Arizer Solo II

[DocH]

Totally unnecessary.


"
Priming a New Battery
Not all rechargeable batteries deliver the rated capacity when new, and they require formatting. While this applies to most battery systems, manufacturers of lithium-ion batteries disagree. They say that Li-ion is ready at birth and does not need priming. Although this may be true, users have reported some capacity gains by cycling after a long storage.
"

"Lithium-ion is a very clean system that does not need additional priming once it leaves the factory, nor does it require the level of maintenance that nickel-based batteries do. Additional formatting makes little difference because the maximum capacity is available right from the beginning, (the exception may be a small capacity gain after a long storage). A full discharge does not improve the capacity once the battery has faded — a low capacity signals the end of life. A discharge/charge may calibrate a “smart” battery but this does little to improve the chemical battery. (See BU-601: Inner Working of a Smart Battery.) Instructions recommending charging a new Li-ion for 8 hours are written off as “old school,” a left-over from the old nickel battery days."

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prime_batteries

Plus the matter on "overcharging" the Solo II, ie leaving the charger on beyond 100%...battery tech today is the same largely in phones, the solo II, etc. as the Solo II uses a Lithium Ion battery just like most(all?) modern phones on the market today:

https://www.yahoo.com/style/turns-apos-ve-charging-phones-061904594.html

"Battery University say anyway. And they ought to know, right?

They say that leaving your phone plugged in when it's fully charged – for example when you charge it overnight – is in fact bad for the battery in the long-run.

Once your phone reaches 100%, it receives "trickle charges" to maintain the battery, but these keep it in a high-stress state that wears down the battery over time. So the second it gets to 100%, you really should unplug it,"

Furthermore:

"Battery University adds that you shouldn't actually charge it fully every time either.

"Li-ion does not need to be fully charged as is the case with lead acid, nor is it desirable to do so. In fact, it is better not to fully charge because a high voltage stresses the battery.""

 

[OF]

"Li-ion does not need to be fully charged as is the case with lead acid, nor is it desirable to do so. In fact, it is better not to fully charge because a high voltage stresses the battery.""

Good points. I'd like to add a couple of refinements? The first time you charge (only) you should overcharge (four hours past 'full' should do it, I recommend leaving it charging 'overnight' that first time......hard as it is to watch your new vape sitting there, plugged in, calling to you.....

Definitely avoid leaving it on the charger 'all the time so it's ready to go when I need it". This (100% charge) alone will kill the battery over time with no real use, especially at higher temperatures. This is why you get Li-ions at about 2/3 charge (or at least you should.....I don't trust ones that come discharged (could be defective, leaky) or fully charged (professionals know better......).

Overcharging does two things for us. It sets the maximum capacity the cells will ever have, the first discharge ends this opportunity, you have to do it first. Secondly this is a battery (more than one cell), in our case two in series. Which puts a premium on the two cells being as closely matched as possible, otherwise the strong one's tendency to 'beat up' the weak one kills the pack all the sooner. Building packs you try to match them as closely as possible of course (or you should.....) but the point is they're in series so you can't charge one without charging the other. And the protection PCB will shut it down if you try to charge to strong one past 100% in an effort to breathe more life into the weak. It only gets worse over time, best I think to start from as good a position as possible?

At Battery University you can discover that stopping charging 10% early DOUBLES the cycle life of the battery. From say 300 to 600 cycles. Your battery pack lasts six years in stead of 3 if you charge twice a week? Who's against that? Drop it another 20% and it double again. 1200 cycles.......

Solo I gives an easy to spot clue when this happens. The last LED (7) lights when it's about 20% shy of full. So, while the charge LED is flashing still if you unplug it you get 'a free cycle, or 2, or 3' depending? Unfortunately I know of no such indication on Solo II.....yet. Eventually I'll open it again and explore power management and see if the Solo II high capacity pack will fit Solo Is. I think it can and it'd be a cool update there I think.

Some time back I designed and built a series of 'Gadgets' to shut down charging automatically. On version looks like this:

The cable plugs into Solo and the normal charger plugs into the Gadget upper left. When the button lower right (which pokes through the cover) is pressed the processor turns on the transistor top right and monitors the charging current. It 'remembers' the current peak and shuts down charging when it drops down to the level set by the blue adjustment above the switch. It then runs the beeper to wake you up. Another fun benefit is since the last 10% of charging is done at ever reducing currents. So that last ten percent takes twice as long as say going from 50% to 60%. So this represents 20% of the total time for a full recharge, not ten. For us with Solo II this means 20% of a 3 hour recharge, 36 minutes gets cut off every recharge time..... Yes, use the pack from 20% to 90% instead of 30% to 100% and you'll get the same number of sessions per charge, but your battery will last about twice as long and every recharge will be half an hour faster? What's wrong with that plan?

