Justpassedu
Well-Known Member
It should do the trick , nice ultra sonic cleaner I gotta get me one of those. Maybe I can tell my girl it's good to have for her ring to clean when we get engaged which is soon .
Discontinued VapeXhale Cloud EVO
- Thread starter stonemonkey55
- Start date
temps and herb quality dependant imho
I milk my turbine or my bubbler with decent herbs. I run my EVO with the dial at 1:30-2ish but always wait for it to heatsoak for a while so the body feels hot before using.
THE GHOST
Into the vapor
I am going to be purchasing a whip and a few other pieces to pull through. Maybe I will get some videos up and we can do a vape technique breakdown and let me know if I am missing something? New to the vape world, so I am sure there is a learning curve. Thanks guys n gals. - Ghost
2 Cycle
Well-Known Member
I have been praising this unit with the evo for a while now. Cleans glass and elbs back to factory. I usually put things in plastic bags with some iso and 480 seconds later you rinse them off and they look new. Works for me!
CuckFumbustion
Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
Use this Castleford pipe reamer to fix bent basket screens simular to @Justpassedu 's eraser end technique. The oval end has reshaped several EQ baskets several times. The scraper even has a serrated edge to it. I put the ovel end in the basket end at an angle then turn the end to push out the screen walls. Could stretch an EQ basket to fit an 19mm socket. Also Puffitup sells these BOUNDLESS DRY POD for the CFX. Wonder if they'd work in an EVO?
TboneToker
Well-Known Member
I am using any temp from 10:30 on the dial and higher not a HT but a sovereignty natty splash king upgridded gline, though I consider her a Queen
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thinking of grabbing an EVO sometime soon. I know hydratube Qs get asked alot, but more than flavor or flow or whatever I was just wondering which outta the turbine and hydrabomb can do the biggest hits. I dont know if more flow (hydrabomb) means more vapor, or less flow means you can inhale for a longer amount of time and get more vapor in a breathe (turbine), or wether youll pretty much get the same kinda single hits from both
CuckFumbustion
Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
O.K. So i'm playing with the dial more. It turns hard which is good for fine tuning. You don't have to really fiddle with it more than say 5 times an ELB. But yes it turns hard.
Trying to hold the unit with one hand and turn it quickly with the other. So If I set my temp and I know it will take a while to catch up. I can dial it back quickly until it reaches green somewhere on the clock then quickly turn it back to that desired temp again. Then count the seconds till green. Once I got good with turning the knob 3x fast, I could make out how fast the unit was ramping up by where the light would switch from red <->green.
The indicator light seems very responsive. Sometime when it is at the cusp of was dialed in earlier, it will flicker from red to green for a brief second. Was that a feature or should it be?
I like it when it does as an indicator. The flashing shut off timer seems to give me at least a 1m warning before going off. What is the duration for that?
The pass thru heat is amazing! I can heat up my EQ glass as if. The @DDave tall adapter heats up real well and the screen is great for catching larger particles. Then I heat up the adapter and get vapor from that. I like a little more heat above the ELB and have enough of the choosy parts from the EQ to work with.
The ELB fits inside some of the 19mm and other odd glass that I have and can have it above the EVO.
Using the pipe reamer more with the ELBs. I will still need to ISO to get them nice. But it does break up and break off the more fused particles on the sides and bottom of the cap when I stir and break up the larger particles for another go.
Y'know this means more screen options, right? Have some EQ mini's that are now being shared with the other vape.
Trying to hold the unit with one hand and turn it quickly with the other. So If I set my temp and I know it will take a while to catch up. I can dial it back quickly until it reaches green somewhere on the clock then quickly turn it back to that desired temp again. Then count the seconds till green. Once I got good with turning the knob 3x fast, I could make out how fast the unit was ramping up by where the light would switch from red <->green.
The indicator light seems very responsive. Sometime when it is at the cusp of was dialed in earlier, it will flicker from red to green for a brief second. Was that a feature or should it be?
I like it when it does as an indicator. The flashing shut off timer seems to give me at least a 1m warning before going off. What is the duration for that?
