Multi-brand Xmax V3Pro vaporizer, convection, on-demand&session.

[David Root]

I soaked my mouth piece in ISO. Should not have. Did not know. I bought the WPA and use that as a glass mouth piece. I prefer the screen in the glass too.

David

 

[maremaresing]

Yeah some plastic like acrylic cracks from alcohol, but I haven't seen a plastic like this crack. FWIW, mine is still good as new, but I don't use the V3Pro as hard as many here.

 

[Thunderbelch]

Lol

I guarantee the submerging of the other 2 parts transfer iso way more then me wiping it down.

So magnet falling out is also from iso?

This is bizarre if the plastic literally cracks from being touched by iso if you think about this...

I still think it's a mold issue, I've dealt with injection molding - where the cracks are forming are around the 90 degree bends, it's a common failure....... I suggest to pull up the control plan and review how often you do qa sample checks or increase sample sizes whatever your quality assurance is puting out.

Just a suggestion, but: Do you think it's possible that wedging a piece of tape in there to hold the magnet in could have put more pressure on the mouthpiece and cracked it? Not that that makes the failure ok, the magnet shouldn't have come out in the first place.

 

[MoltenTiger]

Just a suggestion, but: Do you think it's possible that wedging a piece of tape in there to hold the magnet in could have put more pressure on the mouthpiece and cracked it? Not that that makes the failure ok, the magnet shouldn't have come out in the first place.

I think this seems quite possible, given that multiple people have reported cracked units after refitting the magnets with various methods.

The moulded parts internal stresses are likely exacerbated by different material thermal expansion rates and just overall weak design, being prone to degradation from common cleaning agent certainly doesn't help, it all seems to explain the limited lifespans some have suffered.

It's a good reason to focus on redesigned mouthpieces to improve the overall kit and experience.


Fun thing I found while making up my second Fury 2 adapter, the glass pieces from Xmax fit Dynavap tips, so that's neat!



You can bake it in the Xmax chamber too, although I didn't get it to click it probably helped with extraction with a good couple minutes to heat soak. A quick zap to click with the torch and I was getting some decent vapour quality from this gen1 M!


Really liking the Fury2 adapters with the V3 Pro though, they do the job very well!



It's a little lighter with the smaller chambers, but no slouch. This set up was giving huge hits, very happy with it.

 

[thunderstealer1337]

Just a suggestion, but: Do you think it's possible that wedging a piece of tape in there to hold the magnet in could have put more pressure on the mouthpiece and cracked it? Not that that makes the failure ok, the magnet shouldn't have come out in the first place.

I did not know others have cracking issues after their magnet fell out.

You can add me to the list.

I did not want to try glueing it in there because the mouthpiece itself gets annoying hot to hold in the hand after back to back bowls.

I've also reread the instructions, there is nothing stating the mouthpiece cannot touch iso - just do not submerge it. I recommend to change the manual since it doesn't clearly explain how fragile iso is to the mouthpiece, and maybe another clause of double checking the submerged pieces do not have iso in all the crevices so it doesn't leach out into the mouthpiece.

https://imgur.com/a/dRudByY

Lastly @PPN can you confirm your website does not email after submitting a customer request inquiry using the website? Just checking if I did submit it correctly cuz I did it on my phone. TIA

 

[LesPlenty]

I guarantee the submerging of the other 2 parts transfer iso way more then me wiping it down.

You are supposed to thoroughly rinse the iso off the parts with water and dry them before re-using them.

This is bizarre if the plastic literally cracks from being touched by iso if you think about this...

Had a jet lighter body crack from iso on my hands(I think it was acrylic as mentioned above), it also dissolved some rubber coating off another vape the same way...
I bet Xmax is working on a solution to the loosey-goosey magnets as we speak.
I prefer the Xmax WPA over the Fury2...bigger ovens, I also doubt we will see an all-glass variant as glass tolerances are usually all over the shop and caused HR a lot of headaches. with their tolerances.