OF

 

[DocH]

Good points. I'd like to add a couple of refinements? The first time you charge (only) you should overcharge (four hours past 'full' should do it, I recommend leaving it charging 'overnight' that first time......hard as it is to watch your new vape sitting there, plugged in, calling to you.....

Definitely avoid leaving it on the charger 'all the time so it's ready to go when I need it". This (100% charge) alone will kill the battery over time with no real use, especially at higher temperatures. This is why you get Li-ions at about 2/3 charge (or at least you should.....I don't trust ones that come discharged (could be defective, leaky) or fully charged (professionals know better......).

Overcharging does two things for us. It sets the maximum capacity the cells will ever have, the first discharge ends this opportunity, you have to do it first. Secondly this is a battery (more than one cell), in our case two in series. Which puts a premium on the two cells being as closely matched as possible, otherwise the strong one's tendency to 'beat up' the weak one kills the pack all the sooner. Building packs you try to match them as closely as possible of course (or you should.....) but the point is they're in series so you can't charge one without charging the other. And the protection PCB will shut it down if you try to charge to strong one past 100% in an effort to breathe more life into the weak. It only gets worse over time, best I think to start from as good a position as possible?

At Battery University you can discover that stopping charging 10% early DOUBLES the cycle life of the battery. From say 300 to 600 cycles. Your battery pack lasts six years in stead of 3 if you charge twice a week? Who's against that? Drop it another 20% and it double again. 1200 cycles.......

Solo I gives an easy to spot clue when this happens. The last LED (7) lights when it's about 20% shy of full. So, while the charge LED is flashing still if you unplug it you get 'a free cycle, or 2, or 3' depending? Unfortunately I know of no such indication on Solo II.....yet. Eventually I'll open it again and explore power management and see if the Solo II high capacity pack will fit Solo Is. I think it can and it'd be a cool update there I think.

Some time back I designed and built a series of 'Gadgets' to shut down charging automatically. On version looks like this:

The cable plugs into Solo and the normal charger plugs into the Gadget upper left. When the button lower right (which pokes through the cover) is pressed the processor turns on the transistor top right and monitors the charging current. It 'remembers' the current peak and shuts down charging when it drops down to the level set by the blue adjustment above the switch. It then runs the beeper to wake you up. Another fun benefit is since the last 10% of charging is done at ever reducing currents. So that last ten percent takes twice as long as say going from 50% to 60%. So this represents 20% of the total time for a full recharge, not ten. For us with Solo II this means 20% of a 3 hour recharge, 36 minutes gets cut off every recharge time..... Yes, use the pack from 20% to 90% instead of 30% to 100% and you'll get the same number of sessions per charge, but your battery will last about twice as long and every recharge will be half an hour faster? What's wrong with that plan?

OF

Interesting info OF, thanks for posting. I did see that at battery U about the 90% charge max being ideal/the battery life gained. Big difference for sure. Took me a while to discover that but better late than never. Figure for the Solo II not going beyond that last charge bar or a bit below that would be ideal during each charging beyond the 1st charge you mentioned.

That's a neat little device you created. Seems that kind of concept would be nice to build into any device that has a lith-ion battery, including the Solo of course, and stop charging at the 90% mark of capacity. Not good for the battery biz though of course! To make it more palatable, 90% on the Solo can become "100%" on the visual charge indicator and all will be well.

 

[Quetzalcoatl]

Interesting info OF, thanks for posting. I did see that at battery U about the 90% charge max being ideal/the battery life gained. Big difference for sure. Took me a while to discover that but better late than never. Figure for the Solo II not going beyond that last charge bar or a bit below that would be ideal during each charging beyond the 1st charge you mentioned.

That's a neat little device you created. Seems that kind of concept would be nice to build into any device that has a lith-ion battery, including the Solo of course, and stop charging at the 90% mark of capacity. Not good for the battery biz though of course! To make it more palatable, 90% on the Solo can become "100%" on the visual charge indicator and all will be well.

It really is a neat little invention of his. I was lucky enough to be considered for one, and it's worked perfectly for me. In fact, I'm going to have to use it again soon, I think my Solo was on its last session or two the other day...

 

[DocH]

It really is a neat little invention of his. I was lucky enough to be considered for one, and it's worked perfectly for me. In fact, I'm going to have to use it again soon, I think my Solo was on its last session or two the other day...

Your Solo II will be very happy! As you with having an auto/slick solution.

I'll continue to do it via a less glamorous/the "analog" way and keep a close eye on the battery charge meter on the Solo and unplug it before reaching 100%/estimate 90% charge or so.

