Vapman

[hoyo77]

Just got this from @Ed's TnT my second vapman stem from my man!!!
https://ibb.co/7VJjGS3 tulip wood
https://ibb.co/8c0Y6nm first stem he made for me..aboyna burl i think

17-B8-E644-C326-4039-9258-08-D560000271 hosted at ImgBB

Image 17-B8-E644-C326-4039-9258-08-D560000271 in Stem album

ibb.co

 

[Ed's TnT]

Just got this from @Ed's TnT my second vapman stem from my man!!!
https://ibb.co/7VJjGS3 tulip wood
https://ibb.co/8c0Y6nm first stem he made for me..aboyna burl i think

17-B8-E644-C326-4039-9258-08-D560000271 hosted at ImgBB

Image 17-B8-E644-C326-4039-9258-08-D560000271 in Stem album

ibb.co

My man was a pleasure working with you as always is. Good to see the newer one next to the way way back one I did for you.

I dont think its Amboyna though, looks like a blown wood best I cant tell.

Appreciate you bro, wish you well.

 

[StringTheorista]

Hey vapman hive mind...has anyone ever used a bamboo straw as a stem? I’ve whittled one that will fit, but not sure if there’s some reason vaping through bamboo is not a good idea... Appreciate any knowledge

 

[Gourmet]

I had a bamboo bong about 300 years ago when I was a young man, it worked perfectly.

Bamboo is botanically a grass (so, it's also a weed, isn't it?) and is generally considered non-toxic (except maybe the seeds & sprouts of a few species, as you can read on bamboo pages).

So I personally see no reason why bamboo should not be used and I think this is a great idea!

(If not, I am also thankful for clarification.)

 

[OF]

Bamboo is botanically a grass (so, it's also a weed, isn't it?) and is generally considered non-toxic (except maybe the seeds & sprouts of a few species, you can read on bamboo pages).

So I personally see no reason why bamboo should not be used and I think this is a great idea!

Great, @StringTheorista, there's your advice. And from a truly wise guy.......

Just in case it turns out to be bad advice, can @Gourmet and I split your other vapes?

OF

 

[StringTheorista]

Thanks @Gourmet! Will now commence testing of extra long stem. The only tricky part of this was finding a straw that was about the right diameter. Also, I’m going to import from my dynavap bag of tricks, and put a small ball of hemp fiber in the body below the stem to filter small particles.

I also made this stem from indeterminate wood scrap I had.

 

[Gourmet]

I have spared no expense and effort to do justice to my joy of discovery.

So, in the endless vastness of my mini workshop I found a thin bamboo stick with exactly the diameter of the mouthpiece (7mm / 0.28"). Shortly drilled out with a 3mm drill from both sides and I had my first longer stem. Was quite ok.



Only the Sandpaper is missing on the photo of the highly specialized tools specially selected for this particular hard job.


The rocket is on its way



has landed




Tasted the holy vapman blood (means sawdust, I learned the tube should be blown out first )
I also pulled out the 4mm drill and made a 125mm / 5" long stem.

Of course the bamboo cracked and the stem was leaking.
Quick repair with duct tape? No, that would be an unforgivable sacrilege!
So the good old hemp cord was used to make it work again.



I discovered I have to train my jaw muscles to compensate for the longer lever moment
to hold the vapman only with the teeth.


But also hold it almost like a pen, it is very comfortable and has a certain elegance.
...at least I'm imagining it after the 4th pan with fine herbs...

....and of course only for the sake of science in vapmanology!


Draw behaviour:
-A little more draw resistance, it helps to pull more slowly, which can be desirable with the vapman
-Impression of slightly cooler vapor
-The airway seems to be aroma-neutral
-It's fun to experiment with and without the ventilation holes


(the hemp twine is quite pleasant to the touch)

Now I would like to find someone who can make such a bamboo grow with the bow swing of a hobbit pipe.


Thanks to @StringTheorista for this nice idea!




And by the way a big special thank you to the whole team, which made it possible for us to be here!
( @Stu maybe you can forward the thanks to all involved!)

 

[OF]

I have spared no expense and effort to do justice to my joy of discovery.

So, in the endless vastness of my mini workshop I found a thin bamboo stick with exactly the diameter of the mouthpiece (7mm / 0.28"). Shortly drilled out with a 3mm drill from both sides and I had my first longer stem. Was quite ok.

Very impressive. It takes a steady hand to drill such a hole 'freehand'. A couple of thoughts come to mind you might consider. First, the classic way of making things like sword scabbards from wood is to split the piece from end to end, hog out a passage (to fit the blade profile for instance) then glue it back together. This is how curved blades like on Samurai Katinas are done. Some were made of leather, of course, but the classic ones are wood. I'm sure a suitable 'glue' can be found. Even something like high temperature paint?

