Discontinued ThermoVape Revolution for concentrates

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Well, the USB port powered vape discussion seems to have died down.

If you guys really want to do this for Revoution/DART (or even Evolution) I think you're missing the obvious. Borrow a page from the e-cig guys, put an IMR 15500 inside the adapter. Don't make it a hollow tube like the TV unit currently is, but add the same sort of connector to the bottom of the tube (and a hole in the outer tube) to match and connect the cable to the USB charger that's plugged into your computer. In use the internal 15500 will power the vape, and automatically recharge between hits. The only thing you need to invent is a cable with female 510 connector on one end (lots of options there) and the mating connector to whatever you decide on in the adapter tube.

OF
Now that's kickin it up a notch.
In fact would be quite easy to use a TV sleeve and a 18350 half size 3.7 volt and use the same idea TV uses with the connector in the bottom. Ideally a mini USB. This would let a standard USB cable to be used and even one of those cheap 300-400 Ma USB supplies that are common place these days. Only trick would be to get a flat PCB type wire from the bottom to the top of battery for charging side of circuit.
Definitely a doable.
Another option for TV to consider???
Cool idea OF.

Pipes
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Definitely a doable.
Another option for TV to consider???
Cool idea OF.

Thanks, but as I said it's obvious and I'm sure considered by TV. I'm suggesting the DIY bunch consider it as it seems to have been missed?

FWIW, I see no advantage to forcing a 18mm 'battery' into a 17mm hole when there's lots of good 15mm ones with plenty of capacity for the use. Nor do I think it's a good plan to be putting the charging circuit in the tube when external options ready made exist, but it's a fine point. I also would not use the mini USB version of the connector, too little retaining force (it'll come out on it's own too easily). If you go that route, I'd at least use the smaller version with the spring loaded latches as used on some cameras and the Kindle line.

FWIW, I like the external charger idea, needing only a special cable and able to use a whole host of charger options. For instance, a dummy 'battery' with a connector (male 510?) or captive cable could be put in the WF-188 charger TV supplies?

OF
 
OF,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
FWIW, I see no advantage to forcing a 18mm 'battery' into a 17mm hole when there's lots of good 15mm ones with plenty of capacity for the use. Nor do I think it's a good plan to be putting the charging circuit in the tube when external options ready made exist, but it's a fine point. I also would not use the mini USB version of the connector, too little retaining force (it'll come out on it's own too easily). If you go that route, I'd at least use the smaller version with the spring loaded latches as used on some cameras and the Kindle line.
OF
Oh come on, can hammer the sucker in. LOL, I get so mixed up with all those battery sizes.

Yeah, your correct again. I was thinking the charging circuit would just be a diode and limiting resistor but in thinking about it, that would only trickle charge and defeat the purpose.

Was thinking USB as it's so easy to come by and almost everyone would already have that part of the mix in a draw at home.. But can see the pulling out too easy. Even the 5.5 mm plug tends to have that problem. Generally have to deform the plug slightly to get a good grip.

Anyway, good food for thought but in real life maybe USB thinking is just not for this task.?

Pipes
 
Pipes,

OF

Well-Known Member
Oh come on, can hammer the sucker in. LOL, I get so mixed up with all those battery sizes.

Yeah, your correct again. I was thinking the charging circuit would just be a diode and limiting resistor but in thinking about it, that would only trickle charge and defeat the purpose.

Was thinking USB as it's so easy to come by and almost everyone would already have that part of the mix in a draw at home.. But can see the pulling out too easy. Even the 5.5 mm plug tends to have that problem. Generally have to deform the plug slightly to get a good grip.

Anyway, good food for thought but in real life maybe USB thinking is just not for this task.?

Taper the opening, grease it up good, and push. Real hard. Just remember, you only get one shot.....

A trickle would work (at least for protected cells) but I think the chargers are cheap and very much up to the task. The neat part is you also get fastest possible recovery rate (provided the charger is sized right). A cheap 'USB power converter' would cover mains powered charging, the normal car adapter take care of the mobile crowd. Everyone's happy......or at least quiet.

