The Lotus Vaporizer

Egzoset

Banned
Hi again Natural Farmer,

The vapor cap is just 65$!

Somehow that only makes it look even more remote. Here my VG pipes costs me 88 $ each,
on the manufacturer's web site it read 55 $, euh... So i'd expect to pay something like 105 $ for a "Vapor Cap", provided i get the opportunity to pick one at all.

...your McGuiver skills...

That's funny how people come to think of others on these forums. I watched McGuiver with some interest but would never pose as one.

In any case my only available option isn't really an option and yet i do genuinely regret that, believe it or not!

:peace:
 
Egzoset,

natural farmer

Well-Known Member
Hi again Natural Farmer,



Somehow that only makes it look even more remote. Here my VG pipes costs me 88 $ each,
on the manufacturer's web site it read 55 $, euh... So i'd expect to pay something like 105 $ for a "Vapor Cap", provided i get the opportunity to pick one at all.



That's funny how people come to think of others on these forums. I watched McGuiver with some interest but would never pose as one.

In any case my only available option isn't really an option and yet i do genuinely regret that, believe it or not!

:peace:
Having "McGuiver" skills is just an expression nowadays for people with ingenuity to "make" stuff out of little... ;) And you've got skills judging from your mods. :D

Hung in there... I am sure Planet Vape will pick this up ASAP when they get to test it...
 

Yoshimattsu

Well-Known Member
I'm finding that the lower the lighter is on fuel, the higher I have to turn up the flame to get it to ignite. Is this normal? And does the lighter need to be completely empty before I can refill it, or can you "top it off"? Are there any other recommended torches that can operate really well with that half inch flame size? I think I might like to have a couple back up lighters!
 
Yoshimattsu,

Egzoset

Banned
Hi again Natural Farmer,

I am sure Planet Vape will pick this up...

At least they're supposed to be on my side of the international borders, but i wish i could just walk in and do as i've done before with other products: it would be an instant deal if i could have the whole set in front of me: pipe, adapter, "J" glass pipe... This all makes sense to me at the moment.

:nod:

Not that i care much, how does the radiative heat component compare with its convective counter-part?

:peace:
 
Egzoset,

vapatizon

Active Member
I'm finding that the lower the lighter is on fuel, the higher I have to turn up the flame to get it to ignite. Is this normal? And does the lighter need to be completely empty before I can refill it, or can you "top it off"? Are there any other recommended torches that can operate really well with that half inch flame size? I think I might like to have a couple back up lighters!

You can top it off, and contrary to the instructions on Vector butane, you don't need to reduce the flame size before refilling.
 

tiukauleh

Well-Known Member
I'm finding that the lower the lighter is on fuel, the higher I have to turn up the flame to get it to ignite. Is this normal? And does the lighter need to be completely empty before I can refill it, or can you "top it off"? Are there any other recommended torches that can operate really well with that half inch flame size? I think I might like to have a couple back up lighters!

yep, that's my experience. low fuel affects flame size. and i usually just bleed the lighter a bit before refilling.
 

natural farmer

Well-Known Member
Hi again Natural Farmer,

Not that i care much, how does the radiative heat component compare with its convective counter-part?

:peace:

Hey mate! I also wish there was a store near me selling everything vaping and glass... Unfortunately the nearest headshop is 500km away and sucks on everything so I have to pay high shipping for everything I get from abroad... :(

What is that about the "radiative heat component" again??? Can you make this clearer?
 

vapatizon

Active Member
What is that about the "radiative heat component" again??? Can you make this clearer?

I think he means radiant vs. convective heating of the herb.

The vapor cap has two plates separated by an air gap, which blocks most radiant heat (added in Lotus v2, I think). In my experience, convection is the only mode of heating that has a noticeable effect on the herb. I guess you could test it by heating the plate without drawing air, then lifting the cap to look for wisps of vapor or other signs of heating.
 
vapatizon,

natural farmer

Well-Known Member
I think he means radiant vs. convective heating of the herb.

