t-dub
Vapor Sloth
Looks like that the fan's exhaust port is on top of the unit and that connects to the intake on the tube.why is there a metal plate in front of the fan?
Looks like that the fan's exhaust port is on top of the unit and that connects to the intake on the tube.why is there a metal plate in front of the fan?
why is there a metal plate in front of the fan?
Some questions for you
1)What type of adapter are you using. I get the 14/18mm adapter but are you using one of the hose adapters like SSV makes or similar styles like glassblowersdirect has?
Because before i had one of those adapters i tried sticking just the hose into my joint and didnt get good results. Also if it is a hose adapter, depending on the angle make sure the tubing isnt bent/cuting off anywhere because that could also limit vapor production
2) Also by not seeing visible vapor, do you mean in you zob piece when your inhaling or when you are exhaling?
Im assuming you mean when you exhale or you wouldnt have a problem but anyway most of the time Its difficult for me to tell theres any vapor in the bubbler until i exhale.
3) have you tried anything else with water besides your zob? I doubt the zob is the problem though.
Like i already mentioned, it seems like you may have an issue with the heating element. Especially if your starting out at 374F and ending at over 400F. The main component of what your vaporizing starts to combust at around 392F so if your going over 400 and still getting light brown ABV it is definetly an issue with your heating element and i would suggest contacting vaporfection. If you do end up needing to get it fixed, Without the 24hr warranty expect about a 10 day service time ( once they recieve it you should have it back within a week-10 days)
EDIT: if you have one of those laser/IR thermometers it might be worthwhile to check the temperature of the air coming out before you contact vaporfection or send it out.
Mud, I just got my IR/Laser thermometer from amazon.com
It is a relatively inexpensive HDE H87 model but is supposed to be accurate within +/- 2%.
I set it to measure farenheit, turned on the vV2 and let it heat up to the default temperature of 374f. Once the blue light illuminated I pointed the laser thermometer directly into the herb chamber
opening on the front of the vV2, pointing at the screen inside.
The HIGHEST temperature that I recorded was ~125f, FAR from the suggested 374f.
I changed the vV2 to 410f and saw just a slight increase on the thermometer.
I put an empty herb chamber into the vV2 and measured various locations on the glass chamber, including the hot air that was exiting from the chamber. Same results.
Just for grins I shot the laser at a 150w light bulb and got a reading of 442f.
I then measured the temperature of the air conditioning vent in the ceiling. It was 76.
I turned on the air conditioner and set it to 75f. Shooting directly into the air vents I get readings in the 50's-60's, as it cools off the room.
For even more grins, thrills and chills, I turned on my PAX and set it to the highest setting (410f I think).
I took the lid off the PAX oven and measured the screen. It was ~135f.
I took the screen out and pointed the laser down the metal air tube.
I got a reading of ~140f.
This leads me to question the validity of this test.
Do you (or anybody else on this board) have a IR/Laser thermometer to check your vV2 for readings?
A PAX owner with an IR/Laser thermometer can chime in as well with your readings, or any type of vape for that matter.
I would hate to send in my vV2 and be without it for 10 days, based on bogus assumptions on my part.
UnixRasta said:This leads me to question the validity of this test.
My IR thermometer will be here Thursday and I will let you know my results. I also ordered the HDE it was around 22 bucks. I also own a PAX as well. Although I do not like the PAX and never use it. I will take a few temperature samplings and let you know what I get but it seems pretty obvious the unit needs to go back.
i had the same problem ... i never had much success using my IR thermometer for my vape measurements. i decided figuring out how to adjust the emissivity was too much of a hassle, compared to just getting some BBQ thermometers and using contact measurements.
UnixRasta said:Hippie, are you saying that your readings were not as expected when you used your IR thermometer either? So your measurements were way off also? What were the results with your BBQ thermometer, were they more accurate?
Yes, not as expected and appeared to be way off -- say 175°F instead of 380°F. i don't have a way to really know what the temperature is, so i just take the BBQ thermometer as gospel. Contact beats IR, unless the IR is calibrated for the specific material.
There is an exhaust port at the top with a small hood that the high speed blower pushes air into. On that note BE EVER SO CAREFUL about the blower when you re-assemble the unit. It is simple to over-tighten the screws, and then the blower will no longer attach to the vent tube properly, and then you will need a new blower. Also over-tightening the blower can cause the corner plastic "bits" on the blower to crack off, drop inside of the blower, jamming the blower, and spewing burnt electrical flavor through the unit (thank goodness airpath is glass!). On that note, if you ever power the unit up and do not hear the blower start to turn, power it off immediately. Also, DO NOT EVER hit the blower with compressed air. It will break blades off of the blower. Yes, the blower is fragile. I am glad that SWIM took the liberty to post those pictures. T1 and T2 (on the LCD side of the PCB are momentary contact points.. Be careful with that blower. I cannot over-emphasize how easy it is to damage it, and it is a relatively expensive little blower. On that note, how about taking a clean readable shot of the sticker on the blower of yours and posting it? I think its worthwhile to find an alternate source for these blowers, such as Digi-Key.
