VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use

[Summer]

... but not so comfortable in a jeans pocket in the summer.

This is where a gunny/fanny pack comes in. It's perfect for carrying it around you hips & comfortable. And even an over-the-shoulder bag would work if that's a man style. There's a pic, I believe on this board (hopefully, not on the Dynavap thread ), of a guy at a party wearing the fanny pack. If someone remember's what member was in the pic, I could do a name search to find it. It was cool. He was wearing a fanny pack, '60s psychedelic tee, with a bandana I think, & he was flashing his PS in the gunny. A gunny would also be perfect for the PS Mini.

I would love to have had the PS mini instead of the PS because my usage is so low that I don't need that much energy reserve. The PS is overkill for me. And the mini's lighter & more compact. If I recall correctly the mini is not even 200 (157-something?) grams lighter & 60% smaller. Personally, with my usage, I can't justify owning both. Now the PS would be great for a weekend partyer, imo. (Anyone wanna swap? ).

I'm glad you're enjoying the building of it. For me, the learning of every step would overtax my poor brain intellectually & create unnecessary emotional angst. I'd get through it, probably successfully to-boot with a million questions , but it be a chore not a pleasure. As there's a time to create things, there's also a time to buy things & this is one of them.

 

[FlyingLow]

For those using lipos, what connectors are you using?

I have STACKS of small batteries from my Twisted Hobbies planes, and some new 75c graphines that just arrived for a hot 12s giant Extra.

 

[Stu]

This is where a gunny/fanny pack comes in. It's perfect for carrying it around you hips & comfortable. And even an over-the-shoulder bag would work if that's a man style. There's a pic, I believe on this board (hopefully, not on the Dynavap thread ), of a guy at a party wearing the fanny pack. If someone remember's what member was in the pic, I could do a name search to find it. It was cool. He was wearing a fanny pack, '60s psychedelic tee, with a bandana I think, & he was flashing his PS in the gunny. A gunny would also be perfect for the PS Mini.

That would be @stickstones. https://i.imgur.com/W895Adz.jpg

 

[Summer]

@Stu, it says 'the pic can't displayed because it contains errors.' Can you fix?

Edited to add: of course it had to be a member with > 12,000 posts. No way am I searching for that pic. My momma didn't raise no fool.

 

[rz]

@Copacetic rZToaster is still in the works! Though indeed, the little addition to the fam has required some extra attention, along with a lot of other things keeping me busy.. other kids.. aging parents.. work.. me.. I've had to do some stress management to stay sane, so development has slowed down, but by no means stopped I'm still trying to contribute where I can, on other folks DIY builds, the DV IH alpha team, and I've been talking to @Pipes a little bit too

regarding rZtoaster.. I'm still improving things there. For instance, I had squished all the IH parts together under space constraints, planning to rely on some external heat-sinking (~thermally coupled enclosure) to keep the MOSFETs alive if the unit gets pushed hard. It works with the heatsink, though it was too marginal, as in, MOSFETs would die without the heatsink even under single-user use. I've done some changes to give extra headroom, mainly move the MOSFETs away from the coil a little, and use MUCH better MOSFETs (Rds < 3mOhm even at lower driving voltages(no need for gate voltage boost for 2S? I hope..), better avalanche resilience, etc..)

Here's an interesting/relevant article: https://www.powerelectronictips.com/how-and-when-mosfets-blow-up/

And a side by side of some mockup screenshots older/newer design:

I haven't sent the newer design for PCB fab yet. I've been taking my time. Need to stay sane

Still not sure where all this is going yet.. but it's going I've also been playing with a simpler PCB deign, without built in battery protection / charging / gate drive boost (for 2S battery use) etc, though I hope and plan that you all eventually benefit somehow from my experimentation with all this, I'v got no plans to set up shop myself in the very near future, so I'm supportive of other IH efforts for now. Go IH!