Edit, the instructions are clear, it says more than once how to clean the plastic part...soap and water...all parts in iso except plastic mouthpiece...seems clear to me

 

[Petetbay]

There’s instructions?

 

[MoltenTiger]

You are supposed to thoroughly rinse the iso off the parts with water and dry them before re-using them.

Had a jet lighter body crack from iso on my hands(I think it was acrylic as mentioned above), it also dissolved some rubber coating off another vape the same way...
I bet Xmax is working on a solution to the loosey-goosey magnets as we speak.
I prefer the Xmax WPA over the Fury2...bigger ovens, I also doubt we will see an all-glass variant as glass tolerances are usually all over the shop and caused HR a lot of headaches. with their tolerances.

Edit, the instructions are clear, it says more than once how to clean the plastic part...soap and water...all parts in iso except plastic mouthpiece...seems clear to me

Yeah the instructions are there and clear enough.

I think it was more likely thermal stresses than purely material degradation from alcohol that has caused the failure. But both issues together are a bad recipe.

I would think there would be at least 10,000pcs of the plastic stock mouthpieces produced to meet various MOQs and tooling costs.

Probably there should be a better design similar to the alloy/glass variants for future production going forward. The magnets are internally pocketed and the scraper can't melt (although it has a questionable coating), they are much more durable and easier to clean.

Given how much better the glass options are, and how well they work direct with the screen/vapour maze insert, it wouldn't be a bad move if it became the stock option.

The advantage of the glass tube-in-oven solution is reasonable when considering long term device health/usage. The bigger oven with OEM options is useful, but I'm getting as big clouds with fewer hits per chamber using the glass tube insert, it works quite well but I'll play around and do some more testing to see. Given that I can put less herb into the Sublimator and get a more powerful hit than even a full chamber V3 Pro can offer, or two of them, I don't really need the V3 Pro to try and keep up. For on the go usage it is offering heavy enough hits with or without the glass tube reducing the chamber size, so I think I'm happier without silicone in the chamber and never having to wipe down the chamber sidewalls.

On the glass tolerance note, I did notice that the Fury 2 WPAs are ultra cheap fab glass, like getting seconds quality from a place that doesn't make anything worthwhile.

The tolerances of the pipe fitting from the Xmax pieces, which fit Dynavap tips, are quite a bit better. It's still cheap china boro with poor quality ground fittings, but it shows better consistency and QC/QA than the HealthyRips offering, which are about as janky as glass gets. You can see how poor the welds were formed, you can see residual tooling/jig scars, and there is hardly any dimension similar enough between my two samples.


Compare that to something from EHLE for eg. and it's clear that with the right briefing and attitude it's not asking for a lot to get a well toleranced OD glass tube with a welded screen.

 

[PPN]

The mouthpiece gets wiped down with iso, the other contents gets submerged in iso,

Hi, prefer to use the Iso wipes with 70% ISO max and rinse it with water after, as well ISO itself doesn't remove all the dirt, that's why prefer to use soap and water for this part.

I like being able to throw things in alcohol to clean and disinfect them. Being able to have aa product that can endure a minutes in alcohol makes cleaning easier, it also shows that the material is stable. If it can't handle an ISO wash, what might it be leeching out with heat and time?

I agree for the parts in contact with vapor but, like I said, ISO doesn't remove organic dirt, plastic is plastic and doesn't stand with ISO. We had the same issue with the Starry's mp where there is a plastic frame which doesn't stand with ISO. Please use soap and water for this part.

Yes but how else do you clean it, it was never submerged, see my post above where I forgot to quote you. My vendor asked me to email your group (topgreen) via the website, so I did that, but there was no email confirmation that I successfully sent one.

please send your email to the following email adress: support@topgreencig.com , there may be a few days delay before to be answered but you'll got a reply, let me know if not!

Mine has lasted 3 months with heavy daily use...fingers crossed!

As long as you rinse well with water after iso you will be fine.

With soap and water as the instructions say.
I just ultrasonic clean mine with the UC heater on about 60c/140f as I don't like the soapy smell on any of my vape gear.

It would be cool if something similar was made available by TopGreen.

