Discontinued Imp by MistVape

Improvaper

Improvaper

Well-Known Member
Hey @antispleen would you mind sharing your current fav TCR/resistance/wattage settings so I don't have to search back for them? Thanks. I'm experimenting.
 
Improvaper,
antispleen

antispleen

Company Rep
Company Rep
Sorry about the delayed response. Couple of pot cookies knocked me right out last night .
Improvize said:
Hey @antispleen would you mind sharing your current fav TCR/resistance/wattage settings so I don't have to search back for them? Thanks. I'm experimenting.
Click to expand...
I am currently running 45 peak watts, TCR of 180, .245ish ohms, at 370 to 420 F.

mistvaporizer said:
Does the latest model with the built in washer need the heat sink on the pico
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I still think it would, have included a couple of pictures.
2l8g6d0.jpg

2nu96w.jpg
 
HerbieVonVapster

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Improvize said:
Interesting.

I've been running 195/.222/50w successfully but was looking for faster cold starts. Your settings are super hot for me and set it glowing bright immediately. I shoot for that slight glow starting around 440 as a baseline for what I consider reality.

Lowering resistance back to where it is measured at .222, your 45w and 145 tcr seems to be faster heating than my 50w and 195 with glowing I consider appropriate. Not what I expected. Just a quick initial impression for now but that seems backwards to the way I understand things.
Click to expand...

Increasing cold resistance will raise the heat output. It's not the ideal way to do it with (at least the DNA mods) I find dual coil mods like the stempod needs either higher TCR or with DNA a warmer running material file. I suggest looking into these methods over increasing or locking OHM for TC functions when using with a DNA chipped mod.
 
Improvaper

Improvaper

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I edited until I can test more. But I'm not using my DNA mod with the Imp. Just the Tubo'd Evic v2. Thank you for the info, though. Still working on my StemPod setup as well and I'm finding tiered profiles are necessary there to compensate for degrading coils without having to constantly connect to a computer.

HerbieVonVapster said:
Increasing cold resistance will raise the heat output. It's not the ideal way to do it with (at least the DNA mods) I find dual coil mods like the stempod needs either higher TCR or with DNA a warmer running material file. I suggest looking into these methods over increasing or locking OHM for TC functions when using with a DNA chipped mod.
Click to expand...
 
HerbieVonVapster

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Improvize said:
Yeah, I edited until I can test more. But I'm not using my DNA mod with the Imp. Just the Tubo'd Evic v2. Thank you for the info, though. Still working on my StemPod setup as well and I'm finding tiered profiles are necessary there to compensate for degrading coils without having to constantly connect to a computer.
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Interesting so your increasing the OHMs to compensate for degrading of the coil? Does SS resistance range change as coils age?
 
HerbieVonVapster,
HerbieVonVapster

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
I'll check it out over there. I took a little break from the stempod. It my travel vaporizer and after the long road trip I need to replace the coils. In the next week or so should have an IMP and hopefully update the stempod DNA files then. Figure be playing with coils and setting on the IMP with DNA mods. The stempod setting should be similar so easer to do them at same time.
 
Improvaper

Improvaper

Well-Known Member
Ok, so here's a general picture I'm seeing forming with my TCR usage on the Imp:

The baseline instructions of TCR 185 work fine for me with my measured stock coil resistance reading of 222 ohms locked in. Temperatures and vapors feel appropriate for a given temperature. No coil glowing until about 440-445°.

Lowering my TCR seems to have the effect of speeding up the first hit on a cold start. Slight, but noticeable enough to explore. So, for every 20 units of reduction in TCR, I seem to need 8 ohms of resistance increase to keep things in what I consider to be the "realm of reality" and to keep glowing down until 440°.

I'm not going to claim this is truly linear function. I'm sure it's not, but in the ranges I've tested it (105-205 TCR) it holds very true. So these are the values that work for me:

TCR 105 - .254 ohms
TCR 125 - .246 ohms
TCR 145 - .238 ohms
TCR 165 - .230 ohms
TCR 185 - .222 ohms --- stock
TCR 205 - .214 ohms

Since every coil is a little different, I would base your scale on stock TCR 185 = your measured ohms and work out the rest from there.

The difference in heat up times I find is quite different between 105 and 205, with 105 delivering vapor faster from a cold start without nearly so much priming. I'm able to go to a faster, steady draw more quickly with a lower TCR. This is all at the same temps with the same amount of non-glow.

I'd love some verification of this from other users. I'd also like some box mod safety experts to chime in on the safety of this technique. So far in the range I've tested listed above, everything seems to be working as expected. I'm also curious how this might affect battery life. I feel a lot of battery is used (for me) priming cold start hits as I'm a microdoser doing 2-3 hits at a time at most, generally.

