VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
How funny. $12.99 from them and $14 from Amazon. Retail Plus. Gotta love it.

Another reminder not to assume Amazon has the best price. Tho it would ship free from there...

$7.99 after discounts at ebags.com, plus $6 shipping...
-------------------
Just FYI, if you care you may want to use tinypic.com or other photo hoster. IMGUR is broken on this website as they have blacklisted us.
 
Last edited:

nachooo

Well-Known Member
https://i.imgur.com/a6NQc2c.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gWc3Dk3.jpg

here is what I am thinking:

6tlm5j.jpg


2d96yi9.jpg




a6NQc2c.jpg


gWc3Dk3.jpg
Sadly that lipo if is only 370 mah will allow only to have about 4 sessions...
 
nachooo,

samlant

New Member
Received my soldering station today, started de-soldering components and it was going well
90txxc.jpg

until I attempted to remove the transistors. . . .
1z2et05.jpg

16c3rt3.jpg

How the heck are you supposed to remove the transistors???? :huh: Theyre like glued in on the board!!:bang:
 
Last edited:
samlant,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Yes, it's the FETs are gone. The reason is most likely quality issues but look for cold solders as well.
I've gotten use to changing them. Twist those big coils as much as they will go so you can access the legs. Use hot iron with needle tip in good condition and put under each leg and prey up until lifts off the board. The good news is that the solder bath is so bad they lift easy. Once the two legs are lifted, heat behind the heat sink at the other end. Again with hot iron. Applying a tad of solder will speed up the process. Apply side force until it slips off it's location.
Solder in new ones. I wedge under the big coil and use the coil to hold in place while I dab solder on the legs. Then solder the heat sink portion back on. Clean up and check work before firing.
Also, remember to never fire up without the work coil installed.

Just google specs for NTG4806NG. I'm sure DigiKey or alike will have them.

Good luck! ;)
 
Pipes,
  • Like
Reactions: samlant

samlant

New Member
Thanks for that, I spent a couple days on this thread and only made it to page 12 lol, sooooo much info here. I appreciate you for digging this out.

I have done quite a bit of research and referenced your photo collection as much as I can, and have sketched a few detailed schematics. Are these valid? Thinking of wiring two inputs (LiPo battery and DC Power supply brick) that could be used depending on situation and preference. Wondering if these are proper/correct?
25kou9y.jpg


Just google specs for NTG4806NG. I'm sure DigiKey or alike will have them.
I am having trouble finding any of those: eBay, Digikey, Fry's, Amazon, even DHgate and aliexpress didnt have them, except for this:
NTD4806NG
Datasheet

EDIT: I saw your post where you linked to these. All good :rockon:
 
Last edited by a moderator:

frankbhelger

Active Member
Sadly that lipo if is only 370 mah will allow only to have about 4 sessions...

Yep, I am ok with that. This is not going to be for the full day, or even a long evening. I have other devices that will give me a week of run time. This is the one that fits in a pocket when I take the dog for a walk. I got my first click with the 370mah battery last night.

2ngfnzo.jpg
 

nachooo

Well-Known Member
Yep, I am ok with that. This is not going to be for the full day, or even a long evening. I have other devices that will give me a week of run time. This is the one that fits in a pocket when I take the dog for a walk. I got my first click with the 370mah battery last night.

2ngfnzo.jpg
Very nice done. I am doing my second device right now...And probably I will do other one… This is becoming addictive...one mini device very portable..other with a bigger lipo...and finally a desktop one…

As making this wonderful things more Little is my main concern now...I even think in having a very Little lipo inside (500-1000 mah) and some more precharged (with a lipo special protection cover) , designing it in a way that changing the lipo would be easy and quick…

Anyway..I am thinking also in desoldering the inductors and capacitors...to make it more compact...but I have never desolder anything...and I have to learn to do it…

Using the heat inductor made me use the vapcap over all other vaporizers… Think that dynavap should produce a new vaporizer designed specially for induction devices… maybe one with a bigger chamber Cause for me...there is a big difference between the torch and the inductor...using the last one the material last more and feels better….
Does anybody know if dynavap own inductor is ready? I am curious about how they are solving the issues that Pipes and others have been solved here :)
 

Gumball1

Member
@Pipes So my PSM is a great quality product. You have done a remarkable job with it. However I dislike having to "use technique" for it to work right. I click, wait to unclick so it heats. Then click again to apply additional gentle heat. Wait a few more seconds. Then wait more or go for a second click. Great burn, eh hits. But I forget where I am in the heating process, and have to start over. This is just one "technique" I have tried for an even burn based on suggestions given here. But I can throw that torch to it and get much better results for me.
My last thought of an option before I attempt to resale it is this. Is there enough room in the PSM so I can lower something to enable the tip of the Vap to be placed below and outside of the coil ring? My thought is if I can remove the heat from the part of the cap that clicks I can apply more constant heat before a click and get an efficient burn at the same time.