Hi, I already transmitted your wish to see a full glass vaporpath wpa with glass bowl sliding in the bowl, great idea for sure!

So magnet falling out is also from iso?

I think so, most glues doesn't stand with ISO, it's a solvent, so it disolves the glue!

I soaked my mouth piece in ISO. Should not have. Did not know. I bought the WPA and use that as a glass mouth piece. I prefer the screen in the glass too.

David

Sorry, please look at the user guide (recommendation for every people owning a V3Pro) and understand the ISO is usefull only for the parts where resin sticks and since no vapor touches the plastic mouthpiece the residuals you can see will be easily cleaned using soap&water.

I did not know others have cracking issues after their magnet fell out.

I recommend to change the manual


Lastly @PPN can you confirm your website does not email after submitting a customer request inquiry using the website? Just checking if I did submit it correctly cuz I did it on my phone. TIA

Mouthpieces aren't cracking cause the missing magnet but cause the ISO used to clean ( which is the cause of the magnet's fall, glue was disolved by ISO)

You are supposed to thoroughly rinse the iso off the parts with water and dry them before re-using them.

I bet Xmax is working on a solution to the loosey-goosey magnets as we speak.
I also doubt we will see an all-glass variant as glass tolerances are usually all over the shop and caused HR a lot of headaches. with their tolerances.

Edit, the instructions are clear, it says more than once how to clean the plastic part...soap and water...all parts in iso except plastic mouthpiece...seems clear to me

Nice cleaning suggestion!
I believe magnets issues are coming from the iSO cleaning... mine are still strong glued on the mouthpiece.
It's good to know about the HR's headaches caused by the all glass wpas... TY
Yes but I'll suggest to add a warming cause that issue was the main with the Starry in Reddit

There’s instructions?

Yes there is

Yeah the instructions are there and clear enough.

I think it was more likely thermal stresses than purely material degradation from alcohol that has caused the failure. But both issues together are a bad recipe.

Lot of interesting points in your post, we will consider your opinions. We made devices with full ceramic mouthpieces/wpa, do you think it may be a good material for an optionnal stealth mouthpiece for dry use? Although I don't think we will consider to replace the stock mp by the glass mp in order to keep the basic package price as affordable as possible. But we are considering to offer a full experience kit including the glass mp and glass adapter and maybe more...

 

[MoltenTiger]

We made devices with full ceramic mouthpieces/wpa, do you think it may be a good material for an optionnal stealth mouthpiece for dry use?

I should look into the full Xmax range more.

I believe it was a Vapefiend UK vid praising the Starry that nearly had me trying it, but the V3 Pro appeared at the right time, and so far I'm really satisfied with it.

Ignoring a potential extra 5-10dC temp bump, the only gripe I have with my V3 Pro units is with the stock mouthpiece, but it's not that bad. I knew I wouldn't like it, I was waiting for the WPA to be available and accidentally bought it earlier with the glass MP. I was a bit annoyed to find it wasn't the WPA, but glad that, to me, it was much better than the plastic option. I very quickly bought another unit because of how much I liked the first, and grabbed a couple of the glass adapters with it, all on sale too. Actually I had the store hold my order, bought more glass MPs and told them to swap to WPA once they arrived. It all came together in lighting speed, which was awesome. So nice to receive some respectable CS for my vape gear for once (ffff HL, Sublimator, they both leave a lot to be desired!).
Shout out to Vaper Choice down under, and also to PPN and this type of support offered here. It's great.


Anyway, for mouthpieces I would generally class plastic, siloxane and ceramic as undesirable. Plastic has durability issues, safety concerns, and is almost always superseded by 3rd party superior material options, whether it is the glass stems or fully stainless CNC Mighty MP replacements etc., it is a common trend to want to avoid it, usually with additional cost involved. Plastic is well suited for complex parts production, but for food/drug type products, it is undesirable in my opinion. Even when the compound is disclosed, there will be better options.
Siloxane has similar issues, material origin, purity and overall quality can vary by a lot as well. It is permeable and puts a lifespan on whatever it is applied to.
Ceramic material has a similar wide range of meaning. The main concern is going to be particulate exposure as many types of ceramic materials are prone to gradual degradation and surface wear. This was what I was thinking when handling the V3 Pro ceramic piece - what is it? How is it formed? Is it milled? Is it laser sintered? Also what plastic compound is being used? There are certainly better options which will sustain isopropyl exposure.
Something like Zirconia which could be considered a ceramic is going to be on the other end of the quality spectrum and won't be prone to degradation.


