Dabpress Rosin Plates
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I only do a 10g puck as it is easy to manage, I have done 14g in a single 40mm puck but it was a pain to get between the plates. You can do 2x pucks at once, so pressing 20g at a time is easy, 28 can be done but the prepress would need an Irwin clamped to pre squish it enough to fit between the plates more easily.
Edit, no more smell than just having the buds sitting on the table.
That 14g squish was pretty epic @LesPlenty I'm curious if The Church will be able to pack in like that. Just the nugs alone are so hard they cant be compressed with fingers, a half gram nug is really small. I'm so used to my sativa dominant skunk hybrids are about 33% larger and spongy like cake.
BabyFacedFinster
Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
Would you say this applies to flower pressing also?
I have the 6 ton press and usually press 3.5g pucks. I am always listening and watching during a press. I can hear the light crackling sound of the rosin coming out of the buds, and if the buds are dank enough then I can see rosin coming from the edges of the plates. Once I see this, should I not apply more pressure? I have always figured that the rosin needs to come from the depths (center) of the puck so you keep pressing until you have maxed out the press with significant arm pressure on the handle.
Not having a gauge, I have maxed out pressure at the end of each press and have experimented more with temp, heat soak, and time.
Howdy FC!
Our new 4-ton 3x5" bottle jack powered all-in-one heat press machine dp-bj4t35, is now available on the official webstore and Amazon USA, sale price is $369!
Factory direct -
https://www.dabpress.com/collection...rosin-heat-press-machine-driptech-intergrated
Amazon -
https://smile.amazon.com/Hydraulic-dp-bj3t33-Anodized-Accurate-Detected/dp/B07KQ387F3
With the available tonnage, this press can easily press out a single 10-12g puck using our large cylinder pre-press mold dp-pm40r, or our rectangle pre-press mold dp-pm4007s for 10-12g as well. You will be able to press out larger amounts of hash due to less pressure needed.
Now is the best time to get started with rosin if you need a personal press.
Until Nov 30th 2019, please use coupon code DP10 during checkout on the factory webstore www.dabpress.com, to save money on your order. Please note, bundle offer discounts do not stack with coupon codes.
Our new 4-ton 3x5" bottle jack powered all-in-one heat press machine dp-bj4t35, is now available on the official webstore and Amazon USA, sale price is $369!
Factory direct -
https://www.dabpress.com/collection...rosin-heat-press-machine-driptech-intergrated
Amazon -
https://smile.amazon.com/Hydraulic-dp-bj3t33-Anodized-Accurate-Detected/dp/B07KQ387F3
With the available tonnage, this press can easily press out a single 10-12g puck using our large cylinder pre-press mold dp-pm40r, or our rectangle pre-press mold dp-pm4007s for 10-12g as well. You will be able to press out larger amounts of hash due to less pressure needed.
Now is the best time to get started with rosin if you need a personal press.
Until Nov 30th 2019, please use coupon code DP10 during checkout on the factory webstore www.dabpress.com, to save money on your order. Please note, bundle offer discounts do not stack with coupon codes.
Flower needs more pressure than hash cause you are extruding the melting resin through many more nooks and crannies in the plant material.
With hash you're essentially just melting it through the filter bag. With the 6 ton I usually apply pressure when it feels like it will take some, if it takes significant force when cranking the handle it's probably too soon to be adding pressure IMO but Id be curious to hear what others think. It's hard to explain in text but if you picture in your head how the puck feels when it's just wetting out, and then how it feels to press too hard, right through the paper, and just kind of mentally divide that in half, that's where you want to be.
There's a large possibility that made zero sense and Im gonna have to blame it on the blueberry haze hash rosin
Now I might crank a little harder if I'm re-pressing pucks for time capsules, but one thing I've learned is to really try to avoid using so much temperature or pressure that the rosin is a chore/burden to collect. That really kills the buzz!!
CR250M
Ontario, CA
hi @psychonaut
will the 4ton bottle jack, two 3"x5" insulators and plates be available to users of the bj3t33 looking for an upgrade?
will the 4ton bottle jack, two 3"x5" insulators and plates be available to users of the bj3t33 looking for an upgrade?
Are the bags supposed to have this much gap down the sides or do dabpress make the bags too big for the recommended prepress.?
Since the pre-press mold has inserts to make smaller pucks, the less material you have loaded the more of a gap you will have. 11-12g should fill the bag, 7g should have a gap that will fill in as the material is pressed out.
started@52
Well-Known Member
Inserts?
dp-pm4007s includes 2pc PETP sheet inserts to make slimmer pucks, here is a picture from Amazon's shop, our webstore doesn't have the updated photos showing them.