Secondly you should be able to chuck the stem in yon electric drill and using the not pictured sandpaper taper the end to match the bore in the center section.

Good stuff.

Regards to all.

OF

 

[Bioboni]

With the right drawing technique or the right tweak to your vapman (increasing airhole size),
you can cool down the vapor pretty well.


Lately when using the vapman on trips, I've been inhaling air from the side of the mouth right next to the mouthpiece,
at the same time as inhaling vapor from the mouthpiece.

This is an effective way of cooling the vapor without needing to physically increase size of the airholes.
So with the to harsh/hot vape being fixed...

The Only thing that worries me a bit is inhalation of small particles plantmatter; but for this is i use a vapman screen on top
of the grounded buds.. and also hold my tongue in front of the mouthpiece while inhaling.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
At home I like to use my vapman wirh a ashcatcher being used as a mini bong. (see pic)
It's more comfortable to draw from than from a normal bong due to thin tubing...


https://ibb.co/tJcLrZb
See pic for "new ways" double bubble ashcatcher I use (Black leaf has their own ashcatchers that look very similar).

When the vapman is upside down in the bowl,
it's also way less likely to accidentally burn the herb because the herb is not touching the bowl of the vapman directly.

The vapor is much more dense (visible) when exhaled; when using a bong.
And it's quite easy to hold in hand the way it's being shown in the picture.



I'm sure there's more interesting minibongs out there than the ashcatcher i showed here.
A thin thubed minibong that allows for a better grip of holding the vapman while vaping, compared with this ascatcher could be interesting.

Being able to spin the vapman upside down while inhaling also helps with heat distribution while enjoying lower risk of burned buds due the buds not touching the bowl.

 

[Ramahs]

I have spared no expense and effort to do justice to my joy of discovery.

So, in the endless vastness of my mini workshop I found a thin bamboo stick with exactly the diameter of the mouthpiece (7mm / 0.28"). Shortly drilled out with a 3mm drill from both sides and I had my first longer stem. Was quite ok.



Only the Sandpaper is missing on the photo of the highly specialized tools specially selected for this particular hard job.


The rocket is on its way



has landed




Tasted the holy vapman blood (means sawdust, I learned the tube should be blown out first )
I also pulled out the 4mm drill and made a 125mm / 5" long stem.

Of course the bamboo cracked and the stem was leaking.
Quick repair with duct tape? No, that would be an unforgivable sacrilege!
So the good old hemp cord was used to make it work again.



I discovered I have to train my jaw muscles to compensate for the longer lever moment
to hold the vapman only with the teeth.


But also hold it almost like a pen, it is very comfortable and has a certain elegance.
...at least I'm imagining it after the 4th pan with fine herbs...

....and of course only for the sake of science in vapmanology!


Draw behaviour:
-A little more draw resistance, it helps to pull more slowly, which can be desirable with the vapman
-Impression of slightly cooler vapor
-The airway seems to be aroma-neutral
-It's fun to experiment with and without the ventilation holes


(the hemp twine is quite pleasant to the touch)

Now I would like to find someone who can make such a bamboo grow with the bow swing of a hobbit pipe.


Thanks to @StringTheorista for this nice idea!




And by the way a big special thank you to the whole team, which made it possible for us to be here!
( @Stu maybe you can forward the thanks to all involved!)

I think it looks better with the hempwick wrap.

 

[Gourmet]

then glue it back together.

Brain says no and I have to obey.

It takes a steady hand to drill such a hole 'freehand'.

I was also astonished that it did not break into two parts, but only had fine cracks. (vice helped me)
With the hemp cord this was solved quickly, also without glue.

I've been inhaling air from the side of the mouth right next to the mouthpiece,
at the same time as inhaling vapor from the mouthpiece.

This is a very good method and also the functional principle of the ventilation openings in the middle part.

but for this is i use a vapman screen on top
of the grounded buds.. and also hold my tongue in front of the mouthpiece while inhaling.

I do the same, especially with very dry herbs.

I think it looks better with the hempwick wrap.

Hehe, that was also my first thought, even the goal was to make it airtight.
Form and function has always been a good thing.

 

[StringTheorista]

Vgoodiez has some concentrate screens up on their site, FYI

 

[letter never sent]

Vgoodiez has some concentrate screens up on their site, FYI

Thanks - I snagged the last one just now!

 

[Vapenvy]

Also, I’m going to import from my dynavap bag of tricks, and put a small ball of hemp fiber in the body below the stem to filter small particles.