The pass thru heat is amazing! I can heat up my EQ glass as if. The @DDave tall adapter heats up real well and the screen is great for catching larger particles. Then I heat up the adapter and get vapor from that. I like a little more heat above the ELB and have enough of the choosy parts from the EQ to work with.
The ELB fits inside some of the 19mm and other odd glass that I have and can have it above the EVO.Using the pipe reamer more with the ELBs. I will still need to ISO to get them nice. But it does break up and break off the more fused particles on the sides and bottom of the cap when I stir and break up the larger particles for another go.
You beat me to it @kellya86 with the homemade screens with good @DDave screens.I wasn't aware of this mod until your post, so thanks for that...
I just made a mini elb.....
Worked ok with just herb In it....
Its an eq basket with a squished @DDave basket...
Y'know this means more screen options, right? Have some EQ mini's that are now being shared with the other vape.
CuckFumbustion
Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
Did it again! You are getting clever with the EQ <-> EVO equation lately.
Going to warm up the EQ for tonite indeed.
Also trying this and that today. You saved me some time getting to the screens and the EQ at home is grateful from being treated like the older sibling.. 
It is getting an ELB to use too. And I can use the fan to set my water level.
EDIT - Warning Turning the fan off and on too quickly can cause water to backsplash into the dry half of the HD.
However you can perhaps dry your HD gently as an option. Just don't use a HD with water in the dry half in the EVO directly or where it can absorb heat. I only use A HD with the EVO and take it off and on without leaving it sitting on the heated unit out of habit. Others have been telling me to get in this habit/method before I found mine. 
Had 3 glass pieces going today. Gong from the EVO to the D020-d. 2x hose from the D020-d to the FCball. A 30 degree glass adapter between the mouthpiece ans the HD Turbo.
The D020-d was first in the chain because of less restriction. FCball with it's heavy base. The adapter and with some counter weight has the HT sitting on top. Just to see if it could be done. Wouldn't bother with this as a DD.
The smaller footprint setup - Have a lab glass 24/29 mm U-bend I bought on impulse. Didn't bother to check the size.
So with 2x 45 degree adapters and a few inches of silicone hose magic and I have a near GonG setup, (if the hose doesn't count) and the FCball sits up tight and hugs the EVO. The U-bend sits at an odd angle but everything is firm.
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TboneToker
Well-Known Member
Okay the one for the biggest hits, and I'm pretty sure it says this on the website is the Hydrabomb.
Draw-Bighits = Hydrabomb
Flavour = Turbine
Filtration = Honeycomb
OG tubes
Quick Clear = Hydratree / CirC
https://www.vapexhale.com/collections/hydratubes/products/vapexhale-hydrabomb
CuckFumbustion
Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
THE GHOST
Into the vapor
Did a test run with the temp at 10 o'clock position, and while pulling as hard as I could, I was barely able to get a good cloud to build up. Stirred my material and set dial at the 1 o'clock position, pulled again and instantly clouds built up. I even had to pull off and coughed my face off. Is 1 o'clock going to combust my material if I pull super hard? Does it matter how hard I pull with the dial in the 1 position? Will a harder pull cause combustion? Does it matter? Thanks! New Hydra bomb is being delivered tomorrow. Can't wait to test!
newVaper420
Vapor Enthusiast
You will instantly know you combusted. It will cherry and keep smoking. It's very easy. You can also taste it.
The density and colour of the vapour/smoke will look thicker and creamier.
The taste will be NASTY
The ELB will have a glow inside and continue to smoke.
After emptying, the herb will either look blackened or could even ignite.
Your Hydratube will need washing to remove the stench and taste.
If I combust now, I tend to leave the ELB in place in the EVO for a min or so as the reduced oxygen puts out the cherry and allows me to empty it without ignition.
The taste will be NASTY
The ELB will have a glow inside and continue to smoke.
After emptying, the herb will either look blackened or could even ignite.
Your Hydratube will need washing to remove the stench and taste.
If I combust now, I tend to leave the ELB in place in the EVO for a min or so as the reduced oxygen puts out the cherry and allows me to empty it without ignition.
