Arizer Solo II
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- arizer error 7 fix solo ii
CarolKing
Singer of songs and a vapor connoisseur
@Stormsend The Solo 2 and the Solo OG are more of a session vape. There's 3 categories (on demand, session, butane) in portables. Some are on demand and butane.
The Milaana is an On Demand unit. The VapCap is an On Demand portable as well. You turn your unit on when you want to take a draw. The Grasshopper is on for just a little while, enough for a couple draws.
Edit
Usually an On Demand unit will heat up very quickly. The Elevape is another vape that is a one hitter. It heats up very quickly. It's been out for a while.
I don't want to derail. Read up.
The Milaana is an On Demand unit. The VapCap is an On Demand portable as well. You turn your unit on when you want to take a draw. The Grasshopper is on for just a little while, enough for a couple draws.
Edit
Usually an On Demand unit will heat up very quickly. The Elevape is another vape that is a one hitter. It heats up very quickly. It's been out for a while.
I don't want to derail. Read up.
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Ahh on demand doesn't have anything to do with material coming in contact with oven, it's more so how quickly the oven heats up? Like the firefly 2
JCharles
FC 06/06/2017 | ACMPR 26/07/2017
In that a perfectly cleaned stem builds up a little milk as it heat soaks in the Solo II?
There will always be some air flow through the stem with the unit on, even when not drawing on it. This is normal and to be expected.
I generally take my first draw after I've noticed some milk.
If I think about it, ill try a grab a picture to post.
Got it.
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DocH
Member
Just curious for those with a Solo II.....how many pulls/draws are you getting from a stock chamber full of material on an OEM stem before you discard the material? I know there's some variables here, ie temp, how long one draws, type of material/how dry/moist it is to start, etc. but would be curious to see what others are experiencing.
For me, filling the chamber about 80%, just fairly lightly packing it in/no grinding with fairly long draws, at 375F, about 12 draws is easy to obtain with effects still felt. Perhaps I can go longer but at that point the material usually looks dry and tan. For a shorter session, I've also had good experience just filling the chamber 40-50% and get about 6-8 pulls out of such an amount.
For me, filling the chamber about 80%, just fairly lightly packing it in/no grinding with fairly long draws, at 375F, about 12 draws is easy to obtain with effects still felt. Perhaps I can go longer but at that point the material usually looks dry and tan. For a shorter session, I've also had good experience just filling the chamber 40-50% and get about 6-8 pulls out of such an amount.
WildChild
Seeking My Shangri-La
If I'm understanding you correctly, your stems still look 'milky' or 'cloudy' after an ISO rinse? In other words, not completely clean? My guess is that you are not leaving them in long enough and/or your ISO is too weak.
I leave my stems in 99% ISO for at least two hours (usually overnight) before running them under hot water. They come out looking like new; totally clear and free of debris.
Does this help?
EDIT: Re-reading your post leads me to believe that I may have misunderstood what you were asking.
JCharles
FC 06/06/2017 | ACMPR 26/07/2017
I almost always run it for the entire session - and draw every 25-45s. I'd say I average 12-20 with a couple temp increases during the session.
For me it's more about the vapor production - when it's noticeably light I'll toss the bowl in my avb jar. If the session times out I'll also just toss the avb in its jar.
I like to make canna-coconut oil from my avb, s I don't get to hung up on how spent/fresh a bowl is.
I do like a half pack stem for a quick lift but I need to keep the temp lower or flavour disappears quickly.
Pappy
shmaporist
The inner diameter of my stems turn milky after one draw and stay milky until cleaning. Never seen on Arizer stem before. My guess is impure, improperly cured, or porous Boro. I can't be the only one who got these?
JCharles
FC 06/06/2017 | ACMPR 26/07/2017
Take a photo?
Pappy
shmaporist
Little Bill
Oldest stoner on FC
I pack the bowl with .1 gram which is just over 1/2 full. I take 10-12 draws at 165c then 6-8 at 175c and sometimes another 2-4 at 185c. Usually 20+ draws over 15- 20 minutes. That is sipping and enjoying the flavor. I can finish a bowl quicker but I like to relax with the Solo 2. I don't like to vape at higher temps.
I am wondering if the ABV can be used in smoothies. Anyone know of discussions on FC about that?
JCharles
FC 06/06/2017 | ACMPR 26/07/2017
Maybe my top shelf flowers? Nah!
Strange. If that's cold glass very strange.
Back in the day I had a pipe or two that would milk over like that and change colour through use.
I've used several of the new stems. 90mm, 110mm and my 115mm and none of them look like that cold.
@Little Bill I have tossed some avb in a smoothie. It works well enough to mask the flavour.
