Discontinued VapeXhale Cloud

[mvapes]

yea i got a number for a very good psychologist.

Um - pm me that number

 

[ictus]

If it's packed tighter, it will need to be stirred to get out all the actives. It's been mentioned a number of times throughout the thread that overpacking can lead to combustion on max depending on the max temp of the unit in question. When the ELB is tightly packed, there is more restriction and less space for airflow with a result similar to what you'd get by throttling the bamboo, which is another risk for combustion.

How hard you draw shouldn't affect how dark the ABV will be. One of the big selling points of the Cloud is it's ability to maintain a constant temperature regardless of draw speed. So, pull hard or soft, the temp should remain the same, as it has in my experience.

I know it is one of the "selling points", but the cloud can only adjust hotter, not colder, so it doesn't function as exactly as it seems. And yes it certainly does make a difference how hard you draw.

If you do a hard draw, immediately followed by a slow draw, you will get MUCH denser vapor from the slow draw than had you skipped the large draw beforehand. I have verified this countless times on multiple clouds.

Why? Not sure. Here is my theory. When you hit it hard, the cloud turns on/up its heating element to keep pace. Since the cloud has a large thermal mass, some of this extra heat stays around and actually gets the air hotter with the slower air flow. I am probably wrong about why it happens, but this behavior exists. I have actually "pre-hit" the cloud for my friends before since they seemed to be too hesitant on the draw and weren't getting the size clouds I was.

 

[ShipDit]

Um - pm me that number

Don't do it bro! You're already crazier than Charles Manson eating fruit-loops in the nude...and that's why we love ya!

 

[green2brown]

If you do a hard draw, immediately followed by a slow draw, you will get MUCH denser vapor from the slow draw than had you skipped the large draw beforehand. I have verified this countless times on multiple clouds.

Why? Not sure. Here is my theory. When you hit it hard, the cloud turns on/up its heating element to keep pace. Since the cloud has a large thermal mass, some of this extra heat stays around and actually gets the air hotter with the slower air flow. I am probably wrong about why it happens, but this behavior exists. I have actually "pre-hit" the cloud for my friends before since they seemed to be too hesitant on the draw and weren't getting the size clouds I was.

I'm not sure this has been touched upon before in this thread, but it's definitely true. And it's typically how I hit my Cloud - harder for a moment and then ease up to take a longer hit. I guess subconsciously I was noticing what you described. It gets confusing though when you take into account the fact that I've had ABV equal in shade to friend's ABV even though I have much more lung power and can pull much harder than them. So that's why IME I can't say that draw speed has an effect on ABV. But you've noticed it. So maybe somehow it varies from Cloud to Cloud?

 

[Stu]

I know it is one of the "selling points", but the cloud can only adjust hotter, not colder, so it doesn't function as exactly as it seems. And yes it certainly does make a difference how hard you draw.

If you do a hard draw, immediately followed by a slow draw, you will get MUCH denser vapor from the slow draw than had you skipped the large draw beforehand. I have verified this countless times on multiple clouds.

Why? Not sure. Here is my theory. When you hit it hard, the cloud turns on/up its heating element to keep pace. Since the cloud has a large thermal mass, some of this extra heat stays around and actually gets the air hotter with the slower air flow. I am probably wrong about why it happens, but this behavior exists. I have actually "pre-hit" the cloud for my friends before since they seemed to be too hesitant on the draw and weren't getting the size clouds I was.

Here's my theory:

The fast initial draw preheats the ELB (a prerequisite for optimal vapor IMO) quickly, so it's ready to rock and roll pretty fast. Any subsequent slower hits are getting the benefit of a pre-heated ELB and provides thick vapor immediately.

As opposed to a slower overall draw that takes longer to preheat the ELB to optimal vaporization temps.

Or of course I could be totally wrong (usually am).

 

[Anonymouse]

words

words

It's a little from column A, and a little from column B, by the sounds of it.

And you're right in that the Cloud can only actively heat, not cool, but the fresh air stream running through the tube performs the role of heater cooling. It's just, when you suddenly ramp down your draw speed, you also dramatically reduce the cooling ability of the inlet air, so it's always gonna be able to adjust temp up a lot faster than it does down.

 

[t-dub]

One thing I have thought about is the Infra Red (IR) reflection once the Cloud gets "hot" We all know vapor production "changes" once the Cloud has been on a while. My theory is, and I'm probably wrong, is that IR reflections from the shell, and even the GonG itself, fuck with the temps involved and may cause premature dessication of the cellulose substrate, thus degrading flavor. Thermal mass is important but where to keep it, and how much, is the question . . .

