Cheap High Quality Bubbler

[ataxian]

I use it with my cloud and totally love it! But I love small pieces, so it's perfect for me. The only bad part is the balance

I like small Bubblers, Ash Collectors, Sherlocks (J-Hooks) and whatever else is possible. The NANO is so small with incredible power so it fits well with my glass set ups. The EVO CLOUD is a fine unit however I get so medicated from my cheap units I can't justify sending that much money to heat FLOWERS?
Maybe I just don't understand?

 

[equatorgringo]

I hear ya but from my walks around most of the import mkts,I havent seen those particular rigs for less(double H/C TO CYCLONE) for under 100 bucks,IIRC I think he wants 104 and change,no?I'd jump on one for 50 bucks but not common. There are few posters who might have purchased rigs from them with good results. Pipes Daddy has something similar for under $80 http://www.pipesdaddy.com/Bent-2-Honeycomb-Glass-Water-Pipe-p/wp-0200-0001.htm you may like that one, both are decent rigs,I dont know the true specifics, but what is presented to me on both sites looks good.I personally would go the less expensive route ,but thats just me,YMMV

That's a cool one. I've been eyeing this one the last couple days on that site:

http://www.pipesdaddy.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=WP-0186

Not SO cheap especially after shipping but I think we've all seen worse.

Edit: Man for the sake of my current GAS issue I better get my Chinese glass soon, if not I'm going to start pulling triggers on stuff I like and are deals just to get something new to me!!!

 

[xRUFUSx]

... an effective milking volume ...

Yes you nailed it, effective milking volume - that's what I want to know when buying. It should be in the glossary starting now lol. And yeah it probably won't be a spec... ever, but it's an important characteristic of a piece, no? I think some rough EMV figures (even +/- 10% margin of error?) could help someone make a choice to best suit their pulling style in general, and especially in the context of this thread's title with only a few pieces being spotlit and so many asking for help deciding between them.

I'd like to measure the EMV's of some pieces I'm familiar with and get a sense of reference... does anyone else care about this crap? I always factor in the possibility I'm a bit loony

 

[Tweak]

I'd like to measure the EMV's of some pieces I'm familiar with and get a sense of reference... does anyone else care about this crap?

IMO, it would be hard to put a number on any given piece. Each piece might be made slightly different, and we all use different water levels.

And would you take into account the bubbles being displaced as part of the volume for milk? Cause even that differs with how hard someone draws.

 

[flotntoke]

IMO, it would be hard to put a number on any given piece. Each piece might be made slightly different, and we all use different water levels.

Each piece WILL be slightly different and seems especially true with Chinese glass. I'm sure the popularity of some pieces - like the D020 - will make that even more so as vendors try to load up on what becomes popular. I doubt they follow FC or other forums and probably are caught by surprise when the orders pile up on one particular unit. Am guessing this leads to a mad rush for production, probably leading to different places actually blowing and assembling the glass. So, differences are bound to appear. BTW.... think the major difference that has been seen with D020 is size of the slits.

As far as volume and performance, check out vids where possible and try to use the GonG as a point of reference. 18mm (or 14mm) GonGs are sized, so should be pretty much the same no matter what they're on. Not always easy or totally accurate while looking at a picture or vid, but should give you an idea.

 

[ataxian]

Yes you nailed it, effective milking volume -

Wax Pen Set up!

 

[Frederick McGuire]

@Fredrick McGuire I paid only $28 for the D020 Bubbler and its better than a $180 piece I have.
My wife and I were blown away at the quality of this piece?
The glass was thicker than the US piece. (7mm vs. 5mm)

For people like me who want what you have for a fraction of the cost it's worth it!

Just do it. How much was your Ion?

It may look similar but the size is much smaller than your Ion. Did you see the photo I uploaded with the D020 sitting next to the Clear Matrix? IMO, it would fit in well with your Mobius family, .