 

[OF]

Figure for the Solo II not going beyond that last charge bar or a bit below that would be ideal during each charging beyond the 1st charge you mentioned.

That's a neat little device you created. Seems that kind of concept would be nice to build into any device that has a lith-ion battery, including the Solo of course, and stop charging at the 90% mark of capacity.

I agree with you from what I've seen so far. My 'Gadget' should be stopping about 15% short right now (can't be sure unless I open it up and check levels and such). It stops with all five bars 'lit' but the first session drops that top bar. So, by session count, that seems 'about right'. The proof will be in monitoring a few charging cycles?

Thanks, it was kinda fun, really. Some pretty ugly prototypes early on.......

However, from a practical POV this probably isn't something that can be 'programmed in', rather it's set by charge controller ICs in a standalone type circuit. The software lights the LEDs but a hardware chip determines the setpoint......and the makers of those ICs are no fools, they know makers will want maximum battery life so shoot for as high as possible....and a bit more. Typical numbers are 4.20 plus or minus .05 Volts (you can't make money making perfect parts, there has to be a 'window'.). The only exception I could find is a few obscure Military parts. They (the Military) aren't stupid either, they've figured this out and specified lower cutoffs (3.95 plus or minus .05 sticks in my mind, valuses I considered early on before I realized I couldn't sense it 'from outside'. The only source I could find that would sell me parts had a unrealistic minimum order and a crazy price (how we get to $10,000 hammers I guess?)......and it was a surface mount part (like used in Solo and cell phones to be tiny), not the sort of thing that lends itself to experimenting.

And besides, as you say, the Suits are after replacement battery sales and claims of amazing battery life......for a while.

OF

 

[DocH]

I agree with you from what I've seen so far. My 'Gadget' should be stopping about 15% short right now (can't be sure unless I open it up and check levels and such). It stops with all five bars 'lit' but the first session drops that top bar. So, by session count, that seems 'about right'. The proof will be in monitoring a few charging cycles?

Thanks, it was kinda fun, really. Some pretty ugly prototypes early on.......

However, from a practical POV this probably isn't something that can be 'programmed in', rather it's set by charge controller ICs in a standalone type circuit. The software lights the LEDs but a hardware chip determines the setpoint......and the makers of those ICs are no fools, they know makers will want maximum battery life so shoot for as high as possible....and a bit more. Typical numbers are 4.20 plus or minus .05 Volts (you can't make money making perfect parts, there has to be a 'window'.). The only exception I could find is a few obscure Military parts. They (the Military) aren't stupid either, they've figured this out and specified lower cutoffs (3.95 plus or minus .05 sticks in my mind, valuses I considered early on before I realized I couldn't sense it 'from outside'. The only source I could find that would sell me parts had a unrealistic minimum order and a crazy price (how we get to $10,000 hammers I guess?)......and it was a surface mount part (like used in Solo and cell phones to be tiny), not the sort of thing that lends itself to experimenting.

And besides, as you say, the Suits are after replacement battery sales and claims of amazing battery life......for a while.

OF

Good point maximizing battery life. The marketing aspect of selling a product like the Solo with a 2.5 hours of battery life vs one with 10% less of that is important in the competition game.

Somewhat OT....with your interest in creating this charging device for the Solo, I'd be willing to bet you hold an Amateur Radio license? Lots of hams I knew were into creating and building devices like you do. I used to tinker a bit in building electronic devices when I was younger, modifications, etc. And loved to just put pre-designed things together with the old heathkits and such but largely put down the soldering iron and took the career path of computer software and beyond to design "circuits"/systems with code.

 

[steamfunk]

Would like to add another tangentially related battery observation that I haven't seen mentioned here. Just something I noticed, not necessarily bad or anything. Just part of the design for better or worse.

When the battery is getting low, the Solo2 takes a bit longer to heat up to the set temperature. Perhaps OF can better explain the implications of this. It seems to me that to achieve the super fast and impressive heat up time, the unit pulls a lot of current as quickly as it can. When the battery is almost empty--- I'm talking about when there's maybe 2-3 sessions worth of charge remaining, before it's completely dead--- it is not able to draw as much power, and thus is unable to heat as fast as when the battery is fully juiced. So it ends up functioning less like a cell phone or a laptop, where the device works the same right up till the moment it shuts off, but rather more like a halogen flashlight, where the bulb begins to get dimmer as the battery approaches full discharge.

Combine this with another observation: the temperature display on the screen is a bit of a liar. I noticed this on day 1, that once the unit reaches the set point, the reading on the display stays there no matter how hard or frequently you draw on it. However, if you draw on a stem while it's still in the heat up phase, you can actually see the temperature displayed on the screen drop and then recover.

