Multi-brand Xmax V3Pro vaporizer, convection, on-demand&session.

mucsusn

60 going on 20
I can get charred.

High temp, start out slow, and l o n g d r a w. The longer, the hotter it gets.

This is true even at 375 f. Not the charred, but the longer the draw, the hotter it gets.
A good long draw on 375 makes for great cloud for first draw.
David
That makes sense…I’ve been thinking about one of these, ’cause it reminds me of my POTV Ones in a different form factor, but with a much better battery component. I start my One at 365 F, and turn off while I’m drawing (initiating a cooldown). Bump to 385 for the next one, 405 for the third and finish off with 430. Would I be able to replicate that ritual with the V3, or would it require me to approach from a different perspective?
 

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Hmm, need an up+up+down+down+pwr hack to enable full battle mode. Maybe if there was a legit but unofficial way for enthusiasts to hack the top temp without disrupting the combustion safe vape experience for others?
Nice idea for the next version ,(Xmax v3 GigaUltraPro) ,lol. Correct me if i am wrong but all of topgreen products so far dont have the software update option,so it is what it is ,unless they add this option for future production.
Until then alternatively one can stick it in the oven at 230 and vape while it is hot or maybe point a heatgun set above that temp to the intake holes and inhale the stream.
 
Last edited:

Sativapo

Well-Known Member
I have some experience with vapes ( you can see what I own) and my abv, after a second session in max temp when I get absolutely nothing more after like 15 second draws (tried everything slow / fast/ half slow/halffast), is beetween dark yellow and light brown. I bought some Fury edge capsules that are completely useless with it. I would really love a firmware upgrade, otherwise I'll sell at least the second device I bought for my wife. It's a shame because I think that except that temp limitation it's near perfect...
 
Last edited:

Mrjamminsalmon

Active Member
Hello everyone, I hope you’re all having a great day. Absolutely in love with my v3, performance and build quality for the price is incredible. I was wondering if anyone could recommend a battery to purchase as a spare? I’m not massively familiar with battery stats so don’t wish to purchase the wrong one. I have quite a few Sony vtc5a batteries that I use for my firewood 7, will these also be fine in the xmax v3? I’m UK based and have used fogstar in the past as they are a very reputable seller. Thank you in advance for your help.
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
Is the heating element a common ecig coil type design which causes varying performance based on differing resistance of the stock coil? That’s pretty common and could explain different performance at the same temps across multiple units.
 

Thunderbelch

Well-Known Member
Is the heating element a common ecig coil type design which causes varying performance based on differing resistance of the stock coil? That’s pretty common and could explain different performance at the same temps across multiple units.
That is doubtful since they use a Kanthal coil, which is not temperature control compatible. They most likely have an actual temperature sensor above the coil.

@MostWasted Did you try it with the intake holes mostly covered like some users have done?
 

Sativapo

Well-Known Member
@PPN Could you ask topgreen if software upgrade is technicly possible ? They could have the limited version for mass consumption and a little upgrade for the loyal FC advanced vaporists for example :brow:... I guess i's not a big change in the software to raise max temp a bit
 

kimura

Well-Known Member
Sounds like there may be some variance with these units. My AVB is getting milk chocolate brown at 375*F with reasonably long and steady (hello convection) draws. Really happy with this device so far. Seems like a solid pocket portable option.
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
That is doubtful since they use a Kanthal coil, which is not temperature control compatible. They most likely have an actual temperature sensor above the coil.

@MostWasted Did you try it with the intake holes mostly covered like some users have done?

Yeah but Kanthal has a known resistance curve and the display numbers could just be arbitrary to reflect that like many devices. At least that’s how the Pax Era and others works.

Id be more doubtful that a $100 vape had a discrete thermocouple, but maybe? The Tafee Bowle does, but IME most don’t.

If it had a real thermocouple probing the air temp, I wouldn’t expect people to be able to get bigger hits covering an air inlet hole, cause the electronics would try and compensate.
 

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Yeah but Kanthal has a known resistance curve and the display numbers could just be arbitrary to reflect that like many devices. At least that’s how the Pax Era and others works.

Id be more doubtful that a $100 vape had a discrete thermocouple, but maybe? The Tafee Bowle does, but IME most don’t.

If it had a real thermocouple probing the air temp, I wouldn’t expect people to be able to get bigger hits covering an air inlet hole, cause the electronics would try and compensate.
There might be a scenario where the heater is too underpowered to compensate on the draw ,even though it is temp controlled. I dont have unit but maybe someone should check if the temp drops while hitting it.
 
That is doubtful since they use a Kanthal coil, which is not temperature control compatible. They most likely have an actual temperature sensor above the coil.

@MostWasted Did you try it with the intake holes mostly covered like some users have done?
I have the device a couple of weeks now, and tried a couple of different things and approaches to get it "hotter" I tried with the intake holes mostly covered, left 2 rows on each side uncovered while the rest was taped, the result is always the same, no matter what I try. The temperature bump is the only thing I could think of that would make the avb darker.
 

cliffhanger1

Well-Known Member
you could always try the second unit and see how it performs but that will hurt resale value if you want to go down that road
@Dapreez it think the same aht Bad Dog says.

If your other device makes other results i think there have to be something wrong which your device.
But you have gaurantee or?
I have 2 devices too and both works the same. "1st" and 2nd generation with buzz in both modus.
 

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
@Dapreez it think the same aht Bad Dog says.

If your other device makes other results i think there have to be something wrong which your device.
But you have gaurantee or?
I have 2 devices too and both works the same. "1st" and 2nd generation with buzz in both modus.
Did you try different batteries? What brand and capacity are you using ? (Sry if it is asked already)
 

CatchDoubleDuece

Well-Known Member
Regarding the AVB, I get mixed results with my unit which I believe is 1st gen (no buzz in OD mode) and I think it really depends on the material consumed as a big factor.

I have an assortment of varying material ranging from dank squishy nugs to brittle and the more brittle the darker the result...and some of the more "pretty" recently cured flower sometimes comes back w/ a slightly green hue even though there is no more visible vapor production after getting 5-6 decent rips. Drop it in a vapcap and I get a half hit popcorn flavored cloud so I consider this stuff done and toss it in the AVB jar.

So far in my experience, the hue of the result is all dependent on 1) the condition of the flower, 2) it's grind, 3) the V3Pro's temp, 4) the length of each draw, 5) which holes I cover and uncover, 6) how long my sesh is overall and 7) ambient temperatures. Probably many more factors but these seem the most obvious to explain the varied results reported here.

My prefs:
-medium grind
-220c - yep, all the way up and flavor is still amazing
-8-12sec draws (sometimes at 12 I'm literally about to burst)
-cover 3/4 holes initial 4-5 seconds (feathering), then uncover and hard draw for biggest hits
-always finish that bowl!

On an entirely different note, one concern I haven't seen mentioned is back flow from using a WPA. I know some rigs tend to cause a bit of back flow just pulling away from the mouthpiece or whip and it could be easy to damage a unit if water were to flow back into the cap and further into the mechanics. Outside of being suuuper careful, what are some other ways this can be mitigated?
 
Top Bottom