Discontinued VapeXhale Cloud EVO

[gaseous_clay]

Wondering if this is a new thing, or something with my new EVO, so question for those with newer units...

My old EVO had a strong LED. When it was on, you knew it was on in most lighting. When it was red, you saw red. When it was green, it was green. When it went auto-shutoff, it was clearly going red/green.

My new EVO's LED seems very weak. It has to be dim lighting to see colors. Even when it is dark it is difficult to see when it has went auto-shutoff, as the color seems to be more of a light green/yellowish green rotation which is barely noticable. I actually have mistaken both auto-shutoff for on and on for auto-shutoff.

New unit people... how strong is your LED colors?

Why did you buy a new one?

Didn't buy one. It's a warranty exchange after mine had an overheating problem. They were great about taking care of it though, so all is cool! Just wondering if the LED is like this on all now.

They might be able to get me to buy a new one (during a kick-ass sale) if they offered different color LED's though. I want Blue/Purple! LOL

 

[malsanti]

Mine is also very dim and cannot be seen well in strong lighting. Still, it tends to be enough, and when it isn't just cup my hand around it, if need be. Why did you buy a new one?

 

[waxdab23]

Wondering if this is a new thing, or something with my new EVO, so question for those with newer units...

My old EVO had a strong LED. When it was on, you knew it was on in most lighting. When it was red, you saw red. When it was green, it was green. When it went auto-shutoff, it was clearly going red/green.

My new EVO's LED seems very weak. It has to be dim lighting to see colors. Even when it is dark it is difficult to see when it has went auto-shutoff, as the color seems to be more of a light green/yellowish green rotation which is barely noticable. I actually have mistaken both auto-shutoff for on and on for auto-shutoff.

New unit people... how strong is your LED colors?

Purchased mine a couple months or so ago and LED is visible in normally lighted room.

Before I purchased though I remember watching a review video that complained of the LED not being very bright, and not easy to notice. So maybe it's a hit and miss thing.

 

[ataxian]

Sweet , looks nice to me. I use pbw ( powdered brewery wash ) stuff works very well . Makes it easy to clean .

I used one (pbw) until a manufacturer told me what he uses!

 

[2 Cycle]

I'm learning how to clean glass.

You are much better than I.

This chemical is not bad at all.

I wanted to have clean glass to enjoy my EVO.
My ASH COLLECTORS and SHERLOCKS are soaking!

Nice glass collection there Ataxian! Pretty sure I have 3 of those, the FC UFO, d020, and FC mouthpiece. You mentioned stacking the FC UFO, do you use the FC mouthpiece on top with 18mm male male adapter? Just curious what setup you prefer. I have that capability but have not tried for some reason lol

 

[m0sh]

So ...
I'm quite so happy.

Sent my EVO to VF for fixing.
Ordered from VF a new EVO.
Currently have a EVO on loan from a dear friend.

Can it get any better ?

 

[Simplicius]

Ordered from VF a new EVO.

Why the new one though? ^^

 

[Simplicius]

Guys, what does green blinking mean? I had it turned on for maybe 25 minutes, then decided that I wanted to reset the timer and just turned it off and on again, then it proceeded to blink green. I'm sure it's some normal indicator I don't know of, but I still got scared and turned it off.

 

[Pyr0]

Guys, what does green blinking mean? I had it turned on for maybe 25 minutes, then decided that I wanted to reset the timer and just turned it off and on again, then it proceeded to blink green. I'm sure it's some normal indicator I don't know of, but I still got scared and turned it off.

Was the dial set above 1:30 when you power cycled it?
I believe the flashing green lights are an overheat protection thing.
I posted about it a few days ago..
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/vapexhale-cloud-evo.11357/page-508#post-987760

Give it a minute or so and it will switch back on again normally.

 

[Seek]

Guys, what does green blinking mean? I had it turned on for maybe 25 minutes, then decided that I wanted to reset the timer and just turned it off and on again, then it proceeded to blink green. I'm sure it's some normal indicator I don't know of, but I still got scared and turned it off.