I have no doubt whatsoever that drawing air through a heated unit does indeed cause the oven temperature to drop, but there is no indication of this on the display. It is as if once the desired temperature is achieved, the display switches from showing an actual factual thermometer reading to instead simply showing a static temp regardless of the actual oven temp. I understand why this is perfectly; it's more impressive-looking to the average user who doesn't discuss these things on nerdy forums. Those of us who know better have of course observed that waiting ~30 sec between hits yields better clouds. Would have been nice for an accurate temp reading to show exactly when the oven has recovered and ready for the next draw.

I would infer from these two points that the actual recovery speed between hits is shorter or longer depending on the charge level of the battery, though I have difficulty coming up with a way to verify that hypothesis. It is probably a negligible difference to the point of invisibility in most cases, unless the battery is nearly drained. In that near-depleted state, however, I've subjectively experienced decreased satisfaction from a session, possibly because I'm not giving it enough time to reheat to the set point between draws.

Moral of the story: when there's no bars left on your battery indicator, but it's still not quite dead, the unit will nonetheless heat up if asked to do so. However, it may not maintain the desired temperature as steadily, even if the display suggests otherwise. Better to of course charge it back up before it reaches that state. Better still if Arizer would have just coded a lower charge limit to disallow the device to function at all past a certain threshold, rather than have users experiencing decreased performance during a near-depleted session.

Shorter moral: don't be lazy, and just charge your Solo2 before it gets lower than around 25%.

 

[AJS]

Haven't been around here a ton recently. Solo 2 still working like the day I got her. Here .. enjoy a new milk video.
https://instagram.com/p/BWgXqcFA0ah/

 

[JCharles]

@steamfunk

I'm with you in that waiting a bit longer between draws improves vapor production 100%.

However, I would suggest that the oven temp is correct within a percent or two (an insignificant amount). I know if I insert a cold stem during warm up, the temp drops. I also notice when I put the solo on a water pipe with cold water in it, the temp on my Solo takes a big dip. Moving from indoors to a cool evening during warm up also seems to flutter the temperature reading a bit.


An alternate hypothesis, the glass stem you draw from that needs to be heat soaked before your first draw probably cools a bit as the cool air passes through it and that the stem simply needs to reach temperature again.

Your herb is in contact with the stem and not the oven. As such the temperature of the stem would have (I think) more to do with the temperature of the air passing through the herb.

Or I could be out in left field?!?

 

[OF]

Somewhat OT....with your interest in creating this charging device for the Solo, I'd be willing to bet you hold an Amateur Radio license? Lots of hams I knew were into creating and building devices like you do.

Good guess, but not for a very long time. Back then you had to pass Morse Code. Now Hams (Amateur Radio Operators for those not 'in the know') no longer build anything. The last guy I knew that actually built a transmitter (other than me....) died 10 or more years back. Cell phones, repeaters, packet radio and such took over from key pounders trying to get that QSL (contact confirmation) from a far away place better reached by phone. Now guys buy complete rigs they can't work on.

Even the modern Merchant Ships I worked on, which in the old days carried a Radio Operator (universally known as 'sparks' or 'the sparks'). He'd monitor the 'shore station' several times a day (they broadcast a call list alphabetically by call sign) of traffic they're holding. He'd then fire up the 2kW or so transmitter contact the shore station say 'Port Siad, covering the Med, Persian gulf and the West end of the Indian Ocean for his messages. The roll call came every two hours. Now there's a Satellite linked terminal on the bridge 'any officer can run' and there's one more cabin on board and one less mouth to feed. That goes with unmanned engine rooms so you don't need 3 Engineers to man it in shifts, the Chief Engineer sits in his cabin and waits for an alarm. He and the one (not 3) 'Wiper' have to handle it all. No more at sea repairs/service, they save it for shore parties where the cheapest labor is. In the day on of your 3 auxiliaries (diesel generators to make electricity) was always being rebuilt, one on line, one in standby and for maneuvering (you always put two on line when there are other boats and stuff to hit, just in case). Sadly, Generalists skilled guys are getting very rare, we're in a world of disposable stuff and experts only?

I agree with you 10% reduction to save the battery makes great sense from one perspective, but not to the suits?

When the battery is getting low, the Solo2 takes a bit longer to heat up to the set temperature. Perhaps OF can better explain the implications of this. It seems to me that to achieve the super fast and impressive heat up time, the unit pulls a lot of current as quickly as it can. When the battery is almost empty--- I'm talking about when there's maybe 2-3 sessions worth of charge remaining, before it's completely dead--- it is not able to draw as much power, and thus is unable to heat as fast as when the battery is fully juiced.