The vapor cap has two plates separated by an air gap, which blocks most radiant heat (added in Lotus v2, I think). In my experience, convection is the only mode of heating that has a noticeable effect on the herb. I guess you could test it by heating the plate without drawing air, then lifting the cap to look for wisps of vapor or other signs of heating.

If that's the case then yeah... Radiant heat should play a very small role. It's full convection for this guy!
 
natural farmer,

Vapodudule

Well-Known Member
In fact radiant heat for herbal material can occur when you do not move the flame, that mode is kind of an unwanted value. some clear black points appear on the load when too much radiant heat occured. In another hand that radiant heat permits to heat the load very fast.

I wouldn't say that radiant heat in the principal mode of the unit but the cap is basically a filter for it to prevent the load to have it all. Some specific calculcus and measurement are needed here.
 
Vapodudule,

Egzoset

Banned
Salutations everyone,

The vapor cap has two plates separated by an air gap, which blocks most radiant heat...

Infra-Red imagery would illustrate how well the secondary plate can delay overheating above a bowl, though i think we don't see too many IR pictures being posted in concurrent threads so i'd probably just want to look for less direct evidence.

Thank you.

:peace:
 
Egzoset,

Vapodudule

Well-Known Member
the more i think about it the more id say it can be a total radiant vape.

An obvious evidence is the total dependance of size and directions of flame you put on the cap. When i switched to new WPA, the bowl were deeper than the previous. The learning curve i had for former wpa (very small flame like 1 cm and really light flaming).

Now i mastered the new WPA and there is still session where i am wrong with flame size (2cm is good). therer is also a way to hit it with a relatively good flame (2.5 cm). this all the way you agitate your hand with the lighter.

There is a way to hit it with the lighter very far from the cap. kind of wild beast here. Now i have some spare parts in case of.

Did you ever try one Egzoset?


Let me say it here guys. it has been 222 days since i all vape and i produced an average of 147 mg of ABV a day! I refuse to count tar i avoided anymore.
 
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Vapodudule,
Is the picture from the waterpipe adapter on the lotus website the actual one
Or is the one that comes with the j hook the actual one ( with o-rings)
Which one do i get when i order just the wateradapter set
 
planetarydragon,

natural farmer

Well-Known Member
the more i think about it the more id say it can be a total radiant vape.

An obvious evidence is the total dependance of size and directions of flame you put on the cap. When i switched to new WPA, the bowl were deeper than the previous. The learning curve i had for former wpa (very small flame like 1 cm and really light flaming).

Now i mastered the new WPA and there is still session where i am wrong with flame size (2cm is good). therer is also a way to hit it with a relatively good flame (2.5 cm). this all the way you agitate your hand with the lighter.

There is a way to hit it with the lighter very far from the cap. kind of wild beast here. Now i have some spare parts in case of.

A 2 cm flame is just too much mate... 1,6 cm gives you more control over the temps. Or 5/8" as the manufacturer says... And it still is the top of the flame size for me. I prefer it somewhere at 1,5 cm. :)

My logic says that if you overload the bowl and get too close to the hot plate some radiant heat is unavoidable. Other than that, I find the baking of the herbs to be rather uniform if you keep the temps comparatively low. This shows luck of much radiant heat IMO. And as long as you draw after the 2 secs of initial heat up the heat of the hot plate is transferred to the incoming air, isn't it?

I'd love it if @Max Jitter could chime in here. I'm sure he's got more data... :p

In fact radiant heat for herbal material can occur when you do not move the flame

Oh, and my habit is not to move the flame at all. Dead center for me and I just play with the height...
 