I tried this and found that it caused the middle section to absorb alot of the resin and disclolour very quickly. I had to use acetone to clean it... for the first time, after years of normal use hardly discoloured it at all.
I do use hemp fibre in my vapcaps and air so i would usually advocate for this method but i think vapman needs a different approach. Maybe pu it in the end of the bamboo stem?

Edit- i have pear wood. A hard or dense wood may not absorb resin the same.

 

[cgod]

Has anybody ever tried shatter in the Vapman? I have some concentrates at home and was interested to see anybodys opinion

 

[Bolano]

I've not tried shatter but I went through a dry spell where I was vaping CBD crumble in the vapman. From memory it worked really well. I sandwiched it between two screens and held the vapman vertical when heating.
I'm not sure if that's 100% necessary but I wanted to minimise any leakage onto the bowl/pan.
Regardless, the end result was lots of clouds and no crumble residue left over.

I can't guarantee shatter would be as successful but I can't see why not.

 

[OF]

Has anybody ever tried shatter in the Vapman? I have some concentrates at home and was interested to see anybodys opinion

Yes, lots of us. And other grades as well. VM sells special (thicker) screens just for this, although as @Bolano said many of us also used homemade stacks of screens which tend to leak much easier. And the 'factory' ones are made with a bevel on the edge to match the wall of the pan for much improved contact. They heat and make vapor much faster/easier.

Shatter is kind of a 'worst case' concentrate since it goes so liquid so quickly. You need something like mesh to soak it up.

A week or two back a poster was trying to find them, and another poster pointed him at a dealer with stock. IIRC he got the last ones, but I suspect the dealer will go for more stock?

Good luck with it.

OF

 

[StringTheorista]

I tried this and found that it caused the middle section to absorb alot of the resin and disclolour very quickly. I had to use acetone to clean it... for the first time, after years of normal use hardly discoloured it at all.
I do use hemp fibre in my vapcaps and air so i would usually advocate for this method but i think vapman needs a different approach. Maybe pu it in the end of the bamboo stem?

Edit- i have pear wood. A hard or dense wood may not absorb resin the same.

Thanks for this. I tried it in the midsection and found it affected the draw too much. One of the things I like about the vapman is how wide open the draw is, which surprised me since you inhale through such a narrow tube

 

[Bioboni]

After more testing, I don't think a vapman through mini/micro bong would be preferablethan vaping a vapman through a new ways ash catcher.

In fact, the new ways ash catcher is just perfect. With a bong you bend over forwards for Inhaling.

But with the ashcatcher, you can inhale in a much more relaxed and natural posture. The small tubes of the ashcatcher are very preferable to a normal size bong, cuz it allows for not much draw resistance.

Anyone interested in an excellent portable (and at home) water tool for the vapman, should look into the new ways ash catcher and use their ash catcher as in the picture below.

If you want cooler vapor, then try to inhale through the "mouthpiece" but also through a small opening between your lips right next to the mouthpiece. That way you mix fresh air with vapor coming from the vapman.

Vaping through that watertool just feels nicer and taste better imo. Plus there's the added bonus of:

-Having small plant particles water filtered;
-Not burning buds as easily due to holding upside down

https://ibb.co/tJcLrZb

 

[Bioboni]

Don't mean to spam, but it's annoying you can't edit posts older than 24(?) hours.

Today I unscrewed the stainless steel screen off the vapman, and turned it 15° sideways.
Then the holes where the screws were, can now function as two extra air holes in the vapman.

This is good for those who don't have access to a fine drill, or don't know if drilling the vapman is worth it.
After vaping 4 pans with the new 2 air holes (as well as the loose stainless steel screen )
i think it's safe to say this is the most comfortable hits I ever got.

So either unscrewing the stainless steel screen or increasing the existing airholesize or simply creating 2 new airholes;
is very worth it if you are interested in a cooler vape.

Modnote: Bolded text added at author's request: This post needs to be edited. Unscrewing the stainless steel screen doesn't change the airflow at all; as the screws do not pierce the top chamber at all. The placebo effect can be a shameful thing sometimes.

I'm quite sure a long stem does barely anything in terms of cooling down the vapor, for those athmatics (like me)
which suffer hard from hot or dry vapor.

the ashcatcher + extra (or bigger) airholes make a much cooler vapor and more comfortable way of drawing, than "inhaling air sideways from the mouthpiece". So my apologies for that bad suggestion in my earlier post.



I hope i'll finally be able to not get burning airways feeling anymore, now that the vapman has been tweaked to perfection.
because months of irritation from vaping has been worrying me a bit.

in the first year and a half i was continuously vaping hash at a high temperature through a vapman directly.
my airways became really sensitive over time but i'm not 100% sure this is what caused it.
maybe there's other factors at play as well.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

There are a lot of vaporizers out there,
but the vapman just ticks all my boxes; and these vapmans last forever basically.