Excellent observation. I really want to get in and measure it. Solo I does the same thing, BTW, it just doesn't stand out as much?

Using Solo I numbers (Solo II should be about the same I think???), a fresh pack is 8.4 Volts (4.2 Volts each) and supplies about 2.5 Amps to the load. 21 Watts. The resistance is then 8.4/2.5 or 3.4 Ohms or so. When the battery is discharged it's closer to 6.4 Volts (3.2 per cell). So now the current is 6.4/3.4, 1.9 Amps. This current times 6.4 Volts means now only 12 and a bit Watts. Not a huge drop in voltage, but it can bring a drop in current meaning real power (the product of Volts times Amps) is much lower, now about 60% of what it was, 40% less power being delivered.....it's going to take longer.

A way around this is the technique the big power e-cig guys use to get their 'instant lightning' performance with juice. They draw whatever power they need to make a separate fixed output supply to deliver the maximum allowed power no matter the battery condition. More expense, less reliability I think rules this out.

As you suggest, ironically if you're in a hurry, take the time out to recharge.......

Great observation, part of learning to live with our new found friend, Solo II.

Best weekend regards to all.

OF

 

[DocH]

Good guess, but not for a very long time. Back then you had to pass Morse Code. Now Hams (Amateur Radio Operators for those not 'in the know') no longer build anything. The last guy I knew that actually built a transmitter (other than me....) died 10 or more years back. Cell phones, repeaters, packet radio and such took over from key pounders trying to get that QSL (contact confirmation) from a far away place better reached by phone. Now guys buy complete rigs they can't work on.

Even the modern Merchant Ships I worked on, which in the old days carried a Radio Operator (universally known as 'sparks' or 'the sparks'). He'd monitor the 'shore station' several times a day (they broadcast a call list alphabetically by call sign) of traffic they're holding. He'd then fire up the 2kW or so transmitter contact the shore station say 'Port Siad, covering the Med, Persian gulf and the West end of the Indian Ocean for his messages. The roll call came every two hours. Now there's a Satellite linked terminal on the bridge 'any officer can run' and there's one more cabin on board and one less mouth to feed. That goes with unmanned engine rooms so you don't need 3 Engineers to man it in shifts, the Chief Engineer sits in his cabin and waits for an alarm. He and the one (not 3) 'Wiper' have to handle it all. No more at sea repairs/service, they save it for shore parties where the cheapest labor is. In the day on of your 3 auxiliaries (diesel generators to make electricity) was always being rebuilt, one on line, one in standby and for maneuvering (you always put two on line when there are other boats and stuff to hit, just in case). Sadly, Generalists skilled guys are getting very rare, we're in a world of disposable stuff and experts only?

I agree with you 10% reduction to save the battery makes great sense from one perspective, but not to the suits?



Excellent observation. I really want to get in and measure it. Solo I does the same thing, BTW, it just doesn't stand out as much?

Using Solo I numbers (Solo II should be about the same I think???), a fresh pack is 8.4 Volts (4.2 Volts each) and supplies about 2.5 Amps to the load. 21 Watts. The resistance is then 8.4/2.5 or 3.4 Ohms or so. When the battery is discharged it's closer to 6.4 Volts (3.2 per cell). So now the current is 6.4/3.4, 1.9 Amps. This current times 6.4 Volts means now only 12 and a bit Watts. Not a huge drop in voltage, but it can bring a drop in current meaning real power (the product of Volts times Amps) is much lower, now about 60% of what it was, 40% less power being delivered.....it's going to take longer.

A way around this is the technique the big power e-cig guys use to get their 'instant lightning' performance with juice. They draw whatever power they need to make a separate fixed output supply to deliver the maximum allowed power no matter the battery condition. More expense, less reliability I think rules this out.

As you suggest, ironically if you're in a hurry, take the time out to recharge.......

Great observation, part of learning to live with our new found friend, Solo II.

Best weekend regards to all.

OF

Wow, things have changed alot then in the Amateur Radio World. I left it when computers were getting into sending/receiving AMTOR, RTTY, sending/receiving morse code at crazy fast speeds, etc. At one point I could copy 20-25 wpm morse code in my head but that's as far as I got.

Thanks for the update/information and have a good weekend yourself and keep up creating those DIY useful electronic devices.

To 90% charged Solo II's!

 

[OF]

At one point I could copy 20-25 wpm morse code in my head but that's as far as I got.

To 90% charged Solo II's!

