Sour Dream
Blue Dream enthusiast
I used 1/4 ID and it definitely restricts the draw some but the length of the tubing also has a similar effect if you make it too long
Whip Tubing - All Your Questions Answered!
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RustyOldNail
SEARCH for the treasure...
Since the question of using isopropyl Alcohol and silicone hoses comes up a lot, I thought I’d add a quote that I just read. This is specifically about medical grade silicone. I’ve learned there are a lot of TYPES of silicone tubing, their chemical makeup and how it’s cured. But basically, most high end QUALITY silicone can handle ISO, as well as a BOILING water bath.
QUOTE FROM WEB PAGE:
“I just wanted to share something with everyone, and I hope it helps. Like many people here, I’ve been REALLY curious about gathering some facts on proper care of medical grade silicone. So I decided to turn to someone who works with this material regularly-- and ask them their professional opinion. I have forwarded the below letter to the head of a custom medical grade silicone molding company (they take custom moldings from hospitals for patients, and create artificial body parts of various kinds), and he sent me his reply.
Here is the company I contacted:
“ASC Applied Silicone Corporation” SILICONESALES@APPLIEDSILICONE.COM
Here is the letter I wrote:
Dear Richard,
I was wondering if you could help me. I have a question about medical grade silicone-- Are there any sterilizing/cleaning solutions or lubricants that can damage it? I ask because I’m part of an online support community of people who use “menstrual cups”-- small, flexible cups made of medical grade silicone, that are worn internally, to collect menstrual fluid, rather than absorbing it. The manufacturers recommend that during use, we should wash them daily with mild, perfume-free soap. Then sterilize by boiling for 5 minutes. Some of the companies forbid most sterilizing solutions, claiming they damage the silicone. But many of us aren’t sure what to believe on this matter. Especially when it comes to things like rubbing alcohol, peroxide, oil-based lubricants, etc. We wonder if the company’s recommendations are meant to increase sales of their special “cup wash” or to make our cups discolor faster, so we buy new ones more often. Could you (or someone you are associated with) please help to shed some light on this subject?
Thank you in advance-- Melissa
And here is what he had to say:
Dear Melissa,
My background consists of 30 years as a Research and Development Engineer involved in the development of silicone elastomers and implantable silicone devices. I agree with the manufacturers recommendations for cleaning the silicone cups. Silicone has poor resistance to acids and bases found in sterilizing solutions and hydrogen peroxide. I have personal knowledge of silicone degradation caused by beta dyne solutions commonly used as a micro biocide in surgery. Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) can cause slight temporary swelling of the silicone, but as long as it is allowed to evaporate completely it will not deteriorate silicone. Oil based lubricants can swell/permeate the silicone and may not readily evaporate and can cause a loss in physical properties. My main concern with oil based lubricants would be biocompatibility in such a sensitive tissue environment.
Best Regards,
Richard Dumas
Director of Technical Service
Applied Silicone Corporation
270 Quail Court, Santa Paula, CA 93060 USA
Email Address: (removed for his online privacy, send me a private message, if you feel you need to speak to him)”
——- END OF QUOTE————-
QUOTE FROM WEB PAGE:
“I just wanted to share something with everyone, and I hope it helps. Like many people here, I’ve been REALLY curious about gathering some facts on proper care of medical grade silicone. So I decided to turn to someone who works with this material regularly-- and ask them their professional opinion. I have forwarded the below letter to the head of a custom medical grade silicone molding company (they take custom moldings from hospitals for patients, and create artificial body parts of various kinds), and he sent me his reply.
Here is the company I contacted:
“ASC Applied Silicone Corporation” SILICONESALES@APPLIEDSILICONE.COM
Here is the letter I wrote:
Dear Richard,
I was wondering if you could help me. I have a question about medical grade silicone-- Are there any sterilizing/cleaning solutions or lubricants that can damage it? I ask because I’m part of an online support community of people who use “menstrual cups”-- small, flexible cups made of medical grade silicone, that are worn internally, to collect menstrual fluid, rather than absorbing it. The manufacturers recommend that during use, we should wash them daily with mild, perfume-free soap. Then sterilize by boiling for 5 minutes. Some of the companies forbid most sterilizing solutions, claiming they damage the silicone. But many of us aren’t sure what to believe on this matter. Especially when it comes to things like rubbing alcohol, peroxide, oil-based lubricants, etc. We wonder if the company’s recommendations are meant to increase sales of their special “cup wash” or to make our cups discolor faster, so we buy new ones more often. Could you (or someone you are associated with) please help to shed some light on this subject?