Ok, you guys convinced me
I ordered through the sunshine glass iOffer store, so should I be expecting an email to pay for it in a day or three?

 

[Tweak]

Ok, you guys convinced me

You ordered just one?

That's how it worked for me: Item Purchased: Jan 26, 2014, Email was received on Jan 29, 2014.

I guess you could email them first sunshineglassart@gmail.com. I ordered from dhgate.com.

Order from both, see which one gets there quicker .

I do have an order in for another piece, and its been 9 days and they haven't shipped yet, so they might still be on vacation.

 

[ataxian]

You ordered just one?

That's how it worked for me: Item Purchased: Jan 26, 2014, Email was received on Jan 29, 2014.

I guess you could email them first sunshineglassart@gmail.com. I ordered from dhgate.com.

Order from both, see which one gets there quicker .

I do have an order in for another piece, and its been 9 days and they haven't shipped yet, so they might still be on vacation.

China is shut down for HOLIDAY!
FEB 15 business as usual.
I must of just made the cut off?
The D020 is Medicating!
Can't wait to order more glass!
You'll like your glass!

 

[Frederick McGuire]

Haha, yeah, just one

I managed to talk a seller down in another piece I was purchasing, so I feel like I basically got it for free

If you count the hydratube from the EVO IGG bundle, I'm now waiting on 4 pieces to be shipped to me

 

[Quetzalcoatl]

Haha, yeah, just one

I managed to talk a seller down in another piece I was purchasing, so I feel like I basically got it for free

If you count the hydratube from the EVO IGG bundle, I'm now waiting on 4 pieces to be shipped to me

I'm expecting packages in the mail as well, both vape and non-vape stuff. The waiting sucks for me and I can't imagine having to wait like you!!

 

[Frederick McGuire]

I like to think I've mastered the art of international postage zen

 

[xRUFUSx]

IMO, it would be hard to put a number on any given piece. Each piece might be made slightly different, and we all use different water levels.

And would you take into account the bubbles being displaced as part of the volume for milk? Cause even that differs with how hard someone draws.

All true. This is all very interesting to me, though its getting off topic... does this need to get moved?
For simplicity's sake, I say measurements should be made at rest. I think provide a static figure, and let people factor it into how it handles their unique ripping styles.

To reflect water level variability, EMV would have to be a range. The minimum number would represent the piece when filled with max water, almost to the point of being impractical, and the maximum number would represent the piece with as little water as possible for the perc to function as designed.

Basically, I think EMV should be a range of practical use. Widths of EMV ranges will vary. Seems like beaker bottoms etc would have a very wide EMV range, depending on the size and length of downstem, for example. Also, with EMV as a range, it allows for some inconsistency in manufacturing. I hope manufacture's would also realize that EMV is like a shoe size - exaggerating it doesn't necessarily help sell more units.

Hypothetically, if a bubbler has an EMV of 100-140 cm3, I would probably be using it at around an EMV of 130 cm3 (on the high side - more air), because I like my water levels pretty modest. I haven't made reference measurements yet, so I don't know what what 130 cm3 feels like. is there a way to format superscript for cubic centimeters...

 

[Frederick McGuire]

I honestly don't think this "EMV" stat you're trying to establish will be all that useful..

Things like drag and diffusion are way more important IMO...

For example, I have a möbius clear matrix and reti.
They are supposed to have the exact same form factor, yet my reti is maybe 0.5-1cm taller than the matrix.
(Some quick maths:
75mm can - (5mm wall x2) = 65mm internal diameter =32.5mm=3.25cm internal radius
Area = Pi r2 = 33.18cm2
33.18cm2 x 0.5cm = 16.59cm3
33.18cm2 x 1cm = 33.18cm3

So right there, we have a "EMV" variance of 16-35cm3 between 2 pieces that should be identical.