 

[Seek]

I have had my Cloud on 3 for a while until the shield got hot. Then I hit like a 1/3 ELB hard with a shorty. It was quite hot, big cloud. I opened the cap, herbs still on top and 90 percent even browing at top. The bottom browning distribution should be even better i think. Cloud it, just given it a little shake to mix and second hit browned it completely with some wispy vapor. Heat distribution of this vape is just so near perfect. I don't think it can get any better. The ELB succesfuly does the cyclone effect of micing these herbs for you, unlike EQ which claims to do it but imo fails in that just getting them out of the hot air stream which is not that uniform either. When it gets stuck up there its good to simply take it out and shake it a bit to dislodge and mix it. It will take further in a session a bit, probably another reason why my bowl are cached so fast and evenly. Don't mix/stir the ELB in the unit, it may be a tiny bit simplier, but I've observed it will make the unit dirty by particles very fast.

 

[Anonymouse]

One thing I have thought about is the Infra Red (IR) reflection once the Cloud gets "hot" We all know vapor production "changes" once the Cloud has been on a while. My theory is, and I'm probably wrong, is that IR reflections from the shell, and even the GonG itself, fuck with the temps involved and may cause premature dessication of the cellulose substrate, thus degrading flavor. Thermal mass is important but where to keep it, and how much, is the question . . .

I'd put it down to the air temp inside the casing (around the bamboo) coming up to equilibrium point, at which point it's passing heat to the outside environment as fast as it's absorbing it from the heater. This will take a lot longer than it will take for the heater itself to come to vaping temp (green light), but it's at this point that the Cloud is running at maximum efficiency, since it's body is "saturated" with heat and so the highest possible percentage of the heater's output is going into the airstream rather than heating the unit itself.

I wouldn't expect direct radiation, reflections, or re-radiation to be significant, as the fact the temp is monitored by sensor would accomodate for this. Glass effectively is opaque to proper infra-red, anyway.

 

[t-dub]

Thank you for that, I live to learn something new every day, and you just got me through another one. Its is definitely "saturation" no doubt, you are correct. I have more mindless philosophy on ELB shape that I can embarrass myself with a later date. Cheers!

 

[Live-N-Learn]

I just want to start off by saying, I'm exceptionally stoned from this mornings test run with the Cloud.

So, I wake up this morning to see the ELBs were recovered from work and was delighted. I hit the switch on my cloud and turned on the video camera, for I knew I didnt have too long before I was incapable of doing so.

Anywho, here is a quick video of my initial morning wake and vape with the Cloud. I could've cut my nails to look pretty but didnt care to do so, those are the raw paws. Enjoy.

Question: Why did the lights blink green when I put it in the matrix?

 

[CentiZen]

It must be expressing it's happiness to be paired with such a nice piece of glass.

 

[Live-N-Learn]

Things I've learned from this mornings test run:

1.The HOT on the silver pieces next to the top of the bamboo really gets hot. Do not touch it!
2. The ELB is a pain in the ass to get out, and I'm afraid of getting burned.

How do you guys get the ELB out. I'm happy I got long nails I had to pry it out from every angle. Sheesh, then I burned my finger trying to position my hand in a way to leverage the ELB out. Live N Learn, oh well.

Update: After about 40 minutes with the Cloud on, the black shell got hot, not burning hot, but hot enough for me to say, wow this is pretty hot.

 

[momofthegoons]

You might want to "train" your ELB's before using them if they are that tight. One thing many members have found works well in removing the ELB is the Epik (which can be found here).

 

[Live-N-Learn]

You might want to "train" your ELB's before using them if they are that tight. One thing many members have found works well in removing the ELB is the Epik (which can be found here).

Awesome. Will grab me one now. Thanks.

 

[m0sh]

You might want to "train" your ELB's before using them if they are that tight. One thing many members have found works well in removing the ELB is the Epik (which can be found here).

When I had a cloud I had no problems removing the ELB but if so I'd use my fingernails scissors ... while this is cool you can save your 4USD IMO.

 

[momofthegoons]

When I had a cloud I had no problems removing the ELB but if so I'd use my fingernails scissors ... while this is cool you can save your 4USD IMO.

Absolutely true.

But... being the vapor accessory addict that I am, I love all the neat little gadgets you can get.

 

[max]

1.The HOT on the silver pieces next to the top of the bamboo really gets hot. Do not touch it!

Are you also the type to push a button labeled 'Do not press!!'?