Thank you in advance-- Melissa
And here is what he had to say:
Dear Melissa,
My background consists of 30 years as a Research and Development Engineer involved in the development of silicone elastomers and implantable silicone devices. I agree with the manufacturers recommendations for cleaning the silicone cups. Silicone has poor resistance to acids and bases found in sterilizing solutions and hydrogen peroxide. I have personal knowledge of silicone degradation caused by beta dyne solutions commonly used as a micro biocide in surgery. Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) can cause slight temporary swelling of the silicone, but as long as it is allowed to evaporate completely it will not deteriorate silicone. Oil based lubricants can swell/permeate the silicone and may not readily evaporate and can cause a loss in physical properties. My main concern with oil based lubricants would be biocompatibility in such a sensitive tissue environment.
Best Regards,
Richard Dumas
Director of Technical Service
Applied Silicone Corporation
270 Quail Court, Santa Paula, CA 93060 USA
Email Address: (removed for his online privacy, send me a private message, if you feel you need to speak to him)”
——- END OF QUOTE————-
We just need to figure out how to make the whip out of hemp! 
CurryLeafTreehugger
Well-Known Member
Well that's great for those who want to clean with isopropyl alcohol.
But those of us who prefer Tuaca are still sort of left to go by guess and by golly ....
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RustyOldNail
SEARCH for the treasure...
Well that's great for those who want to clean with isopropyl alcohol.
But those of us who prefer Tuaca are still sort of left to go by guess and by golly ....
I actually use SIMPLE GREEN CRYSTAL, as well as boiling water. It’s just nice to know how you can use ISO, depending on the type and quality of the silicone.
howie105
Well-Known Member
Is it as smell free as they claim? The Simple Green I picked up locally cleaned very well, but the smell lingered till I went back and did a couple of ISO cleanings. TIA
CurryLeafTreehugger
Well-Known Member
RustyOldNail
SEARCH for the treasure...
I have not tasted anything using the SG CRYSTAL, as it does not add “fragrances”. I use it on all my glass rigs as well, and on a 30mm sapphire dab dish, the baked on reclaim, lifts off with a soaking. Now and then I use PBW for glass, have not tried it on a silicone hose yet.
I believe the KEY, is running HOT water through the hose as the final step. I put a quick connect on my sink, which has very hot water. I use older silicone hoses, that QC right to the sink spout, and use a variety of glass connectors to pump clean hot water through rigs, and tubes.
Silicone CAN absorb flavors. I bought a brand new “CamelBak” drinking container. I put the removable SILICONE mouthpiece in a Pyrex measuring cup, and squirted some DAWN dish detergent in, let it soak.......
Took me days, and baking soda, to get rid of the TASTE of dawn. Next time I experience any off taste, I’ll BOIL my silicone.
howie105
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your insights, never thought about a QC. Look out Lowes here we go again.
RustyOldNail
SEARCH for the treasure...
The key is adapting to a “hose barb”, one part of the QC replaces the screen cap on your sink spout, but by eye you can’t even tell. Make sure you match the INNER threads on the spout, to the QC adapter. A plumbing supply can be a source as well. Here are some photos. The LARGE hose, just has a rubber end, to which I can shove odd sizes into, the thin hose has a 14mm make glass joint. I usually do 5 minute HOT rinses at max pressure for my rinsing.
Thanks. Ich checked brewing stores. They got a lot of different silicone tubing at a reasonable price. But unfortunately not the 2 x 7 mm which I need for my whip adapter and mouthpiece.
That's the tubing which I have right now and where I was hoping to find a cheaper replacement. Wanted to order than directly 10m.
Green Kiwi
Well-Known Member
Till my utterly surprise.....whips from S&B last forever; if you want.
I thought Whips would get brittle ,or nasty smelling, but in my case using the whip exclusively whit the Obsidian,the opposite is true imho.
there is no plant material or oil that sticks to the wall of the whip going tru ,that all stays in the obsidian(wonderfull reclaim machine it is
)
And the whip always stays cold during use with the Obsidian, now here comes my question:why does the whip in 9 months of usage (around an ounce a week.)has become S&B orange??