Yes, as Pyr0 said, its overheat protection. My new EVO does it exactly as my old one. Whenevew the actual temp is above 1:30 when you start it up, it will go directly into this exception mode and you have to wait for it to cool down below 1:30 to make it heat again. Usually up to two minutes of waiting. If you want to reset timer quickly, do it on lower temps.

New unit people... how strong is your LED colors?

Random. That's all I could say right now, I've had one OG cloud and 3 EVOs. All of them varied in ther red/green intesity.
One had a weak red, one had a weak green and the newest one (that I got recently as a replacement) has both of them strong.
Also I think it may be possible that they will get weaker over time, probably the LED themselves getting weaker and/or the bamboo glass getting slightly dirty so it would absord some of the light.

Another change I noticed is that each of these 4 clouds I had had different bamboo designs. I believe these were all the esigns they've cycled through and I've experienced them all (if there were more, then tell me).
The changes were in the positions of the restrictions and I believe it's making a large impact on the performance of the unit.
Here is my theory:
The top part of the bamboo is the heat exchanger, that's where the heater is at and where the temps is highest.
The bottom part is the preheater, there is still a lot of heat for the air to collect, but not to the dialed temp. It can preheat so the heat exchanger at the top will do less work and retain heat better.
Also, the preheater is the part that gradually gets heated up more and your unit "soaks heat". The exchanger at the top is at constant temp from the point the unit hits green.

Straight, non-restricted parts of the bamboo exchange heat best at slow draws as there is more time to exchange the heat.
Curved, restricted parts (escpecially "chambers" consisting of two restrictions next to each other) are better at exchanging heat when you pull fast as there is more air turbulence and more "violent" heat exchange.

The OG cloud has 3 restrictions (2 chambers) at the top part. So it was best at giving you clouds from hard rip even at fresh start without heat soaking it.
And it was not clouding at slow draws, I could get a lungfull of air by pulling slowly throught it, yet whitewall when I pull faster - something very uncommon for vapes.
Also it didn't accept vapeXnails.

The first EVO was a complete reverse. It had 3 restrictions (2 chambers) at the bottom.
So this one didn't perform as powerfully at fresh start and was giving hotter temp as slow draws (even combusting at extremes).
Fat draws got more cloudy as the unit heat soaked - the fast pull exchanging chambers at the bottom slowly got up to temp.
It probably had very good heat retention because of its focus on preheating.

My second EVO had one restriction moved top the top and 2 remain at the bottom.
I liked this one, it was more balanced, but still a lot like the first EVO.

The one I got recently had et another bamboo redesing, this time 2 restrictions at the top and one at the bottom.
And I think this is so fat the best performing and the best balanced one. Slow or fast pull, it seems to whitewall and taste equally on both.
I think this desing is the best compromise of the OG cloud bamboo and early EVO bamboo, taking and combining all of their benefits while balancing the downsides.
Its ready when it hits green and clouds on fast draws (thanks to the 2 restrictions on the top) AND it clouds on slow draws and accepts vapeXnail(thanks to a bit of restriction-less are at the top).

Here is my drawing of bamboos I've observed in these 4 clouds:

 

[Simplicius]

Ok makes sense, I have it at 2. Didn't think that would already be considered as overheating, but I guess it's good for the thing to have safety features.

 

[newVaper420]

The first EVO was a complete reverse. It had 3 restrictions (2 chambers) at the bottom.
So this one didn't perform as powerfully at fresh start and was giving hotter temp as slow draws (even combusting at extremes).
Fat draws got more cloudy as the unit heat soaked - the fast pull exchanging chambers at the bottom slowly got up to temp.
It probably had very good heat retention because of its focus on preheating.

Wow didn't realize they had different cloud bamboos. I'm still on the first EVO design then. No combustion here ever (with normal use. The other day a stem got in the bamboo by itself. That combusted, LOL).

 

[virtualpurple]

Guys, can we have a moment of silence for my EVO hydratube?

I have been rocking the EVO I purchased from @Shrike awhile back with its straight hydratube. Last night my old pit/mastiff mix tripped on the cord and sent the whole unit with glass tumbling down.

It looks like only the bottom is broke out of the hydratube, and the percs or slits on the inside appear fully intact. Is this something I could likely get repaired?