The fan speed is electronically controlled and the fan is a DC blower. The DC power supply within the unit has a regulated power input and output, so 220 wont make a difference. In an application such as a medication room, or someone that likes theirs to go to 11, the 220v step up makes sense. But it wont vaporize any better or worse.
What WILL make a difference is calibration, and the distance of your herb chamber from the output of the front of the ViVape. If you move the herb further away, obviously temperature fluctuations are more likely to occur.
The only real way to tell whats wrong is to have the unit serviced. From what you are describing it sounds like an issue to me.. I have def. seen units that the element would partially heat. This is actually quite common, and in the first run of ViVapes, as has been stated before, there were some elements that were defective.
Less common and rather unlikely would be the need for calibration.
Best I have at the moment.Also, how about a picture of just the circuit board front and back ... pretty please?
I am simply trying to share my experience with this device, and join in on the group. Post some info, read some info and have a good time. It just got a little less fun. I came on here, and was like cool, look! A Vivape forum! Look! theres a few people with broken vapes! Maybe I can help out!
You have NO RIGHT
You have NO RIGHT to question me, my motives or what I have or have not done without facts. So on that note, F off if you dont believe me. I have only tried to contribute positively to this discussion thus far. I dont appreciate being accused.
Ya know, you did a pretty go job of defending yourself and then you blew it with the "Fuck off" comment. Going on the offense like that is a dead give-a-way.
Now regarding your comments of "You have NO RIGHT", and that you "don't appreciate being accused", I'm here to tell ya that I have EVERY right considering how employees passing themselves off as end users have presented themselves not only in this thread, but others as well and while I totally get that you don't appreciate being accused, that is a given. I don't know of anyone who would appreciate that, even if they were guilty, ESPECIALLY if they are guilty of that which that are being accused of.
And VaporEyes is correct. This isn't a personal attack against you. Hell, I don't even know you, but what this IS an attack on, is the marketing tactic of manufacturers doing what you are doing here. This particular company, Vaporfection, has been busted on this practice in the past, and so, when someone comes in here smelling like a duck in the same Vaporfection thread where ducks have tread in the past, than you're gonna have some people sniffin' just a bit harder than usual to find out...........is this really a duck?
So I would suggest to get off of the defensive tact of:
"You have NO RIGHT to question me"
"F off if you dont believe me"
"I dont appreciate being accused."
for that does nothing but further tarnish Vaporfections reputation, which is slowly dwindling away.
For the life of me, I don't understand why companies resort to these tactics, simply because the downside of getting caught doing this, or even the suspicion of a company doing this, far outweighs whatever benefit that they THINK they could garner.
Bob, for the record, it's not only WHAT you said, but how you said it that set off the red flags.
The red flags, Bob, wasn't in your post where you defended yourself, but rather in the post where you described in detail about the inner components of this vape and what specifically should be watched for if one undertakes this effort.
As you can see from my post count, I have been here for a very long time and have seen volumes of posts of qualified people, engineers and such, describing various vapes and their internal workings, and to me, it is very easy to tell when one is coming from the point of view as an end user or if one is coming from the point of view of the manufacturer. YOU are coming from the point of view of a manufacturer, and to me, that's obvious.
One of the reason why it's so obvious is because I've been in the marketing/advertising/sales game for decades. I wrote ad copy and it was my job to entice potential customers to come into our stores with them realizing that they are being enticed. As a sales trainer, I trained my sales managers how to sell without the customer realizing that they are being sold. If a customer feels, or even has an inkling, that they are being sold something by the salesman, than the salesman has failed to do his/her job, even if they were successful in selling the product. So..........in this context, I am an expert. In just about all others..........I am not.
If I HAD been a corporate shill why would I want to hide?
I have no interest in "helping" them, or at this point even caring about their "reputation" -
It's a squirrel cage fan so the air is flowing out the top edge.why is there a metal plate in front of the fan?
Damn looks like vapeworld stopped selling the vivape. Missed my chance to get it for $289 but my original is still going strong so I cant complain
Yeah but they charge $60 shipping, vapeworld had free shipping. I was only thinking about getting it as a back up because i thought $289 was a steal. But they dont have it anymore so I thats no longer an option and i just got mine fixed so its like brand new anywayIt looks like the vV2 is still available for $299 directly from vaporfection.