2. The ELB is a pain in the ass to get out, and I'm afraid of getting burned.

'Lever' it up a little on opposite sides and it's easy to lift out (at least mine is). I'd say it's more of a slight aggravation than a pain. And you won't get burned (at least I don't). The housing gets a lot hotter than the joint.

 

[b0]

Yesterday I found something weird in the cuts of the Hydracirc in my Swagger HT. At first I think it was "dirt" and tried cleaning it with iso+salt with no luck, then tried PBW and after that a soak in vinegar. I tried to take good pics for you, but it's really dificult (at least for me). Here are 3 pics with the problem in red circles (click in the pics to see bigger ones):

I'm no expert about glass, but the cuts in my other pieces doesn't have that. It seem like there is some erosion or abrasion in there, it's weird. Is this normal? Do you think it's safe to use this? I ask because I read in other post about glass micro particles and how bad they are for our lungs
Should I ask for a change because the piece is defective or just use it and enjoy because this is normal and I don't have to care about it?

Let me know guys, yesterday I tried to "clean" it with everything I know, but I'm pretty sure that's not dirt and want to know if I should change the piece because is defective or everything is fine and can use it without worries.

 

[VaporEyes]

I'm no expert about glass, but the cuts in my other pieces doesn't have that. It seem like there is some erosion or abrasion in there, it's weird. Is this normal? Do you think it's safe to use this? I ask because I read in other post about glass micro particles and how bad they are for our lungs
Should I ask for a change because the piece is defective or just use it and enjoy because this is normal and I don't have to care about it?

Let me know guys, yesterday I tried to "clean" it with everything I know, but I'm pretty sure that's not dirt and want to know if I should change the piece because is defective or everything is fine and can use it without worries.

Those look to be abrasions caused by the cutting of the glass. I think the slits are fire-polished after cutting so there shouldn't(not to say there isn't) be anything to worry about.

 

[b0]

Those look to be abrasions caused by the cutting of the glass. I think the slits are fire-polished after cutting so there shouldn't(not to say there isn't) be anything to worry about.

Thanks for your answer Indeed they look like abrasions, but I never saw this in my other pieces (I only have 3 pieces) so I wanted to be sure if this is normal and safe

Asked here too to see if someone with a Swagger Hydracirc like mine has the same abrasions and I don't have to worry about it being defective or if I will have to open a ticket to ask for a change.

 

[stonemonkey55]

Thanks for your answer Indeed they look like abrasions, but I never saw this in my other pieces (I only have 3 pieces) so I wanted to be sure if this is normal and safe

Asked here too to see if someone with a Swagger Hydracirc like mine has the same abrasions and I don't have to worry about it being defective or if I will have to open a ticket to ask for a change.

b0 - VsporEyes is correct, these slits were not flame polished. A few years ago, there was a debate as to whether to flame polish or not. Proponents of flame polishing liked the more finished look. Opponents of flame polishing say that the rougher edges add to the diffusion. It is a preferential thing but if you want to exchange it, let us know.

 

[b0]

b0 - VsporEyes is correct, these slits were not flame polished. A few years ago, there was a debate as to whether to flame polish or not. Proponents of flame polishing liked the more finished look. Opponents of flame polishing say that the rougher edges add to the diffusion. It is a preferential thing but if you want to exchange it, let us know.

I'm still a noob about glass pieces, so if you assure me that this is normal and not defective I don't have any problem with it. I really like my Swagger, it's my favorite HT so if it's safe I don't need any exchange and will keep it.

Thanks for taking your time to answer SM, nice to see you around!

 

[Live-N-Learn]

Are you also the type to push a button labeled 'Do not press!!'?

'Lever' it up a little on opposite sides and it's easy to lift out (at least mine is). I'd say it's more of a slight aggravation than a pain. And you won't get burned (at least I don't). The housing gets a lot hotter than the joint.

I had to to take a nap after earlier, but I'm up and I'm going right back at it!

If the button was RED, I probably would press the button. and to my defense I was half awake and pretty ripped when I tried removing that ELB, and did get aggravated, which led me to think I was in full control of my movements when I beasted to remove the ELB in one fluent motion, which obviously didnt work.

 

[max]

if you assure me that this is normal and not defective I don't have any problem with it.

It's not normal but it's not 'functionally defective'.

... I was half awake and pretty ripped when I tried removing that ELB, and did get aggravated, which led me to think I was in full control of my movements when I beasted to remove the ELB in one fluent motion, which obviously didnt work.

What would be nice is a washer (ideally really thin around the inside part) you could drop the elb in. It would provide a nice lip/extension, making for easy elb removal.