The evo itself felt wet from the broken hydratube but I'm not sure if it caused any internal damage.

My poor dog looked so scared at first and that quickly turned into a look of shame. I love that piece and the Evo but I surely can't get mad at poor Solomon!

 

[Cannabis Connoisseur]

Yes, as Pyr0 said, its overheat protection. My new EVO does it exactly as my old one. Whenevew the actual temp is above 1:30 when you start it up, it will go directly into this exception mode and you have to wait for it to cool down below 1:30 to make it heat again. Usually up to two minutes of waiting. If you want to reset timer quickly, do it on lower temps.

Random. That's all I could say right now, I've had one OG cloud and 3 EVOs. All of them varied in ther red/green intesity.
One had a weak red, one had a weak green and the newest one (that I got recently as a replacement) has both of them strong.
Also I think it may be possible that they will get weaker over time, probably the LED themselves getting weaker and/or the bamboo glass getting slightly dirty so it would absord some of the light.

Another change I noticed is that each of these 4 clouds I had had different bamboo designs. I believe these were all the esigns they've cycled through and I've experienced them all (if there were more, then tell me).
The changes were in the positions of the restrictions and I believe it's making a large impact on the performance of the unit.
Here is my theory:
The top part of the bamboo is the heat exchanger, that's where the heater is at and where the temps is highest.
The bottom part is the preheater, there is still a lot of heat for the air to collect, but not to the dialed temp. It can preheat so the heat exchanger at the top will do less work and retain heat better.
Also, the preheater is the part that gradually gets heated up more and your unit "soaks heat". The exchanger at the top is at constant temp from the point the unit hits green.

Straight, non-restricted parts of the bamboo exchange heat best at slow draws as there is more time to exchange the heat.
Curved, restricted parts (escpecially "chambers" consisting of two restrictions next to each other) are better at exchanging heat when you pull fast as there is more air turbulence and more "violent" heat exchange.

The OG cloud has 3 restrictions (2 chambers) at the top part. So it was best at giving you clouds from hard rip even at fresh start without heat soaking it.
And it was not clouding at slow draws, I could get a lungfull of air by pulling slowly throught it, yet whitewall when I pull faster - something very uncommon for vapes.
Also it didn't accept vapeXnails.

The first EVO was a complete reverse. It had 3 restrictions (2 chambers) at the bottom.
So this one didn't perform as powerfully at fresh start and was giving hotter temp as slow draws (even combusting at extremes).
Fat draws got more cloudy as the unit heat soaked - the fast pull exchanging chambers at the bottom slowly got up to temp.
It probably had very good heat retention because of its focus on preheating.

My second EVO had one restriction moved top the top and 2 remain at the bottom.
I liked this one, it was more balanced, but still a lot like the first EVO.

The one I got recently had et another bamboo redesing, this time 2 restrictions at the top and one at the bottom.
And I think this is so fat the best performing and the best balanced one. Slow or fast pull, it seems to whitewall and taste equally on both.
I think this desing is the best compromise of the OG cloud bamboo and early EVO bamboo, taking and combining all of their benefits while balancing the downsides.
Its ready when it hits green and clouds on fast draws (thanks to the 2 restrictions on the top) AND it clouds on slow draws and accepts vapeXnail(thanks to a bit of restriction-less are at the top).

Here is my drawing of bamboos I've observed in these 4 clouds:

I completely agree! I've had all these! I immediately noticed when the units returned from repair. The difference was very evident but AWESOME

 

[t-dub]

The top part of the bamboo is the heat exchanger, that's where the heater is at and where the temps is highest. The bottom part is the preheater, there is still a lot of heat for the air to collect, but not to the dialed temp. It can preheat so the heat exchanger at the top will do less work and retain heat better. Also, the preheater is the part that gradually gets heated up more and your unit "soaks heat". The exchanger at the top is at constant temp from the point the unit hits green.

Sorry but no. The heater coil is up where you say however there is no pre heater or anything it just gets down to business with one massive coil. The lower half is the electronics bay. I have pics of the internals but am not sure I should post them.