Then factor in that you can vary water levels quite a bit (let's say 3cm so we can do some more fun maths )
33.18cm2 x 3cm = 99.54cm3

So if you add the water level variance and the variance from the pieces themselves, you can be varying by up to 130cm3...

Now, going by a graphic in the mobius thread, the can on a clear is approx 6inches = 15cm tall.
Assuming a minimum fill of 5cm, that would leave you with an "EMV" (just for the can, not factoring in the neck) of
33.18cm2 x 10cm = 331.8cm3

So you've got a potential 10% difference just based on the shape of the piece coming out of the factory, and another potential 30% variance based on personal preference of water level...
It just seems too wishy washy to me...

I'm not saying you should give up on the idea, just throwing my out there...

 

[Quetzalcoatl]

How do we account for bends and bubble dynamic affecting draw/chug? Water level rises when pulling on pieces...

 

[Frederick McGuire]

Well, the water level would rise, but the water volume would be the same...
Assuming the "EMV" is purely the amount of airspace inside a piece, then stacking etc wouldn't affect it.

 

[xRUFUSx]

I honestly don't think this "EMV" stat you're trying to establish will be all that useful..

Things like drag and diffusion are way more important IMO...

For example, I have a möbius clear matrix and reti.
They are supposed to have the exact same form factor, yet my reti is maybe 0.5-1cm taller than the matrix.
(Some quick maths:
75mm can - (5mm wall x2) = 65mm internal diameter =32.5mm=3.25cm internal radius
Area = Pi r2 = 33.18cm2
33.18cm2 x 0.5cm = 16.59cm3
33.18cm2 x 1cm = 33.18cm3

So right there, we have a "EMV" variance of 16-35cm3 between 2 pieces that should be identical.

Then factor in that you can vary water levels quite a bit (let's say 3cm so we can do some more fun maths )
33.18cm2 x 3cm = 99.54cm3

So if you add the water level variance and the variance from the pieces themselves, you can be varying by up to 130cm3...

Now, going by a graphic in the mobius thread, the can on a clear is approx 6inches = 15cm tall.
Assuming a minimum fill of 5cm, that would leave you with an "EMV" (just for the can, not factoring in the neck) of
33.18cm2 x 10cm = 331.8cm3

So you've got a potential 10% difference just based on the shape of the piece coming out of the factory, and another potential 30% variance based on personal preference of water level...
It just seems too wishy washy to me...

I'm not saying you should give up on the idea, just throwing my out there...

I agree it's wishy washy, and yeah there would be a range (to account for minimum and maximum useful water levels). EMV as a stat would be especially helpful imo as a comparison tool for online glass shopping - for pieces you only have JPEGS, HxWxD, and reviews to judge from. Knowing the EMV of only one or two pieces is kind of useless.

Well, the water level would rise, but the water volume would be the same...
Assuming the "EMV" is purely the amount of airspace inside a piece, then stacking etc wouldn't affect it.

Right right.

Even now I'm torn between this ole single HC and this inline thingy, and I want the one with the least maximum EMV. Frankly, I can't think of a better way to refer to potential milk space than EMV.

 

[Deadshort480]

I agree it's wishy washy, and yeah there would be a range (to account for minimum and maximum useful water levels). EMV as a stat would be especially helpful imo as a comparison tool for online glass shopping - for pieces you only have JPEGS, HxWxD, and reviews to judge from. Knowing the EMV of only one or two pieces is kind of useless.
Right right.

Even now I'm torn between this ole single HC and this inline thingy, and I want the one with the least maximum EMV. Frankly, I can't think of a better way to refer to potential milk space than EMV.

Go for the inline. It's not big.

 

[xRUFUSx]

Thanks for the recommendation Deadshort. TBH I want all of em the more I weigh these little pieces against each other... for starters, the cheaper ones
Does anyone who owns one of these

mind measuring the inside length between the end piece GG lip and the first 90 degree knuckle? I'm trying to determine which size of this downstem adapter for some extra perc, and to help keep that first knuckle clean from combustion terds. The shorties are 1.7", 2.15", 3", and up from there.

