Discontinued VapeXhale Cloud
- Thread starter stonemonkey55
- Start date
-
- Tags
- water filtered
Vapinghole
Low-Temp Hempist / JedHI Master
Awesome, Stu! I love it when that happens--typically when I spike the ELB with enough kief or hash.
sunsett70
Member
or you're a fucking shill.
mod note: You don't get to call anyone a shill. It's name calling, which is always against the rules.
hey man, no way i was serious, twas a joke, maybe a bad joke but still a joke. i can't believe some people actually took me seriously on this one. the most you can accuse me of is having a bad sense of humour.
mod note: I can't believe you risked a warning for a joke that you in no way, shape, or form identified as a joke. Responding to mod notes is also against the rules, since it's a public discussion of a staff decision.
lwien
Well-Known Member
Edit: In retrospect, i think I really just wanted to show off the t-shirt.
And you're Brazilian flag.
And sunsett, I thought it was a joke, especially being that you inserted that Groucho smiley but that word has some bad history around here and I guess I'm partly to blame for that (no Groucho smiley).
Max Kiefer
Formerly kool kief
Thanks for the heads up!
I've been jonsing for a cloud for ages and at <$400 I can finally afford one, but when I try and checkout from VaporStore it tells me the coupon is invalid
Has anyone else gotten this to work?
Bob Loblaw
Astralnaut
did you make sure to check that you accept terms?
it's right above where you enter the coupon
it's right above where you enter the coupon
havealight101
Norski
Thank you ripBongs & Stu! Just what the Dr. ordered.
MonsterWithoutBorders
Philosophim
I bought a broke cloud SERIAL # below 250. Red light comes on but never heats up.
I first removed the silicone sleeve. I removed it with a hair dryer but it left a bit of residue behind.
Using MEK I was able to remove all the residue from the sleeve and a little paint.
Take out the eight screws with an allen wrench and you expose the circuit board and the
wiring. Electronics are isolated from heating unit.
Pictures of inside with insulation.
THE PROBLEM
Stainless steel wire has come loose from the stainless steel(?) pad. One side of the connection
to the ceramic heater. It looks like this wire was welded with a single point. Perhaps an
induction weld. Very weak connection for something that goes through such heating and
cooling stress. This is not connected like most heaters. Most heaters have a mechanical
connection a fold over or a crimp and do not depend on a single weld point.
The person I worked with too fix this was a master welder but we did not have the setup to do
a weld though we might try that next time. We attempted to use silver solder to connect
the wire to the plate. This was very difficult to do as however the original connection was
made it made it very difficult to get the solder to tin the plate. However with application
of a torch directly we finally were able to get it to solder. Unfortunately the heat that
we applied broke the ceramic heater. We expected the glass to break. However it still broke
and the cloud is easily pronounced dead.
Attempt to reattach the wire:
I first removed the silicone sleeve. I removed it with a hair dryer but it left a bit of residue behind.
Using MEK I was able to remove all the residue from the sleeve and a little paint.
Take out the eight screws with an allen wrench and you expose the circuit board and the
wiring. Electronics are isolated from heating unit.
Pictures of inside with insulation.
THE PROBLEM
Stainless steel wire has come loose from the stainless steel(?) pad. One side of the connection
to the ceramic heater. It looks like this wire was welded with a single point. Perhaps an
induction weld. Very weak connection for something that goes through such heating and
cooling stress. This is not connected like most heaters. Most heaters have a mechanical
connection a fold over or a crimp and do not depend on a single weld point.
The person I worked with too fix this was a master welder but we did not have the setup to do
a weld though we might try that next time. We attempted to use silver solder to connect
the wire to the plate. This was very difficult to do as however the original connection was
made it made it very difficult to get the solder to tin the plate. However with application
of a torch directly we finally were able to get it to solder. Unfortunately the heat that
we applied broke the ceramic heater. We expected the glass to break. However it still broke
and the cloud is easily pronounced dead.
Attempt to reattach the wire:
Max Kiefer
Formerly kool kief
Pappy
shmaporist
Vedy Instuctive...
mod note: Thanks for editing those pics out of your quote, I wish more people would do that.
VapeNStone
Mark
the video is private?
elmomuzz
That just happened...
Excellent pictures. I'm pretty sure I could have fixed that. You needed to sand the pad down to bare metal. I would have also snipped the end of the wire and stripped it to expose fresh wire. Then using the proper wattage iron, flux and solder it should be no problem.
Bob Loblaw
Astralnaut
sorry to hear. maybe contact dealer? looks like me and other dude mighta skidded in under the radar?Yes, but still not taking the coupon
if so i guess i got luckier than i thought?
ouch on that bad repair. do agree that those wires should be screwed down, not soldered.
am champing at the bit waiting for my cloud. is on truck and should be here within a few hrs. def. before noon. was gonna go snowboarding right after, but it looks like the winds are gonna be a little rough and tomorrow should be a little easier, still good snow, but a little more visible. plus i went to gym last night and i don't want to cripple myself. looks like i'm gonna get to spend the day breaking in the new toy. methinks i shoulda ordered extra ELB's immediately. tick, tick, tick, tick, tick.....