Materials I like for a mouthpiece are basically Titanium, glass or wood.
Fairly cheap, easy to work, generally safe and inert. Especially with safe metals and borosilicate, they are easy to clean and won't absorb anything to cause residual smells or uncleanable surfaces.

The challenge is sealing airflow to force the particular venturi flow dynamic needed for proper convection heat exchange. Tapered glass fittings are very good for airtight attachments, a tried and trusted design. Many vaporisers have opted for this solution with good success. It's a little tricky housing the herb and SS mesh baskets aren't fantastic items.
This kind of thing could be packaged into a similar product to the V3 Pro but it would need to be larger and really it wouldn't benefit much apart from being an all glass vapour path, which can already be achieved in this form factor. Keen to see what you come up with in that space.

In terms of a stealth mouthpiece, intended as another option for the V3 Pro for dry use - is this not already occurring with the stock option? Albeit it isn't fully ceramic, it can be made to practically be by removing the largely redundant plastic piece.
An option that eradicates plastic would be nice, if the fully ceramic design also seals to the chamber without silicone that might be worth pursuing if the quality of the material is right.

However I think that there is some other option which needs to be discovered. I would be happier buying the V3 Pro body without a mouthpiece at all and saving the tiny amount of difference rather than parting with the near negligible amount twice and winding up with two stock mouthpieces, which I don't really plan on using and never did.


Alright it is definitely time to mull up haha

I just like to use my portables like a heater and pop them on whatever j-hook, stem or bubbler I'm using without gunking up the chamber or mouthpiece

This is why you're the bossman !

Such a good way to go.

I'm liking the magnetic attachment with the internal glass too. Getting some massive hits here off of tiny amounts. Stoked.

 

[Antrim50]

Thought I'd check back in on this. Sad to see mouthpiece cracks on some units.
I'm still using mine every day and it's as good as new.

FWIW, I don't ever iso the outer mouthpiece, I just soak it in dish soap and rinse. The metal and ceramic get an iso soak.

I feel my technique is yielding great results. Session mode, max temp, four pulls held down, followed by a fifth long draw and I get huge clouds. Very happy with it

 

[Hemper]

The more I use my V3 Pro, the more I like it - and find I am using my other much higher-end units (TM, FW7) less. Why? In a word (or two), consistency and simplicity. I won't compare here, but want to share what I find right about the V3 Pro. It's easy to load / unload, Easy to turn on / set adjust. Draw is consistent and airholes are great for modulating airflow once you get the hang of them. Cleanup is simple-stupid: q-tips, paper towels and 91% ISO - once a week, takes 5 minutes. No soaking required.

And what I am noticing most recently - battery consumption is not only the most efficient of my vapes, it is also the most linear. Meaning, I can start a session with a battery at around 25%-30% and still get very close to the same performance from the V3 heater as I get from a fresh battery. Other units seem to need a battery with some reserves / headroom to power the heater properly or the hits are not as robust.

Sure there are some inferior parts and design flaws we all know on the V3 Pro, but this is becoming my go-to over some heavy hitters. I should have my new WPA adapter in a few days.

V3 Pro is a surprisingly good fit for me

 

[Antrim50]

The more I use my V3 Pro, the more I like it - and find I am using my other much higher-end units (TM, FW7) less. Why? In a word (or two), consistency and simplicity. I won't compare here, but want to share what I find right about the V3 Pro. It's easy to load / unload, Easy to turn on / set adjust. Draw is consistent and airholes are great for modulating airflow once you get the hang of them. Cleanup is simple-stupid: q-tips, paper towels and 91% ISO - once a week, takes 5 minutes. No soaking required.

