Vapman

Dattisso

Spacevaper
:whoa: had a magic vapman session with the classic Walnut with the mflb caleidoscoop mouthpiece (nice combi).
Normally I use this one for the vapman station, but tonight (3 am CET) I wanted the torch doing its job.
It seemed like there came no end to this enormous joyful ripping drawing toking session! :peace:
I fired it up, on & on & on. Wow. And taste! Flavorful.:p
Till the end; except last draw, then I knew it was. End of session. But man, wow.
Thnx Vapman. Again. High on!
:smug::bigleaf:
 

Dutch-Mic

Well-Known Member
:whoa: had a magic vapman session with the classic Walnut with the mflb caleidoscoop mouthpiece (nice combi).
Normally I use this one for the vapman station, but tonight (3 am CET) I wanted the torch doing its job.
It seemed like there came no end to this enormous joyful ripping drawing toking session! :peace:
I fired it up, on & on & on. Wow. And taste! Flavorful.:p
Till the end; except last draw, then I knew it was. End of session. But man, wow.
Thnx Vapman. Again. High on!
:smug::bigleaf:

The Vapman and the MFLB mouthpiece... I always forget to try that combination! Does it cool down the vapor a bit?

I really love the Vapman for a session like you described, but only can do that with a high CBD/low THC strain. The Vapman is so efficient that I need to finish a high THC strain in two sessions.

2vje52e.jpg


Btw, love your avatar as a Johnny Cash fan. San Quentin...:

 

Dattisso

Spacevaper
I really love the Vapman for a session like you described, but only can do that with a high CBD/low THC strain. The Vapman is so efficient that I need to finish a high THC strain in two sessions.

Well, was I wasted last night. Had two of that kind of sessions... :ko::freak:

The MFLB mouthpiece. Does it the vapor cool down? Maybe yes, maybe no. Maybe a bit of a bit. IDK. But I like glass. Between the lips.
And the caleidoscoop one. It's just something more than just glass. I feel fine with it! :cool:

And about Johnny...
The Man. & His Music. Respect! :bowdown:

To everyone. Have a nice Vapman Day! :leaf::peace:
 

OF

Well-Known Member
So has anyone tried vaping traditional pressed hash in a basic vapman,
and compared that to the classic?:brow:

I'd think the classic would be better as the MICA helps to keep the vapman hotter (?),
but I can't help but wonder if the mica really makes that much of a difference

*Q* Whats the best way to clean the plastic mouthpiece?
*Q2* Will covering the boxtree mouthpiece with a thin layer of linseed oil make the surface more slippery? I don't like how it feels a little rough.

This has been discussed a few times, NO DIFFERENCE, the working parts are the same. The mica protects the wood, keeping it from charring over time. It's too far away, and there's too much 'free air' between for the mica to provide any insulation to the pan/bowl.

Plastic MPs can be easily cleaned with (dish) detergents, even using the dishwasher?). Be careful of solvent (this includes ISO) soaks, but quick wipes are OK. Pipe cleaners clean the bore well and are cheap.

No, linseed oil dries hard (like varnish), the body of classic VMs has this finish, as do classic (military) wood rifle stocks, neither is at all slippery.

You should, however, be careful it's pure boiled linseed oil, often chemicals (sometimes called "Japan Dryers") are added to speed the cure so you can put multiple coats on furniture and stuff.......but some are heavy metal based and toxic, not the ideal MP protection. You can also use hard paste waxes, rich in carnauba wax, made from palm trees and quite safe to eat (many food products, like candy, use it to seal and protect the products.......you've been eating it for years). My favorite is Johnson's floor wax, FWiW. Very tough and 'food safe'.

OF
 

bs420

New Member
Hi, I'm new in the forum I'm from Chile I just acquired the Pure version (in my country is not available mica version) I searched the 300 pages and lost the page where talked about the screens for concentrates, is there any way to improvise something diy?
I think I've seen a concentrate screen made with a pipe screen. Is this possible?

Thanks!
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Hi, I'm new in the forum I'm from Chile I just acquired the Pure version (in my country is not available mica version) I searched the 300 pages and lost the page where talked about the screens for concentrates, is there any way to improvise something diy?
I think I've seen a concentrate screen made with a pipe screen. Is this possible?

Thanks!

First off, welcome to the Forum. Lots of good folks around, as you've no doubt discovered.

I'm happy you can get such a unique, truly fine product from half way around the world, literally. Access to such products seems to be improving all the time.

