@Sick Vape
Here is ~1200 PSI at the material. IME this is really the far edge of where we want to be, any more pressure and I'm just pressing out chlorophyll and other undesireables as indicated by the darker oil being extracted once those levels of pressure are reached.
The PSI measurement on the gauge is only measuring the pressure in the hydraulic system, it has no way of knowing what tonnage cylinder we are using or how large of pucks we are pressing. That's why we have to be math wizards to figure this out lol
The cylinder effective area (each cylinder has it's own #) is what converts the pressure in the hydraulic system (i.e. pressure registering on the gauge) to actual total pressure delivered. For the 10-ton press the cylinder effective area is 2.25, for thet 12-ton press it's 2.75. Pressure on gauge x cylinder effective area = total pressure being delivered.
For this reason, it's why the same 10000 PSI hand pump works with 5, 10, 15 or 20 ton cylinders.
With more effective area inside of the cylinder, we are able to deliver more force, and this is where we need to be scientists to understand all of that
BTW this is some of my own The Church by greenhouse seeds, pressed with ~1200 PSI at the material at 200F for 2 mins. RH of the flower was 60% in the jar and the room was mid 50's. Flower was jarred a little over 6 weeks ago. 19.5% yield off misc smalls, I expect the tops will be yielding a couple % more!
Thanks alot for your explanations and the picture. It is very helpful. I think I now know about where I am compared to other rosineers and my pump gauge measures about the same as yours.
Maybe I am pushing all this too far. But I so love that with this setup hr10t35v I can go by feel or by science, or both.
And I have to say, you are doing a fantastic job with your explanations
@psychonaut ! Everything is so transparent. Thank you.
Are you using your pump and gauge? Can you show us where on the gauge you believe 1000psi is(gauge pressure not at the material) anything under 2500 gauge reading is confusing on the gauge that comes with the pump.
Also, What is needed to replace that gauge with one that only goes to 5k? Don’t care if it’s rated for 10 or 12 tons as I will never go over 3500, probably much less. I took mine off and it looks like finer metric threads and not npt.
That is a good question. I cannot make a picture of my pump, right now, but the gauge looks very similar to the integrated gauge on the dp-cp590g:
The gauge is a M16 threading which is not a standard threading for any gauges that I've found. So we consider this a proprietary gauge for the pump. A secondary gauge can be installed between the hose and the hand pump if you want a gauge with finer resolution. Our gauge included in our gauge kit dp-gk1 goes up to 10000 PSI and has a much better resolution. There are a lot of gauge options out there based on resolution, threading and accuracy. Our gauge kit offers 1/4" NPT female threading for the gauge port in the t-manifold.
Here's the integrated gauge on our dp-cp590g, the 1000 PSI mark would be just below the 2nd red line which is half way from 0-2500 PSI.
Here's the 10000 PSI gauge included in our gauge kit, the resolution starts at 400 PSI and graduated every 200 PSI.
There are also digital gauges out there if you wanna be a baller.
I was thinking between two long red lines are 2500 psi. Between 2 short ones 500 psi.
So for 2000 psi I was aiming for the last red line before the 2500 psi mark.
For 1000 psi I was aiming for the first red line on the scale. According to
@psychonaut this was not absolutely correct. He aims for around the 10 MPa mark or just under the second red line on the psi scale, If I got that right. In my former presses I anyway went higher with the pressure (due to puck size or me wanting to squeeze out every last bit), so I think it did not matter that much where exactly these 1000 psi were, up to now.
I see now that the quality definitely increases with lower pressure:
Yes, gauge pressure.
I get a seeping stain on my cheapo parchment paper left behind after pressing.
This stuff was taken to 2750psi on my gauge (40mm, 12g puck, 107C, 5 mins total, 1 min max pressure),
Same buds and temp but only 2500psi, then I repressed the puck to 3000psi (no blowout) and what I got extra was that is the small dark blob at the bottom of the puck, the nasties
@psychonaut mentioned,
exactly what you demonstrate here.
I agree the quality is way lower on the last drops.
For comparisons sake I did a small open blast BHO of some trim and thin lower buds.
The butane was "zero impurities" from the grow shop. After thorough evaporation of the solvent the BHO smelled pretty nice/terpy. Nicer than the last drops of rosin.
Then dabbing: the "last drop" rosin tastes somehow, not really terpy but not really bad either.
Then the BHO. I almost puked in comparison. It tasted/smelled exactly like when you inhale the air out of an inflatable mattress.lol don't ask me how I know
.
So for me the verdict is clear, rosin wins against open blast BHO taste wise anytime!
I never really liked BHO extracts (or any solvent extract). Might be different in a legal country.
@LesPlenty107°C is pretty hot. Did you get a bit of a caramel taste with that temperature? I did not go over 95°C with my °C unit for now.
BTW on one of your photos in the background, you had a great comparison scale °C/°F. Where did you find that one? I did not like those I found, that much.
You are an artist indeed.
nicely done friend, enjoy your pressing time!