Wow, I was lucky to make half that, on a good day....... Funny, the roll calls at sea are in Morse (of course), at about 25 WPM, and all these years later I could still 'read them' well enough to know if we had mail. A good RO does that automatically, of course. Like cops on patrol, he (never met a female one??) could be carrying on a conversation with you with the SSB running at low volume. As they run down the alphabet the RO would stop the conversation for 15 seconds or so to listen to the key part, and they go right back to gossip. Most cool, but like a lot of skills, no longer in need.

A fun aspect of the Gadget is while the first ones shutdown at a preset current level, later ones memorize the peak current and make up their own cutoff. This means Solo I and II use the same Gadget and all my Solo Is work the same (they have slightly different 'normal charging currents'). More over, using a 12VDC to USB converter to lower it to five Volts means you can give the same treatment to Air or a whole host of other vapes that take USB charging. I've found a couple that manage to fool it because it seems they shut down charging for an instant to check charge. If the Gadget test the level at the wrong time....... Only a couple of them I think I can modify the program to retest a couple times to see if it returns? Fun play for another day.

OF

 

[DocH]

Wow, I was lucky to make half that, on a good day....... Funny, the roll calls at sea are in Morse (of course), at about 25 WPM, and all these years later I could still 'read them' well enough to know if we had mail. A good RO does that automatically, of course. Like cops on patrol, he (never met a female one??) could be carrying on a conversation with you with the SSB running at low volume. As they run down the alphabet the RO would stop the conversation for 15 seconds or so to listen to the key part, and they go right back to gossip. Most cool, but like a lot of skills, no longer in need.

A fun aspect of the Gadget is while the first ones shutdown at a preset current level, later ones memorize the peak current and make up their own cutoff. This means Solo I and II use the same Gadget and all my Solo Is work the same (they have slightly different 'normal charging currents'). More over, using a 12VDC to USB converter to lower it to five Volts means you can give the same treatment to Air or a whole host of other vapes that take USB charging. I've found a couple that manage to fool it because it seems they shut down charging for an instant to check charge. If the Gadget test the level at the wrong time....... Only a couple of them I think I can modify the program to retest a couple times to see if it returns? Fun play for another day.

OF

Yes, use it or lose it on reading code for sure. I'd fail bad at any speed above probably 7 WPM on code now for sure. But yes, some of those guys are really good at it....I remember I would send some crazy speed Morse at 40-50 WPM with a computer and there were some old timers who would tell me they could read it, and send it, at that speed with no reader/computer. And like you say probably some could probably be conversing on SSB off/on and still get the heart of the conversation in code at that speed. Some used an electronic 2-paddle to send but some of those guys would go crazy fast with just an analog key. Very impressive talent.

That peak current memory option is a slick feature for sure on your device. Nice it carries over to gen 1 & 2 Solo. If only I could do such a thing in my analog brain and know the exact minute when to unplug the charger on the Solo II/when it's ready across the room. I think I need a chip implant in my arm to make that a reality.

 

[tonuzzi]

Haven't been around here a ton recently. Solo 2 still working like the day I got her. Here .. enjoy a new milk video.
https://instagram.com/p/BWgXqcFA0ah/

Same here bro, my solo 2 is really kicking it. With the solo 2 and my omnivape, my VAS has finally ended!! (For now at least lol)

 

[OF]

That peak current memory option is a slick feature for sure on your device. Nice it carries over to gen 1 & 2 Solo. If only I could do such a thing in my analog brain and know the exact minute when to unplug the charger on the Solo II/when it's ready across the room. I think I need a chip implant in my arm to make that a reality.

The 'remember the peak' approach came later, when I realized 'not all Solos charge the same'. I'm an analog type at heart as well. Learning to program the processor (Arduino), which compiles in a modified version of C was easy enough. It's designed for students, has a nice free program editor, lots of tutorials and support from You Tube and a great user community. It was relatively painless.

But the first couple were straight analog. Simple comparators (358s IIRC), should be right up your alley? They worked 'well enough' for the one vape owner. PM me if you want to play around with it.

You can use the second section of the 358 as a latch to control the charging function or cobble it up from NPNs. I forget exactly how I did that part, but there are lots of ways to skin that cat. Anyway, let me know if you want to give it a lash

OF

 

[AJS]

Hello all. I discovered that the gravity tube for my Sawyer water filter that I used to go hiking and camping with fits directly into one of the Solo 2 stems. Anyone think it is safe to use? I don't know the material safety rating when it comes to heat, but the tubing is very tough and durable. What do you guys think? I'm kinda in the mood to whip it, whip it real good.
If this won't work ... think something from Home Depot will?