The factory screens are definitely superior to home made ones. They are thicker so hold more concentrate in the mesh. The center hole is precise so there are no fit problems and the rims bent up at the correct angle to fully engage the wall of the pan. Very nicely made from some custom tooling. The best home made ones can hope for it partial contact at a few points.

That said many of us tried and got some good results in some cases. I suggest starting with a few stacked pipe screens (say 3 thin or 2 thicker ones?), with holes in the center to clear the post completely. Then shape them to fit. IIRC I used 5/8 inch ones. Avoid the urge to press them into the pan to shape, the Gold plating is very thin and soft, you're sure to scar it. I used a bottle cap of about the right size stuffed with paper towels to make it very shallow. I then used the cap on a 'Sharpie' pen to press it into the cap to dish it out. Same with the other screens, pressing them into the first after initial shaping, testing for fit. I used fine wire cutters to trim the last screen down a bit as I recall, scissors would also work.

Mine worked well, finally, although it was 'fiddly'. It'd torch it clean, but dropped it on the floor once and never got it back to fitting 'right' again. The factory screens, of course, have none of those issues.

Good luck with it.

I hope you learn to enjoy your VM quickly and completely. The user is definitely part of the experience, your timing and 'feel' determine the success. Remember, 'don't be too shy with the heat'. it's normal to do, of course, but most guys waste a lot of time early on trying to make it work well for them too cold. Combustion is very hard to do, really, and not really all that bad. Assuming you only briefly do it, it's easy to clean up and residual tastes get 'covered up' in the next session or two. Once you stop drawing air in the fire dies almost instantly for lack of oxygen. So, if you start to taste 'burnt popcorn', freeze the it and set the VM down to cool. No big deal, really, if you don't make it a habit.

Until you learn where the upper limit is, your working in the dark IMO.

Regards to all.

OF
 

Hogni

Honi soit qui mal y pense
Hi @vapman,
what's about your troubles with cross-border trade to EU states? Any news?
As I told here before I wrote an appeal against the notification of customs who refused to let in VapCap parts of a German FC user to Germany caused by the new regulation on e-cigs. Now, after 4 months, the appeal finally was rectified by the Behörde für Gesundheit und Verbraucherschutz - hurrah! Vapes of this kind don't fall under the law of the new EU regulation. They want to inform the custom regarding this interpretation of the law. My argumentation should work everywhere in the EU because it regards to an EU law.
If you should need more info just drop me a line.
 

OF

Well-Known Member

Bravo!!

Sadly, in the end, such efforts only get us back where we were. No advancement, really, more of recovery?

I think the White Rabbit, Alice's friend from "Through the Looking Glass", put it best:

"Sometimes it takes all the rerunning we can do to stay in the same place".

True then, true now.

Thanks for the good work. And good news. And congratulations.

OF
 
Last edited by a moderator:

bs420

New Member
First off, welcome to the Forum.
I hope you learn to enjoy your VM quickly and completely. The user is definitely part of the experience, your timing and 'feel' determine the success. Remember, 'don't be too shy with the heat'. it's normal to do, of course, but most guys waste a lot of time early on trying to make it work well for them too cold. Combustion is very hard to do, really, and not really all that bad. Assuming you only briefly do it, it's easy to clean up and residual tastes get 'covered up' in the next session or two. Once you stop drawing air in the fire dies almost instantly for lack of oxygen. So, if you start to taste 'burnt popcorn', freeze the it and set the VM down to cool. No big deal, really, if you don't make it a habit.


OF



Hi, OF.

Thank you very much for the advice!! But I think that for this time I will give up doing the screen for concentrates. About my experience I have 6 days using my VM and I am really happy with it. As mentioned, I have decided to experiment without fear of the heat of the flame (burn it once) but I think I am already taking the rhythm, the best thing is that it has helped me to quit smoking due to the ritual that involves using the VM. leaves more than satisfied, also that the amount of material does not exceed .07 which is more than good!

Now it is worth mentioning that I have problems to clean the "wok". In my country I do not get the product "Magic Eraser" or something similar. I have cleaned it with cotton and ISO but it does not seem to work. Nor can I get acetone since the laws of my country regulate the use of this element.
Is there any way to leave the wok clean and rejuvenated?

To finish the other time remove the screen of the central part of the VM to clean, but I could see that the wood was somewhat toasted.
My question is, how much is the useful life I should expect from my pure VM? or at least the central part?
Being honest I have some fear that can last a short time, maybe I'm just something paranoid to see an object so beautiful, small and effective. And I'm afraid of losing it in the short term.