CR250M
Ontario, CA
I was gonna try flipping the 3"x3" plates upside down and adding rectangular spacers to fill in the machined areas and remount them, but wasn't sure if the undersides were anodized as well.... on second thought the undersides probably have the threaded bolt holes that would be "exposed" on the "new" pressing surface...
hoping 3"x5" plates are available so I can do two 7g bags side by each..
hoping 3"x5" plates are available so I can do two 7g bags side by each..
I was gonna try flipping the 3"x3" plates upside down and adding rectangular spacers to fill in the machined areas and remount them, but wasn't sure if the undersides were anodized as well.... on second thought the undersides probably have the threaded bolt holes that would be "exposed" on the "new" pressing surface...
hoping 3"x5" plates are available so I can do two 7g bags side by each..
Howdy! I put in a request with the factory engineers to see what upgrade path there is for the bj3t33. Give me a couple of days to find out, they are really busy with our current promo. For now I wouldn't make any changes to your press, no need to start machining quite yet!
Thanks I was worried about over loading but even with 12g there is space to spread
You have some dense material my friend, enjoy that squish! I would keep the load centered in the filter so when it expands it will fill in. We're looking for a finished puck size around 2x3" and pressing it out with about 3 tons of force.
BabyFacedFinster
Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
Flower needs more pressure than hash cause you are extruding the melting resin through many more nooks and crannies in the plant material.
With hash you're essentially just melting it through the filter bag. With the 6 ton I usually apply pressure when it feels like it will take some, if it takes significant force when cranking the handle it's probably too soon to be adding pressure IMO but Id be curious to hear what others think. It's hard to explain in text but if you picture in your head how the puck feels when it's just wetting out, and then how it feels to press too hard, right through the paper, and just kind of mentally divide that in half, that's where you want to be.
There's a large possibility that made zero sense and Im gonna have to blame it on the blueberry haze hash rosin
Now I might crank a little harder if I'm re-pressing pucks for time capsules, but one thing I've learned is to really try to avoid using so much temperature or pressure that the rosin is a chore/burden to collect. That really kills the buzz!!
Thanks. I get that while compressing the puck, I should let the collapsing herb absorb (or buckle under) the pressure and not force it. I just didn't know how much more pressure after the puck is crushed as far as it will go. Not taking it to the max makes sense. I haven't torn the parchment very much, but sometimes it seems like a little rosin can be pushed right through the parchment to the other side.
BTW @psychonaut , that new 4 ton unit looks very sweet.
I have the 10ton press with the recommended pump with a gauge that goes way past where I think I need to be, do you know the max psi I should go for with these plates if talking a 2x3.5"puck? Struggling with the mathsLess pressure will usually lighten the color of my rosin too
I've talked with someone who freezes their pucks before pressing but I personally don't. I like flower that's hydrated to about 60-62% RH stored in jars in a cool room around 55-60F max.
I have the 10ton press with the recommended pump with a gauge that goes way past where I think I need to be, do you know the max psi I should go for with these plates if talking a 2x3.5"puck? Struggling with the maths
2x3.5" finished puck size after squished? 7 sq/in
If we want 1000 PSI on the material, we need 7000 lbs of force total.
7000 / 2.25 = 3111 PSI on the gauge needed.
I would break this all down for you but I've probably said it a dozen times in this thread already, and I get members complaining about my rambling. Just understand that if you want to know the total pressure being delivered, take the PSI reading on the gauge and multiply that by 2.25 for the 10-ton unit to find the total pressure being delivered. From there you have to divide that pressure out into the surface area of your material.
You have to do this math for each different puck size, like measuring ingredients for a food recipe.
I use this prepress mold,
https://www.dabpress.com/collection...ts/dp-pm40r-prepress-mold?variant=48968854164
I can press between 5 and 14g in on puck (I stick to 10g or more) and I will press between 2200psi and 3000psi for different color and consistency just to change things up as I am a 1 mumma plant man (one strain for last year or so and 4 crops of the same bud stored)
Hope that helps
That is at the gauge of the standard dabpress pump? Sorry I am still a bit confused sometimes by these psi and tons and lbs and all. While I get the theory I am not sure or confident what my gauge really indicates.
So for me atm it is about to find the max pressure for bagged flower before yields begin to diminish again, at a given temperature.
@psychonaut recommends 1000 psi at the bagged flower as this sweet spot.
I did not have a dabpress pump, so I was not really confident about the psi showing at the gauge.
I just used the gauge-hand as a control and for repeatable results up to now.
If the paper or the bags tear, it is too much pressure, or too much, too quick.
When it only seeps into or through the paper, pressure is better. But still too high. The kind of parchment probably would matter a bit too. At least I have a paper where I easily need 3 layers.