Right now rocking some TCR 105 hits and enjoying life immensely. Great, great vape.
 
Improvaper

Improvaper

Well-Known Member
My understanding of TCR doesn't really help explain the results that I'm experiencing, but they are undeniable to me after testing for a day now. By lowering my TCR to 105, I'm getting simply incredible performance.

Try it yourself... wherever you're happy now, setting's-wise, lower your TCR by 40 and raise your impedance by 16 and see if it starts producing vapor quicker. I might just be imagining this, but I don't think so.
 
HerbieVonVapster

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Improvize said:
Ok, so here's a general picture I'm seeing forming with my TCR usage on the Imp:

The baseline instructions of TCR 185 work fine for me with my measured stock coil resistance reading of 222 ohms locked in. Temperatures and vapors feel appropriate for a given temperature. No coil glowing until about 440-445°.

Lowering my TCR seems to have the effect of speeding up the first hit on a cold start. Slight, but noticeable enough to explore. So, for every 20 units of reduction in TCR, I seem to need 8 ohms of resistance increase to keep things in what I consider to be the "realm of reality" and to keep glowing down until 440°.

I'm not going to claim this is truly linear function. I'm sure it's not, but in the ranges I've tested it (105-205 TCR) it holds very true. So these are the values that work for me:

TCR 105 - .254 ohms
TCR 125 - .246 ohms
TCR 145 - .238 ohms
TCR 165 - .230 ohms
TCR 185 - .222 ohms --- stock
TCR 205 - .214 ohms

Since every coil is a little different, I would base your scale on stock TCR 185 = your measured ohms and work out the rest from there.

The difference in heat up times I find is quite different between 105 and 205, with 105 delivering vapor faster from a cold start without nearly so much priming. I'm able to go to a faster, steady draw more quickly with a lower TCR. This is all at the same temps with the same amount of non-glow.

I'd love some verification of this from other users. I'd also like some box mod safety experts to chime in on the safety of this technique. So far in the range I've tested listed above, everything seems to be working as expected. I'm also curious how this might affect battery life. I feel a lot of battery is used (for me) priming cold start hits as I'm a microdoser doing 2-3 hits at a time at most, generally.

Right now rocking some TCR 105 hits and enjoying life immensely. Great, great vape.
Click to expand...


Below is copy and pasted from this link. I use the correct cold OHM with DNA chips unlocked. For other mods I'm going let other offer there feelings using this method. Personally I don't feel it's the best method since you can adjust TCR on device.

https://www.ecigssa.co.za/guide-to-fine-tuning-temp-control-vaping.t18206/

I suggest reading the whole post it's a good overview on TC. Below is info that more directly relates.


**TCR gives us how large the change in resistance will be for a change in one °C. For SS 316L, each °C increase from room temperature will give a 0.000879 Ohm change in resistance, for a 1 Ohm coil. For a 0.5 Ohm coil, the change in resistance for each 1 °C will be (0.000879 * 0.5) 0.00044 Ohm; for a 2 Ohm coil, it will be (0.000879 * 2.0) 0.001758 Ohm.

Cold or Nominal Resistance, and resistance locking: Since TC measures the change in resistance, it is very important to have a baseline resistance for the mod to use as a calibration of the temperature curve. For almost all TC mods, this baseline resistance is known as the cold resistance, and is usually defined as the resistance of your coil at room temperature (which is not, for whatever reason, 25 °C but more often 20 °C. Stupid North-centric thinking...). The nominal resistance of your coil is the resistance of your coil at the current ambient temperature - but generally not something that you have to worry about. You don’t have to cool your atty down to 20 °C when you connect it (unless you have a fancy mod with an ambient temperature sensor, such as a DNA200 - in this case, you will have an absolutely consistent TC curve if you can connect it at around 20 °C), but you have to make sure that your atty is cooled down entirely.


It is extremely important that when you attach an atty to your mod that the atty is cooled down to the current ambient temperature. Just to give you an indication of the sensitivity we are talking about, consider the following example. You have an SS coil installed, with a resistance of 0.5 Ohm, at the current ambient temperature of 28 °C (your mod will most likely assume it at 20 °C, but the 8 ° difference won’t hurt us much). You take a toot or two on it - and the coil temperature jumps to 240 °C, with a resistance of 0.68 Ohm. If you remove and reconnect your atty (and stating that it is a ‘new coil’ - more on this in the next paragraph), your mod will think the base resistance is 0.68 Ohm at 20 °C. If you hit it now, it will go up to what the mod thinks is 220 °C, but the resistance will be 0.86 Ohm, which in reality will be ~400 °C. In other words, you will get one hell of a dry hit, and most likely some fire from the atty as well. This is a drastic example, but take my word that even a change of 0.05 Ohm of the base resistance can lead to very large (40 to 100 °C) changes in the measured temperature in comparison to the actual temperature. This will either lead to a dry hit when the mod thinks it is still safe, or practically no vapour at all.