 

[His_Highness]

Wondering if this is a new thing, or something with my new EVO, so question for those with newer units...

My old EVO had a strong LED. When it was on, you knew it was on in most lighting. When it was red, you saw red. When it was green, it was green. When it went auto-shutoff, it was clearly going red/green.

My new EVO's LED seems very weak. It has to be dim lighting to see colors. Even when it is dark it is difficult to see when it has went auto-shutoff, as the color seems to be more of a light green/yellowish green rotation which is barely noticable. I actually have mistaken both auto-shutoff for on and on for auto-shutoff.

New unit people... how strong is your LED colors?

I'm new to the EVO so I can't comment on previous versions of the EVO and their LED strength. I have noticed that when the standard mouthpiece is on the unit I have to dim the lights to see the color emanate from under the mouthpiece. Take the mouthpiece off and I can see the color clearly. Not strobe light blinding clarity but there's no mistaking the color. I also notice that the angle has a lot to do with the color strength....looking from a top down/verticle angle adds clarity while looking at a horizontal/straight angle and it's less clear. I'm color blind too and I think that adds to the lack of clarity.

 

[t-dub]

The LEDs are just on the circuit board in the bottom electronics bay. The light "leaks" up from there.

 

[ataxian]

Nice glass collection there Ataxian! Pretty sure I have 3 of those, the FC UFO, d020, and FC mouthpiece. You mentioned stacking the FC UFO, do you use the FC mouthpiece on top with 18mm male male adapter? Just curious what setup you prefer. I have that capability but have not tried for some reason lol

I only have 20 water pipes and 5 ASH COLLECTORS JHOOKS I clean 5 a week to rotate.

I believe @Justpassedu and @Cannabis Connoisseur dwarf my stuff.

My vaporizer collection is collecting dust.

I use EVO, NANO, SOLO the most.
My HERB IRON is better than any vaporizers however my wife hid it? (she think's I cough with it)

JOINTS are the most practical however I'm spoiled by FLAVOR from vaporizing!

What I like doesn't translate to what other's like.

LARGE CAN = DESK TOP
MEDIUM CAN = LOG
BUBBLER or SMALL = PORTABLES (VERY LAME TO ME)

I'll take some photo's after I have my FRENCH ROAST and first session.

Some of the CHINESE glass has some play in the joints. By wrapping a MALE adapter with TEFLON tape (plumbers tape) I make a stronger seal. They most likely use a 18mm MALE fitting to make their FEMALE for the HYDROTUBES or MOUTHPIECES. My CALIFORNIA CUSTOM glass seals better.
In CALIFORNIA we use the vaporizer to make a part. I've seen ARTIST build stuff without a measurement! JIG's are a more precise way to build something!

 

[Shrike]

Guys, can we have a moment of silence for my EVO hydratube?

I have been rocking the EVO I purchased from @Shrike awhile back with its straight hydratube. Last night my old pit/mastiff mix tripped on the cord and sent the whole unit with glass tumbling down.

It looks like only the bottom is broke out of the hydratube, and the percs or slits on the inside appear fully intact. Is this something I could likely get repaired?

The evo itself felt wet from the broken hydratube but I'm not sure if it caused any internal damage.

My poor dog looked so scared at first and that quickly turned into a look of shame. I love that piece and the Evo but I surely can't get mad at poor Solomon!

So sorry, VP. Loved that HydraCirc. That thing was built like a tank but alas, is not invulnerable.
I'm sure someone on here can recommend a glass expert that may be able to fix it.

I will have two fingers of Ron Zacapa rum in honor of the HydraCirc today. But I will leave hope for its resurrection...

 

[Seek]

t-dub: Yes, there is no "active" preheater. But just as the heat from the heater goes up to the joint, it will also go down. The part I call preheater is just a part of the bamboo, that can get hot from the heat going down the glass, but not inside the heater yet. By placing a restriction in the bottom part, you will introduce some turbulence there to collect that heat so the heater has to work less and will retain more heat.

 

[Maitri]

Guys, can we have a moment of silence for my EVO hydratube?