 

[Hogni]

Hmmh..something to carry the Mini?

Perhaps something like that?

...or that?

One side for the Mini and one for a DynaStash?

Did I already say that I love leather holsters (never had one)?

 

[Copacetic]

@Copacetic rZToaster is still in the works! Though indeed, the little addition to the fam has required some extra attention, along with a lot of other things keeping me busy.. other kids.. aging parents.. work.. me.. I've had to do some stress management to stay sane, so development has slowed down, but by no means stopped I'm still trying to contribute where I can, on other folks DIY builds, the DV IH alpha team, and I've been talking to @Pipes a little bit too

regarding rZtoaster.. I'm still improving things there. For instance, I had squished all the IH parts together under space constraints, planning to rely on some external heat-sinking (~thermally coupled enclosure) to keep the MOSFETs alive if the unit gets pushed hard. It works with the heatsink, though it was too marginal, as in, MOSFETs would die without the heatsink even under single-user use. I've done some changes to give extra headroom, mainly move the MOSFETs away from the coil a little, and use MUCH better MOSFETs (Rds < 3mOhm even at lower driving voltages(no need for gate voltage boost for 2S? I hope..), better avalanche resilience, etc..)

Here's an interesting/relevant article: https://www.powerelectronictips.com/how-and-when-mosfets-blow-up/

And a side by side of some mockup screenshots older/newer design:

I haven't sent the newer design for PCB fab yet. I've been taking my time. Need to stay sane

Still not sure where all this is going yet.. but it's going I've also been playing with a simpler PCB deign, without built in battery protection / charging / gate drive boost (for 2S battery use) etc, though I hope and plan that you all eventually benefit somehow from my experimentation with all this, I'v got no plans to set up shop myself in the very near future, so I'm supportive of other IH efforts for now. Go IH!

Taking time and staying sane

Totally understand rz.
And your efforts to push this tech and share your efforts are very much appreciated

I hope the little 'un is hale and hearty.

 

[E0x]

Hmmh..something to carry the Mini?

Perhaps something like that?

...or that?

One side for the Mini and one for a DynaStash?

Did I already say that I love leather holsters (never had one)?

a more stylish version here:
https://www.urbantool.com/en/product/fanny-pack/

in another topic , is true what some people say here , that nobody have the skill to build one induction heater from @Pipes so , maybe somebody can record a video and upload it to some where to share , please maybe is too much for ask but if somebody is up to the task watch some other videos of assembly before recording yours so you can have a sense of how make it right for a noob , a lot of time this kind of video is make which I appreciate a lot but very important details are left begin because the person maybe is doing it for people who have some assembly skill and let it in a assumption.

sorry for my bad english , is not my native language and was learn at the internet reading you guys ( i mean forum in general ) !!

 

[frankbhelger]

Yes...370 ma is nothing...even 800 is too little for heavy users like me..only 10 bowls for me...I have been thinking that my next model will have at least a 2200 ma lipo battery… there are also lipo batteries designed for airsoft wich are longer but thinner...Other ones are made with Graphene and seem to be very nice but the prizes go high… Also some batteries weigh more tan others..and thats important cause lipo batts weigh a lot...

I will be perfectly happy with 4-5 full bowls. I am going for ultimate portability on my next build. That is why I am curious of there are any draw backs to moving the inductors to the back or front of the board. Would adding an inch of wire to each leg of each inductors change the electrical characteristics?

I have my portside clone that seems to never run out of juice.

https://i.imgur.com/noFISlZ.jpg

 

[Stu]

@Stu, it says 'the pic can't displayed because it contains errors.' Can you fix?

It's an imgur image, so of course there is an error. That's why I included the link above the pic. Here it is again: https://i.imgur.com/W895Adz.jpg

 

[cybrguy]

That would be @stickstones. https://i.imgur.com/W895Adz.jpg

Et tu, Brute?

 

[frankbhelger]

click like this video is slow or fast, everybody ?