The HC might not like the extra turbulence pre perc. Idk, just curious how big a DS I can cram in there.

 

[Deadshort480]

Does anyone who owns one of these

mind measuring the inside length between the end piece GG lip and the first 90 degree knuckle? I'm trying to determine which size of this downstem adapter for some extra perc, and to help keep that first knuckle clean from combustion terds. The shorties are 1.7", 2.15", 3", and up from there.

The HC might not like the extra turbulence pre perc. Idk, just curious how big a DS I can cram in there.

This is where Chinese glass can get tricky. The input on these are not all the same length. You may have some with placement the same as the picture and some higher than that. There may be some out there with an even shorter stem. Remember that all glass will vary, even models that are exactly the same. Someone may own the same exact bubbler I own, they may look the same, but there can be differences that are quite major when comparing the two pieces that are supposed to be the same.

Edit: you may want to look into adding an ash catcher instead of a mini downstem. I don't know if you'll get much, if any, percolation through the downstem because the nature of stemless pieces is that the knuckle is usually evacuated of water upon the draw.

 

[xRUFUSx]

Might as well mention this "Lab Glass Washing Bottle" that is just begging for a vaporizer hose...

Edit: you may want to look into adding an ash catcher instead of a mini downstem. I don't know if you'll get much, if any, percolation through the downstem because the nature of stemless pieces is that the knuckle is usually evacuated of water upon the draw.

Yeah the only way my stoner idea would work is if the shorty DS fit about perfectly. For what it's worth, every perc on the shorty would be completely submerged at the beginning of the rip. Through the body of the rip, it would act as a half-ass screen and maybe some perc if it reaches the bottom of the knuckle. I'm hoping it would concentrate some reclaim mess to that removable part as well. I could also tape off the top perc slot I guess...

Modnote: Back to back posts merged.

 

[oli]

Thanks for the recommendation Deadshort. TBH I want all of em the more I weigh these little pieces against each other... for starters, the cheaper ones
Does anyone who owns one of these

mind measuring the inside length between the end piece GG lip and the first 90 degree knuckle? I'm trying to determine which size of this downstem adapter for some extra perc, and to help keep that first knuckle clean from combustion terds. The shorties are 1.7", 2.15", 3", and up from there.

The HC might not like the extra turbulence pre perc. Idk, just curious how big a DS I can cram in there.

Really LOOOOOOOve these two bad boys with my Solo!!!!!

For info:

 

[xRUFUSx]

Really LOOOOOOOve these two bad boys with my Solo!!!!!

For info:

Hot Damn!!! Thank you so much for taking the time!

$1,000,000 question: When you're down to you're last dab, which piece do you use?

edit: I didn't realize how many basic parts these have in common... but what a difference design makes. I need both of these. I could flip one on craigslist in a day with 10% markup if I change my mind lol

 

[oli]

Hot Damn!!! Thank you so much for taking the time!

$1,000,000 question: When you're down to you're last dab, which piece do you use?

You're welcome

Well I'm not the best one to answer that since I do not have that many pieces and also since I'm NEVER down on my last Dab (pleasures and percs of growing you own) but my answer would be the Dozo! So neat, so great, SOOOOOOOO cheap!

 

[lazylathe]

Looks like my iOffer glass should be here by the weekend!!
Perfect timing for more experimentation!!!


EDIT: When i was ordering from ioffer i wanted the D020 but was lead on for a few days...
I was told they were out of stock and it would take a few days to make mine, i was fine with that. Everytime they gave me a date it would be extended...
Eventually i asked for a refund or another style.
This is what they offered to send to me, not too bad for $35 shipping included!

Will be interesting to use the glass nail and see how long it lasts and how well it works!
I am very keen to try out my Nano with glass, it will be the first time it has seen glass!