Water cure and coconut or another oil is my favourite. A couple teaspoons of some canna-coconut oil in a smoothie tastes much better than avb.
WildChild
Seeking My Shangri-La
Ah, OK...I understand. Yes, mine do get that way as well. Maybe not quite as milky as in your picture, but a bit clouded up for sure.
I use potent flowers too.
I'm really loving my Solo 2 maxed out at 220C. I put a dome screen in my stem so I can use smaller amounts. My ABV is coming out nice and dark brown. Pretty impressed.
Pappy
shmaporist
Post a pic please.
WildChild
Seeking My Shangri-La
I forgot to mention that I am using the original Solo bent stem. But the same result happens with my Solo 2 stems. Not nearly as 'milky' as yours, though.
That is after one session using a thoroughly cleaned stem. At least I thought it was thoroughly cleaned!
EDIT: I wasn't sure how to properly post the picture! Thanks, Mod. ...and I'm not a very good photographer either.
Modnote: Edited to display image
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OF
Well-Known Member
The usual cause of this 'clouding' is not being real clean to start with. It happens in other vapes. I think we're looking at an 'oil and water don't mix' issue here. If the glass has a thin coat of condensate left (only takes a couple molecules deep....) this makes the surface 'water hating', like say wax paper. Condensing water 'beads up' rather than spreading out and gets trapped inside future condensate as it forms. A bit on Mayonnaise if you will? The water can't escape the jacket of oil.
If, OTOH, the water (first to condense out at lower temperatures) gets solid contact with the glass and the oil deposited on top not only is it 'less visual' but the water can escape eventually by migration along the surface.
I'm not sucking around for 'my glass was squeaky clean when I finished', I'm sure thought so or you would have kept on? I'm just offering a suggestion of what I think is going on.
I used to find this more often before I switched to PBW. ISO is a solvent, it becomes contaminated as it 'picks up' (dissolves) the contamination. It is, by definition, contaminated to some degree and if allowed to 'dry off' (or otherwise stay) it will simply lay down a thin layer of contamination on the surface, much like paint? YOU NEED LOTS OF RINSING WITH FRESH SOLVENT to make this work well. You have to dilute the residual down and down until it becomes acceptable (you probably can't make it truly clean as a practical matter?). Compromise, always compromises........
A detergent, like PBW, is a different animal. It can break the surface tension between the condensate and the glass, 'get under it' as it were. Just like it does particles of dirt in your clothes in the laundry or dishes in the wash. Stuff doesn't dissolve, it 'floats away'. The 'travel tube' I use to wash my straight stems in is coated nasty thick in spots on the inside wall since the oil 'whets' the plastic better (sticks) there than the glass of the stem. That's how it works, it separates the two by moving the condensate somewhere else. It won't wipe off the walls, or wash off with more PBW, for that reason so it takes an ISO soaked paper towel to 'get most of it' like I did a week or so back for the second time.
Anyway, as a guess from this side of the monitor, the problem is with a very thin coating left behind, seems 'clean as new' but isn't. Try washing your 'clean' stems in say dishwasher detergent? In any event I don't think it's dangerous, a sign or anything past cosmetics to worry about?
For the easy part:
How to post pictures
Regards to all,
OF
WildChild
Seeking My Shangri-La
That makes a lot of sense. I'm not using new ISO each time so no doubt it leaves a thin film. Even after rinsing the stem in hot water. I'll look into the PBW but am not too concerned, to be honest.
Thank you very much for the picture posting link. Guess I could have searched a bit longer.
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OF
Well-Known Member
I'm with you, no cause for concern 'round here. But PBW has other advantages. It's MUCH cheaper. A pound lasts years of 'constant' usage as you need so little. It's safer many ways. "Green" enough to flush down the drain (unlike ISO, right?) and it won't burn your place down. Easier to use as well, I think, since you really should wash the piece to be sure all the ISO is gone......at least I did.
You're welcome for the link. I'm not going to defend the search function around here, I don't think anyone still sane will, but it is what we have to work with. And now you know, and know (roughly) where to find it (which is what I did, I didn't use that lame search function.....).
In that same spirit there's a very large, informative thread on PBW Captained by our very own @t-dub, may his tribe increase:
PBW & the Chemistry of Clean
In this case I did use search. I remembered part of the title "Chemistry of Clean" so I used that (with the quotes) as the search term and did a 'search titles only'. Those two modifications got the single answer I wanted. Leaving the quotes out gives you every post that has 'chemistry' or 'clean' in it? Well 300 to get you started. The titles only test keeps out all the times "chemistry of clean" is discussed or mentioned in any post (and there's a bunch of posts out there.....).