I think the connector you want is the generally smaller diameter one that has a ring on it near the end. Even something like a headphone jack (I'd avoid the one now in common use for mp3 players and such) with a traditional 'tip' would work. Something for a catch to work on. Something like this maybe:
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_101135_-1?CID=PDF

I think you can make something fairly elegant that will work well, but it's not really a passthrough.....

OF
 
OF,
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jambandphan03

in flavor country
one of my early supposed 5v ecig 510 passthroughs had a battery (10440) in line with the cord, so it would trickle charge the battery, then power your PT w/ that. I don't know how they got the 5v from a 3.7v, but that was how it was marketed. I probably still have it packed away somewhere. Just following your discussion here.
 
jambandphan03,
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Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Look what I found. And only $20. Inferno USB
And didn't have to look through Jams collection to find it. Although the selection might be bigger at Jam's place.

Pipes
 

jambandphan03

in flavor country
oh, if only you knew... I have 2 boxes of ecig batteries,atomizers and other parts in the basement. Not sure what I will end up doing with all those 510 kits and Ego style batteries I have sitting down there... was hoping to find an avid ecig user to come along and take them off my hands, but Oregon doesn't seem to have many of those kind of people around so far that I have seen.

**BTW I fried one of those Ego Passthrough style (inferno) batteries with my Evo LV. So be warned... not sure how it would hold up to the Rev/Dart LV
 
jambandphan03,

NoName

Well-Known Member
That's the one. I could not find it separately. Good to know.
Thanks Tim. I have both the full metal as well as that one and IMHO the delrin wins hands down on all fronts. Never have a e-juice leak problem so the extra lip, the all metal unit has, really has no benefit. For me anyway.



Pipes

Pipes-

Agreed. I also like the delrin interface adapter (I guess mainly for appearance) but I have found (at least for myself) another benefit of the original all metal interface adapter (ie the one with the extra lip to collect leakage?): WHEN USING M601-threaded carts on my LV TV power supply. The delrin adapter's threads are too recessed to properly thread a 510 to M601 adapter (none of the four 510-M601 adapters that I own can be screwed in more than maybe 3/4's of a turn). However, the all metal interface adapter easily accommodates the 510-M601 adapters - firmly and reliably. I'm a big fan of the AW IMR 17670's and love the piece of mind that I get knowing I have different power supply/attachment options. Like someone has already stated (perhaps you Pipes?), "Leggos for adults" LOL.

NoName
 
NoName,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Leggo for adults...makes sense. But wasn't me.
Yeah appearance is the main attraction to the Delrin interface. Guess if wanted a 510-601 you could always grab another piece of leggo called a 510 shorty and go that route. Leggo was always one of my favourite toys. Guess it still is.

Pipes
 
Pipes,

pecosthecat

Well-Known Member
I have a T1 and want to be able to run a revolution/DART for concentrates. What parts do I need to order in order to convert my T1 to the revolution/DART?

Sorry for the silly question, but I find the Thermovape website confusing and I want to make sure I order the right stuff.
 
pecosthecat,

kushcabbage

vapor nerd
I have a T1 and want to be able to run a revolution/DART for concentrates. What parts do I need to order in order to convert my T1 to the revolution/DART?

Sorry for the silly question, but I find the Thermovape website confusing and I want to make sure I order the right stuff.
this would be your cheapest and easiest option:
http://thermovape.com/collections/all/products/adapter-interface but if you realllllly want you can take pliers put a paper towel over it so you don't scratch anything and unscrew the t1 core from the base, your left witha 510 connection that will fit your dart
to view the entire inventory, click shop at the bottom of the page:
http://thermovape.com/collections/all

here is what you already have http://thermovape.com/collections/all/products/thermovape-t1-interface-assembly pictures for reference to see the 510 connection which is the bottom male connection thread on the rev/darts
 
kushcabbage,

707vallejo707

NorCalLeftSideWe$tSide
It's official I'm getting an ultra from TV site. Can't wait even thogh shipping in the same state shouldn't be too bad.
 