Locking your resistance is a bit of a disputed issue. Some people say you say that you should always lock your resistance after installing your coil. I, as well as some others, disagree. In my opinion, you should only lock your resistance if your atty’s resistance tends to fluctuate (for whatever reason), or if you tend to vape in different temperatures (such as in an AC-controlled office, as well as out in the eyes of Hades aka South African sunshine) and you don’thave a built-in ambient temperature sensor in your mod. Regardless of my or anyone else’s opinions, lock or don’t lock your resistance based on what you feel works for you. Keep the following in mind though: the resistance of a coil takes a number of vapes to settle (and, quite often, only settles after leaving it overnight), and might even change a bit directly after a rewicking. So if you do lock your resistance shortly after a rebuild/rewick, just check the actual resistance a day later to see whether you need to adjust your (locked) resistance. In addition, if you feel that your vape isn’t the same at a given temperature two days in a row (especially near the end of a coil’s lifetime), then you might want to check the locked resistance again. Lastly, if you lock your resistance in order to get a more consistent temperature callibration throughout the day, try to measure and lock your resistance early in the morning, before you start vaping, and keep it locked for the day, but unlock and relock again the next morning. With all that said, I actually tend to lock the resistance of stock TC coils - I found these to sometimes fluctuate a bit.
 
Improvaper

Improvaper

Well-Known Member
Well, my wife just got home from work and took a cold hit on the Imp. She is the queen of "ghost hit/combustion" frustration. She just has a terrible time with convection vapes (I did introduce a lot of them at once, I'll admit) and the Imp for whatever reason is her toughest one.

Her eyes lit up and she coughed quite a bit on one hit. I've been ordered to stay at TCR 105 now. :D
 
Sativapo

Sativapo

Well-Known Member
I think one of the big strengths of the IMP base is it doesn't need a heat sink (well except that pico case). On the glow which is similar to the MPL as for the base but you can run single coil it also needs a higer TCR. I think it's the steel absorbing the heat so it needs to heat more as a whole for the same temp in the chamber. The space under the IMP base also plays a big role. I think these metal guys pump more battery and hit harder but the IMP hits smoother and at least as potent in a special way. Sometimes reminds me of my firewood, with a bit more faded taste and easier draw style. Talking bout the standard stem version waiting for the oring one.

@Improvize
I tried your findings : running AF at TCR 180 PID 800 60 coil 0.226 tried 140 0.240 and indeed it heats at similar level. Maybe the new one a bit faster clouds but it's slight. I feel more comfortable next to real coil level adjusting a bit than doing the math.
 
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mistvaporizer

mistvaporizer

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Improvize said:
Well, my wife just got home from work and took a cold hit on the Imp. She is the queen of "ghost hit/combustion" frustration. She just has a terrible time with convection vapes (I did introduce a lot of them at once, I'll admit) and the Imp for whatever reason is her toughest one.

Her eyes lit up and she coughed quite a bit on one hit. I've been ordered to stay at TCR 105 now. :D
Click to expand...
I'm confident you are seeing something.
Maybe there is something about how the power is controlled by the firmware
 
mistvaporizer,
mistvaporizer

mistvaporizer

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
The least five units i shipped got too small lower screens. I had to have some made that are a little bigger. Didn't catch the problem right away.
New screens are here on Thursday so if you had a problem let me know and I'll send the new screen. In the meantime I'll look up recently shipped orders
 
Improvaper

Improvaper

Well-Known Member
My screen fell out a lot when I first got it but hasn't since the first few days. Not sure if that's what you mean, @mistvaporizer ?

Regarding my TCR technique, I'm finding that while the super fast vapor on the first hit thing is great, I'm eating through battery a lot faster. I'm going to go back up to 145 tcr .238 ohms as a happy medium between "stock" and "turbo". It still delivers a noticeable kickstart for me and it's still easy to get thick vapor at lower temps.

Interestingly, this technique does not work at all on my StemPod/DNA200 setup. Even a change of .001 ohms messes up everything over there and the resulting TCR range is much less forgiving. Not sure if that is a consequence of the coils I'm using or the mod's tc design. Probably the latter.

Regardless, my method is a very Imp-specific technique, but I love it. Keeping the glowing consistently minimal throughout the temperature range is important, but having the ability to boost performance if desired (at the expense of battery) even with the same glow factor is pretty sweet, I think. Intentional or not, it's a feature!
 
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