 

[steamfunk]

Hello all. I discovered that the gravity tube for my Sawyer water filter that I used to go hiking and camping with fits directly into one of the Solo 2 stems. Anyone think it is safe to use? I don't know the material safety rating when it comes to heat, but the tubing is very tough and durable. What do you guys think? I'm kinda in the mood to whip it, whip it real good.
If this won't work ... think something from Home Depot will?

Hard to tell what that's made of, but I doubt you'll have heat issues if you're attaching it to the mouth end of your glass stem. By the time the vapor reaches that point, it's still warm of course, but not even hot enough to burn your mouth. Same goes for the glass itself... you wouldn't be able to grab it easily with bare fingers down near the oven, but up at the mouth piece you can always touch it without burning yourself. So I don't think heat is a real issue to worry about if that's where you're attaching the tube.

To be extra certain, though, if you were so inclined, I'd recommend getting some medical grade silicone tubing. You can be sure that will withstand the heat and won't pass on any contaminants.

 

[OF]

Hello all. I discovered that the gravity tube for my Sawyer water filter that I used to go hiking and camping with fits directly into one of the Solo 2 stems. Anyone think it is safe to use? I don't know the material safety rating when it comes to heat, but the tubing is very tough and durable. What do you guys think? I'm kinda in the mood to whip it, whip it real good.
If this won't work ... think something from Home Depot will?

I'd avoid it. The very chemicals they add to normal plastics to get those "very tough and durable" character wanted in an application like that. Since there's zero chance it will ever experience water over about 180F (hot domestic water) they can (and no doubt do) compromise on that. It is basically guaranteed to not be suitable at 400F, to do that you need to go to Silicone tube which is definitely not 'very tough and durable'. In that case 'tough and durable' are traded off to get the high temperature rating needed.

I'd definitely pass on 'the unknown tube' and get something suitable to the duty.

You can get 10 lengths of high temperature tube from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWU38/ref=psdc_16414401_t1_B00EB3HDSY

This should fit well over the outside of the stem (although I've never tried that brand, the similar tube I bought from M/C does fine). Not inside like you suggest? If you're willing to use smaller bore tube (dodging the dreaded draw resistance......) you can get a smaller size (like half inch OD?), save some money and still be safe.

Besides this tube is super flexible, it won't be fighting you all the time. Ten feet should make several whips, you can have a few spares.......even give a few to friends?

OF

 

[AJS]

I'd avoid it. The very chemicals they add to normal plastics to get those "very tough and durable" character wanted in an application like that. Since there's zero chance it will ever experience water over about 180F (hot domestic water) they can (and no doubt do) compromise on that. It is basically guaranteed to not be suitable at 400F, to do that you need to go to Silicone tube which is definitely not 'very tough and durable'. In that case 'tough and durable' are traded off to get the high temperature rating needed.

I'd definitely pass on 'the unknown tube' and get something suitable to the duty.

You can get 10 lengths of high temperature tube from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWU38/ref=psdc_16414401_t1_B00EB3HDSY

This should fit well over the outside of the stem (although I've never tried that brand, the similar tube I bought from M/C does fine). Not inside like you suggest? If you're willing to use smaller bore tube (dodging the dreaded draw resistance......) you can get a smaller size (like half inch OD?), save some money and still be safe.

Besides this tube is super flexible, it won't be fighting you all the time. Ten feet should make several whips, you can have a few spares.......even give a few to friends?

OF

Thanks for the response man, I'll pass on it then.
Feeling impatient ... might see if I can find some tubing locally! Although don't really think Home Depot will have what I'm looking for after a quick online search ... idk though.

...is vinyl tubing off limits?

 

[OF]

Although don't really think Home Depot will have what I'm looking for after a quick online search ... idk though.

...is vinyl tubing off limits?

It's not a standard sort of tubing for sure. Vinyl is also a bad call, it won't take hot tap water and more importantly is filled with chemicals you don't want to be vaping to keep the plastic soft and long lived. The 'boil off' with over temperature. Some grades would do better than others 'on the margin' but as retail customers we really can't tell which ones.....and even the best of them are way short of a 'worst case' situation?

There are some hydraulic hose up to the job, but they tend to be expensive and mighty stiff (not a good feature on a whip). Most big cities have several 'hydraulic shops' to service trucking, construction, repair and so on efforts. My local one welcomes 'walk in' customers and usually give the discounted price to me (like some auto parts stores do).

But IMO nothing beets 2 or 3 feet of thin walled Silicone tube for a whip. 'Loose as a noodle', doesn't fight you and try to tip over your vape and stuff.

Your call of course, but as I see it if you order it today you'll probably have it in hand before the next time your Solo needs charging? Easy call for me, somewhere I've got what's left of 10 pieces of 3 different 'nesting' sizes of Si tube.