I have been rocking the EVO I purchased from @Shrike awhile back with its straight hydratube. Last night my old pit/mastiff mix tripped on the cord and sent the whole unit with glass tumbling down.

It looks like only the bottom is broke out of the hydratube, and the percs or slits on the inside appear fully intact. Is this something I could likely get repaired?

The evo itself felt wet from the broken hydratube but I'm not sure if it caused any internal damage.

My poor dog looked so scared at first and that quickly turned into a look of shame. I love that piece and the Evo but I surely can't get mad at poor Solomon!

I am sorry to learn about your EVO. I hope you can get that resolved quickly.

And for what it is worth, your love and compassion for your dog inspired me. Thank you.

 

[GameEnders]

Have you tired the 'cover the bottom hole of the bamboo and blow into the top' to see if the bamboo is airtight or if there is a crack?

Damnit good suggestion, thank you. It is not airtight, blow, suck, air keeps flowing. Restricted and mines working ok. Never dropped it, I baby that thing and put it away when not in use. Guess I'll rock it for the 4th of July week since it still works pretty well, though it does seem a little hotter than when I first got it, then work with VX.

 

[Justpassedu]

I only have 20 water pipes and 5 ASH COLLECTORS JHOOKS I clean 5 a week to rotate.

I believe @Justpassedu and @Cannabis Connoisseur dwarf my stuff.

My vaporizer collection is collecting dust.

I use EVO, NANO, SOLO the most.
My HERB IRON is better than any vaporizers however my wife hid it? (she think's I cough with it)

JOINTS are the most practical however I'm spoiled by FLAVOR from vaporizing!

What I like doesn't translate to what other's like.

LARGE CAN = DESK TOP
MEDIUM CAN = LOG
BUBBLER or SMALL = PORTABLES (VERY LAME TO ME)

I'll take some photo's after I have my FRENCH ROAST and first session.

Some of the CHINESE glass has some play in the joints. By wrapping a MALE adapter with TEFLON tape (plumbers tape) I make a stronger seal. They most likely use a 18mm MALE fitting to make their FEMALE for the HYDROTUBES or MOUTHPIECES. My CALIFORNIA CUSTOM glass seals better.
In CALIFORNIA we use the vaporizer to make a part. I've seen ARTIST build stuff without a measurement! JIG's are a more precise way to build something!

I don't have much glass these days , maybe about 7 pieces mostly from medium to large size. I been selling off and giving away to friends my cheaper glass I don't use much. My girl is starting to think I am some mad scientist. Plus I only use my favorites these day's anyway. I do have a nice vape collection but no matter what I use the Evo is my favorite of them all and will always be the champ until something out there can beat it , that means better vapor production , Small size and dual purpose of being able to do concentrate easy and flowers. I do like my portables for bedtime TV watching or if I am out at the beach where I cant get to a power source , even bring them to friends when we bbq. Glass usually always stays at home along with the desktops and I very ever rarely use my glass with my portables , I just think it defeats the purpose of it being a portable imo. I do know some love to and I respect that and understand it , I just personally could never get into it. I do however occasionally take my pen I use for wax and place it under a hydratube when I hit it if I am home and just need a quick high.

 

[Simplicius]

I find that when I fill a whole ELB it doesn't make much of a difference if I go 12-1 o'clock or around 3 it always extracts everything in 1-2 big satisfying hits. I like that, but I still wondered why that is, because I thought there should be a clear difference. There's only a slight difference in smoothness of the hit.

 

[Justpassedu]

I find that when I fill a whole ELB it doesn't make much of a difference if I go 12-1 o'clock or around 3 it always extracts everything in 1-2 big satisfying hits. I like that, but I still wondered why that is, because I thought there should be a clear difference. There's only a slight difference in smoothness of the hit.

I have the opposite , maybe you need to send your Evo in and have your temps checked. At 12 I get anywhere from 4-7 hits , if I bump up to 3 I can extract all in about 2-3 hits. This is with a half full elbow or 75% full, try to not fill the elb all the way. The Evo seems to work better at 50-75% packed. Also dependent on draw speed , your material quality and the dryness of it. There is many things that can contribute to this , even your draw speed.