I've come to love the basic version over the Mica version, because it's more suitable for low temperature vaping.
Despite the small hassle with needing to increase the size of the airholes and buying a watertool.... the vaper that now comes from the vapman + ash catcher is amazing, and the way of filling and using the vapman just feels and looks great.

God bless the vapman and his vaporizer.

 

[OF]

Don't mean to spam, but it's annoying you can't edit posts older than 24(?) hours.

I'm quite sure a long stem does barely anything in terms of cooling down the vapor, for those athmatics (like me)
which suffer hard from hot or dry vapor.

I've come to love the basic version over the Mica version, because it's more suitable for low temperature vaping.

I don't consider such comments 'spamming', but I think it comes dangerously close to criticizing Mods/policy publicly? As I understand it, that's taboo......you should PM a Mod? The cutoff is not fatal, if you miss the deadline simply quote your own post and correct it as you see fit?

I'm not sure how you can say it doesn't help cool the vapor to have a longer stem as a matter of fact, there's sure a lot of us who tried it and found it helpful? You opinion, perhaps, but not really a fact unless you have some secret information?

Again, my opinion is that the mica doesn't change the nature of the beast. How, exactly, do you think the lack of it makes it more suitable? I can see many advantages to the mica, or conversely reasons to favor the basic and the 'char' effects, but fail to see how one favors low temperatures over the other. Perhaps I'm missing something?

VM is a very versatile device. There are in fact owners who purposely block the air holes believing that doing so favors their technique for instance? The important thing is to find a technique that suits you? VM is very supportive of such individuals IMO.....which is most cool.

Regards to all.

OF

 

[Ramahs]

Don't mean to spam, but it's annoying you can't edit posts older than 24(?) hours.

It's not spamming if your last post was more than six hours ago.

 

[OF]

It's not spamming if your last post was more than six hours ago.

While that might be closer to the general definition, I'm not sure it's accurate here? As I understand 'spamming' it's the broadcast, unsolicited spreading of a commercial message for profit or to promote a cause:

" Spamming is the use of messaging systems to send an unsolicited message (spam) to large numbers of recipients for the purpose of commercial advertising, for the purpose of non-commercial proselytizing, or for any prohibited purpose (especially the fraudulent purpose of phishing). While the most widely recognized form of spam is email spam, the term is applied to similar abuses in other media: instant messaging spam,"

Spamming - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Basically unwanted free advertising? The OP is expressing an opinion, one time, without any relation to profit. It's not repeated, but is simply questionable WRT Forum rules? It's Forum policy not to post such posts publicly, making it potentially inappropriate but it lacks the key elements to be considered 'spam' in conventional terms.

FWIW, I tend to agree with the policy as it gives time to correct typos, add additional information and so on while preventing removal or editing after the fact? What we say here is (and IMO should be) a permanent record.

Yet, through it all, VM remains a great vape. Not for everyone, of course, but one many of us really find useful and one we 'identify with' at a personal level?

Regards to all.

OF

 

[Bioboni]

I'm not sure how you can say it doesn't help cool the vapor to have a longer stem as a matter of fact, there's sure a lot of us who tried it and found it helpful? You opinion, perhaps, but not really a fact unless you have some secret information?

I don't think it would help enough for people with a strong hypersensitivity to warm vapor. (like certain asthmatics for example)

Again, my opinion is that the mica doesn't change the nature of the beast. How, exactly, do you think the lack of it makes it more suitable? I can see many advantages to the mica, or conversely reasons to favor the basic and the 'char' effects, but fail to see how one favors low temperatures over the other. Perhaps I'm missing something?

Doesn't the mica keep the pan hotter for longer?
The pan in a basic vapman personally feels easier to keep at a low temperature when there's an absense of mica.

 

[OF]

Doesn't the mica keep the pan hotter for longer?
The pan in a basic vapman personally feels easier to keep at a low temperature when there's an absense of mica.

Not as I understand how heat works. Yes, wood absorbs more heat, the mica tends to reflect it back, but the result of that is the guys running basic version simply heat a bit longer (or use a bigger flame) to get to the same temperature. You determine how hot it gets in either case.

As far as 'keeping it hotter', I can't see that. You heat to the temperature you want by 'feel' (time and flame size and placement) after you remove the fire, the mass of copper, rate of draw, and energy (heat) used to make vapor determine the cooling and should be identical, give or take.

Consider using the station, which heats the pan by conduction is not been found to differ?

If, OTOH, you feel it suits you better, so be it. For you it's real. That's the important part, right? I just can't support the idea that the basic is really that different than the classic in the way it heats. IMO it's not a fact. The jobs they do are interchangeable as we use them as individuals. Does anyone else find a difference?

Regards to all.

OF