I have not disassembled yet, and wanted to ask first considering I may resale it. This is a well built product to anyone reading. Dont let my dislikes drive any decisions, please.
 

RUDE BOY

Space is the Place
@Pipes So my PSM is a great quality product. You have done a remarkable job with it. However I dislike having to "use technique" for it to work right. I click, wait to unclick so it heats. Then click again to apply additional gentle heat. Wait a few more seconds. Then wait more or go for a second click. Great burn, eh hits. But I forget where I am in the heating process, and have to start over. This is just one "technique" I have tried for an even burn based on suggestions given here.

I can't even understand how you're using the PSM but if you were to just heat 1-3 seconds past the click it had ought to be enough... first hit(heating cycle)may not give you giant clouds but after that it'll crank em out.
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
@Pipes So my PSM is a great quality product. You have done a remarkable job with it. However I dislike having to "use technique" for it to work right. I click, wait to unclick so it heats. Then click again to apply additional gentle heat. Wait a few more seconds. Then wait more or go for a second click. Great burn, eh hits. But I forget where I am in the heating process, and have to start over. This is just one "technique" I have tried for an even burn based on suggestions given here. But I can throw that torch to it and get much better results for me.
My last thought of an option before I attempt to resale it is this. Is there enough room in the PSM so I can lower something to enable the tip of the Vap to be placed below and outside of the coil ring? My thought is if I can remove the heat from the part of the cap that clicks I can apply more constant heat before a click and get an efficient burn at the same time.

I have not disassembled yet, and wanted to ask first considering I may resale it. This is a well built product to anyone reading. Dont let my dislikes drive any decisions, please.
Here is the procedure, but be very careful not to lose the little pieces.
Nice, very nice!!!

So I put together a video of how to remove and insert the height spacer.

@goodpunk6, I'm afraid your best option is to get a friend over with a big roach clip.... How do you live without tools? I'd die.

Careful not to drop the small pieces, if your like me that stuff disappears to an alternate dimension never to be seen again. :suspicious:
Sand the spacer down by 2 mils and re-insert. Test, oh and don't forget to be beside a strait wall. :p
bofc.png
 

Gumball1

Member
I can't even understand how you're using the PSM but if you were to just heat 1-3 seconds past the click it had ought to be enough... first hit(heating cycle)may not give you giant clouds but after that it'll crank em out.
Well the way I want to use it is push, click, hit, blow vapor, repeat. I get no vapor with that, or my second hit is royally roasted ABV if I go X seconds past the click on the first hit.
I need huge clouds, only way my lungs interpret a good hit. I take too large of hits I know, but habits are habits.
Thanks @Pipes I will give it a go.
 
Gumball1,

frankbhelger

Active Member
designing it in a way that changing the lipo would be easy and quick…

Anyway..I am thinking also in desoldering the inductors and capacitors...to make it more compact...but I have never desolder anything...and I have to learn :)

I have considered the removable battery aspect. I don't think I am going to mess with it in this version but I may down the road. If this was someone's primary device it would be pretty much required.

If you do get around to removing your inductors, let us know if there is any kind of performance change. I may not get another chance to play with this for several days.
 
frankbhelger,

MrMonss

Well-Known Member
Hi all,

Does the little light turn on when the charger is plugged in, everytime ?
I'm trying to diagnose a failure on my PS Mini, it's empty but impossible to load.
 
MrMonss,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Ensure you have the switch turned on to charge. Should be green when not charging and red while charging.
If you're having further difficulties, shoot me a PM. ;)
 

namasteIII

Well-Known Member
hey I'm blackening the wooden dowel at the bottom of the heater area with the extra time needed for concentrate use. Is that cool?
 
namasteIII,

little maggie

Well-Known Member
I'd like to get one of the induction heaters but, after looking at the pictures it looks very complicated. Are there any low tech versions?
 
little maggie,

obbo

New Member
Has anyone found a reliable supplier for the induction circuit? If I received one with reverse diodes etc I'd totally freak out.
 
obbo,

nachooo

Well-Known Member
Has anyone found a reliable supplier for the induction circuit? If I received one with reverse diodes etc I'd totally freak out.
I bought mine at the link Pipes wrote in his document..I mean banggood.. It was ok and has survived some over heat smoky moments….

I wonder if someone has try to run the zvs with a 7,4 lipo battery...The zvs is rated at 5V-12V so...it should work some way...and would a 7,4 lipo with a high amps like 2200 mah and high discharge something like 40C work like a 11,1V and 800 mah 20C lipo?

Thanks for reading
 
Last edited by a moderator:
nachooo,
Top Bottom