I would appreciate if you could help me with my doubts. Especially of the average duration of a VM or its parts ...

Greetings to all!
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Now it is worth mentioning that I have problems to clean the "wok". In my country I do not get the product "Magic Eraser" or something similar. I have cleaned it with cotton and ISO but it does not seem to work. Nor can I get acetone since the laws of my country regulate the use of this element.
Is there any way to leave the wok clean and rejuvenated?
You're welcome, glad to help when I can.

You probably have it, sold under another name. It's not a patented thing, only a brand name trademark. You can buy bags of them on EBay and Amazon. Too bad it's hard to find.

Solvents like ISO and acetone are not going to work on hardened deposits. The bonds that make it solid are just too strong. When they are thin such deposits resist 'flaking off' but when thicker can get brittle. They can sometimes be flaked free of the Gold surface (one of the reasons it's there in fact) using the tip of a knife blade carefully. Takes a steady hand. Put the whole thing in the freezer first, it'll make it even more brittle.

One thing you might try is something I found useful with the QQ (a hash oil rig that gets nasty fouling on a glass bowl). Putting a couple of drops of water in the bowl and boiling it there for 20 seconds or so does an amazing job of wicking in under deposits (and being glass, you can scratch the deposits to let water in more places with QQ, not recommended with VM)......where it boils to steam and expands a lot. Kind of blasts pieces off that float away on the boiling drops of water. I've never tried it, but see it worth a try (you have to keep it horizontal and heat from below of course).

Best is to try to keep ahead of it. When first laid down, and still warm, you can often wipe it off with ISO on a q-tip. But once it hardens you're fighting an uphill fight.

Don't sweat the char on the body. As it gets thicker the rate slows more and more. Don't be tempted to scrape it or anything, just enjoy. I'm not sure anyone has ever worn one out this way, you're welcome to try to be the first.

Regards.

OF

Edit: One more thought on fouling from weed, it seems very subject to how damp the herb is going in. Keep moisture out (by being sure the herb is 'well cured' going in) and fouling of the nasty sort is all be eliminated. We sorted this out with MFLB years ago, a vape that is made of wood and can't be disassembled for cleaning. Keep it dry going in and the vape will stay cleaner?

OF
 

vapman

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
I want one!!

Anyone wanting one of these can have one, just send me an email and we'll find a way. I will be back at work after the 8th of April, I am enjoying my first holidays in 10 years.

@Hogni : Thank you for your effort about shipping items to end users, I will get back to you as soon I' m back from holidays.

Kind regards to eveyone from Australia!

vapman
 

cloudsosmoke

Well-Known Member
Hope Vapman enjoys his holiday in Oz



I wonder if you could reorganise one of these to power a vapman

https://www.deciwatt.global/gravitylight

Generating 20 minutes of light from a descending bag of rocks.

https://www.deciwatt.global/nowlight

Generating instant light and power with the pull of a cord. Anytime. Anywhere.
Just 1 minute pulling creates over 1 hour of light!



(..I don’t know enough physics)
 

AtomicPB

Well-Known Member

OF

Well-Known Member
I wonder if you could reorganise one of these to power a vapman

https://www.deciwatt.global/gravitylight

Fun idea, but not even close to the power we need. We need a large fraction of the power you can generate on a stationary bike continuously. Basically one Human Power.

The friction version needs a strong guy hauling a lot to heat up, which I think is why it never became popular? By the time the it is ready, you're too out of breath to enjoy it? Best stick with lighters, there's a LOT of energy in a tiny bit of gas.

Regards to all.

OF
 

Alex3oe

Accessory Maker
Now it is worth mentioning that I have problems to clean the "wok". In my country I do not get the product "Magic Eraser" or something similar. I have cleaned it with cotton and ISO but it does not seem to work. Nor can I get acetone since the laws of my country regulate the use of this element.
Is there any way to leave the wok clean and rejuvenated?

To finish the other time remove the screen of the central part of the VM to clean, but I could see that the wood was somewhat toasted.
My question is, how much is the useful life I should expect from my pure VM? or at least the central part?
Being honest I have some fear that can last a short time, maybe I'm just something paranoid to see an object so beautiful, small and effective. And I'm afraid of losing it in the short term.

I would appreciate if you could help me with my doubts. Especially of the average duration of a VM or its parts ...