707vallejo707,

pecosthecat

Well-Known Member
So if I order this adapter and the dart, I am good to go, right? Thanks!

this would be your cheapest and easiest option:
http://thermovape.com/collections/all/products/adapter-interface but if you realllllly want you can take pliers put a paper towel over it so you don't scratch anything and unscrew the t1 core from the base, your left witha 510 connection that will fit your dart
to view the entire inventory, click shop at the bottom of the page:
http://thermovape.com/collections/all

here is what you already have http://thermovape.com/collections/all/products/thermovape-t1-interface-assembly pictures for reference to see the 510 connection which is the bottom male connection thread on the rev/darts
 
pecosthecat,

PB88123

Vaporist
I have a T1 and want to be able to run a revolution/DART for concentrates. What parts do I need to order in order to convert my T1 to the revolution/DART?

Sorry for the silly question, but I find the Thermovape website confusing and I want to make sure I order the right stuff.

If you buy this below you get what is in the picture. Just pick the DART from the drop down menu. If you want to save $10 buy it separate and you won't get the extra mouth piece.

http://thermovape.com/collections/a...n-universal-concentrate-vaporizer-adapter-kit

revolution_kit_open.jpg
 

Venomous

Well-Known Member
Of what possible value is current capacity you don't use but pay for with larger size, the noise of a fan, more heat and higher operating costs (uses more electricity to power your vape)? You can get more modest supplies that are more appropriate for less than that by a long shot from Jameco, Digikey, Mauser and those kinda guys.

I think it's also very important that using a computer supply 'in the open' means it is no longer certified. If someone burns their house down, I want no part of the blame. Or gets a shock.....or just says they got a shock. I think finding a low cost device certified for the service (hopefully with the correct connector already on it) is the call. There are some real risks involved.

OF

PC power supplies are only going to generate the wattage and amps needed for its load. If you have a 400 watt supply, it's not going to use 400 watts when it's powered up. It will also throw out less heat in the process of doing its job.
 
Venomous,

Venomous

Well-Known Member
You seem to have completely missed either part of the point or just lack some understanding.

Simply 12 volts or 5 volts is fairly worthless for any case we're considering.

Yes, you could use a voltage divider: A passive divider would be at best 50% efficient going from 12 to 6 volts. If you add a PWM or buck circuit, you have nullified your original "simplicity" and price advantage. We need to find a 6.0 (or 6.4) to 7.2 volt supply and a modified computer PSU just wont do it sell (I pay > $.40US/kWh - no way I want to use what you've recommended).

-NDA

Combine the red leg (5v line will be -) and yellow leg (12v line will be +) from the molex 4 port plug and the psu will default to 7 volts. Snip off a molex connector and solder your connection to the adapter. Red - and yellow + ... Now you have 7 volts. You can also simply solder in a potentiometer and can dial it from 12v down to 2.3v if you want a certain voltage.
 
Venomous,

OF

Well-Known Member
PC power supplies are only going to generate the wattage and amps needed for its load. If you have a 400 watt supply, it's not going to use 400 watts when it's powered up. It will also throw out less heat in the process of doing its job.

No, that's actually only partially true. First off, there's 'standby power', there's a certain baseline that has to do with firing up the switcher and it's fan. The bigger the supply, the more that power is. It's typically a few percent, a 400 Watt supply might draw 10 just waiting for something to do.

And there's efficiency. The supply is designed to be efficient where it really counts, at or near full power. It's not uncommon to find 50% efficiency at very low powers (relatively).

Collectively, this could mean your 400 Watt supply might need say 30 Watts to deliver the first ten. A better sized supply is probably closer to 80%, maybe more. Say 12 Watts?