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
Definitely no mistaking it:
1) The vapor color will sudenly very rapidly changer from transparent(as in you could see in SOME depth, not common to get your perc completeley hidden in vapor) white/blue to totally opaque gray/yellow
2) The taste of vapor is smooth-floral/fruity to popcorny-toasty, but nothing like the the taste of smoke, so it will taste like a bong hit
3) The HT will instantly get super dirty like from 50 vapor sessions. And it will start smelling like a used bong. If only vapor went throught, it usually has intesne popcorny ABV smell.
4) You could see the glowing cherry and your ELB will get permanently tainted to remind you it happened in it. Typically big black spot on the cap and sometimes on the upper sides of the mesh.
5) There will be ash in your ELB instead of only ABV. Black ashes look similar to extremely toasted ABV, but are more powdery and leaving soot on your fingers when you touch it. Gray ashes are unmistakeable, no ABV look like that.
1) The vapor color will sudenly very rapidly changer from transparent(as in you could see in SOME depth, not common to get your perc completeley hidden in vapor) white/blue to totally opaque gray/yellow
2) The taste of vapor is smooth-floral/fruity to popcorny-toasty, but nothing like the the taste of smoke, so it will taste like a bong hit
3) The HT will instantly get super dirty like from 50 vapor sessions. And it will start smelling like a used bong. If only vapor went throught, it usually has intesne popcorny ABV smell.
4) You could see the glowing cherry and your ELB will get permanently tainted to remind you it happened in it. Typically big black spot on the cap and sometimes on the upper sides of the mesh.
5) There will be ash in your ELB instead of only ABV. Black ashes look similar to extremely toasted ABV, but are more powdery and leaving soot on your fingers when you touch it. Gray ashes are unmistakeable, no ABV look like that.
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
I don't want to tell you what to do!
Most strains 12:15pm (GOLILOCKS)
Some MYSTO 1:00pm (A BIT DAMP)?
I tried 2:00pm however coughing is not my aim!
62% rH I strive for.
BOVEDA PACKS work.
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Ever since I got my EVO (first production run) I have used the "stickstones" method described by @t-dub a page or two back. Getting a good heat soak on the body makes a big difference, hence starting the unit at max and then when green dialing back to your desired vape setting, hitting when green again. My unit does best at 1-2pm. As a very general guideline (so this isn't a hard-and-fast rule), optimum airflow is just at the point of the whistle. While you can hit the EVO hard, and some prefer that, it isn't a requirement. If the unit is ready, a long steady pull near or at the whistle will usually produce a good result. The primer hit need only go to the point that vapor begins to form. Then the long steady pull. If you have a water piece with a lot of airflow, you won't see the same vapor density as it is passing quickly thru the piece into your lungs. A piece with more of an enclosed can (like, say, the Mobius Ion) will milk densely because the vapor fills faster than the flow-through. (I can't compare to any of the current HT's as I don't have one; I'm still using my Evolver HydraTree or my HydraLine.) I finish the pull doing the clear, leaving some room in my lungs to inhale some fresh air which pushes all the vapor all the way into my lungs (rather than leaving vapor in my mouth/throat).
Even pulling hard it is very unlikely you will combust at 1pm. But again, not necessary to pull that hard.
Btw, fwiw I find that less-is-more in loading the ELB. Loading it only about a quarter, no more than a third, will result in greater air turbulence inside the ELB, and with that greater extraction. I get more dense vapor with this size load. Also requires less pull.
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Socks And Sandals
Well-Known Member
Hey Evo fans something happened last Sat and I wanted to share,
I let my girl try my Evo for the first time last night and she accidently exhaled through my HT and I think it got into the unit. The bottom chamber of my Honeycomb HT was about 1/4 filled with water and there was just a tiny bit of dipping coming for the bamboo on the bottom. Because of the smell, I was thinking water may have got into the unit itself although I'm not too sure. To make matters worse... after she left, I went to clean my hydratube and you know what happened.... CRASH!
I just heated my Evo up (right this second literally) and it seems as if the smell is completely gone. The only problem is I don't have a HT, standard mouthpiece or any other glass to even test to see if the Evo still works or not. I would assume since it's definitely heating up as normal it may be ok but to be honest, this thing has been getting hotter and hotter and I've been meaning to send it in anyway.