Can you show us the details of your build ?

 

[Gumball1]

Evening folks. Just got a portside mini. It is nice to hit the DynaVap with the fan on now.

However I expected a more even burn compared to using a two flame torch. I am use to getting two heat ups out of one pack.
1 With the lighter I only needed heat to the second click for both hits. It took about 25 seconds to heat each to the click. Product is thoroughly brown and maybe a touch darker on top.
2. Now PSM heats in 1/3 to 1/2 as long at 8-12 seconds. However the hits are crap at the second click. They are crap until I get 5 seconds past the second click. For both heat up's.
Here is the problem the second heat up from the PSM tastes more burnt than with the lighter. But when I empty the load is 1/3 DARK brown at the top, med brown in the middle, and gold at the bottom.
Anyone have any tips for this newbie to tune my fingers, vap, or PSM to burn better?
Sure I could scrape off the top of the bowl and heat for a third time. But this is tiny and makes a mess doing that.
Thanks vapors!

 

[namasteIII]

Hey what can you to get more even heating besides tamping the load a good amount? I do that and still get almost black at the top and often not fully vaporizer underneath. I've got my times down and am really into the quickness of this thing, but I can't seem to get the great ABV that I do with my torches. Any tips, or is this just the best induction heating can offer?

Thanks. Talking about the Portside Mini for clarification.

Edit: and an Omni Xl w/ current standard TI tip

 

[DeeCee5]

I understand @Pipes -- but you're assuming that everyone is capable of building a bare bones system. I never welded anything in my life, no nothing about circuitry (can only install a computer board) nor understand anything more that the very basics about electricity (dangers, knowing storm home grid safety, how to turn a light switch on., how to reset a circuit on the breaker board). And building an IH is too intricate for me. I don't want to struggle through the angst of each step. I'm sure there's many like me. Well, maybe one day the minis will slow up & maybe you'll consider doing a repromote. Never say never.

But fully understand you wanting to enjoy the summer. I can't believe there's only 6 weeks left until Labor Day, & if those of us in the Northeast are blessed, we'll have lovely weather through Thanksgiving.

@Summer, When putting together an IM using Pipes new modular system is the only skill required to be able to press in three connectors. There is no soldering skill needed.

For me, when I built my IM using Pipes modules, the biggest issue was drilling the Wooden enclosure I purchased at Michael's Craft store to house the components.

 

[frankbhelger]

Tamping the load is going to make the uneven heating worse. Also, never fill it to the top. Leave just a bit of airspace. As for the timing, try to heat it for a second or two less than the clicks. Then let it set for 5-10 seconds, then heat to the click. You just want to slow the process down just a bit so the heat can soak in.

 

[Pipes]

Yes, a new ball game coming from using using a torch.
As @frankbhelger says, let it sit for a second before you draw in. Let the heat even out naturally and heat soak the goods.
You'll get the knack.

 

[virtualpurple]

I find that I usually get my best hits if I give a 4 second count past the second click for my first toke, but I need to cut the time for my second hit to either 3.5 or 3 seconds. I usually keep around 3 seconds for every remaining hit after.

I know I adjust my technique when using a steel tip but honestly I can’t recall to what degree.

 

[Hippie]

With an SS tip I go about 5 seconds past the click on the 1st heat and 3 seconds past if I'm reheating a hot tip. With a Ti tip I go about half that.

For an even heat try heating to the 1st click and not hitting it, instead put it on a magnet to cool the clicker or just wait for the click then reheat as above.
Slowing things down with a couple of pauses from heating works too.

 

[namasteIII]

thanks what bowl size are y'all using? I trying to slow as suggested and it works ok. Maybe smaller bowl is bad for induction heater. I use the middle grove.

Cheers, I'll keep at it.


I like first hit to the first click

second hit to the second click

third hit to the second click +2 seconds and an exhale

Done

 

[sk8man121]

Portside Mini received! Very nice build on this thing; bigger and heavier than I expected it to be.