I mean dry = hot plus particles , I would understand totally , but this I find weird. is it acids in the vapour ???
I have no clue, I am sure there are informed enough members on here to answer my question.
Thank you for your reply in advance, Green Kiwi.
I thought Whips would get brittle ,or nasty smelling, but in my case using the whip exclusively whit the Obsidian,the opposite is true imho.
there is no plant material or oil that sticks to the wall of the whip going tru ,that all stays in the obsidian(wonderfull reclaim machine it is
)And the whip always stays cold during use with the Obsidian, now here comes my question:why does the whip in 9 months of usage (around an ounce a week.)has become S&B orange??
I mean dry = hot plus particles , I would understand totally , but this I find weird. is it acids in the vapour ???
I have no clue, I am sure there are informed enough members on here to answer my question.
Thank you for your reply in advance, Green Kiwi.
Ramahs
Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
That's the oil/reclaim you said wasn't sticking to the sides. It's right there stuck to the sides.
Those hoses are cheap and not worth attempting to clean.
(The stuff soaks in. You won't be able to get it clean.)
Replace the hose when it gets dirty like that.
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Fancy Ant
New Member
Is there a loss of active ingredient if we use a wide whip or a longer one? I'm inclined to believe so, but might be negligible maybe?
I got one for shisha (aka hookah) and it comes with a glass mouth piece. It's much wider in diameter (approx. 11 mm or 0.43 inches) than the one I used to have, but still fits fine. Also a bit longer but I could still shorten it.
Gonna try it out later today. Here's a pic: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61Yvb2G7nGL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
I got one for shisha (aka hookah) and it comes with a glass mouth piece. It's much wider in diameter (approx. 11 mm or 0.43 inches) than the one I used to have, but still fits fine. Also a bit longer but I could still shorten it.
Gonna try it out later today. Here's a pic: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61Yvb2G7nGL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
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howie105
Well-Known Member
Give a long glass stem some consideration, like most good glass pieces they can be taste neutral and do a decent job at cooling. I like to pair a 9.5" LSV wand and a 2.5" globe with an adapter. Only downside is it is nice glass and I kill nice glass, sniff whine.
Got a pic of the pieces hooked up to a Buddha.
Got a pic of the pieces hooked up to a Buddha.
Fancy Ant
New Member
This worked nicely and the hits are feeling nice and cool. There's less draw resistance (had a narrow whip before), and the vapor is very smooth. Just takes a big chunk of the flavor if one doesnt mind. Very easy to share and looks cool imo. It even fit my glass natively (Dhgate D20 bubbler). It was only about 15 €. If any one wants the same, use Google Images Reverse Search to find it. I don't want to advertise too much.
Madri-Gal
Child Of The Revolution
I use a GRAV Upline Taster Chillum as a mouthpiece for Volcano hybrid. The whip fits in the end, and you have a filtered mouthpiece made of Boro. I ordered another one yesterday for $11, so they aren't expensive.
rizlafreak
two dog star
I will share my upcomings for anyone having the same issue on search for (glass) mouthpiece.
For dry herb on the ehle tower i use: https://speedyb2b.com/product/marley-natural-black-glass-tips-6ct/
gives extra circulation, quite nice universal MP. it's so lightweight, when it drops it hardly breaks any thicker glass.
then they're cheap, well made and works great but only has low draught and with concentrates this will clog.
And like others did it beforehand, a carp cap does work well on my 'water filter dab rig'. But look for a big diameter as possible.
I have this one in multicolor, very nice and well made for the price, just amazing:
The diameter of the restrictive section would optimally be a fraction larger.
another option of course should be the arizer glass MP, it should have the best airflow.
For dry herb on the ehle tower i use: https://speedyb2b.com/product/marley-natural-black-glass-tips-6ct/
gives extra circulation, quite nice universal MP. it's so lightweight, when it drops it hardly breaks any thicker glass.
then they're cheap, well made and works great but only has low draught and with concentrates this will clog.
And like others did it beforehand, a carp cap does work well on my 'water filter dab rig'. But look for a big diameter as possible.
I have this one in multicolor, very nice and well made for the price, just amazing:
The diameter of the restrictive section would optimally be a fraction larger.
another option of course should be the arizer glass MP, it should have the best airflow.
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