I've also noticed that the 3 year anniversary sale ends the day after tomorrow... so I'm trying to weight my options here. I can:
1. Just buy a Standard Mouthpiece and/or new HT and wait till it arrives to test the Evo (this is going to be quicker than sending the unit in for repairs but if it's broken, it's going to take longer 4 sure)
2. Just say screw it and send the unit in for repair while ordering a new HT or mouthpiece (this will take longer to get the Evo back.. Hell, I'm sure I'll receive my new glass pieces before I get my repaired unit back)
3. Just go ahead and take advantage of the 3 year sale and get the Hydrabomb kit for $360 while still sending my evo in for repairs. (I really want to do this because now I fully understand the need of having a back up vape in times like this.. My choices are either combust or use the next few weeks as an excuse for a Tollerance Break. What's stopping me from doing this are the rumors of a new digital desktop Evo coming out along with a portable unit.)
Have any of you heard anything about a new digital version of the Evo coming out soon? What do you think I should do? If the rumor is true I'd much rather wait for the newer version of the Evo coming out. If I'm going to take advantage of that sale I need to decide in the next day or so.
Thanks for reading and thanks in advance.
Vape On!
I let my girl try my Evo for the first time last night and she accidently exhaled through my HT and I think it got into the unit. The bottom chamber of my Honeycomb HT was about 1/4 filled with water and there was just a tiny bit of dipping coming for the bamboo on the bottom. Because of the smell, I was thinking water may have got into the unit itself although I'm not too sure. To make matters worse... after she left, I went to clean my hydratube and you know what happened.... CRASH!
I just heated my Evo up (right this second literally) and it seems as if the smell is completely gone. The only problem is I don't have a HT, standard mouthpiece or any other glass to even test to see if the Evo still works or not. I would assume since it's definitely heating up as normal it may be ok but to be honest, this thing has been getting hotter and hotter and I've been meaning to send it in anyway.
I've also noticed that the 3 year anniversary sale ends the day after tomorrow... so I'm trying to weight my options here. I can:
1. Just buy a Standard Mouthpiece and/or new HT and wait till it arrives to test the Evo (this is going to be quicker than sending the unit in for repairs but if it's broken, it's going to take longer 4 sure)
2. Just say screw it and send the unit in for repair while ordering a new HT or mouthpiece (this will take longer to get the Evo back.. Hell, I'm sure I'll receive my new glass pieces before I get my repaired unit back)
3. Just go ahead and take advantage of the 3 year sale and get the Hydrabomb kit for $360 while still sending my evo in for repairs. (I really want to do this because now I fully understand the need of having a back up vape in times like this.. My choices are either combust or use the next few weeks as an excuse for a Tollerance Break. What's stopping me from doing this are the rumors of a new digital desktop Evo coming out along with a portable unit.)
Have any of you heard anything about a new digital version of the Evo coming out soon? What do you think I should do? If the rumor is true I'd much rather wait for the newer version of the Evo coming out. If I'm going to take advantage of that sale I need to decide in the next day or so.
Thanks for reading and thanks in advance.
Vape On!
t-dub
Vapor Sloth
No. Seibo has been against this from the beginning. It adds complexity, decreasing reliability, without much benefit.
Look down into your bamboo and see if there are any cracks in the glass down there. Better yet, allow Evo to cool down, place a finger over the bottom bamboo air inlet, then suck on the top to see if there are any air leaks. If you get air that means you have a crack somewhere and need a new bamboo.
Socks And Sandals
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply t-dub! So Seibo has gone on record then and said this? I tried what you said and it appears nothing is broken visually and it appears as if there are no leaks. Although I just requested an RMA I might actually wait to get my Hydrabomb first before sending it in.
It's still noticably hotter and while the burning smell did go away, there is still a hint of it. I think it might be a good time to clean the bamboo but I've never done it before and was always hesitant to because of being worried about getting iso into the unit. Is the proper way just to plug both ends of the bamboo with those 2 red plugs that came with our Evo's and shake it with ISO? Just want to be sure, thanks for your help!