And what I am noticing most recently - battery consumption is not only the most efficient of my vapes, it is also the most linear. Meaning, I can start a session with a battery at around 25%-30% and still get very close to the same performance from the V3 heater as I get from a fresh battery. Other units seem to need a battery with some reserves / headroom to power the heater properly or the hits are not as robust.

Sure there are some inferior parts and design flaws we all know on the V3 Pro, but this is becoming my go-to over some heavy hitters. I should have my new WPA adapter in a few days.

V3 Pro is a surprisingly good fit for me

Perfectly put. It's not a trailblazer but the joys of it's consistency and simplicity sneak up on you.

 

[Cheebsy]

@PPN out of interest, do you know the power rating of the heater please?

 

[Petetbay]

The main concern is going to be particulate exposure as many types of ceramic materials are prone to gradual degradation and surface wear.

Ceramic used in the vapor path is basically inert as glass, if you’re talking bowls you might have a possible argument about degradation or surface wear, ceramic bowls are pretty common and probably safer than metals imo. Any microscopic particulate will most likely get stuck in the thin film of reclaim that coats the vapor path in the mp when vapor changes direction, at least that’s the theory S&B use for their certified medical devices.

 

[Robert-in-YEG]

I've created a resource page for this vape.

XMax V3 Pro Model Overview (December 2021)

The Xmax V3 Pro is a 100% conduction session/on-demand convection vaporizer, used for both dry herbs and concentrates. powered by an 18650 battery. With a single power button, two buttons for precise temperature control, and haptic feedback, the...

fuckcombustion.com

Let me know if anything should be added/revised. Note --> this should be information only, it is not a review.

My thought is to have a source of information that is easy to refer to. There are the specs, links to the manual, etc. It would be nice to have reliable trusted information, easily available for reference.

Robert-in-YEG

 

[thunderstealer1337]

You are supposed to thoroughly rinse the iso off the parts with water and dry them before re-using them.

Had a jet lighter body crack from iso on my hands(I think it was acrylic as mentioned above), it also dissolved some rubber coating off another vape the same way...
I bet Xmax is working on a solution to the loosey-goosey magnets as we speak.
I prefer the Xmax WPA over the Fury2...bigger ovens, I also doubt we will see an all-glass variant as glass tolerances are usually all over the shop and caused HR a lot of headaches. with their tolerances.

Edit, the instructions are clear, it says more than once how to clean the plastic part...soap and water...all parts in iso except plastic mouthpiece...seems clear to me

Lol you want to argue your own narrative go ahead.

The manual is not clear at all, nowhere does it say the mouthpiece cannot touch iso.

Please show me in their manual, it says for deep cleaning do not submerge in iso. But where does it state what your saying iso cannot be used on it.....

Please help me understand why you are fighting so hard over a $10 mouthpiece when I've now experienced 2 failures - that maybe related to each other but iso is not the root cause that you keep pounding here.

In other words, the jibberish you keep spouting of me putting iso is the cause of the issue is hilarious - this is $10 piece from the mfg.

Lol

 

[LesPlenty]

Here are 2 underlined spots where it states to not use iso on the plastic mouthpiece,

If you cannot understand that, English must be a third language.
I am just trying to figure out and get to the bottom of why a handful of units out of thousands sold are having troubles that I and many others have not had so we can all avoid that pitfall.

 

[Petetbay]

It says for deep cleaning put everything except the plastic in iso for 10-20 minutes I’m guessing that includes the silicone. I don’t think that’s good. You can wipe it with iso pad or qtip and rinse with water, no soaking, that’s bad.

 

[LesPlenty]

You can wipe it with iso pad or qtip and rinse with water, no soaking, that’s bad.

I better stop doing it then.
If I had a spare silicone part I could weigh it then soak in new iso for a week then check the weight and see if the iso is discoloured at all...anyone with a fucked mouthpiece want to do an experiment for us?
I usually soak the Xmax Ace silicone in iso as it gets very stinky, no visible problems there...yet!