Combine the red leg (5v line will be -) and yellow leg (12v line will be +) from the molex 4 port plug and the psu will default to 7 volts. Snip off a molex connector and solder your connection to the adapter. Red - and yellow + ... Now you have 7 volts. You can also simply solder in a potentiometer and can dial it from 12v down to 2.3v if you want a certain voltage.

This is actually not true, either. Have you tried it? I have.

What happens is the plus five supply is a current source (traditional current, plus to minus, if you're an electron flow guy think the other way.......funny though, it's still called a current source....). It cannot sink the current supplied by the load from plus 12 (again, hold it up to the mirror if you're left handed.....). No circuit exists.

To make it work, you need to apply a static load to plus 5 larger than what you intend to dump from plus 12. In the application I used this was just a power resistor, from this standing load current is automatically subtracted.

That's the way electrons work. Really.

OF
 
You can also simply solder in a potentiometer and can dial it from 12v down to 2.3v if you want a certain voltage.
Please do not do this with nearly any device labeled a "potentiometer" and a computer PSU. If you're lucky it will just melt instead of burn.
Check the typical ratings on small (i.e. smaller than a fist) pots and see they are usually a couple dozen milliAmps.
You COULD use a rheostat, but I did say a passive voltage divider wasn't a good idea - the power it would dissipate is left as an exercise... Oh, and look at the price of a 15 or 25 watt rheostat vs. a 50 mA pot (not quite 100x).

OF already explained why the rest (i.e. 7v from 12-5) won't work (and probably knows that current and conventional "flow" are backwards because Benjamin Franklin made a mistake :) ).

-NDA
 
Nick Again,
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707vallejo707

NorCalLeftSideWe$tSide
[quote="jambandphan03, post: 261094, member: 2109"
**BTW I fried one of those Ego Passthrough style (inferno) batteries with my Evo LV. So be warned... not sure how it would hold up to the Rev/Dart LV[/quote]

you know up until a couple days when this thing failed it was working like a charm. http://www.discountvapers.com/usb-variable-voltage-passthrough-black/ but this was working w my LV dart (About a month). I think the wire just got worn off, cause it still works if I giggle the chord. You do get what you pay for, and I wanna see how this ultra works!
 
707vallejo707,

kittyboy

Well-Known Member
this would be your cheapest and easiest option:
http://thermovape.com/collections/all/products/adapter-interface but if you realllllly want you can take pliers put a paper towel over it so you don't scratch anything and unscrew the t1 core from the base, your left witha 510 connection that will fit your dart
to view the entire inventory, click shop at the bottom of the page:
http://thermovape.com/collections/all

here is what you already have http://thermovape.com/collections/all/products/thermovape-t1-interface-assembly pictures for reference to see the 510 connection which is the bottom male connection thread on the rev/darts
would this also work on omni and persei? I need a good earl cart And is this the dabber dart?
Thanks
wondering if you get about 8-10 good hits from a fill or if it is more like 2-4 and you got to refill.
 
kittyboy,

OF

Well-Known Member
Please do not do this with nearly any device labeled a "potentiometer" and a computer PSU.

You COULD use a rheostat, but I did say a passive voltage divider wasn't a good idea - the power it would dissipate is left as an exercise... Oh, and look at the price of a 15 or 25 watt rheostat vs. a 50 mA pot (not quite 100x).

OF already explained why the rest (i.e. 7v from 12-5) won't work (and probably knows that current and conventional "flow" are backwards because Benjamin Franklin made a mistake :) ).

I agree, while a bit crude potentiometers are a bit more stable but they will waste a huge amount of power in this application. Which means heat to deal with. Rheostats, while simple, also have their serious disadvantages which is why there use in 'real world products' is so rare. Auto instrument light dimmers being the last hold outs I can think of? And even that is going away.

Modern '3 terminal' and other regulators make linear active circuits a much more attractive alternative IMO.