This is what I thought I gathered from FC up to now.
So just to try to gauge my experience against others:
When you press at the recommended 1000 psi at the bagged flower, does it stain your parchment, seep a little into it?
Or does it stay completely clean or get clean after collection?
(Does temperature change the seeping? (Can you press stronger at lower temperatures without seeping into the paper?)
Lets admit humidity is always at 62%.)
P.S. The seeping is not a big problem itself, I just think it might help me find that sweet spot.
@Sick Vape
Here is ~1200 PSI at the material. IME this is really the far edge of where we want to be, any more pressure and I'm just pressing out chlorophyll and other undesireables as indicated by the darker oil being extracted once those levels of pressure are reached.
The PSI measurement on the gauge is only measuring the pressure in the hydraulic system, it has no way of knowing what tonnage cylinder we are using or how large of pucks we are pressing. That's why we have to be math wizards to figure this out lol
The cylinder effective area (each cylinder has it's own #) is what converts the pressure in the hydraulic system (i.e. pressure registering on the gauge) to actual total pressure delivered. For the 10-ton press the cylinder effective area is 2.25, for thet 12-ton press it's 2.75. Pressure on gauge x cylinder effective area = total pressure being delivered.
For this reason, it's why the same 10000 PSI hand pump works with 5, 10, 15 or 20 ton cylinders.
With more effective area inside of the cylinder, we are able to deliver more force, and this is where we need to be scientists to understand all of that
BTW this is some of my own The Church by greenhouse seeds, pressed with ~1200 PSI at the material at 200F for 2 mins. RH of the flower was 60% in the jar and the room was mid 50's. Flower was jarred a little over 6 weeks ago. 19.5% yield off misc smalls, I expect the tops will be yielding a couple % more!
Here is ~1200 PSI at the material. IME this is really the far edge of where we want to be, any more pressure and I'm just pressing out chlorophyll and other undesireables as indicated by the darker oil being extracted once those levels of pressure are reached.
The PSI measurement on the gauge is only measuring the pressure in the hydraulic system, it has no way of knowing what tonnage cylinder we are using or how large of pucks we are pressing. That's why we have to be math wizards to figure this out lol
The cylinder effective area (each cylinder has it's own #) is what converts the pressure in the hydraulic system (i.e. pressure registering on the gauge) to actual total pressure delivered. For the 10-ton press the cylinder effective area is 2.25, for thet 12-ton press it's 2.75. Pressure on gauge x cylinder effective area = total pressure being delivered.
For this reason, it's why the same 10000 PSI hand pump works with 5, 10, 15 or 20 ton cylinders.
With more effective area inside of the cylinder, we are able to deliver more force, and this is where we need to be scientists to understand all of that
BTW this is some of my own The Church by greenhouse seeds, pressed with ~1200 PSI at the material at 200F for 2 mins. RH of the flower was 60% in the jar and the room was mid 50's. Flower was jarred a little over 6 weeks ago. 19.5% yield off misc smalls, I expect the tops will be yielding a couple % more!
started@52
Well-Known Member
@Sick Vape
Here is ~1200 PSI at the material. IME this is really the far edge of where we want to be, any more pressure and I'm just pressing out chlorophyll and other undesireables as indicated by the darker oil being extracted once those levels of pressure are reached.
The PSI measurement on the gauge is only measuring the pressure in the hydraulic system, it has no way of knowing what tonnage cylinder we are using or how large of pucks we are pressing. That's why we have to be math wizards to figure this out lol
The cylinder effective area (each cylinder has it's own #) is what converts the pressure in the hydraulic system (i.e. pressure registering on the gauge) to actual total pressure delivered. For the 10-ton press the cylinder effective area is 2.25, for thet 12-ton press it's 2.75. Pressure on gauge x cylinder effective area = total pressure being delivered.
For this reason, it's why the same 10000 PSI hand pump works with 5, 10, 15 or 20 ton cylinders.
With more effective area inside of the cylinder, we are able to deliver more force, and this is where we need to be scientists to understand all of that
BTW this is some of my own The Church by greenhouse seeds, pressed with ~1200 PSI at the material at 200F for 2 mins. RH of the flower was 60% in the jar and the room was mid 50's. Flower was jarred a little over 6 weeks ago. 19.5% yield off misc smalls, I expect the tops will be yielding a couple % more!
Are you using your pump and gauge? Can you show us where on the gauge you believe 1000psi is(gauge pressure not at the material) anything under 2500 gauge reading is confusing on the gauge that comes with the pump.
Also, What is needed to replace that gauge with one that only goes to 5k? Don’t care if it’s rated for 10 or 12 tons as I will never go over 3500, probably much less. I took mine off and it looks like finer metric threads and not npt.