Sorry to ramble, hopefully worth considering by those struggling with the system? You can also modify Google to search only this forum, not the entire world, but they seem to change things around faster than I can catch up. Reliable information isn't always free and easy......yet. What's the old joke, 'cheap, fast or good.....pick any 2'? Today we have 'free, easy or reliable, pick 2?'.
Best wishes to all,
OF
CarolKing
Singer of songs and a vapor connoisseur
Going on a road trip with the RV I will be packing the Solo 2 and a couple other vaporizers and extra glass stems to be on the safe side. @ataxian isnt the only one that breaks glass.
I have some Plushberry in the Solo 2 - getting ready for some sleep.
I thought I would clean my stem and collect the resin. It was pretty resin encrusted. I used a jet lighter to melt the resin and it all burned and smelled terrible.
So then I just cleaned out the stem with the qtip and used my PBW. I was a little disappointed that I ruined the resin. The PBW worked well. I won't use a lighter again. I needed the stem to be clean for the trip. I will make sure I bring at least some ISO along.
The Solo is a stinky vaporizer with a dirty stem.
I have some Plushberry in the Solo 2 - getting ready for some sleep.I thought I would clean my stem and collect the resin. It was pretty resin encrusted. I used a jet lighter to melt the resin and it all burned and smelled terrible.
So then I just cleaned out the stem with the qtip and used my PBW. I was a little disappointed that I ruined the resin. The PBW worked well. I won't use a lighter again. I needed the stem to be clean for the trip. I will make sure I bring at least some ISO along.The Solo is a stinky vaporizer with a dirty stem.
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kellya86
Herb gardener...
Going on a road trip with the RV I will be packing the Solo 2 and a couple other vaporizers and extra glass stems to be on the safe side. @ataxian isnt the only one that breaks glass.
I thought I would clean my stem and collect the resin. It was pretty resin encrusted. I used a jet lighter to melt the resin and it all burned and smelled terrible.
The Solo is a stinky vaporizer with a dirty stem.
When I use a torch to melt, or loosen some residue, or oils, I go very slowly with 1 second bursts of flame.
There is a delay when heating through glass as it takes time for the heat to conduct it's way through...
With short burst of flame you can give it chance to equalise, and you chance to see what's happening....
Just watch for tiny bubbles.... and remember it's always about a second behind what your actually doing... If that makes sense...
Iv even (crudely) purged small amounts of concentrate like this... no burnt taste...
Anyway I hope you enjoy your road trip...
Wherever your off to.....
OF
Well-Known Member
The Solo is a stinky vaporizer with a dirty stem.
Maybe so, but he's still a powerful friend of man......
Have a good trip, sounds like you're planning priorities are right.
If you want to reclaim the condensate I suggest soaking in ISO first. It can even be 'old, well used, ISO'. The PBW will wash out anything left, including residual ISO.
I'm not sure I'd like to travel with PBW not in the original container? You could get to watch them do test after test on the 'suspicious white powder'. Then again, tell 'em you found it.....and then ask them 'does it look like Anthrax to you too?'.
OF
pxl_jockey
Just a dude
Dang it @OF, I love you for posting this sort of thing! Just got home, unboxed my new baby & just thought I would look for best practice before 1st use. Easy-Peasy courtesy of FC, and of course it's @OF dropping knowledge like it's nothing. I would never have known this if not for you, I would've jumped right in immediately with burn-offs. Instead I get to wait 4+ hours before my patience is rewarded... so hard but so worth it when considering the long-term benefits.
So thank you sir for sharing so freely, I suspect I'm in good company here in owing you a debt of gratitude.
exime
Well-Known Member
Totally unnecessary.
"
Priming a New Battery
Not all rechargeable batteries deliver the rated capacity when new, and they require formatting. While this applies to most battery systems, manufacturers of lithium-ion batteries disagree. They say that Li-ion is ready at birth and does not need priming. Although this may be true, users have reported some capacity gains by cycling after a long storage.
"
"Lithium-ion is a very clean system that does not need additional priming once it leaves the factory, nor does it require the level of maintenance that nickel-based batteries do. Additional formatting makes little difference because the maximum capacity is available right from the beginning, (the exception may be a small capacity gain after a long storage). A full discharge does not improve the capacity once the battery has faded — a low capacity signals the end of life. A discharge/charge may calibrate a “smart” battery but this does little to improve the chemical battery. (See BU-601: Inner Working of a Smart Battery.) Instructions recommending charging a new Li-ion for 8 hours are written off as “old school,” a left-over from the old nickel battery days."
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prime_batteries