I understand the urban legend around Franklin, but I also understand A.M. Ampere was fond of the idea. Being as how we name stuff after dead scientists I'm OK with his definition, after all, the whole thing is his fault you know. It doesn't matter really which way it goes, in fact many texts are available 'both ways' as long as we stick to one concept and play by those rules. I've worked on accelerators of many stripes to long to not know the we electrons go minus to plus (also arbitrary labels, BTW) but the fact remains it's called "Conventional Current" for a reason. If you look up current sources you'll see they are positive.

The bottom line is, I think, all the easy (and clever) solutions have been explored already......not that a guy shouldn't consider them, of course, but keep it well thought out and in perspective?

OF
 
OF,

Venomous

Well-Known Member
No, that's actually only partially true. First off, there's 'standby power', there's a certain baseline that has to do with firing up the switcher and it's fan. The bigger the supply, the more that power is. It's typically a few percent, a 400 Watt supply might draw 10 just waiting for something to do.

And there's efficiency. The supply is designed to be efficient where it really counts, at or near full power. It's not uncommon to find 50% efficiency at very low powers (relatively).

Collectively, this could mean your 400 Watt supply might need say 30 Watts to deliver the first ten. A better sized supply is probably closer to 80%, maybe more. Say 12 Watts?



This is actually not true, either. Have you tried it? I have.

What happens is the plus five supply is a current source (traditional current, plus to minus, if you're an electron flow guy think the other way.......funny though, it's still called a current source....). It cannot sink the current supplied by the load from plus 12 (again, hold it up to the mirror if you're left handed.....). No circuit exists.

To make it work, you need to apply a static load to plus 5 larger than what you intend to dump from plus 12. In the application I used this was just a power resistor, from this standing load current is automatically subtracted.

That's the way electrons work. Really.

OF


We've been doing this in the pc world for damn near 12 years without issues when it comes to water cooling. There's no side effects and pc power supplies have come a longggg ways. And it does work, converting that rail output to 7v.
 
Venomous,

Venomous

Well-Known Member
Please do not do this with nearly any device labeled a "potentiometer" and a computer PSU. If you're lucky it will just melt instead of burn.
Check the typical ratings on small (i.e. smaller than a fist) pots and see they are usually a couple dozen milliAmps.
You COULD use a rheostat, but I did say a passive voltage divider wasn't a good idea - the power it would dissipate is left as an exercise... Oh, and look at the price of a 15 or 25 watt rheostat vs. a 50 mA pot (not quite 100x).

OF already explained why the rest (i.e. 7v from 12-5) won't work (and probably knows that current and conventional "flow" are backwards because Benjamin Franklin made a mistake :) ).

-NDA

Couldn't think of the name at the time (rheostat) so i used potentiometer.
 
Venomous,

OF

Well-Known Member
We've been doing this in the pc world for damn near 12 years without issues when it comes to water cooling. There's no side effects and pc power supplies have come a longggg ways. And it does work, converting that rail output to 7v.

Not needing water cooling does not change the fact that this is not an efficient thing to do. While I don't claim to have tried every PC supply ever made, I've done a few in my time and know that specific idea did not work until plus five got loaded. In fact, some supplies I've used from PCs would not even bring plus 12 up until there was some plus five current running.

Why would an amateur even be messing with something like this? I thought the original idea was to drive a TV heater? We've already identified a couple of very appropriate supplies for that, jury rigged seven volts is not one of them......

Couldn't think of the name at the time (rheostat) so i used potentiometer.

Still doesn't make it a good idea, for the reasons stated above. Given a fixed supply, a fixed resistor would work just as well (and be a lot cheaper and most likely smaller).....still wouldn't be a good idea though.

OK - Just buy one (a USB passthrough - does NOT work on most computer ports! - read the reviews):
http://www.discountvapers.com/usb-variable-voltage-passthrough-black/

Too bad, I was hoping to power my perpetual motion machine with a bunch of these so I could tell the Electric company to buzz off......

Then again with a warranty like "We want you to be satisfied with every product we sell. Please contact us if you experience any issues with any product we sell" what could go wrong.

Great find, NDA, thanks for passing it on!

OF
 
OF,
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