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David and Michael

Manufacturer
Manufacturer
Ding-Dong
Easy stuff first: All the new WPA's have silicone o-rings on them. The pics on the website haven't caught up with reality yet.
Radiation heating - I don't think there is any radiation heating on the Lotus. The new model has a separate plate between the hot plate and the diffuser plate (with the holes in it) to prevent radiation heating. On the old model the diffuser plate would turn blue over time due to heat. That doesn't happen on the new model.
The real way to test for radiation heating without convection heating is to load the bowl full and heat the hot plate without inhaling. If there is any radiation heating you'll see a color change to the top of the load, and that would be right below the holes in the diffusion plate.
 

wootze

Well-Known Member
Hi, you all . Someone over in cloud thread recommended the lotus.
I'm waiting patiently for the cloud iteration and just got this. Which is the total shit, right here.
First hit, clean out of the box, room (and head) filling cloud. Held it as long as I could. Milked the room.

I can still burn my shit occassionally but I mostly run the lotus through bubblers and milk a half bowl three, four times. No burn.

The other main thing for me health is vaping organic tobacco. This does the fucking job.

Anyone on the fence, just get it. I only got the delightful lotus head and the 14mm bowl. Skip the scoop, get some screens and your 3/4 days away from from milking a medium sized room. Hundred dollar bill, yall.

Edit to add....I can't imagine why any one doesn't have at least one. Thanks for the likes.
 
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Vapodudule

Well-Known Member
Ding-Dong
Easy stuff first: All the new WPA's have silicone o-rings on them. The pics on the website haven't caught up with reality yet.
Radiation heating - I don't think there is any radiation heating on the Lotus. The new model has a separate plate between the hot plate and the diffuser plate (with the holes in it) to prevent radiation heating. On the old model the diffuser plate would turn blue over time due to heat. That doesn't happen on the new model.
The real way to test for radiation heating without convection heating is to load the bowl full and heat the hot plate without inhaling. If there is any radiation heating you'll see a color change to the top of the load, and that would be right below the holes in the diffusion plate.

Would you tell the load won't be carbonized if you keep a steady center axis flame without hitting? I hope you are not. I did not try yet to waste a load but it is pretty obvious load is going to be burned that way. And this mean heat radiation of flame irradiated the load after being filtered by the cap.

The source of heat is the torch flame, as an output we are contempling the evidence of heat on a vegetal load. The experience described above make the way of transporting heat: radiation.

Where am i wrong in the theory? My experiences are pointing at it imho.
 
Vapodudule,

Vapodudule

Well-Known Member
No need to question my use of the unit, i manage to have it all imo.

The theoric statement is: "Lotus involves radiant heat for a large part of heat transfer."

The size in cm i gave were not accurate obv for all (i did not precisely measured it), it is not an objective point to discuss about the statement. imagine i am in La Paz at 4000m heigh, the same effect will be obtained by adapting the size of the flame.
 
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Vapodudule,

David and Michael

Manufacturer
Manufacturer
Would you tell the load won't be carbonized if you keep a steady center axis flame without hitting? I hope you are not. I did not try yet to waste a load but it is pretty obvious load is going to be burned that way. And this mean heat radiation of flame irradiated the load after being filtered by the cap.

The source of heat is the torch flame, as an output we are contempling the evidence of heat on a vegetal load. The experience described above make the way of transporting heat: radiation.

Where am i wrong in the theory? My experiences are pointing at it imho.
I think that your theory is correct but your testing is not.
Don't forget that if you heat the Lotus as you normally do but don't inhale then the hot plate will go to a higher than normal temp as the inhalation air normally cools the hot plate.
If the hot plate is heated to a higher than normal temperature, it will heat up the other plates and radiate to the load. If the hot plate is heated to a normal operating temperature it will not radiate to the bowl.
To do a reasonable test at the correct temp (without inhaling) you will have to put less heat on the hot plate than you usually do while inhaling.
Sound reasonable?
 
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t-dub

Vapor Sloth
I guarantee I can torch any load under the Lotus with my tools, but why do it? This would fall under user error at this point I believe . . .
 
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