Good weekend to all,

OF

 

[steamfunk]

Thanks for the response man, I'll pass on it then.
Feeling impatient ... might see if I can find some tubing locally! Although don't really think Home Depot will have what I'm looking for after a quick online search ... idk though.

...is vinyl tubing off limits?

A medical supply store may have what you need, if there's one in your area.

 

[T-dot Toker]

I'm sure someone has gone over this before, but can anyone give me a short list of the improvements that the solo 2 brings over the original.

Ive had my Solo for 7 years now and it's still chugging, and though I'm more interested out of curiosity than genuine interest (for buying) I'm still a big Arizer fan

 

[pxl_jockey]

Really been enjoying getting to know my Solo 2 since getting home, mainly using the OEM stems & a micro-bubbler stem like @CarolKing posted a pic of a few pages back. Got 2 of them off eBay for £13, they were waiting upon our return. My postie left me a note saying the package was in the smoker of my barbecue, oh the irony! Anxiously awaiting my PV turbo glass that I mailed to myself, should arrive next week.

Back to Solo 2: I really love the flavour of the dry stems, but I've had a few coughing spells that have kicked my ass! Not sure if I was pulling too hard/long or if it's just that it will take some time for my lungs to get over decades of combustion? But I do love tasting more of my flower than ever before.

At first I had way too much water in the bubbler stem. Eventually I found that only a tiny amount of water provided some cooling while allowing the tastes to come through for me. I'll continue to play with these stems, I don't think I have found the sweet spot yet.

I've been very happy with my efforts so far, wasn't expecting so much to begin with; everyone says "Give it 2 weeks with no combustion" so last night I was surprised by how medicated I felt, and how clean it felt. Of course, I'm going through a bit more flowers but I expected to in these early days of experimentation. This morning I felt some jet lag but no "ganga hangover", very interesting that I noticed its absence. I guess I had become accustomed to that morning fog but I can surely do without it!

What has struck me repeatedly over the last 24+ hours is how much I have taken from this forum. When I sat down to finally use the Solo 2 for the first time, I was right at home thanks to everyone here who shares their experience and unique insight. From loading to the "pinky pat" to draw techniques, I started so ahead of the game because of FC & this thread in particular. Less of a beginner? If that makes sense? I'm surely not the first, I wonder how many folks have had a better first experience because of the good people here...

 

[JCharles]

@T-dot Toker

200+ sessions in and the Solo II is more than an upgraded Solo. It's a new experience but a familiar one as well.

Stems have a snug fit that allows some gentle manipulation. Not loose - seriously go back to an OG Solo and you'll immediately notice the difference in fit.

Stems also have smaller, cleaner filter holes. This pulls less material into the stem and genuinely looks better. Besides that, it's basically the same stem as the OG.

The Solo II construction is much easier on the hand (shape and finish). And fits a water pipe much better. Fingerprints seen to wipe away, not that I've noticed many. It's weight is comfortable and well balanced. It looks awesome.

I'm not a huge fan of the new charge port location. I don't want to charge my Solo standing up - it's perfect for a dog tail to knock over. I've mentioned a battery percentage indicator as a something I would have liked.

The chamber stays uber clean with a chipmunk draw or two to start a session. Any debris easily falls away with a nudge from your favourite vape tool.

The display and temperature control are awesome. I have no trouble using my Solo II in the summer sun in Toronto, And if I can't its easy to change the brightness. Customize your session length and change the start delay from 4 to 8 seconds for travel in seconds.

The heat up time is on par with the best vaporizers available. And when your Solo II reaches temp and is ready to draw the vapour production is noticeably thicker than an OG.

As with the OG, the II requires some draw technique. Mainly, give it twenty to thirty seconds between draws for best vapor. And let it heat soak before the first draw. Neither of those tips are necessary if vapor is not a goal - you can draw at will or use a cold stem and still extract the thc from your flower.

If I pack a tight fat bowl the draw resistance is noticeable but easily overcome. These sre some of my favourite packs for a water pipe.
If I pack a standard pinky tap, 1/8th from the rim draw resistance is barely there - think a straw and soda, probably less.
And a light pack small bowl has negligible resistance - like taking a breath.

The battery is everlasting. Seriously, 12-15 sessions per charge leaving juice in the tank and stopping shy of full charge. Around 2 hours and 10 minutes to charge (+-5minutes) to meet those targets. The battery will be replaceable for a small fee.


I would sell my OG but I like to collect vapes and have all ready retired her. They fixed the problems and shortcomings of the original.There is nothing than OG does (except nostalgia) that isnt improved with a Solo II. Everyone should have one or two.


Price being the only road block, an OG is great. But if you can save your pennies and get a Solo II you won't regret it.