 

[androponic]

i have always cleaned silicone parts, gaskets, orings, etc with a quick iso dip/wipedown but i have always known that more rigid plastic surfaces and iso dont mix. years ago i cleaned an abs car radio install kit with it and it turned it hazy white film on it and made the plastic almost change composition almost immediately, made it super brittle. never again.

 

[vapviking]

I wonder why the plastic in mp is not more like the stuff Might/Crafty cooling units are molded from. That stuff can be iso soaked. I think it's called PEET?

 

[thunderstealer1337]

If you cannot understand that, English must be a third language. Nice personal attack.... you cant comprehend the complete sentence.
I am just trying to figure out and get to the bottom of why a handful of units out of thousands sold are having troubles that I and many others have not had so we can all avoid that pitfall. - nothing is perfect in this world,

Lol im not sure if you read the complete sentence, where does it say the mouthpiece cannot touch iso......its not written anywhere, stop reaching lol

I said I wipe it down and do not "immerse" it in iso if we want to use the terminology in their manual. So why do I have to keep explaining this over and over to you that nowhere does it say the mouthpiece cannot touch iso.

You underlining "mouthpiece" means nothing....

You underlining the point of "soap and water".... It still does not say it cannot touch iso.

You underlining "except plastic mouthpiece"....still does not say it cannot touch iso.

Somehow you interpret "immerse all pieces except plastic mouthpiece" as it just cant touch iso..... it literally says do not immerse, again where does it say it cannot touch iso?

Here is what the definition of "immerse"

Definition of IMMERSE

to plunge into something that surrounds or covers; especially : to plunge or dip into a fluid; engross, absorb; to baptize by immersion… See the full definition

www.merriam-webster.com

1: to plunge into something that surrounds or coversespecially : to plunge or dip into a fluid
2: ENGROSS, ABSORBcompletely immersed in his work
3: to baptize by immersion

why do you reach so far for a $10 mouthpiece lol it cannot touch iso , your interpretation is why I said the manual needs clarifying, but you wanna be you and argue your narrative again over and over again

I think I already found the root cause, the magnet fell out, ppl reinsert the magnet via various methods and then get their mouthpiece cracking, again most likely from the weakest points of the injection molds - around the 90 degree bends.

Yet you still want to say I caused it via the use of iso and we still looking for a reason lolol vs the thousands and thousands out there..... I can tell you have never worked in mfg and think everything is perfect once its in the consumers hands.

Here are your 2 underlined spots where it states to not use iso on the plastic mouthpiece, -not written anywhere in the manual and my explanation of why the manual needs to be re-written for clarification.

 

[LesPlenty]

more like the stuff Might/Crafty cooling units are molded from.

Took the words right out of my mouth!
I would rather pay a few dollars more for that plastic (PEEK from what I can find) as I do like the 'recorder' type mouthpiece for pocketability and normal use.
Edit,

Maybe we need this over the pic of the plastic mouthpiece to make it more clear,

 

[thunderstealer1337]

Mouthpieces aren't cracking cause the missing magnet but cause the ISO used to clean ( which is the cause of the magnet's fall, glue was disolved by ISO)

If this is true, then why does my wedge in piece of tape still have the residue on it, sounds like you are pointing that the "use of iso to wipedown not immerse is the cause of this problem"

Maybe not enough glue was put into one of the cavities, since if I did immerse it for such a time where it dissolved the glue why is the other magnet still glued in?

Maybe the wedge in piece of tape expanded the magnets cavity to the point where the defects in your mold now show their heads, I doubt you have simulated heated and cooled mouthpiece with mouthpiece magnet insertion/removals over hundreds and hundreds of times under stressed/heated up plastic with a unknown cavity enlargement from the wedge of a article into the magnet cavity.

this is hilarious for $10 mouthpiece, literally want to buy a $10 piece submerge it in iso and be like it works fine lol - watch it instantly crack .... buy another one pull out a magnet, wedge in a piece of tape in and run it like that and see if it cracks.