I'm topping off the battery and noticing that the charger itself (not the unit) is hot the point that it could likely fry an egg in 4-5 minutes. I believe this has been discussed, but is it normal/safe?

EDIT: One additional charger-related question. My beloved Jarhead has begun to go in and out in terms of functionality. It seems as if I have to bend the charger upward at the connection with the unit in order to get it to fire; if I release the bend, the red light dies instantly.

Is this a fault of the charger, or is there a wiring issue within the unit? Best fix?

EDIT#2: I just tested the device and noticed a crackle noise due to some leftover moisture from cleaning my M burning up. Interested to know (if someone can explain): Is the heating chamber fully isolated from the electronics? I just want to be sure that there's no risk of electrocuting myself or something causing the battery to catch fire.

Probably very OCD of me but figured it was worth mentioning as I get used to this thing!

 

[Whissmu]

I may have missed it but how many clicks are you getting with the 800mah packs?

me in my first charge of the battery, record 99 clicks -> of bowls full to 80% and leaving 3 seconds approx after the click in alls…
I am sure, that ones batteries in best condition can overcome easy the number of 99 clicks per load​

Hmmh..something to carry the Mini?

One side for the Mini and one for a DynaStash?

maybe something vintage and familiar .....

 

[Pipes]

Portside Mini received! Very nice build on this thing; bigger and heavier than I expected it to be.

I'm topping off the battery and noticing that the charger itself (not the unit) is hot the point that it could likely fry an egg in 4-5 minutes. I believe this has been discussed, but is it normal/safe?

EDIT: One additional charger-related question. My beloved Jarhead has begun to go in and out in terms of functionality. It seems as if I have to bend the charger upward at the connection with the unit in order to get it to fire; if I release the bend, the red light dies instantly.

Is this a fault of the charger, or is there a wiring issue within the unit? Best fix?

EDIT#2: I just tested the device and noticed a crackle noise due to some leftover moisture from cleaning my M burning up. Interested to know (if someone can explain): Is the heating chamber fully isolated from the electronics? I just want to be sure that there's no risk of electrocuting myself or something causing the battery to catch fire.

Probably very OCD of me but figured it was worth mentioning as I get used to this thing!

Yes, the charger gets hot through the charging cycle. This has being reported a few times as well as noticed myself. There have being no reports of temperatures high enough to cause deformities in the chargers casing so I'd say it's considered normal for this charger.

It sounds like the connector has loosened up somehow. There are two quick fixes and depends on what side has loosened up which would determine which fix will work. One fix for the center pin not connecting, is to use a small flat screwdriver to poke into the jar side hole and slightly bend the center pin to make it out of center a bit. However, in your case it's more likely the ground side not tight. To fix this, you need to use pliers to bend the outside of Jar side connector to put out of round slightly. Careful here as can over do it easily. Of course, the best fix would be to just replace the pigtail.

There is a 12v rail at the bottom of the tube used for the FET switch but no worries about electrocution.

 

[zky42]

Actually, I wanted to build a real box of wood with great closures, now I like the spontaneous version for quick use so well that I'll probably leave it that way. Everything fits perfectly. When it's closed, nothing clatters. Everything is tight and stable. Thanks again pipes. I love it.

 

[samlant]

Building my own IH and Ive got some questions.
First: Ive heard that there needs to be a high-rise voltage from the power supply in order for the voltage to oscillate enough to jump-start the Induction module. Is this true and how the heck do we do that?
Second and more importantly: I have a momentary DC switch between the DC transformer/power supply (12v 5A, dunno if its switching, but it looks like one of yours) and the induction heater. Wpuld this be enough for the module to work? I tried without the switch and I think it shorted the board. I ordered a switch thinking that'll ensure a high-rise voltage, or at least make it work without shorting it lol.