than others. If this resizing of a concentrate pad is done improperly, metal shavings in the airpath are a real risk!

I find it is important to press a coil with great force (a vise or clamp, even pliers) to ensure no loose bits of wire are on the edges of the coil where you cut. Do not use your fingers/hands to press SS wire together!!!!

As to how to get the best possible results with organic hemp/cotton, I'm sure others will be able to help

Thanks for the advice. I do have a couple S&B pads. I've used the mesh with my log vape and didn't find any difference in flavor compared to organic cotton. Perhaps there was a slight difference in mouthfeel like you mention. It was, however, quite messy and would leak, even with two layers of mesh. Maybe I was overloading it.

Honestly I have experienced sublime flavor using organic cotton, probably the best flavor I have experienced vaping. At lower temperatures it is neutral.

If I were to go the coil/mesh route I would want a dedicated Ti tip which wouldn't be a big deal. I do appreciate your advice and I may attempt it before too long.

I would also still like to hear about cotton or hemp usage. I just got a bunch of hemp fiber with my latest order, I haven't cracked it open yet.

 

[herbivore21]

Thanks for the advice. I do have a couple S&B pads. I've used the mesh with my log vape and didn't find any difference in flavor compared to organic cotton. Perhaps there was a slight difference in mouthfeel like you mention. It was, however, quite messy and would leak, even with two layers of mesh. Maybe I was overloading it.

Honestly I have experienced sublime flavor using organic cotton, probably the best flavor I have experienced vaping. At lower temperatures it is neutral.

If I were to go the coil/mesh route I would want a dedicated Ti tip which wouldn't be a big deal. I do appreciate your advice and I may attempt it before too long.

I would also still like to hear about cotton or hemp usage. I just got a bunch of hemp fiber with my latest order, I haven't cracked it open yet.

All reasonable points, I think one major factor in my experience is that hashes require more heat than other concentrates where the resin glands are ruptured and the membranes filtered out of the final product. This is likely to provide more of a nasty mouthfeel again than you had noticed which might explain the difference in our experiences

 

[Vapor_Eyes]

All reasonable points, I think one major factor in my experience is that hashes require more heat than other concentrates where the resin glands are ruptured and the membranes filtered out of the final product. This is likely to provide more of a nasty mouthfeel again than you had noticed which might explain the difference in our experiences

Yeah, I haven't had any hash in a long time. What I get ranges from crumble to shatter. I miss the taste and effects of classic hash, good stuff!

 

[stark1]

does hash have differing vaporization temps from grass,
recently got some but have yet to try it in a Vcap....

 

[Vapor_Eyes]

one small ordinary SS pipe screen above the load to sandwich it in place

Is this screen cut to fit the chamber perfectly, roughly 8mm diameter? Or are you using a bent/folded up screen to take up more volume?

 

[herbivore21]

Is this screen cut to fit the chamber perfectly, roughly 8mm diameter? Or are you using a bent/folded up screen to take up more volume?

Probably about 10-12mm actually. Just gently pushed in concave so that the centre touches the top of the load and the edges are flush or below the outer lip of the chamber.

I am sure folding it up to take up volume will work too

 

[Vapor_Eyes]

Probably about 10-12mm actually. Just gently pushed in concave so that the centre touches the top of the load and the edges are flush or below the outer lip of the chamber.

I am sure folding it up to take up volume will work too

Thanks for the speedy response!

One last question, is the top screen easy to remove? I guess I'll find out eventually. I might try building this later today. At first I was thinking Ti tip but now I'm thinking the OG might be the better choice as mine seems to reach higher temps easier than my Ti tips. And it might be easier to collect the reclaim in the OG. I bought a Skillet Tool Flexy on @farscaper's recommendation to help with that process. It's a great dab tool in general.

 

[Quetzalcoatl]

does hash have differing vaporization temps from grass,
recently got some but have yet to try it in a Vcap....

There isn't really anything to muck up that you can't clean with the VapCap. Go for the click and play with the carb, get a feel for how the hash you have vaporizes and once you get a feel for it you can go further with the heat past the click. My VapCap made hash enjoyable to vaporize with.

 

[herbivore21]

There isn't really anything to muck up that you can't clean with the VapCap. Go for the click and play with the carb, get a feel for how the hash you have vaporizes and once you get a feel for it you can go further with the heat past the click. My VapCap made hash enjoyable to vaporize with.

This sums it up. The setup I'm using with the omnivap is just so convenient to load, reload and clean. I love the flavor I'm getting from some very melty 4 star hash.

To the vaping temp for hash, you tend to wanna go hotter for hash than flowers. How much hotter could be a very little bit (or even what we might consider a high temp for flowers) to a whole lot depending on how melty the hash in question is and if there is any contaminant that might be combusted.

The benefit of the meltier higher quality hashes is that they are not really possible to combust. Here the focus shifts to making sure you have a competent coil/screen/pad setup to avoid gunk going through your condenser when the hash melts.

For lower grade hash that doesn't melt but burns when heated, you should start with flower temps (follow the clicks until you get good vapor, then experiment with more heat like @Quetzalcoatl says). If you have very melty (4 star or higher) hash, you are going to want to heat past the click for up to even a few seconds to get a good hit. Melty hash requires more heat than a dab!

@Vapor_Eyes the top screen is extremely easy to remove and clean between loads. Even the meltiest hash (especially the meltiest hash!), when fully vaporized will leave a very dry, dust like powder residue in between the pad and screen. It can be dusted out with a light brush (wait til the cap cools right down!) very quickly to get a very satisfactory clean between bowls. If you don't have a brush on hand, the digger-outer on the cap can be used to do the job with a little more effort. This ease of use is what has me so happy with the whole vapcap design.

For my , I think I'd favor the ti tip more for hash use since we are putting a bit more heat into the cap than for flower use. I also find that a small bowl of hash lasts many many large hits. It is good to have rapid cooldown from ti since it preserves your hash between hits and keeps the flavor better for longer.