Nearly only vaped hash in my first Vapman. Didn't know about magic erasers at this time, so only what worked for me to get residues of was scratching with a knife. After some time the gold cover was scratched of too.
But is only a optical thing, maybe you have to heat half a second longer. The Vapman works great as always, even with a scratched goldless wok :)
 

in_human_form

Active Member
This has been discussed a few times, NO DIFFERENCE, the working parts are the same. The mica protects the wood, keeping it from charring over time. It's too far away, and there's too much 'free air' between for the mica to provide any insulation to the pan/bowl.
Thanks OF.

Just ordered the VapMan basic pear in a red shell.

Without mica, and it being cheaper as well, it's going to feel safer when taking it out on the streets. :nope:
Can't wait to try it with some quality morrocon Pollen (pressed hash).

:luv:
 

in_human_form

Active Member
I charred the basic pear today, here are the pics.

https://ibb.co/NpMQw3Z
https://ibb.co/X83zHm2

Did I char it too much or is it supposed to be this be black?


Classic pear looks great but basic pear looks kind of cheap.
Maybe i'll sell the pear to a friend and order a walnut. :p

Also, whats up with no VapMan logo being written on ?
Is that normal for basic vapmans or did verdamptnochmal sell me a chinese fake :p
 

vapman

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Also, whats up with no VapMan logo being written on ?
Is that normal for basic vapmans or did verdamptnochmal sell me a chinese fake :p

There are no chinese fakes on the market! I stopped branding the logo as lots of folks didn't like it.
Some think the logo spoils the looks of the wood grain, some woods aren't suited for branding, anyway.

Classic pear looks great but basic pear looks kind of cheap.

Some guys prefer the basic version, the components are always of high quality! The wood of the pear tree is very homogene and ideal for vapman, the copper bowl is CNC turned and gold coated, the springs, the filter and the heat ring made of stainless steel and the mouthpiece is of food grade pom. I couldn't make it of higher quality, really.

vapman
 

in_human_form

Active Member
@in_human_form Dude,what kind of torch did you use on this poor vapman,a brulee/dab torch ,or plummers torch.. How the hell did you manage to scorh the top side ? Did you tried heating it from the sides ,i havent seen a vapman scorched on the topside ever.
I saw a video on youtube about a vapman that was torched on the top sides like how I did mine.
I thought that that was how it was supposed to be done.

A lack of proper official documentation on how to char these things is to blame for this poor vapman's fate, on which a vapman-style torch was used.

I suppose it's only an aesthetic problem tho :p
 

Copacetic

Somewhere North of The Wall
I saw a video on youtube about a vapman that was torched on the top sides like how I did mine.
I thought that that was how it was supposed to be done.

A lack of proper official documentation on how to char these things is to blame for this poor vapman's fate, on which a vapman-style torch was used.

I suppose it's only an aesthetic problem tho :p
Wow, that's a bold move :o
You're not supposed to char the Vapman deliberately (that's why there's no official documentation on the process).
Some charring does happen in normal use, but it should just occur on the inside of the ring of wood that is closest to the heating pan.

There are models which come with deliberately scorched/blackened surfaces, but these are done quite precisely (I imagine by masking/shielding the upper surface areas which are to remain unmarked :shrug:).

I doubt that you've done a great deal of damage with your diy scorch though.
As you say, probably cosmetic damage only.
Maybe a slight flavour/odour of burnt wood for a while?

I bet it still works fine.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
A lack of proper official documentation on how to char these things is to blame for this poor vapman's fate, on which a vapman-style torch was used.

I suppose it's only an aesthetic problem tho :p

Where is there any documentation from the maker on this at all? It's mostly an invention of a couple of pioneers here I think. They approached it carefully and understanding what they were doing?

It should still function normally, I suggest enjoying it rather than trying to 'improve' it out of the box?

Wow, that's a bold move :o
You're not supposed to char the Vapman deliberately (that's why there's no official documentation on the process).
Some charring does happen in normal use, but it should just occur on the inside of the ring of wood that is closest to the heating pan.

I bet it still works fine.

I'm sure you're right, it's still fully functional. And some careful 'clean up' with 0000 steel wool can remove much of the surface carbon. In normal use, this carbon forms part of the shield that protects the wood under it slowing and eventually stopping damage, hopefully in time (before the screws give out for instance).

One of the dangers of 'I read it on the web', IMO. It's not always a good substitute for understanding/researching what you do.

OF
 
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