MonsterWithoutBorders
Philosophim
We tried many things to get it to take. We were thinking that the temperature that we are dealing with is in access of 650 degrees. Normal solder does not work. You need silver solder which takes in excess of 1000 degrees to get to work. A soldering iron is not hot enough. We used a torch and caused the
failure. Soldering was not right approach most likely. Some sort of welding operation is needed. That is how it originally was done we were able too see the weld point once we got the pad clean. Next time we might try drilling through the plate and putting in a very short screw in order to attach the wire. In our opinion this connection is really very poor for such an expensive piece of equipment. Design flaw.
Knowledge is power. But I am pretty bummed too. At least I have a spare cloud to practice on if my own daily cloud gets this problem. I really wanted to succeed. Bah hum bug.
sunsett70
Member
if i thought i was joking, then what was the risk? if you followed the flow of my emotion (in every way, shape & form) starting from post #10401, you would see that there would have been no reason for me to suddenly 'change' and insult him. and obviously, my Groucho smiley was considered 'jokey' by some, not TL though, so i can see your point. my conscience is clear though. So as to not hijack this thread, could you pls kindly provide me with the specific mod's name so i can take this conversation private? thank you.
mod note: You seem to be having a really difficult time understanding the rule-
- Public discussions of staff decisions are not permitted on the site. If you have any concerns or queries relating to a staff decision please take it up in private with a staff member.
TigerLord
Alias for BradyY
Max Kiefer
Formerly kool kief
Yeah, I opened a ticket at VaporStore yesterday but got no reply. Its just weird cause they state no discount on Volcano but nothing about the Cloud...
ctweips
Member
Just dropping by to update everyone on a truly amazing cloud story. I am a college student who obsessed over the cloud for a while last year until I was finally able to get it in July, however I was out of the state when ordering it so I shipped it to a friend of mine for safe keeping. Upon arrival of the package I told him to try it out for me, and within ten minutes of opening the box he had tripped over the cord and sent cloud and hydratube flying, the hydratube didnt make it but the cloud did. Nearly 4 months after receiving my cloud another friend left the cloud in the joint of my brand new skinny tube, tube tipped over with cloud in it and diagonally shattered the male joint. The joint still allows an ELB to fit in and vape properly, even after my friends have sent it flying off of the kitchen table twice more since then. I am horrified and amazed at all the damage this thing has received and is still working flawlessly, a little hurt aesthetically but this baby is tough! I still love my incredibly broken and hurt cloud, hoping above hope that she lasts until I order a replacement towards the start of summer.
elmomuzz
That just happened...
Soldering might not be as good as a weld but it should have stuck. I still contend I could have done it. I hope I never need to find out though. So far so good my cloud ticks away.
TigerLord
Alias for BradyY
So far so good my cloud ticks away.
For the price paid we'd expect all of our clouds to continue ticking away
Bob Loblaw
Astralnaut
got my cloud! read the directions.
turned dial all the way to left. flipped switch. loaded ELB.
waiting for light to turn green. waiting, waiting.....
while waiting i decided to move the dial a little and see what happens.
move dial to 9 and it blinks and goes green... hmm.....move dial to 10.30-11 blinks and goes green. move dial to 12 (been warming up for 14 min) goes back to red. move dial all the way back down and goes red again at anything below 9 o'clock. am guessing that anything below 9 is too low for vaping temps?
is 15 min. normal for warmup? just turned green! time to hit the green crack i just got!
EDiT - oh and it came w/ some kinda rubber wrap for heat shielding. was a little rough getting it on straight. am hoping repeated heatings and coolings will help the adhesive
turned dial all the way to left. flipped switch. loaded ELB.
waiting for light to turn green. waiting, waiting.....
while waiting i decided to move the dial a little and see what happens.
move dial to 9 and it blinks and goes green... hmm.....move dial to 10.30-11 blinks and goes green. move dial to 12 (been warming up for 14 min) goes back to red. move dial all the way back down and goes red again at anything below 9 o'clock. am guessing that anything below 9 is too low for vaping temps?
is 15 min. normal for warmup? just turned green! time to hit the green crack i just got!
EDiT - oh and it came w/ some kinda rubber wrap for heat shielding. was a little rough getting it on straight. am hoping repeated heatings and coolings will help the adhesive
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Fwiw . . . as discussed earlier there have been a number of design and assembly process improvements since release. E.g., this unit does not have the same heater nor heater jacket as earlier versions (serial numbers do not correlate to age of unit). Also, I believe there have been additional changes to the bamboo and firmware. So anyone opening their unit may very well find some different innards.
Also, one thing I didn't see that I struggled with, was removing the PCB. Did you try to do that? It appears on your unit that the board is mounted the same way as mine, with the rocker switch snap-attached to the casing wall (not accessible) and its feet thru the board soldered from the back side. I had to disconnect the switch from the board to get at it.